One step or two?

From the pics it would look like a 2-step but you need to do a test spot to be sure. If it turns out to be a 2-step but you want to try and get it down to one, you could try Megs UC. I've been able to get UC to finish wax-ready on terrible paint with an orange LC CCS pad and GG6...that was on soft paint though.
 
Added info It's a 2010 mercedes benz c300 with ceramic clear coat .
 
It all depends on what you want.
Close to perfect or much improvement ?

I don't have the twins but I do have the Wolfgang Uber Compound, if you were to use it along with a white pad you'd be close to getting it 85% with removing defects IMO.
It finishes down better than any other compound I ever used.

The Meguair's D151 is a one step product I'm starting to love, it has some abilities to remove light defects, a great all in one product.

If I were you I'd start out with a white pad using the Wolfgang Swirl Remover and see what it gives you.

This all this said I think a two step correction is in order if your looking for perfection.

Good Luck:)
 
I do have some wg uber compound.

The car is my daily driver. I'm looking to get 80-85% out of it.
 
If its your car then its all up to you want your looking to get out of it. If your happy with the one step leave it.
 
Just for reference:

1 Step- AIO

2 Step- Polish/Wax

3 Step- Compound/Polish/Wax

Are those correct?

Just by looking at those pictures I imagine a 3 step would be necessary to achieve the best results.

But test spots are always recommended in trying to achieve the least abrasive method. So might as well do as is recommended.

If I were you I would try and achieve the highest potential results.

I would then apply a coating. Such as Opti Coat.

Then the hard work that had to be done to get you there, will only become easier to maintain the cars finish.

I coated my cars paint, headlights and I also bought CarPro Carpet Coating for the interior carpet of my car.

My windshield is coated to btw :)

Sent from my LGMS659 using Tapatalk
 
hernandez.art13 said:
Just for reference:

1 Step- AIO

2 Step- Polish/Wax

3 Step- Compound/Polish/Wax

Are those correct?

Just by looking at those pictures I imagine a 3 step would be necessary to achieve the best results.

But test spots are always recommended in trying to achieve the least abrasive method. So might as well do as is recommended.

If I were you I would try and achieve the highest potential results.

I would then apply a coating. Such as Opti Coat.

Then the hard work that had to be done to get you there, will only become easier to maintain the cars finish.

I coated my cars paint, headlights and I also bought CarPro Carpet Coating for the interior carpet of my car.

My windshield is coated to btw :)

Sent from my LGMS659 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Sorry I want to make myself clear, I want to polish then wax not AIO . just don't know if I need to compound or not. So I guess I should be asking 2 step or 3 step :buffing:
Looks like it's going to be a 3 step. I still need to strip the car and see if the dealer used any fillers
 
I never include wax/sealant as a step, to me it's always implied since you'll be removing defects.

1 step = compound
2 step = compound+polish

Not trying to hijack your thread. And I find ANY black car needs a 2 - step due to hazing, but it all depends on what your expectations are.
 
Had to start a new thread on correction step definitions.

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Why skip on a proven process? Do the 2 Step process. Skipping IMO will leave a less than perfect shine. Compound and then polish....that should be it. Top it off with a sealant or wax or both.

Skip the burger with the fries.....just doesn't make sense. Oh well my 2 cents worth
 
I auctualy did a truck today that I did a tape line comparison with D151. It does a decent job for a one step, not a show car finish, but a noticeable improvement and the customer was thrilled! Used a GG6 with tangerine GG pads.
 
Kamakaz1961 said:
Why skip on a proven process? Do the 2 Step process. Skipping IMO will leave a less than perfect shine. Compound and then polish....that should be it. Top it off with a sealant or wax or both.

Skip the burger with the fries.....just doesn't make sense. Oh well my 2 cents worth
Click to expand...

agreed.. but customers a lot of time do not want to pay
 
HD.Detailing said:
agreed.. but customers a lot of time do not want to pay
Click to expand...

I never thought of that :iagree:. The old saying..."you get what you paid for"...LOL!! However, if it is your ride then the 2-step process; no question. I do not have a detail business, just my hobby. My close friends really love me when it comes to cleaning their cars...LOL

:buffing:
 
Firehouse Mike said:
I auctualy did a truck today that I did a tape line comparison with D151. It does a decent job for a one step, not a show car finish, but a noticeable improvement and the customer was thrilled! Used a GG6 with tangerine GG pads.
Click to expand...


It shows a difference at the tape line, even on white.
What I love the most about the Meguiar's D151 is how easy it is to work with, it spreads well, does correct light defects and wipes off as easy as removing a wax.

Perfect all In one for those who just wants to remove light defects and get the paint to pop.


Anyone knows how long the protection last with the D151?
 
D151 usually lasts about 60 days give or take for me.

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The uc /up would do a more thorough job of correction of scratches and swirls.

The D151 is good for daily drivers, that aren't gonna be taken care of like most of us will take care of them. I generally use D151 on trashed cars that will likely see the automatic wash again, if any.

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