Not too impressed with 105

I only use it for spot buffs that need a kick. Then I go for my menzerna polishes to finish out.
 
I only use it for spot buffs that need a kick. Then I go for my menzerna polishes to finish out.

Menzerna I've heard a lot of good things about. Stuff is pricey...but I could care less about that if it works really well. I really wanna try 85rd.
 
Menzerna I've heard a lot of good things about. Stuff is pricey...but I could care less about that if it works really well. I really wanna try 85rd.

Hey Kris, you wanna trade samples? I'll send ya 85rd if you'll send me your "go to" malco compound
 
Hey Kris, you wanna trade samples? I'll send ya 85rd if you'll send me your "go to" malco compound

How much 85rd do you have? Cause all my compounds are in gallon bottles. I've also got a few Malco compounds I like. What kind of cut you looking for?
 
I am not a huge 105 fan. My bottle is hardly touched. I am personally a Mothers fan. I prefer it over the 105.
 
I was just talking like a 4oz sample. I bought a number of smaller bottles from us plastics. I sent Corey a sample of bfwd in a small tequila bottle... Basically I'm saying if you don't have a small bottle just use something like a shot sized tequila bottle.
 
I was just talking like a 4oz sample. I bought a number of smaller bottles from us plastics. I sent Corey a sample of bfwd in a small tequila bottle... Basically I'm saying if you don't have a small bottle just use something like a shot sized tequila bottle.

I've got a few small bottles laying around. I can rinse one out and fill it up. What kind of compound would you want? My Malco favorites are Tru-Grit (a bit of a learning curve to it IMO), Rapid Cut, and Mag-1. Tru-Grit is their deep cut compound. Rapid and Mag are a lighter compound/clear coat restorer...similar to 205, but probably a bit more cut.

For a deep cut compound...my favorite is actually Auto Magic XP Compound. I think it has better spread...but not quite as much cut as Tru-Grit, but it's really close. It's actually the only product I buy from Auto Magic. Everything else is Malco, and some AG of course, ha.

Here's a link to Malcos compounds. The newer version of Tru-Grit is now actually called a cutting creme. I've tried it...and it works a lot better. But I've got their previous Tru-Grit. It's tougher to spread than the new creme style. I've also got the UFC Compound. It's meant for use with foam pads...it actually works really well even with wool. I like that one too. I'm not helping any am I? haha

MPI - Compounds
 
I am a newbie and so confused with you guys. I have tried to follow what is a good DA, polish, pads etc and I feel exhausted from the research. So stupid me, I got the 105/205 and PC with LC pads. Oh I did not know 5.5 pads were better than 6.5. Oh well. Took my first attempt at this stuff. No experience at all. Yeah I was confused. Yeah I was guessing but... tried this stuff on my avalanche and all swirls and scratches disappeared on my tailgate. Wow.

So based on 07Zo6 recs I got some pinnacle to try on my silver 2010 Z. To scared to work on that as of yet since I only done this once. Tail was the only part of my truck I worked on. The other swirls seem harder to do and it will take sometime.


105/205 NO WAX! REFLECTION SHOT.
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105/205 NO WAX! MIRROR SHOT.

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I've never used any of them so suprise me lol. Just let me know the cut and name of it so I know what to use it for. Pm me your address and I'll send the 85rd out Monday.
 
I am a newbie and so confused with you guys. I have tried to follow what is a good DA, polish, pads etc and I feel exhausted from the research. So stupid me, I got the 105/205 and PC with LC pads. Oh I did not know 5.5 pads were better than 6.5. Oh well. Took my first attempt at this stuff. No experience at all. Yeah I was confused. Yeah I was guessing but... tried this stuff on my avalanche and all swirls and scratches disappeared on my tailgate. Wow.

So based on 07Zo6 recs I got some pinnacle to try on my silver 2010 Z. To scared to work on that as of yet since I only done this once. Tail was the only part of my truck I worked on. The other swirls seem harder to do and it will take sometime.


You don't sound very confused to me, ha. Tailgate looks good. 5.5 are just better because the PC will spin a lot more easily than with the 6.5.

Don't take what I say too much to heart. 105 is a good product. But, I'm just partial to some other products...that's all. Doesn't mean you have to up and purchase something different. If 105 works for you...then great. It works for lots of people. I'm just mentally challenged, hahahaha
 
M105 has a bit of a learning curve.

Ultimate Compound is much easier to work with. :xyxthumbs: Doesn't have quite the cut of M105, but still very good!

I agree it has a learning curve...At first I hated the stuff...After I figured it out I love it...Most of the time my go to stuff..Less dust than other products.... I usually spray a lite mist of DI water on my pad, give it a little more working time....
 
You don't sound very confused to me, ha. Tailgate looks good. 5.5 are just better because the PC will spin a lot more easily than with the 6.5.

