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AlexC

AlexC

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My first dive into detailing was last summer. My friend and I bought ourselves some clay kits, paste wax (I got Turtle Super Hard Shell hahaha), some washing supplies, and a few Meguiars products and went at it. We thought we might as well have been top notch professionals. Then I discovered AutoGeek, and although it burst my little bubble, its the greatest collection of information and people that I've ever come across on the internet.

Ive been reading up quite a bit lately and I'm glad to finally be a member on the forums here. I've got a goal and a plan I'd like to share with you all and maybe get some feedback.

Someday, I'd like to be detailing part time, but right now I'm gonna start on my car. I own a 1999 Chrysler Intrepid and i believe in making the most of anything, so im gonna make it as beautiful as i can. There's light oxidation on the horizontal panels of the car and swirls littering the rest.

Here's a list of things I think I need to achieve and maintain a swirl free, glossy finish. Lemme know what you think:

Wash
-2x 5 Gallon Buckets
-2x Grit Guards
-AutoGeek Half Gallon Foamaster Gun
-DP Xtreme Foam (for gun)
-Mothers Contoured tire Brush
-Mothers Wheel Brush
-Daytona Speed Master
-Meg's Gold Class Car Wash
-CG Diablo Wheel Gel
-Griot's Rubber Cleaner
-Stoners Invisible Glass
-Optimum No Rinse (for clay lube as well)
-Cobra Guzzler 20x40
-Cobra Glass Towel
-Meg's Smooth Surface Kit (from last year, do i need new clay?)
-1Z Einszett Cockpit Premium

Correction/Protection
-PC 7424XP
-5" Backing Plate
-6.5" CCS Pads (Orange, White, n Blue?)
-Wolfgang Swirl Remover Combo
-Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0
-Meg's Masking Tape Combo
-Ultmia Tire & Trim Guard Plus
-Pinnacle Black Onyx Tire Gel

One last thing, gotta thank AutoGeek directly for the free shipping over 95$. Thats gonna help a ton, really appreciate it.
 
If you are going to use the pcxp stick with 5.5" pads you will get much better results. If you are not sold on the pc, you may want to check out the GG polisher it has quite a following around here.

Personally I would skip the foam gun.

Make sure you get your free sample and forum discount. :)
 
AlexC said:
My first dive into detailing was last summer. My friend and I bought ourselves some clay kits, paste wax (I got Turtle Super Hard Shell hahaha), some washing supplies, and a few Meguiars products and went at it. We thought we might as well have been top notch professionals. Then I discovered AutoGeek, and although it burst my little bubble, its the greatest collection of information and people that I've ever come across on the internet.

Ive been reading up quite a bit lately and I'm glad to finally be a member on the forums here. I've got a goal and a plan I'd like to share with you all and maybe get some feedback.

Someday, I'd like to be detailing part time, but right now I'm gonna start on my car. I own a 1999 Chrysler Intrepid and i believe in making the most of anything, so im gonna make it as beautiful as i can. There's light oxidation on the horizontal panels of the car and swirls littering the rest.

Here's a list of things I think I need to achieve and maintain a swirl free, glossy finish. Lemme know what you think:

Wash
-2x 5 Gallon Buckets
-2x Grit Guards
-AutoGeek Half Gallon Foamaster Gun
-DP Xtreme Foam (for gun)
-Mothers Contoured tire Brush
-Mothers Wheel Brush
-Daytona Speed Master
-Meg's Gold Class Car Wash
-CG Diablo Wheel Gel
-Griot's Rubber Cleaner
-Stoners Invisible Glass
-Optimum No Rinse (for clay lube as well)
-Cobra Guzzler 20x40
-Cobra Glass Towel
-Meg's Smooth Surface Kit (from last year, do i need new clay?)
-1Z Einszett Cockpit Premium

Correction/Protection
-PC 7424XP
-5" Backing Plate
-6.5" CCS Pads (Orange, White, n Blue?)
-Wolfgang Swirl Remover Combo
-Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0
-Meg's Masking Tape Combo
-Ultmia Tire & Trim Guard Plus
-Pinnacle Black Onyx Tire Gel

One last thing, gotta thank AutoGeek directly for the free shipping over 95$. Thats gonna help a ton, really appreciate it.
Click to expand...

Your going to either need a larger BP or smaller pads

I would go with Orange and Black. Forget the Blue and White ones

I would also upgrade that PC to a Griots. with two ppl using this machine, that lifetime warranty will come in handy

Skip the rubber cleaner also. Instead get Meguiars APC

Good luck, and Welcome from Memphis


Flash aka Philbert K Wormley III
 
alexc said:
my first dive into detailing was last summer. My friend and i bought ourselves some clay kits, paste wax (i got turtle super hard shell hahaha), some washing supplies, and a few meguiars products and went at it. We thought we might as well have been top notch professionals. Then i discovered autogeek, and although it burst my little bubble, its the greatest collection of information and people that i've ever come across on the internet.

Ive been reading up quite a bit lately and i'm glad to finally be a member on the forums here. I've got a goal and a plan i'd like to share with you all and maybe get some feedback.

