So I already have a dedicated 3 inch DA as well so I don't need 3 of these, I also do this for business so figured I can sell them off and get one BA one
how much do you think you can get for them?
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So I already have a dedicated 3 inch DA as well so I don't need 3 of these, I also do this for business so figured I can sell them off and get one BA one
Not trying to be rude, but these posts about people who haven't ever used a polisher, yet spring for a Rupes, are in for a rude awakening. Yes, the Mark II has less stalling issues, but will still stall on MANY areas of a car, especially if you don't have experience. The best place to start for a newbie is a GG 6" 8mm DA.
I did a Ferrari not long ago, particularly the rear fender with a very awkward angle where I was getting orbit only without rotation on my 15 ES. Lo and Behold with orbital action only it corrected swirls amazingly well! I can only imagine howmuch more efficient my soon to arrive MKII would have behaved on the same panel. I have yet to see where the Rupes fell short on a curve or concave and where the Flex outcut it. We too obsessed on rotation only forgetting the massive throw is cutting as well.
I think you and I are the very few that believe you can level away paint without rotation and just oscillation and massage technique
Do it allot with my G21
Never personally tried it with my 12mm or 8mm though
As for original poster
GG6 and make your PC a 3in
Or if your set on selling the PC
Then GG6 as 3in and get a long throw
I think you and I are the very few that believe you can level away paint without rotation and just oscillation and massage technique
Do it allot with my G21
Never personally tried it with my 12mm or 8mm though
As for original poster
GG6 and make your PC a 3in
Or if your set on selling the PC
Then GG6 as 3in and get a long throw
Todd Helme has a good article explaining why orbit alone can correct will post it when I find it or come across it again. A friend of mine still stuck in the old school way of thinking forced rotation cuts better was pleasantly surprised when I pulled out my 3401 and MKII on hard paint on curves. The 3401 naturally kept rotating and so did the MKII so we had to purposely stall the MKII to test the cutting ability on orbit only. The MKII orbiting only destroyed the 3401 on curves as far as leveling paint and speed of correction. We then went to a flat panel and had to put the 3401 away as it was embarrassing at howmuch more powerful the new technology MKII's are. Needless to say he is now buying a long throw and not believing the bull he reads on the net.
Makes.we want to get an MK2 now lol my G21 is in-between a legacy and mk2 power wise
How do you like the kamikaze plates?
And I had allot of rotary guys say long throw finish horrible compared to 3401and rotaries lmao
Say DA finish come out milky while rotary are crisp.. made me laugh
Those comments are generally from old school carburetor type guys who don't embrace technology but rather shun it. They rotary,wool,rocks in a bottle type crowd. The longer throws will always finish better as they move the abrasives and spent product further away keeping the pad and surface cleaner. As for the Kamakaze plates they do run smooth and aid in rotation but are they worth a small fortune? That's entirely upto you and very subjective. The days of 3 step corrections and still not finishing off with insane clarity are over thanks to modern compounds, thin firm pads and long throw polishers.
Makes.we want to get an MK2 now lol my G21 is in-between a legacy and mk2 power wise
How do you like the kamikaze plates?
And I had allot of rotary guys say long throw finish horrible compared to 3401and rotaries lmao
Say DA finish come out milky while rotary are crisp.. made me laugh