ONR Before LSP

It's on a black 2007 Grand Cherokee SRT8. After the first application and only one coat, I'm incredibly happy with the results. It gives the paint quite a bit of shine.

^This brings up the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" as was mentioned a couple posts back as well.

Very nice. WGDGPS looks awesome on black/darker cars.
 
The general consensus now, is that what used to be considered a "strip wash" of using Dawn, to remove your old sealant before applying a new one, wasn't actually removing anything. When you "stripped" with Dawn, and got no beading, you weren't actually "stripping" down to a virgin surface, you were adding a layer of polymer gunk to the top of your existing sealant (the purpose of the said "polymer gunk" in Dawn is to allow the water to "sheet" off of your dishes so you don't get water spots).

So the countless people around our world who used this process weren't putting their new sealant directly on the paint, they were putting it on top of Dawn surfactants, which were on top of their previous LSP...and no one was any the wiser.

Most people who communicated (here in this forum) that they used Dawn in their process have polished the vehicle in some fashion AFTER the Dawn "strip" (myself included). In my experience in this forum I have NEVER read someone went from Dawn to LSP. No one ever mixed Dawn gunk with LSP gunk here to my knowledge.

I'm relatively new to the detailing world and have a quick question. I know a lot of people that love ONR, so it was the first decent wash that I bought. I currently use ONR like a normal wash with the 2BM and rinsing after, but I'm worried that the ONR is leaving something on the surface that may be affecting the adhesion of my Wolfgang DGS. Am I right to be concerned about this?

ONR leaves polymers for gloss enhancing but I have never heard that they affect any LSP. Nor have I experienced anything negative either.

Well, I don't have a crazy scientific means to back this up, but I have seen no ill effects on the LSP's I have used after application on a traditionally washed car (specifically 2 bucket method with Meg's Gold Class) vs. one washed with ONR.

Clearly I am +1 on this point.

krabby, i suggest not over thinking detailing to much, just takes you down a rabbit hole. You'll be fine, no lsp's have ever spontaneously combusted on a car before! :)

Excellent response.
 
I currently use ONR like a normal wash with the 2BM and rinsing after

If you rinse afterwards you will never have to worry about rubbing leftover dirt into the paint. It would have to be safer. After you rinse just spray ONR on the paint from a pump sprayer as a drying aid and you will be fine. If I was going to go to the trouble of pulling out 2 buckets and a hose I would just use car soap and wash mitt but there is nothing wrong with using ONR
 
Most people who communicated (here in this forum) that they used Dawn in their process have polished the vehicle in some fashion AFTER the Dawn "strip" (myself included). In my experience in this forum I have NEVER read someone went from Dawn to LSP. No one ever mixed Dawn gunk with LSP gunk here to my knowledge.

Yeah, except all those Zaino guys who were following Sal's recommendations. But I guess we don't have anyone on this forum out of the 74,444 members who ever used Zaino, except me. (And no, I never did a Dawn wash)

C'mon man, do I have to dig up threads about people wanting to use Dawn or CW&G to strip their LSP before applying a new LSP withouth polishing? I know you really enjoy disagreeing with me, but c'mon.
 
If you rinse afterwards you will never have to worry about rubbing leftover dirt into the paint. It would have to be safer. After you rinse just spray ONR on the paint from a pump sprayer as a drying aid and you will be fine. If I was going to go to the trouble of pulling out 2 buckets and a hose I would just use car soap and wash mitt but there is nothing wrong with using ONR

That's what I thought. I also don't even really feel the need for a drying aid a lot of the time because we have a water softener. Spots have not been an issue for me since I was still using our liquid-rock water. I will probably be buying a different kind of soap to add to my arsenal, but I was trying to avoid having too many different products (should have given this up when my towel collection exceeded 30 or so). I bought the CG Honeydew to use mostly as a pre-soak because it seams to make a lot of suds, which I'll need since the Foammaster runs off a hose. Unfortunately I won't be doing any serious paint work for a while. My Jeep was hit a couple weeks ago and just got fixed, but I have a couple concerns with the clear spraying they did so it's going to have fresh paint on it for probably 5 weeks or so.
 
Hey krabby, I know you have the answer you needed but I found this in an old thread and thought it was pretty cool.

Check out 2A. This is an answer straight from Doctor G him self. Definitely the answer you want to hear.


Originally Posted by CEE DOG View Post
Below is a response from Dr. David Ghodoussi of Optimum. He gave some very thorough responses which I really appreciated. Black print shows my questions and blue print shows Dr. G's answers.

