One polisher to rule them all

Not trying to be rude, but these posts about people who haven't ever used a polisher, yet spring for a Rupes, are in for a rude awakening. Yes, the Mark II has less stalling issues, but will still stall on MANY areas of a car, especially if you don't have experience. The best place to start for a newbie is a GG 6" 8mm DA.

what posts? i read the whole thread and only read one post about inexperienced people using a polisher and it was right before yours
 
What I did:
I put a rotary scrub brush on porter cable
I made gg6 wax only/or 3 inch
Flex 3401 to polish
 
I did a Ferrari not long ago, particularly the rear fender with a very awkward angle where I was getting orbit only without rotation on my 15 ES. Lo and Behold with orbital action only it corrected swirls amazingly well! I can only imagine howmuch more efficient my soon to arrive MKII would have behaved on the same panel. I have yet to see where the Rupes fell short on a curve or concave and where the Flex outcut it. We too obsessed on rotation only forgetting the massive throw is cutting as well.

I think you and I are the very few that believe you can level away paint without rotation and just oscillation and massage technique
Do it allot with my G21
Never personally tried it with my 12mm or 8mm though

As for original poster
GG6 and make your PC a 3in
Or if your set on selling the PC
Then GG6 as 3in and get a long throw
 
I think you and I are the very few that believe you can level away paint without rotation and just oscillation and massage technique
Do it allot with my G21
Never personally tried it with my 12mm or 8mm though

As for original poster
GG6 and make your PC a 3in
Or if your set on selling the PC
Then GG6 as 3in and get a long throw

Todd Helme has a good article explaining why orbit alone can correct will post it when I find it or come across it again. A friend of mine still stuck in the old school way of thinking forced rotation cuts better was pleasantly surprised when I pulled out my 3401 and MKII on hard paint on curves. The 3401 naturally kept rotating and so did the MKII so we had to purposely stall the MKII to test the cutting ability on orbit only. The MKII orbiting only destroyed the 3401 on curves as far as leveling paint and speed of correction. We then went to a flat panel and had to put the 3401 away as it was embarrassing at howmuch more powerful the new technology MKII's are. Needless to say he is now buying a long throw and not believing the bull he reads on the net.
 
I have a pc and it's going to 3 inch duty in the future. I am looking to move to a Rupes or a flex but, have a milwaukee rotary as well. I was wondering which machine would be better since I have the rotary. I am leaning towards the rupes at the moment.
 
I think you and I are the very few that believe you can level away paint without rotation and just oscillation and massage technique
Do it allot with my G21
Never personally tried it with my 12mm or 8mm though

As for original poster
GG6 and make your PC a 3in
Or if your set on selling the PC
Then GG6 as 3in and get a long throw

When you remove swirls by hand, the applicator is not rotating, but the swirls can still be removed. Transfer this motion to a machine, which can move faster than our hand ever could, it just makes sense. Expecially considering the orbit sizes, and the stiffness of the pads, there stands a real chance to affect the paint with orbit alone. The shorter the orbit, the more rotation is needed to get the job done.

Rupes engineered their tools to increase rotation as orbit decreased. I assume it's because orbit plays an important part in removing paint.

With 8mm tools, and the softer pads I like, rotation is necessary for paint removal to a greater extent. Thankfully they are better able to maintain rotation for me on challenging surfaces. However, when I use a stiffer pad, like a Hydrotech, the trade off is that the orbit plays a bigger part actively abrading the surface. The drawback is that on irregular surfaces it's easier for me to lose backplate rotation. On flat surfaces, Hydrotech pads spin faster than my filter foams. Again, the trade off is that they're not actively "grabbing" at the paint surface with abrasive covered "loops", like the filter foams.
 
Todd Helme has a good article explaining why orbit alone can correct will post it when I find it or come across it again. A friend of mine still stuck in the old school way of thinking forced rotation cuts better was pleasantly surprised when I pulled out my 3401 and MKII on hard paint on curves. The 3401 naturally kept rotating and so did the MKII so we had to purposely stall the MKII to test the cutting ability on orbit only. The MKII orbiting only destroyed the 3401 on curves as far as leveling paint and speed of correction. We then went to a flat panel and had to put the 3401 away as it was embarrassing at howmuch more powerful the new technology MKII's are. Needless to say he is now buying a long throw and not believing the bull he reads on the net.

