Paintwork still rough after clay

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cheekyage

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Hi all,

After a clay over my whole car I am finding most flat panels and surfaces are still rough.

Any ideas as to why this is the case?

I also still had a number of tar spots that weren't removed during the clay process.

I was under the impression that a claying assists with decontamination of the paintwork?

The clay bar itself was not very dirty as the car was in pretty decent condition, just with some light swirls.

Any info or recommendations would be great!
 
Which clay bar was used?

I usually have great results with either the blue or red clay from the Mirror Glaze line of Meguiar's.

Also using something like CarPro Trix or Tar-X will help break down the tar on the paint.
 
Also, how long did the claying process take?

I am just thinking out loud but perhaps you never spent sufficient time claying. If the car is badly contaminated, it can take a long time to completely clay it.... a couple of hours.

Also, just another little tip that you may adopt, if you so choose....
I also try as far as possible to use a dedicated iron remover and tar remover prior to claying, in order to remove the bulk of the 'hard' contamination without contact to the paint. This reduces the risks of marring the paint, and extends the workable time of the clay as it takes longer to become loaded with contaminants.
 
cheekyage said:
Hi all,

After a clay over my whole car I am finding most flat panels and surfaces are still rough.

Any ideas as to why this is the case?

I also still had a number of tar spots that weren't removed during the clay process.

I was under the impression that a claying assists with decontamination of the paintwork?

The clay bar itself was not very dirty as the car was in pretty decent condition, just with some light swirls.

Any info or recommendations would be great!
Click to expand...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...remove-above-surface-bonded-contaminants.html

Thought I would put up a link that show's indepth on how to use clay the proper way and if you are applying in the same manner & technique, or the simply fact that it could be your clay and/or need a more aggressive clay.

Myself I like to go back and rewatch video's of how-to's just for the simple fact that I maybe not doing a step properly or following through my technique like I once did.
 
Thanks so much for your informative replies guys.

I used the blue Clay Magic bar.

Just a couple of quick questions with regards to the iron and tar remover -

1. What are the differences between iron remover and tar remover?
2. Is this a simple and easy process to do on your own?
3. What products are recommended?
4. Should you use just one of the iron and tar products or both?

Many thanks in advance.
 
Clay it again! This time with FEELING!!!!!

But seriously, sometimes you need to make multiple passes to really get it smooth. Your clay bar might not be aggressive enough or your car might have tons of contaminants or both. When I got my Kia the hood and trunk felt like sandpaper, it took 2 and sometimes 3 rounds of claying to get it smooth.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Switch to a nano product and listen to the paint.

Sent from my LG-E970 using Tapatalk 2
 
cheekyage said:
Thanks so much for your informative replies guys.

I used the blue Clay Magic bar.

Just a couple of quick questions with regards to the iron and tar remover -

1. What are the differences between iron remover and tar remover?
2. Is this a simple and easy process to do on your own?
3. What products are recommended?
4. Should you use just one of the iron and tar products or both?

Many thanks in advance.
Click to expand...















Sent from my Lumia 800 using Tapatalk



Iron x removes small bits of iron from bodywork and rims, tar x removes tar deposits small black lumps.



From watching videos etc its very easy just spray on one product at a time give it time to work and wash off



The main one I hear about is called tardis, there are loads about tar x and iron x may also be called fall out removers.



Use each product seperately



As for still feeling rough it takes a long time for clay to pick up contaminants of paintwork so a few passes on each panel maybe nescessary use plenty of lube (detailing spray)



If people think I have put something that's incorrect please let me no then I will of learnt something new





Sorry for long post hope this helps though
 
Has the vehicle ever been repainted? Are you sure its bonded contaminates? Which soap did you use prior to the clay?

I haven't had many things a claybar wouldn't remove, but some can be a total pain. Tar and iron specifically.

If I were you, I'd pick up some carpro trix, and decontaminate the paint first with that, then clay the paint. That will remove any iron particals and tar spots. Then the clay should take care of everything else, with the exception of old hard tree sap. I use rubbing alcohol, or hand Sanitizer for a few sap spots, for a lot, I'll wash with an apc.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online
 
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