Hi Corey,
Thank you for joining the Optimum forum and for using the Optimum Car Care products. I do remember our conversation about No Rinse at Detailfest and I appreciate that you decided to try it out since then. I appreciate also your thorough review of Opti-Clean and I will try to do the same in answering your questions below.


1. - For what reason would someone not just use ONR in the place of OOC for the purpose of cleaning paint. What I mean is: When a car is at the stage where OOC would be a good solution for cleaning, why not use ONR in a spray bottle and MF towels to achieve the same result?

No Rinse used as a quick detailer works fine for a car with light dust while Opti-Clean can be used on a car with several days of build up. The reason is that Opti-Clean contains the same polymers in No Rinse that encapsulate dirt but at a much higher concentration than No Rinse QD as well as other polymers not used in No rinse that offer more lubricity and gloss.

2A.- Will Opti Clean have any negative affects on looks, durability, or protection if a sealant or wax is applied directly after using it? Context: Someone has washed their car at night and decided to come back to it in the morning to seal. Because of the condensation on their vehicle they decide to wipe it down with Opti Clean before sealing.
2B.- Same question for ONR
2C.- Same question for OID

Based on the chemistry of these products (Opti-Clean, No rinse, Instant Detailer), there should be no bonding issues or affects on the longevity of waxes or sealants when you use these products before or after application of waxes or sealants. The protective film these products leave behind is dissolved and removed by the chemical solvents and abrasives used in waxes or sealants. None of these products contain detergents or solvents to remove waxes or sealants and therefore they only add protection not remove them.

3A. - What are the finer points of reasoning on the ONR directions stating to use a MF towel rather then a wash mitt or other media? I prefer using an MF towel but would like to know the reasoning behind that being specifically stated.

The reason we recommend Microfiber towels is that there are anywhere from 50,000 pores per square inch for an average microfiber to 200,000 pores per square inch for a very plush Microfiber towel. These pores are active sites to trap dirt and remove it from the surface. Therefore you get a much greater cleaning and protecting effect from a microfiber towel than a wool mitt, etc. The towels we offer are on the upper end of the range I mentioned. The only draw back when using a Microfiber towel as the wash media is that it is hard to remove the dirt that is trapped by No Rinse from the towel unless you use a strong detergent like Power Clean.
Another great wash media is a soft sponge (minimum 80 PPI) that works great for washing with No Rinse. The advantages of sponge over Microfiber is that dirt particles can get adsorbed into the sponge and away from the surface. We are working with a foam manufacturer to develop a mitt that not only is safe and gentle for the automotive paint but also has good cleaning and dirt release properties. Once we complete all the testing and development, we will make this new foam mitt available to help make the wash process with Optimum No Rinse easier.

4. - What is the main difference in OOC and ONR? What I mean is: Is their something interesting you can point to that wouldn't require us to be chemists to understand? Such as: Do they have a much different PH? Does one contain much more protective polymers then the other? Which has a stronger cleaning ability if used in the same way?

While both of these products are pH neutral, Opti-Clean contains much higher levels of polymers than No Rinse as well as some new polymers that we developed for this type of application. The added polymers are necessary to compensate for using a fraction of the water as compared to a regular No Rinse wash.

5.- Do the polymers in OOC have any level of UV protection in them?

You do get some level of UV protection from the reflection effects as well as some sacrificial UV protection (the polymers breaking down rather than the paint). But for UV protection, you need specific compounds designed to block UV light. The main product we offer for exterior application that provides the most UV protection is Optimum Car Wax which contains these specific chemicals to block UV light.

Please let me know if I can be of further assistance. Thanks again.
Best Regards,
David,

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
Sweet, now I have confirmation without a doubt. Nice find.
 
Yeah, except all those Zaino guys who were following Sal's recommendations. But I guess we don't have anyone on this forum out of the 74,444 members who ever used Zaino, except me. (And no, I never did a Dawn wash)

C'mon man, do I have to dig up threads about people wanting to use Dawn or CW&G to strip their LSP before applying a new LSP withouth polishing? I know you really enjoy disagreeing with me, but c'mon.

To my recollection I have disagreed with you one time Setec, which was in the last 30 days or so; and it isn't germane to this thread. I shared my experience .... now you share yours as you see fit... and let the OP decide how best to proceed. We are all on the same team so no hard feelings here; especially given the faceless nature of this forum. Respectful debate is good. Lambasting OP's or contributors that are providing reasonable feedback is not.
 
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