Makes.we want to get an MK2 now lol my G21 is in-between a legacy and mk2 power wise

How do you like the kamikaze plates?
And I had allot of rotary guys say long throw finish horrible compared to 3401and rotaries lmao
Say DA finish come out milky while rotary are crisp.. made me laugh
 
^ the G21 is plenty enough for a long throw DA, by all means if you have money to burn then buy another one...
 
Makes.we want to get an MK2 now lol my G21 is in-between a legacy and mk2 power wise

How do you like the kamikaze plates?
And I had allot of rotary guys say long throw finish horrible compared to 3401and rotaries lmao
Say DA finish come out milky while rotary are crisp.. made me laugh

Those comments are generally from old school carburetor type guys who don't embrace technology but rather shun it. They rotary,wool,rocks in a bottle type crowd. The longer throws will always finish better as they move the abrasives and spent product further away keeping the pad and surface cleaner. As for the Kamakaze plates they do run smooth and aid in rotation but are they worth a small fortune? That's entirely upto you and very subjective. The days of 3 step corrections and still not finishing off with insane clarity are over thanks to modern compounds, thin firm pads and long throw polishers.
 
for those concerned about stalling with long throw DA's, if you can find one of these then you shouldn't have a problem at all lol...
 

Wow...

A shame that I never came across this article...

I experimented with my friend's truck using really low speeds on my 7424. I used speed 4.5 , UC, and a coarse green b&s pad for on the truck, covered in branch scratches... My pad clogged up faster than anything. I also used a little more compound than usual. The idea was to get more abrasives on the surface to munch away at the paint.

This hasn't always been the case, but I'm reminded of the first time I used a random orbital, and achieved strike through.. Since day one I've never subscribed to he heavy pressure loads because it didn't make sense to me, to reduce backplate rotation. When I reduced pressure, I increased pad motion, which in my mind is essential to removing paint.

When I learned of the Rupes system, I felt a bit validated. I though about how they stress no downward pressure, I thought that they have an anti-spin shroud to limit pad rotation, that they increased rotation as orbit size decreased. Then I though about my PC with no shroud, and what speed I would need to operate at to approximate an "8mm Rupes" machine if there ever were one. To me, speeds 4-4.5 seem to give me the back plate rotation, with light pressure that seems to give me that result.

It's almost like excessive pressure, speed, and rotation can be overkill. Like one is "over shooting the target".... For sure sometimes it's probably necessary, but I never combine those. Occasionally I'll used more speed, but rarely if ever use heavy pressure. Again, this technique is only when using compounds like Ultimate Compound, and M100. The other advantage is reduced dusting, and easier tool control.
 
Those comments are generally from old school carburetor type guys who don't embrace technology but rather shun it. They rotary,wool,rocks in a bottle type crowd. The longer throws will always finish better as they move the abrasives and spent product further away keeping the pad and surface cleaner. As for the Kamakaze plates they do run smooth and aid in rotation but are they worth a small fortune? That's entirely upto you and very subjective. The days of 3 step corrections and still not finishing off with insane clarity are over thanks to modern compounds, thin firm pads and long throw polishers.

I have to agree. Since the day I used the Rupert system as intended, it's proven to perform to an extremely high level. I leave the shroud intact on the Duetto, I use their polishes and pads... I've been very happy with the system.
 
Makes.we want to get an MK2 now lol my G21 is in-between a legacy and mk2 power wise

How do you like the kamikaze plates?
And I had allot of rotary guys say long throw finish horrible compared to 3401and rotaries lmao
Say DA finish come out milky while rotary are crisp.. made me laugh

If you go by the theory presented by Todd's article, a Kamikaze plate, and all that isn't really necessary. Theoretically you could get the results with a legacy 21.
 
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