Optimum Opti-Lens Headlight Coating - What YOU Should Know

Setec is right, it's just to make sure the surface is clean and smooth so the bond will be with the surface and thus, permanent. Neither Polish II, Hyper Polish, nor Finish will marr. As long as your not using wool or a dirty pad ;)
 
GRrrr... So, I did my headlights and it decided to rain. I know, I know. "Didn't I know it was going to rain?":bash:

After reading up on the Optimum forum... found out it's okay to get wet an hour after application. (Not lucky, in my case...)

I've done a few cars at dealers, where it rained just a few minutes after coating. When I checked back on them the next week, they all looked fine. Won't hurt to add another coat either way.

On the other question, I will second/third the response on the polish.... it won't haze the lens and it's only to get a clean surface. On a new car, you could just do a thorough wash and wipe down with IPA, prep-all, etc.
 
New question here... does opit-lens have the same glossy shiny effect that a clear coat would once it is applied to the lens?

In other words, clear lacquer really makes a headlight really pop and enhances the clarity of the lens. Does opti-coat provide then same appearance after being applied?>
 
New question here... does opit-lens have the same glossy shiny effect that a clear coat would once it is applied to the lens?

In other words, clear lacquer really makes a headlight really pop and enhances the clarity of the lens. Does opti-coat provide then same appearance after being applied?>



I would say yes. :dblthumb2:


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New question here... does opit-lens have the same glossy shiny effect that a clear coat would once it is applied to the lens?

In other words, clear lacquer really makes a headlight really pop and enhances the clarity of the lens. Does opti-coat provide then same appearance after being applied?>
No, it's clear and not glossy.
 
Just did 2 sets of headlights with OL and it might have gotten just a tad glossier, but barely noticeable. Just like paint, it's all in the prep work. OL will not hide scratches or sanding marks.
 
Now how does this stack up to the leading meguiars headlight leans protector I would asume it last's longer do to the fact that its a coating or no? If anyone here has ever tried the meguiars one please post your overall thought on it. from my experience with it, it works quite well and last a good long wile.
 
Just looking at the description from Meguairs, IMO you can tell it's not going to last: Applying this product every time you wax your car ensures that your headlights look new and bright for a longer period of time. That's a pretty weak claim for this type of product. Maybe they are just being more conservative or honest than is typical? :props:

I don't consider it a "coating" in the sense normally used in HLR, and I wouldn't be surprised if it's no better than any basic wax that has some UV protection... or other protectants like 303, etc.

Opti-lens is a true coating that is permanent, at least relative to waxes, sealants, and protectants like 303, megs, etc. As one of my dealers pointed out, the p word is a big word. And considering that factory coatings are failing sometimes after just 2-3 years from date of mfg.... that's a good point. :props:
 
Now how does this stack up to the leading meguiars headlight leans protector I would asume it last's longer do to the fact that its a coating or no? If anyone here has ever tried the meguiars one please post your overall thought on it. from my experience with it, it works quite well and last a good long wile.

"The leading Meguiar's headlight leans protector" doesn't exist.

Meguiar's has a headlight restoration kit with a hand buffer, 2 sanding discs, some plastic polish, plastic sealer (which really isn't a sealer at all) and a drill attachment for buffing, are you talking about that one?

Meguiar's also has a professional kit that also includes 4" pads for doing spot repair, plus a LOT of sanding discs, everything from 500 grit to 3000 grit and it also includes a small bottle of M105 and M205. Is this the one you are talking about?

I only ask because the first one you can buy at your local parts store for $30, and if you put enough time in it you can get decent results. But unless you break out a DA buffer you're really fighting with yourself when using it because it's just a hand sanding pad and a synthetic wool drill buffer. This one I bought years ago and used it on a set of headlights that were in decent shape to bring them back to life, but if they have failed (in that the UV coating has become hazed and foggy) you'll need more.

The second kit I also have, (normal retail $299 but AG has it on sale now for $125 and it's a KILLER DEAL!) You can do any lights you might run across with this one and it'll finish them out to a fantastic level.

However... once they are finished you MUST put some sort of coating on the lens. The stuff that Meguiar's offers isn't a coating, and it really isn't a permanent sealant either. It's more of a lotion than anything. Think of it as suntan lotion for your headlights. Unless you reapply it with every washing the lights will fade again fairly quickly.

Remember, when you do a (major) headlight restoration it's usually because the OEM coating has failed. Once it's in that condition the only thing that will help is to totally sand and remove that coating, getting back to the polycarbonate headlight itself. Thing is, now, although it's nice and clean, clear, and shiny, it has NO protection from UV damage.

This is where Opti-Lens is different than the "lotion". It provides a permanent coating and will protect your newly restored headlights from fading and further UV damage. Plus for even greater protection it can be "layered". It will not wash off or will not wipe off. Oh, and fwiw, the 10cc applicator should be enough for 5 to 10 pairs of headlights. (According to Optimum)
 
And you can do exterior trim with the Opti Lens.

I wouldn't .... More if a Opti-Coat thing there. Although OL will work on plastic (at least the lenses it does).

I like other trim sealers there though. Stuff like PERL, 303 (not so much of a sealant though), WG Trim Sealant, OTTGP and/or 4Star Trim Sealant. Even the Griot's trim stiff is OK on some trim.

