Now available - Dr. Beasley's Z1 Ceramic AIO Primer

Craig Encinitas said:
For horizontal panels, one could put drops of Z1 onto the surface of the vehicle. Or is that a bad practice?

I too, had some product drop to the ground.
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Nothing wrong with that.


Here's the Finger Painting Technique

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You can use this for horizontal panels, vertical panels and like you see in the picture, tight areas or thin panels.

The BIG PICTURE is to spread the product and thus the abrasive technology plus the lubrication (whatever it is), onto the area you want to buff.


When I was doing the vertical panels on the truck sometimes I put product on the face of the pad and then QUICKLY placed the pad against the panel and sometimes I placed the product on the face of the pad and then used my my 4 fingers to scoop it up and then press it against a section of paint and then spread it around. After I was happy with how I had the product spread around if there was any leftover product, for example on the sides of my fingers, then I would scrape it onto the pad.

The start buffing.

Down and dirty detailing


:D
 
NSP Z1 is 20% off currently.
The other Trio primers are on sale.
I picked some up as I’ve decided this will be my go-to AIO and a real time saver.
 
NSP Z1 has a now on back order as of early this morning, just a heads up.
 
I have 1 for trade. looking for a low mileage CTSV wagon with a stick. No low ball offers..... I know what I got:D
 
My friend’s wagon.

It has a light-ceramic coating on it.

I tried out some scratch repair with Z1 on an LC orange light cutting pad. Stepping it up would’ve worked better. But it’s what I had.

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This is what the car looked back in May prior to my elbow grease:

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Craig Encinitas said:
My friend’s wagon.

It has a light-ceramic coating on it.

I tried out some scratch repair with Z1 on an LC orange light cutting pad. Stepping it up would’ve worked better. But it’s what I had.

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Click to expand...


Looks good to me.

For those "thinking" things through, what Craig just demonstrated was how to repair a coated car the quick, fast simple way.

Use a Ceramic AIO.

  1. Damage fixed.
  2. Paint left coated.
  3. No multiple steps - One and done



:xyxthumbs:
 
Well...the weather finally cleared in SE VA and I got to sit down with Dr. B’s Z7 and my Tesla Model 3 Midnight Silver Metallic! I used my Griot’s G15 long throw and my G8. I chased the Z1 with some PBL Surface Coating. All in all it was a pretty good day. As Mike would say it was a “tick” hard to wipe off but not as bad as I thought is was going to be. Here are 2 pics...the rest will be in Show and Shine later.

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Mike Phillips said:
Looks good to me.
Use a Ceramic AIO.

  1. Damage fixed.
  2. Paint left coated.
  3. No multiple steps - One and done
:xyxthumbs:
Click to expand...

Thanks, Mike.
For future reference:

I will say that using Z1 for spot correction on a ceramic coated surface, that wipe off is no problem. I used it on a few areas with no hard buffing necessary.
 
TMQ said:
Buffing issues...
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Tom I’m basically tagging you in this post. I am using the NSP line before I coat it this morning with Nano Resin.

The buff- is a bear! The surface is not slick at all after I buff it off. I know Toyota paint can be soft, and it’s a fine line between getting the polish off and scratching the paint with a microfiber.

Just sharing my thoughts here. I have no idea why it’s not slick. All the other primer polishes I’ve used from other companies have always felt very slick afterwards. And I tested these out on a couple other vehicles before using them. Maybe it’s just the Toyota paint? It is definitely glossier.
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I am using the FLEX XCE & FCE with light polish pad and also the LC red finess to finish it up. No matter what combo I use, even going heavy in product...or going light on it...doing a couple quick light passes...damp MF before a dry one...same deal...difficult to wipe off.
 
Thanks....

I thought I was the issue. You just confirmed that I'm ok! Grin...

When I did the Shelby just like yours---Had a hard time getting it off. It has never had anything on paint since leaving the factory.
It was like paint was thirsty and was clinging onto the product. And I was more tired using this AIO than I ever been.

Just did that big F150 pickup couple weeks ago---
It has the Opti-pro +. A seven year coating. When I did the work, it was already 4 years old. Still has 3 more years left. Was very contaminated! Felt like 80 grit on the surface.

Did a buzz cut with the Z1. Wasn't too bad wiping off. The Opti pro base made it easy to pull off. BUT even then with solid ceramic base, some spots needed couple more passes to remove wet haze from product. Under the lights paint was perfect!

I was good!

Customer came to pick up the truck, he was very happy how it turned out.

As customer pulled out into the twilight light----High spots!!! All over the upper part of rear bed and rear cabin corners!

Muttered some inappropriate words to post here!

Took a towel to rub down the hight spots---nope. Broke out the pixie and redone those areas. Was able get 90% off.

Geez, And this customer is really picky about how surfaces look! Few more words here...!

Thankfully I told the customer up front that I was trying some really new stuff and we may run into some issues. He was good with that!

So in your case re the Tundra, if surface is not smooth or if it doesn't have anything previous protection on it or if it feels or looks dry, it's going to stick!

Thanks for letting me know, Craig.

Tom
 
Hope Jim gets a chance to read this!

This IS a game changer and once it becomes easy to wipe off---It WILL be the game changer!

Tom
 
Re-read your post.

What NSP polish you used? #45?

And It's not the Toyota paint. Bet if you used your TAC primers, you probably would have had a different result.

When I run into something like what you just went through, I tend to stop and pull out my trusty Rupes polish to see what happens. And compare results between the 2 polishes.

Tom
 
^
This is a 2018 Tundra, with around 20,000 miles. The owner purchased it used and I got as much history on it as I could. I finished the polish process with 45, but there were some deeper scratches so I used the higher cut ones prior.

The Nano Resin is going on nicely now, and it feels slicker. Thanks for your help Tom


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I used Z1 for the first time Friday and found it very easy to wipe off. I followed the Doctors directions and has a very nice wipe off. I ran out of time so I only did the front half of a little Chevy Bolt but I was impressed with the product.


Sent from my iPhone using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
^

I did everything but switch to a different brand of polish to try and get an easier wipe off. There’s a few cars around here I can practice on and see what’s going on.


Thanks.
 
I used Z1 this past week and used less product each time after my first loading of the pad. I found it easy to remove with a short nap MF towel.

I did most of the car with NSP 45 but then on the roof wanted to try the Z1 for being a one step. I was expecting to run out of my ceramic coating product.

I will state that you will not get a perfect wipe-off in comparison to other polishing products. You will find it a bit grabby if too heavily applied and then even some light passes can result the same on the NSP. These products (IMHO) are intended to NOT wipe off cleanly like my Griot's products nor Sonax polishes. They are designed to leave behind a bonding agent as in the NSP line or in the Z1 leave behind a ceramic sealant. And if you want to apply then any brand of coatings this layer will improve the bonding of the top layer to the clear coat below. So far it has lived up to those expectations.

Hope you the same as you work and learn the product.

My final photo showing roof after applying a NonAG product
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And it's these inconsistencies in the wipe off that is keeping me from pulling the trigger on it. I'd like nothing better than a one-step that would give a year of protection, but not gonna buy it until they get the bugs out.
 
For those who have used NSP Z1, how many pads would you need to use to do a midsize suv? Haven’t used this yet and was wondering if I need more pads. I currently have 6 new LC white force hybrid and, 6 new orange pads. Also, can this be used in temperatures as low as 50 degrees. Any input is appreciated.
 
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