Optimum Hyper Compound on yellow foam pad, not enough cut?

ihaveacamaro

ihaveacamaro

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Hey guys, I used the PC 7424xp for the first time yesterday, so maybe it was my technique more than anything, but I didn't notice as much cut as I thought I would've.

My test subject was a friend's 2000 buick regal in white. It had pretty heavy swirls. I applied a moderate amount of hand pressure down, used a real slow arm speed, and I made sure my pad was flat on the surface.

First tried with an orange flat pad with OHC and only got maybe 50 percent correction with 6 section passes.

So then I tried a yellow flat pad with the OHC and it just didn't seem to get rid of the swirls. I did 12 section passes in my test spot, followed by 6 section passes of OHP on white pad and got ok results. I would say 75 percent correction.

Is there something I'm doing wrong? I can't seem to get it to a 90 percent correction level or higher. Please help!


Also, I got some dusting with both OHC and OHP, this is normal right?

edit: can't take any pictures because I'm getting hit by hurricane rain right now :(
 
Decrease pressure, let the pad/product do the work, lube with ONR dilution if drying too quickly.
PC speed 5.5 .
 
I had logged out and was in the garage when I remembered that the paint that you are working on is a hard clear.

Happy detailing...:autowash:
 
Is this a basecoat/clearcoat finish?

Do you see white paint coming off on your buffing pad?


I ask because while the majority of all cars have a clear coat finish sometimes white paint jobs are single stage because it's cheaper to paint and because white paint uses titanium dioxide for a pigment and in the case of a single stage paint this makes the paint hard and this hardness also helps it to last a long time. Thus same result, (last a long time), as a basecoat/clearcoat finish without the expense and in most cases the average person knows none of the above.


:)
 
Vegas Transplant said:
Decrease pressure, let the pad/product do the work, lube with ONR dilution if drying too quickly.
PC speed 5.5 .
Click to expand...

I will try this, thanks for the tip.

Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Is this a basecoat/clearcoat finish?

Do you see white paint coming off on your buffing pad?


I ask because while the majority of all cars have a clear coat finish sometimes white paint jobs are single stage because it's cheaper to paint and because white paint uses titanium dioxide for a pigment and in the case of a single stage paint this makes the paint hard and this hardness also helps it to last a long time. Thus same result, (last a long time), as a basecoat/clearcoat finish without the expense and in most cases the average person knows none of the above.


:)
Click to expand...

Interesting, didn't know this.

However, I didn't see any white paint, just the color of the compound and polish.
 
Have you tried a finer polish after the compound? maybe you're not cleaning up the swirls from the heavy compounds and pads...
 
Really surprising. I've taken some pretty good swirling out of hard GM clear with yellow and OHP. You have been shaking the bottle before you spray it every time? Did you shake it real good before starting?
 
cleanmycorolla said:
Have you tried a finer polish after the compound? maybe you're not cleaning up the swirls from the heavy compounds and pads...
Click to expand...

Yeah I have OHP as the polish on a white pad which I used after the yellow pad to get 75% correction. Thanks for the suggestion :)

Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Work a smaller area is another tip I can think of...

:)
Click to expand...

My area was maybe 1.5 ft by 1.5 ft. I will try 1 ft by 1 ft with 6 section passes of compound and polish if weather permits. Thanks for the tips Mike :)

DaveT435 said:
Really surprising. I've taken some pretty good swirling out of hard GM clear with yellow and OHP. You have been shaking the bottle before you spray it every time? Did you shake it real good before starting?
Click to expand...

Hey Dave, as I said in my OP, I'm not ruling out bad technique yet because this was my first time with the PC.

I did watch all the PC videos Mike has put up, so I know that my theory of how to use the PC is sound, but my practice may not be the best. I hope experience will be a good teacher...

As for shaking, I gave it 3 to 4 good shakes, but I will shake a lot more next time.

Thanks for the tips Dave :)
 
ihaveacamaro said:
Yeah



Hey Dave, as I said in my OP, I'm not ruling out bad technique yet because this was my first time with the PC.

I did watch all the PC videos Mike has put up, so I know that my theory of how to use the PC is sound, but my practice may not be the best. I hope experience will be a good teacher...

As for shaking, I gave it 3 to 4 good shakes, but I will shake a lot more next time.

Thanks for the tips Dave :)
Click to expand...
I figured you shook it. Thought maybe if it was separated it might take a little more shaking to get it to mix. Sometimes it the simplest things that cause the biggest problems.
 
randoms don't really do swirls for me..not without a lot of passes.....a rotary is what I need for real correction....
 
glen e said:
randoms don't really do swirls for me..not without a lot of passes.....a rotary is what I need for real correction....
Click to expand...

Maybe in a few years, I just bought the PC seriously two days ago!
 
If you haven't got any more cut out of it you should have some place local that sells Meg 105...that may have a little more cut. I'm really surprised that the UHC didn't give you better cut. I get pretty good cut out of UHP with a meg maroon cutting pad.
 
I got some on BOGO and need to go pick it up. I'm looking forward to playing with it.
 
Smaller sections and remember orange is not a heavy cut pad...it's more like a heavy polishing pad. Yellow isn't much more. On tough swirls you may need microfiber or Surbufs.
 
I get fantastic cut from the hyper compound. The dusting has me a little concerned because I don't get any. Maybe the paint is super hard, don't know on older GM paint. Vegas above seems to think this is the case. To work super hard paints you might need surbufs or MF pads like Chris mentioned above. I have been nothing but impressed with the Optimum Hyper polishes.
 
The different pads do seem to make more of a difference with the hyper products...at least the polish.
 
To add to the suggestions...... When I first tried Hyper Compound, I was spraying too much product and not getting the desired results I was after. After spending some time with the product, I found that lessening the amount of product I used actually increased the defect removal. Most likely due to over lubricating.
 
Told you so in the other thread. ;) Not that OHC is a bad product, it's just not on par with M105. I also told you to go with MF pads ;)

LC Orange pads are an absolute joke for removing heavy swirls. I have not a clue where they got the reputation of being a cutting pad. They're definitely more of a polishing pad. No wonder rotaries were so popular before MF/surbufs. Heavy correction with a DA must have been pretty much worthless. The MF pads were a HUGE step for DA's.
 
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