Someday, i'd like to be detailing part time, but right now i'm gonna start on my car. I own a 1999 chrysler intrepid and i believe in making the most of anything, so im gonna make it as beautiful as i can. There's light oxidation on the horizontal panels of the car and swirls littering the rest.

Here's a list of things i think i need to achieve and maintain a swirl free, glossy finish. Lemme know what you think:

wash
-2x 5 gallon buckets
-2x grit guards
-autogeek half gallon foamaster gun
-dp xtreme foam (for gun)
-mothers contoured tire brush
-mothers wheel brush
-daytona speed master
-meg's gold class car wash
-cg diablo wheel gel
-griot's rubber cleaner
-stoners invisible glass
-optimum no rinse (for clay lube as well)
-cobra guzzler 20x40
-cobra glass towel
-meg's smooth surface kit (from last year, do i need new clay?)
-1z einszett cockpit premium

correction/protection
-Griot's Garage DA
-5" backing plate
-5.5" FLAT pads (orange, white, n black?)
-wolfgang swirl remover combo
-wolfgang deep gloss paint sealant 3.0
-meg's masking tape combo
-ultmia tire & trim guard plus
-pinnacle black onyx tire gel

one last thing, gotta thank autogeek directly for the free shipping over 95$. Thats gonna help a ton, really appreciate it.
Click to expand...
Fixed! ;)
 
welcome to AG! i agree with the GG DA instead of pc. you could try the new mf system from megs. if not stick with lc (lake country) flat pads. orange, white, and grey are the major pads. Blue for applying wax and sealants but that could be achieved by hand. The foam gun, you could skip but sometimes when people see you using it, it will make you stand out from the rest of the crowd. other than that your fine with just 2x bucket wash. UTTG is a awesome choice! sealant choice is awesome. You may want to go with m105 and m205 as your compound/polish. ONR (optimum no rinse) is also VERY good and i consider it a must have in my arsenal. daytona speed brush is also good. you should consider some wax collinite #845 is VERY durable and actually looks good if you want more of the "wet" look, you could go with natty boy blue for cheaper or pinnacle souveran/wg fuzion. all up to you
 
jamores23 said:
welcome to AG! i agree with the GG DA instead of pc. you could try the new mf system from megs. if not stick with lc (lake country) flat pads. orange, white, and grey are the major pads. Blue for applying wax and sealants but that could be achieved by hand. The foam gun, you could skip but sometimes when people see you using it, it will make you stand out from the rest of the crowd. other than that your fine with just 2x bucket wash. UTTG is a awesome choice! sealant choice is awesome. You may want to go with m105 and m205 as your compound/polish. ONR (optimum no rinse) is also VERY good and i consider it a must have in my arsenal. daytona speed brush is also good. you should consider some wax collinite #845 is VERY durable and actually looks good if you want more of the "wet" look, you could go with natty boy blue for cheaper or pinnacle souveran/wg fuzion. all up to you
Click to expand...
Good advice! :props:
 
:welcome: Aboard AlexC !!! Listen to these fellas they are giving you great advice!
 
LegacyGT said:
If you are going to use the pcxp stick with 5.5" pads you will get much better results. If you are not sold on the pc, you may want to check out the GG polisher it has quite a following around here.

Personally I would skip the foam gun.

Make sure you get your free sample and forum discount. :)
Click to expand...

Ok so how exactly do the sample and discounts work?

Flash Gordon said:
Your going to either need a larger BP or smaller pads

I would go with Orange and Black. Forget the Blue and White ones

I would also upgrade that PC to a Griots. with two ppl using this machine, that lifetime warranty will come in handy

Skip the rubber cleaner also. Instead get Meguiars APC

Good luck, and Welcome from Memphis


Flash aka Philbert K Wormley III
Click to expand...

Alright, for an APC i was thinking Meg's, would i want an APC+?

07 z-oh-6 said:
Fixed! ;)
Click to expand...

Whats the difference between flat pads and CCS? I know the CCS has little divots, what are they for?

jamores23 said:
welcome to AG! i agree with the GG DA instead of pc. you could try the new mf system from megs. if not stick with lc (lake country) flat pads. orange, white, and grey are the major pads. Blue for applying wax and sealants but that could be achieved by hand. The foam gun, you could skip but sometimes when people see you using it, it will make you stand out from the rest of the crowd. other than that your fine with just 2x bucket wash. UTTG is a awesome choice! sealant choice is awesome. You may want to go with m105 and m205 as your compound/polish. ONR (optimum no rinse) is also VERY good and i consider it a must have in my arsenal. daytona speed brush is also good. you should consider some wax collinite #845 is VERY durable and actually looks good if you want more of the "wet" look, you could go with natty boy blue for cheaper or pinnacle souveran/wg fuzion. all up to you
Click to expand...

I'll look into that wax, thanks. So whats the grey pad for? I've heard plenty about m105/205 and the rest of Meg's SMAT system, but do you think 105 could be too abrasive. I always hear Mike saying "use the least aggressive product to get the job done"


Well I think im sold on the GG DA haha. Loving the input so far! Thank you, you guys rock!! :D
 
AlexC said:
Ok so how exactly do the sample and discounts work?

