Optimum Spray compound and polish Problems

blacklightning

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Hi i have a 99 ford lightning that i try my best to keep scratch free and waxed , i decided to try out the new otimum spray products. Now i had a few swirl marks in my hood so i used the hyper spray polish with a ccs pad 6.5 with the lil dimples in it with my Pc polisher. When i was done come to my suprise it was way worse i had micro maring more swirls just looked horrible so i got out my rotary with a white dual side edge pad and i got the same stuff i don't know if im working it too long or not long enought can't figure it out .... Please help and everything was clean i clayed and everything i even tryed shaking the bottle alot


shawn
 
Did you try using an original liquid polish on the hood instead of the spray polishes?

I suggest trying that. As that would be the easiest way to rule out whether it was the spray polish or something else going wrong.
 
Well i did get it all out but i had to use the wolfgang swirl and glaze and it was fine just trying to figure out if the product is no good or what i don't have any of there other polish kinda turned down with the spray stuff not working all that great
 
IMO the I would focus on your pad size.. 6.5" would nor be my 1st choice for a pc/da excluding forced driven machines.

5.5 & 4 will be the pad sizes of choice.
 
The pad size shouldnt affect it to much, i to just received my spray hyper coumpound to find it leaking all over, thank god autogeek has great service and sent me out another one but the one i have leaks if you shake it up:cry:But i have my doubts about this product.I dont know if it will replace the traditional polishes. we will see.
 
Was the paint properly cleaned and clayed before polishing / compounding ?

Seeing as it was black, were you doing all this in the sun ? Makes for bad juju when polishing no matter what the product by affecting work time, number of passes, etc..
 
Yes i did clean it and clay and no i was not in the sun. I think it maybe the product cuz my wolfgang swirl with orange pad then the glaze with white. Why i tryed it with the optimum figured i could use the hyper polish spray with the orange and white pad and got crappy results. I don't get it though in the video with mike it came out perfect. oh well
 
Interesting. I haven't had any of that trouble with the spray products.... but I DO absolutely hate the spray heads on the bottles Optimum provides.

They aren't really very adjustable, and with each trigger pull I get tons of overspray onto the body of the polisher, the floor, adjacent body panels, etc.
 
Interesting. I haven't had any of that trouble with the spray products.... but I DO absolutely hate the spray heads on the bottles Optimum provides.

They aren't really very adjustable, and with each trigger pull I get tons of overspray onto the body of the polisher, the floor, adjacent body panels, etc.

Im with ya on that, i called optimum and David said that its a special sprayer, i wanted to try a different one. Do you think a different one would work? other that it being blue it dosent seem to special to me?
 
I haven't tried the product but I did just watch the video produced by Mike Phillips.

Show Car Garage Product Showcase - Optimum Polymer Technologies

The finish on the car used to demonstrate Optimum Hyper Spray sounds like it was much worse to start so could it be that you should have started with something finer like Menzerna PO85RD? Another clue might be your pad choice. According to Mike you can change the cutting nature of the compound by changing the pad to something less aggressive so that might help too.

Just my thoughts
 
Yes i did clean it and clay and no i was not in the sun. I think it maybe the product cuz my wolfgang swirl with orange pad then the glaze with white. Why i tryed it with the optimum figured i could use the hyper polish spray with the orange and white pad and got crappy results. I don't get it though in the video with mike it came out perfect. oh well

are you using to much of the product? orange pad maybe to aggressive. and remember sometimes it take more than 1 pass to get results you are looking for. try the white pad and 2 passes with the optimum spray. and i know in the video Mike got it ot work with the same pad combo you tried but remember Mike has been doing this for years, he can manipulate any polish/pad combo to make it look like he wants it to look. so dont get discourage if you dont get the results he gets
 
Im with ya on that, i called optimum and David said that its a special sprayer, i wanted to try a different one. Do you think a different one would work? other that it being blue it dosent seem to special to me?

The only thing I see that could be "special" is if the fluid orifice is larger than that on a traditional sprayer so the abrasives don't clog it up and can flow through it freely. I haven't tried using a different one yet to see if that's the case or not.

If it is, I would say that another revision of the sprayer is in order. Other than that one issue I think the products themselves work great.
 
As noted "IF" your finish does not require or need an abrasive polish then always start with the least abrasive product and work from there.

