New Product - Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0

Chris@Optimum said:
Poliseal isn't very abrasive and it will fix high spots. If you have to recoat polish to a tape line then move the tapeline a quarter inch ontonthe unpolished part, then polish the over lap after it's cured (24 hours). Not difficult at all.
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Great, thanks.

Going to hit the area with Megs 205 to hopefully clean up whats left, then re-coat (after washing the area with PowerClean and then regular car wash)

In the meantime going to order the Optimum 3 pack sampler from AG so I can have small amounts to try out and maybe keep in the car if necessary (is it insane, even for an AG-ian, to have polish in their car ready to go just in case?)
 
It took me a couple weeks to get around to putting this stuff on and I have to say it was a piece of cake. Anyone stressing over how to do it shouldn't.

I washed the car, used some OPC to strip off anything on the paint and went over it several times to make sure it was good and clean. Then I worked my way around the car and coated EVERYTHING.... paint, trim, wheels, glass etc..etc... I put the stuff on every square inch of the car and door jams.

It sheds water like a duck now. I don't have any feedback on longevity but it was easy to apply.
 
I may have missed it but...does this product have the ability to acquire swirls or RIDS as a clear coat would? Or is it hard enough to prevent that?

Also, rock chips...would this be a good alternative to protecting against these? Would be a great option instead of installing a clear bra.
 
DRT BRD said:
I may have missed it but...does this product have the ability to acquire swirls or RIDS as a clear coat would? Or is it hard enough to prevent that?

Also, rock chips...would this be a good alternative to protecting against these? Would be a great option instead of installing a clear bra.
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From what I understand, it can still acquire swirls / RIDS / rock chips.

It's a great product, but it's not magic...
 
An interesting situation - I notice that the rear of my car was quite dirty from sucking up dirt like it always does on wet roads (not nearly as bad since OC). I used opti-clean and what I was surprised to see on one section of the bumper was what looked like water drip/run stains. Tried Opti-clean again but no effect. Used OPC straight - looked beautiful once again.
 
DRT BRD said:
Sorry about that. After 37 pages, I tend to lose track.
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I think post #13 on page one had you covered except for the chips...but it won't protect against chips. I didn't notice you were new, sorry. Welcome to AG.
 
Newb here. good read so far. Thinking of using the OC on my personal vehicles, two DD's, and one is the wifes sports car. Her sports car is really prone to debris impacts to the front bumper/front portion of hood/fenders. I do realize that OC is not chip resistant as a clear bra would be, but I was considering doing just the front portion of her car similar to what you would see with a clear bra. I figure that I would have enough product to do the two DD's with just enough to do this front portion for her car. I realize that most would want to coat the entire panel, but for the sake of doing something a little different, I was considering taping off the front portion of the hood/fenders and only coating the front portion including headlights and bumper. Would you be able to pull a clean tape line? At what time during the drying process do you think would be a good time to pull said tape? I would think it would give you a similar look as clear bra would. My reasoning for not coating her entire car is that I enjoy polishing/waxing her Z and prefer that "just waxed" feel and look as opposed to the OC look/feel. Even though OC will not prevent rock chips, I think it would help some and make washing bugs and such from the front easier. Please don't flame for newbness!
 
Do the bumper to the seams and if you want to, but a tape line would look bad. You're right, it will make bug cleaning easier. I have coated a few front bumpers only jobs.
 
Yeah I think he's going for the same look that the clear bras do on the Z which is a line across the hood around the level of the top of the headlights. You might be able to get a clean line if you use the same tape I did a few weeks back, the 3M "edgeless" blue tape. The adhesive on it was a complete PITA though and I'll never use it again hehe.
 
What would happen if opti-coat was applied to a matte finish? OR, to old paint that has very little clear-coat left?
 
I don't think OC would add shine to a matte finish

When I put OC on my aunt's matte plastic trim a little while ago it looked wet at first but once dry the plastic looked matte again
 
What happens if body/paint work is needed? Would you have to give special instructions to the body shop regarding it so they don't try to paint over it?
 
Chris@Optimum said:
Poliseal isn't very abrasive and it will fix high spots. If you have to recoat polish to a tape line then move the tapeline a quarter inch ontonthe unpolished part, then polish the over lap after it's cured (24 hours). Not difficult at all.
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I may have mentioned this before or maybe just a PM to Chris. I use 2 pieces of tape. One wide piece first then a narrower piece to overlap on to the paint by 1/4" or LESS. Polish up to the tape then remove thin piece (remove any adhesive)and apply OC. This gives you a nice thin line of overlap. Maybe this is too anal. Of course you can do as Chris said and just move the tape.
 
bigez said:
What happens if body/paint work is needed? Would you have to give special instructions to the body shop regarding it so they don't try to paint over it?
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I was wondering the same thing.
 
bigez said:
What happens if body/paint work is needed? Would you have to give special instructions to the body shop regarding it so they don't try to paint over it?
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dougaross said:
I was wondering the same thing.
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They're going to prep it until it's ready, anyway. Most likely they will scuff it, but if they don't they are going to prep it and make sure it's clean and find they can't and scuff it. If you're using a body shop that you don't trust to do good prep, it really doesn't matter what LSP/coating you have on, does it?
 
Way back in the 80's, I used Liquid Glass extensively on a car of mine. It got vandalized and needed new paint. The shop, which was supposed to be the best in the city, "prepped" it and shot the paint. Well, it all simply dripped off and they ended up with a huge mess. I told them beforehand what I had done and they assured me they knew how to deal with it - "Yeah,yeah, we pros know what we are doing.". Needless to say, they had a few questions about what I had used after this little incident. Apparently the liquid glass did build up significantly. I suspect OC 2.0 would have the same result.
 
Your body shop is going to sand right through it. If they don't or can't you've got bigger issues and should be looking for another shop.
 
My wife just got a new car tonight and I'm thinking of trying OptiCoat on it. Since it's a brand new car, what do you recommend for the prep? Mainly I was wondering if I should still polish even though it's a new car? I was thinking after washing that I should still do a quick polish using my menzerna po85rd followed by an IPA wipedown but wasn't sure if that would be overkill. I guess it's just a matter of whether or not I'm ok with whatever imperfections are there from the dealer lot but was curious what other people have done.
 
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