Use coupon code "autopia" at checkout for an additional 10% off.

Free sample here:
Free Sample with your Order


Alright, for an APC i was thinking Meg's, would i want an APC+?

Yes, APC+ or Optimum Power Clean


Whats the difference between flat pads and CCS? I know the CCS has little divots, what are they for?
The CCS pockets act like small reservoirs for excess polish or wax. When more product is needed on the pads work surface, it is drawn up a center column of open-cell foam within each pocket and distributed back onto the work surface. CCS Technology prevents polishing foam pads from drying out and reduces product waste. Sounds great, huh, but you don't need that. You want full surface contact, and flat pads achieve that.


I'll look into that wax, thanks. So whats the grey pad for? I've heard plenty about m105/205 and the rest of Meg's SMAT system, but do you think 105 could be too abrasive. I always hear Mike saying "use the least aggressive product to get the job done"

If you want to work with DAT polishes, go with the Wolfgang Twins. I personally like using SMAT products better.
Click to expand...
:)
 
AlexC said:
Hmm, embarrassing, but whats DAT and SMAT?
Click to expand...
Not embarrassing.

DAT= Diminishing abrasive technology. That means the abrasives start of large at the beginning of the buffing cycle. As you keep buffing, the abrasives become smaller and smaller. You must fully break down the abrasives, or you may be left with polish induced swirls in the paint.

SMAT = Super Micro Abrasive Technology. The abrasives start off small at the beginning and stay the same size throughout the whole buffing cycle. So, you don't have to guess when the abrasives have broken down, the stay the same size the whole time.
 
So, GG DA. Orange flat pad with M105. Grey flat pad with M205. Blue flat pad with Collinite #845 (read the reviews on this stuff, sounds amazing. Had 39 5-star reviews!!!!)
 
and the gray pad is for final polishing step some people will finish with just white. remember a extra pad equals a extra step which equals a angry wife haha! alex, z-oh-6 recommended the flat pads to me i have aLOT of ccs pads all colors and i just used the flat pads the other day and i like them alot better via GG DA. Yes The 105 is a strong compound and yes you want to start the least aggressive possible, BUT if your least aggressive approach isnt working out you will have to step up to a more aggressive pad and if that doesnt work out a more aggressive compound/polish. in this world you can never have enough.
 
Oh and 6.5" pads with the 6" GG DA, right?
 
AlexC said:
Oh and 6.5" pads with the 6" GG DA, right?
Click to expand...
I'd pick up some white pads along with grey. If you have hard paint, you'll want to finish with white and M205. If you have soft paint, you'll want to finish with grey and M205. It's good to have options with different pads.

Although, the Griots can spin 6.5" pads, I'd still definitely go with a 5" backing plate and 5.5" pads. You want to be as efficient as possible.
 
AlexC said:
Oh and 6.5" pads with the 6" GG DA, right?
Click to expand...


I would recomend the 5.5 pads with the DA....just get a 5" backing plate to go with it. 1" dosen't sound like much but it does make a big differance on the control and cutting ability. Hope this makes some sense if not just ask we are here to help. Mark (07 z-0h-6) has given some very sound advice.
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
Not embarrassing.

DAT= Diminishing abrasive technology. That means the abrasives start of large at the beginning of the buffing cycle. As you keep buffing, the abrasives become smaller and smaller. You must fully break down the abrasives, or you may be left with polish induced swirls in the paint.

SMAT = Super Micro Abrasive Technology. The abrasives start off small at the beginning and stay the same size throughout the whole buffing cycle. So, you don't have to guess when the abrasives have broken down, the stay the same size the whole time.
Click to expand...

Here's a couple of articles on the SMAT products...


The SMAT Pack - Everything you ever wanted to know about Meguiar's SMAT products...

The Aggressiveness Order of SMAT Products - This might surprise you!



:)
 
dad07 said:
I would recomend the 5.5 pads with the DA....just get a 5" backing plate to go with it. 1" dosen't sound like much but it does make a big differance on the control and cutting ability. Hope this makes some sense if not just ask we are here to help. Mark (07 z-0h-6) has given some very sound advice.
Click to expand...

Thin is in...

How to maximize the ability of the 1st Generation Porter Cable Dual Action Polishers

And keep in mind, buffing out a car with any type of machine is just a matter of slicing up each panel into smaller sections. Then buff out one section at at time and when you move onto a new section be sure to overlap a little into the previous section.

The above article talks about this...


This article is actually the most in-depth and thorough article on everything you need to know about using a PC style DA Polisher, it's a long read but chalked full of tips and techniques...

The Definitive How-To Article for Removing Swirls, Scratches and Water Spots Using a Porter Cable 7424XP, G110v2 or Griot's Garage Polisher - Includes Videos


Here's how to do a "Section Pass" when trying to remove swirls, scratches and other below surface paint defects.

How to do a Section Pass​
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q70g83mnTn4]YouTube - How to do a "Section Pass" with a Porter Cable 7424XP[/video]


:)
 
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