David Fermani
New member
- Apr 19, 2007
- 703
- 0
The purpose of this test is to document the durability and effectiveness of Optimum Opti-Coat. Unlike mainstream polymer paint sealants & waxes, this coating is not offered to the general public and is only sold to licensed and insured professional detailers. After hearing several people raving about the results of this new product I reached out to Dr. Ghodoussi @ Optimum to discuss its properties as well as the marketing direction this product is intended to satisfy. I suggested to Dr. G that I’d like to do an independent test on my new company car to see if this product is as good as everyone claims. He showed a moderate amount of interest at 1st, but when I told him that I’d only be washing only with Dawn dish soap & harsh Touchless car washes he became even more awakened to say the least. To add fuel to the fire, I told him that I’d only be applying the product to ½ the vehicle and the paint on the factory hood would be sanded flat to test the product’s UV ability. We’ll, the rest is history…..
Here are the particulars on the car. 2010 Ford Fusion – Silver clear coat metallic. I contacted my sales rep@ Plantation Ford (Plantation, FL) to insist that nobody lay a single hand on my car except the Tech to do the mechanical prepping. This one came 100% defect free.
Here’s how it beaded with ZERO protection:
Top horizontal place of the hood was sanded 95% flat. I used 3M 1500 Trizact(wet) with my Porter Cable XP on speed 3.5. This clear is ROCK HARD & I ended up going through 5 discs of paper on just the hood!! I then refined the 1500 with 3M 3000 grit Trizact(wet).
I then removed the sand scratches with Meg’s M105 via Lake Country Cyan (blue) by PC using the Kevin Brown Method (KBM). I then followed with Meg’s M205 via CL White via PC too.
50/50 Sanded Shots:
As you can see, there is quite a large difference in texture after the sanding process. I’m anxious to see if any premature failure occurs (on either side) as this car will be parked 100% outside and runs at least 8 hours per day, 5 days a week in the hot S. Florida climate!
Orange Peel (no sanding):
Orange Peel (after sanding):
PREP PROCESS
Beading with M205 oils:
Dawn Wash:
Soaking:
Beading after Dawn:
AM Blue Clay Magic (H2O Flush Technique):
Optimum Power Clean (totally killed beading):
No More Beading after Power Clean:
Here are the particulars on the car. 2010 Ford Fusion – Silver clear coat metallic. I contacted my sales rep@ Plantation Ford (Plantation, FL) to insist that nobody lay a single hand on my car except the Tech to do the mechanical prepping. This one came 100% defect free.
Here’s how it beaded with ZERO protection:
Top horizontal place of the hood was sanded 95% flat. I used 3M 1500 Trizact(wet) with my Porter Cable XP on speed 3.5. This clear is ROCK HARD & I ended up going through 5 discs of paper on just the hood!! I then refined the 1500 with 3M 3000 grit Trizact(wet).
I then removed the sand scratches with Meg’s M105 via Lake Country Cyan (blue) by PC using the Kevin Brown Method (KBM). I then followed with Meg’s M205 via CL White via PC too.
50/50 Sanded Shots:
As you can see, there is quite a large difference in texture after the sanding process. I’m anxious to see if any premature failure occurs (on either side) as this car will be parked 100% outside and runs at least 8 hours per day, 5 days a week in the hot S. Florida climate!
Orange Peel (no sanding):
Orange Peel (after sanding):
PREP PROCESS
Beading with M205 oils:
Dawn Wash:
Soaking:
Beading after Dawn:
AM Blue Clay Magic (H2O Flush Technique):
Optimum Power Clean (totally killed beading):
No More Beading after Power Clean:
rops: :iagree:
. I understand going to a brush-less auto wash, but WHY are you going to continue to wash with Dawn? Trying to give Opti-Coat a hard time to see if it lasts I assume.