Several WG vinyl and rubber, plus trim type products that are all good.


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Can this be applied to epoxy resins ? The same found on carbon fiber. Trying to avoid uV damage

Did we ever get an answer to this? I will most likely be clear coating my carbon fiber then applying some sort of sealant after. I interested in protecting my carbon fiber from yellowing and want the extra UV protection that this formulation seems to provide. I assume this would help the yellowing better than the normal formulation of Opti Coat.

Also can this go under clearbra without problems? I think normal Opti-coat can be applied under clearbra.

Lastly can you top clearbra up with this coating? Seems like it would both work since they are both plastics? If you couldn't tell I really paraniod about my carbon fiber yellowing. I have a carbon roof coming in and want to protect it as best as possible.

Thanks! :xyxthumbs:
 
And you can do exterior trim with the Opti Lens.

Chris Thomas on Optimum Forum did say this.:xyxthumbs:

He says it is a great trim coating, and when asked if one should use this over OC 2.0 for trim he said, "Yes the added acrylic makes it thicker (covers porous surface better) and has a restorative effect (darkens and glosses)."

Might be nice to try because at least for me, OC 2.0 did not have a darkening effect on trim like DLUX does.
 
I wouldn't .... More if a Opti-Coat thing there. Although OL will work on plastic (at least the lenses it does).

I like other trim sealers there though. Stuff like PERL, 303 (not so much of a sealant though), WG Trim Sealant, OTTGP and/or 4Star Trim Sealant. Even the Griot's trim stiff is OK on some trim.

Several WG vinyl and rubber, plus trim type products that are all good.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using AG Online

Chris Thomas on Optimum Forum did say this.:xyxthumbs:

He says it is a great trim coating, and when asked if one should use this over OC 2.0 for trim he said, "Yes the added acrylic makes it thicker (covers porous surface better) and has a restorative effect (darkens and glosses)."

Might be nice to try because at least for me, OC 2.0 did not have a darkening effect on trim like DLUX does.

Time will tell.
 
Chris Thomas on Optimum Forum did say this.:xyxthumbs:

He says it is a great trim coating, and when asked if one should use this over OC 2.0 for trim he said, "Yes the added acrylic makes it thicker (covers porous surface better) and has a restorative effect (darkens and glosses)."

Might be nice to try because at least for me, OC 2.0 did not have a darkening effect on trim like DLUX does.

Seems I remember that statement too. That's one reason I'd likely not use it on trim, (at least trim that is in good shape). Just don't want the darkening effect. :dunno: Might try it on some older trim though, even some harder plastics like the steps on top of a bumper, or maybe some running boards. Would get REALLY expensive though on a running board @ $59.99 for 10cc. (Sure, the dealer pack @ 40cc is much more cost efficient, but it's also much more money.) ;)

I have a local shop that recommends me for headlight restoration all the time. I'm thinking of going exclusively with OL and advertising it as a selling point. Cost per application wouldn't be but about $3~ $5 tops (with thick coats, using the dealer pricing).
 
Did we ever get an answer to this? I will most likely be clear coating my carbon fiber then applying some sort of sealant after. I interested in protecting my carbon fiber from yellowing and want the extra UV protection that this formulation seems to provide. I assume this would help the yellowing better than the normal formulation of Opti Coat.

Also can this go under clearbra without problems? I think normal Opti-coat can be applied under clearbra.

Lastly can you top clearbra up with this coating? Seems like it would both work since they are both plastics? If you couldn't tell I really paraniod about my carbon fiber yellowing. I have a carbon roof coming in and want to protect it as best as possible.

Thanks! :xyxthumbs:
Feed back please
Anyone? Thanks
 
Setec is right, it's just to make sure the surface is clean and smooth so the bond will be with the surface and thus, permanent. Neither Polish II, Hyper Polish, nor Finish will marr. As long as your not using wool or a dirty pad ;)
I am repainting my Corvette & installing a Lemans headlight kit which has a new lens assembly. The body shop inspected the lens and said it had already been clear-coated (they were going to spray clear-coat if it hadn't been.) My plan is to wait about 30 days and apply Opti-coat 2.0, and after reading the instructions and watching the videos, was going to apply Opti-coat to the new headlight lenses (especially since there is clear-coat on them.) What's the recommendation now that Opti-Lens is out? Use it instead of Opti-Coat? In addition (on top of) Opti-Coat. Polish off the Clear-Coat and apply Opti-Lens?
 
What's the recommendation now that Opti-Lens is out? Use it instead of Opti-Coat? In addition (on top of) Opti-Coat. Polish off the Clear-Coat and apply Opti-Lens?

Not to speak for Chris, but put the Opti-Lens, not Opti-Coat, over the factory coating.
 
Not to speak for Chris, but put the Opti-Lens, not Opti-Coat, over the factory coating.

It's still a bit confusing. As I understand it the formula of Opti-Lens is designed to bond specifically with the materials of the lens, not the clear-coat that may be over it. Thus my question.

I have ordered the Opti-Lens, but now wonder what preparation to use given that I've been advised that there is clear-coat over the material of the lens? Just clean with 15% IsoAl, or polish off the clear-coat to the base material?

Which sort of takes me full circle to my original question. If Opti-Coat is designed to bond with clear-coat, which would be the better protection for the lens as it now exists from the vendor?
 
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