Don't take what I say too much to heart. 105 is a good product. But, I'm just partial to some other products...that's all. Doesn't mean you have to up and purchase something different. If 105 works for you...then great. It works for lots of people. I'm just mentally challenged, hahahaha


What bothered me was the dust and it dried out fast. I am trying to understand this stuff since it seems to dry out fast.

I am using my black truck as the test platform before I move to the vette. However, the vette will need very little work just should need LSP and wax.
 
You don't sound very confused to me, ha. Tailgate looks good. 5.5 are just better because the PC will spin a lot more easily than with the 6.5.

Don't take what I say too much to heart. 105 is a good product. But, I'm just partial to some other products...that's all. Doesn't mean you have to up and purchase something different. If 105 works for you...then great. It works for lots of people. I'm just mentally challenged, hahahaha

What bothered me was the dust and it dried out fast. I am trying to understand this stuff since it seems to dry out fast.

I am using my black truck as the test platform before I move to the vette. However, the vette will need very little work just should need LSP and wax.

Oh and the only other thing I used was the clay bar. What a difference. Felt so smooth. Goodness. Had no idea what that stuff could do. I used clay on my 335 hood and the main reason I spent the doh on doing the correction myself to remove a scratch by a local car washer. Boy am I learning alot but I am spending some cash on supplies. Sad thing is I enjoy this and my wife has not complained not one bit with all the time I am spending in the garage cleaning her 335.
 
When I first got 105 I hated it, dusted, flashed super quick and was tough to remove. I am now almost done with my second gallon and going to order another, after I learned how to use it, I fell in love with my beloved m105.
 
When I first got 105 I hated it, dusted, flashed super quick and was tough to remove. I am now almost done with my second gallon and going to order another, after I learned how to use it, I fell in love with my beloved m105.


CONCUR:

105/205 NO WAX.:xyxthumbs::xyxthumbs:

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What can you do to extend the work time with M105? I've heard some sorta mixed suggestions, but does anyone have a for sure way to extend the work time?
 
CONCUR:

105/205 NO WAX.:xyxthumbs::xyxthumbs:

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Nice Swosanity,
Can't wait to see the rest of that truck once you're done with it!! Don't forget to protect that finish with a good wax!! :dblthumb2:
 
My leaning curve with 105/Flex3401, was first to clean the pad after every panel and spritz with Poorboys wash n wipe... It works for ~IME~
 
I wrote this to try to help another forum member with 105. I really don't use wool pads much so this is based on foam pads.

Originally Posted by tuscarora dave
Ok for the 105, let's see if I you can follow my illustration of how I do things... Since you mention RPM I assume that you are using a rotary. When I use 105 / rotary with moderate to severe paint defects I work in or around a 24 inch squared section, if it is real hard paint I will be using an orange or light cutting pad. If the paint is on the softer side I use a white or polishing pad. I prefer 6 inch pads so I am basing my RPM suggestion on a 6 inch pad.

First I take and apply some polish to the pad and using the edge of my index finger I will sort of push the polish across the pad (sort of like how a snow plow pushes snow) I am trying to create a very thin layer of polish that is not on the pad but in the pad just under the surface. "Very thin" in fact so thin that it appears to be dry. I repeat this process until the entire pad surface is primed 100% with this very thin layer of product. The purpose of this is to have product on the entire pad so it will act as a barrier so the additional product that I use will remain between the pad and paint when being worked on the paint instead of just soaking right into the pad. (kind of like having a juicy hamburger and spreading mayo on the bun so that the burger juice doesn't soak through the bun).

I will actually go ahead and run 1 section pass at 1100-1200RPM before adding anymore product. after running one section pass with the primed pad, I will stop the machine and apply 4 dots of 105 to the pad and run maybe 3 section passes. by the time the 3rd section pass is complete the product is starting to dry up and dust. Stop when you see this happening, sit the machine down.

Have a spray bottle full of water only (tap water works fine) with a trigger sprayer that atomizes the water into a very fine mist and mist the section with a very fine mist of water.(not the pad but the section you are working on) run 3 more section passes and you will notice that the pad will seem to have a little more bite on the second 3 section passes. What you want to see after your second set of 3 section passes is a thin hard dried up crusting of spent polish on the pad. wipe your section clean with Isopropyl alcohol 50/50 with water and check your work. It should be corrected unless you have very deep scratches.

After you finish the first section take a stiff bristled pad cleaning brush (I use a denture brush from walmart, it works well for this and is cheap) and brush the pad until all the hard crusty product is off of the pad. If you try just adding more product and not brushing the pad clean first, you will not get correction on you next passes.

Get a dust mask because you can not avoid the dusting. Practice this process for a while before giving up on it. Once you get the hang of it you will literally cut hours off of your detailing times. Keep it at 1100-1200 RPM with both 105 and 205.

Any questions? I got all night to sit here and type this stuff.
 
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