The Hyper Compound is abrasive, a true non-diminishing product and as long as it's wet it's cutting. Also remember that these new Optimum polishes have been made for harder clears and you'll get best results from a rotary. I wouldn't use them on softer paints...until we get the finishing polish done.

These are made with car manufacturers/body shops in mind first then detailers.

For those with sprayer problems, try to pull the trigger in one quick, short pull. I pull back on the sprayer with force, fast and quick. This gives me a nice spray on the pad or panel and cuts back on over spray. Adjust the sprayer so that it's dialed all the way closed and then slowly open it up until you get a nice "mist" type spray.

You can remove the cap and work a needle or paper clip thru the opening so as to enlarge it.

Anthony
 
As noted "IF" your finish does not require or need an abrasive polish then always start with the least abrasive product and work from there.

The Hyper Compound is abrasive, a true non-diminishing product and as long as it's wet it's cutting. Also remember that these new Optimum polishes have been made for harder clears and you'll get best results from a rotary. I wouldn't use them on softer paints...until we get the finishing polish done.

These are made with car manufacturers/body shops in mind first then detailers.

For those with sprayer problems, try to pull the trigger in one quick, short pull. I pull back on the sprayer with force, fast and quick. This gives me a nice spray on the pad or panel and cuts back on over spray. Adjust the sprayer so that it's dialed all the way closed and then slowly open it up until you get a nice "mist" type spray.

You can remove the cap and work a needle or paper clip thru the opening so as to enlarge it.

Anthony


Are you saying that OPT Finish polish (non spray) is not a good follow up to the sprayable polish for cleaning up the marring during rotary or DA polishing?

I tried the trio out on my 04 toyota (soft paint) and was having dificulty with faint halograms but I blamed my technique.

Anthony I was also wonder about how many passes on avg I should make with these before worrying about drying or checking results

Chris
 
As noted "IF" your finish does not require or need an abrasive polish then always start with the least abrasive product and work from there.

The Hyper Compound is abrasive, a true non-diminishing product and as long as it's wet it's cutting. Also remember that these new Optimum polishes have been made for harder clears and you'll get best results from a rotary. I wouldn't use them on softer paints...until we get the finishing polish done.

These are made with car manufacturers/body shops in mind first then detailers.

For those with sprayer problems, try to pull the trigger in one quick, short pull. I pull back on the sprayer with force, fast and quick. This gives me a nice spray on the pad or panel and cuts back on over spray. Adjust the sprayer so that it's dialed all the way closed and then slowly open it up until you get a nice "mist" type spray.

You can remove the cap and work a needle or paper clip thru the opening so as to enlarge it.

Anthony
How about a Flex 3401?
 
I'm not sure what advice to give. I've used the products since they were in beta and they feel more natural to use for me than any other liquid abrasives I have used. I prime the pad with 2-3 sprays, spread the polish on the area, apply pressure for the first couple passes then start easing off till the product looks more haze than polish. I just remove with an ONR wash or follow with Poliseal to seal and take care of the residue in one step.

I have used it with the rotary and the Flex DA with no issues.
 
That is 100% incorrect...


When using a PC pad size has a HUGE effect and can make the difference between being frustrated with poor results and getteing great results and ready for lsp!

I completely agree and maybe this can go without saying, but it is very important that you start with a clean pad that hasn't been sitting around gathering debris. I like to spur or brush before I add the first bit of polish.

Anthony I was also wonder about how many passes on avg I should make with these before worrying about drying or checking results

This has been the million dollar question that cannot be answered with words ever since I joined detailing forums. You can't polish by a set of rules and get great results, you have to learn how the polish works and be able to discern when its finished. It does have a certain look to it when its done being worked, but its too hard to capture in a photo and proves more difficult to put into words. That is the importance of a test spot as well. The OPT sprays work best for me with a couple of pressure passes followed by a few more with diminishing pressure. Try to concentrate on how the pad glides during the first couple passes and when it starts to feel different than that, its drying up or finished. You will find the sweet spot only by practice.

How about a Flex 3401?

I use it with my Flex DA and rotary with great results. I feel that you do need forced rotation with these products, but that's just an opinion. I'm results oriented so I don't reach for the PC much for correction (no offense to those of you who get great results).
 
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