Pictures: Autogeek’s Roadshow Class with PRAXIS Detailing in Auburn, Indiana

[57Rambler]

That '70 Boss 429 Mustang in Grabber Blue came out sweet ! :dblthumb2:

White and black interior is icing on the cake, you don't see many of those.

I always liked the '70 better than the '69 as they went to the matte black hood scoop vs. body color scoop - black makes it stand out/look more menacing.

If it's all original/numbers-matching, that baby could be worth $300-400K ...

 

[EH]

Hey Mike,

What a great class in Auburn! I've always dabbled in detailing my own cars, but never was 100% confident in what I was doing. Attending this past weekend 2 day class really boosted my confidence.

Using the different tools and products was great, but for me, having you looking over my shoulder and letting me know what I was doing right and what I was about to do wrong was worth the price of admission.

Sharing your years of experience and all your tips and tricks was priceless. I'm sure I'll attend another class in a couple years just to stay up on products and new techniques and tools.

I know it's a lot of work for you to put these classes on outside of the Auto Geek shop, so thank you for taking the time and effort to do it.

Until next time,

Eric

 

[Mgshirey]

Yes, thanks to Mike Phillips & Mike Liebing for a lot of effort to teach us detailing! I am ready to come back. My garage is not air conditioned nor do I have the tool selection and product selection that was at this class. It was fun to meet each of you and work beside you on projects.

 

[jenrobbie66]

Mike:

Thank you for the GREAT class!

I was a little nervous going into this, thinking I would be a little behind everyone else, but you structured the class in a way that targeted everyone -- no matter what the skill.

There was a lot of information to pack into 2 days, but you did it, and didn't let any of us slack! You did a great job of explaining all of the tools and products used, as well as all the proper steps and I now have the confidence to do my own car soon!

Highly recommend for any level!

Thank you!

Jennifer Robertson

 

[Aaryn NZ]

Wow! There’s some fantastic testimonies right there. rops:

As most of you have just posted for the first time on the AGO Forum - Welcome! :welcome:

Please do stick around & join in the fun. This class looked super cool, & as an alumni of one of Mikes classes myself I know you all were busy & took away a lot from this class as well. Congratulations to you all. rops:


Aaryn NZ. :dblthumb2:

 

[Mike Phillips]

I just got back home from the Auburn, IN auto detailing class.

What a class and what I learned will make my job easier in my detailing business. The class is hands on and Mike is hands on the entire class.

We worked on six cars the first day from washing to finish seal. I was exhausted but it was so worth it.

We got to experience different buffers, pads, towels products and techniques.

The second day we continued detailing and got more experience on show car detailing along with engine and interior cleaning.

Great summary Josh!

I watched you through out the entire 2-day class and what really stood out to me about you're style of detailing is you are extremely focused on the task at hand and that's a key strength when it comes to the craft of car detailing and the art of polishing paint.

Incredible class and worth every penny.

I can’t wait to attend the boat detailing class In February.

Thanks Mike for everything.



-Joshua L.M Fitzgerald

If you think our car detailing class is incredible - wait until you go through the boat detailing class. I'm happy to say, it's just as hands-on if not more hands-on because I bring in REALLY BIG BOATS! And they are in HORRIBLE condition when they arrive but when they leave, they look fabulous!


It takes time to go through the pictures and document a class like this one you took or any of my boat classes. I'm sorry to say I have not been able to get all the pictures up from this year's boat class but I did get them all up from the 2018 Boat Class.

Check out this thread as it will show you just how hands-on our boat class is....


Pictures: 2018 Boat Detailing Class at Autogeek with Mike Phillips


Here's the link to the 2019 Class, check out the boats,

Pictures & Comments 2019 Boat Detailing Class at Autogeek with Mike Phillips

 

[MV2020]

I was a hobby detailer looking to learn the secrets of the industry and to remove the anxiety of ruining paint.

After attending the Auburn IN class I now have the confidence to work on any car. Mike gave us an assortment of tools and products to use hands on in the class. Mike gave the class 110% effort and he shared knowledge that is invaluable.


-Michael Velazquez

 

[Mike Phillips]

I was a hobby detailer looking to learn the secrets of the industry and to remove the anxiety of ruining paint.

After attending the Auburn IN class I now have the confidence to work on any car. Mike gave us an assortment of tools and products to use hands on in the class. Mike gave the class 110% effort and he shared knowledge that is invaluable.


-Michael Velazquez

Hi Michael,

Thank you for attending and for sharing your experience on our forum. Right now I'm adding the text to go with the picture here,


Post #17 of THIS thread - (the one you're eyeballs are looking at right now) - takes time to make all these pictures AND text magically show up.



This includes this picture of you working on the bad ass Mustang....


Michael decontaminating paint.

I'll keep working through the pictures until they are all up as this thread is going out in my next newsletter to show others EXACTLY what they get to do at one of our classes.



:dblthumb2:

 

[Mike Phillips]

Continuing with the pictures from this class.....


While one team was working on the 1969 Mustang Boss 429 the other team was working on the 1964 GTO.

Both teams using the same tools, pads and products as the first class covers simple, 8mm free spinning random orbital polishers. This is the foundation and after this first set of tools we move to long stroke orbital polishers and BUILD on this foundation.


Here's before...

My friend the Squirrel Finder Light....
The difference between a swirl and squirrel

Ouch!

Step 1: Waterless Wash
In this picture, I'm share the correct technique to use Pinnacle Waterless Wash with Carnauba to wash a car followed by the Mike Phillips technique for using a waterless wash.

Step 2: Mechanical Decontamination

Here's Jamie using a Medium Grade Nanoskin Towel to remove above surface bonded contaminants off the GTO.

Teamwork!

Step 3: Machine Compounding

Our Test Spot revealed this car to have softer paint than the 1969 Mustang so instead of cutting with the Burgundy Buff & Shine foam cutting pad the class used the blue light foam cutting pad with the Pinnacle Advanced Compound .

Here's Jamie CARFULLY edging with a Griot's 6" ROP and a Buff & Shine BLUE foam cutting pad

Two cars being detailed at the same time. Same tools, pads and products. PLENTY of room for everyone to get PLENTY of hands-on time.

Step 4: Machine Polishing

Here's Ronnie polishing the hood (after compounding), with Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish and a Buff & Shine Yellow Uro-Tech 6" Foam pad.

Teamwork!

That's Roger down on the ground. Rodger is a real go-getter!

Reminds me of me and an article I once wrote

If it has paint it gets polished - Mike Phillips

TJ on the trunk lid

Step 5: Machine applying Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax


Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax is normally applied by hand and works great but I like to show how to apply it by machine.

Inspecting your microfiber towel

How, why & when to inspect your microfiber towels when detailing cars




Step 6: Wax removal

Final Results!

Group Shot after the first two cars for this 2-day class!

 

[57Rambler]

Got any pics of the Goat's 389 engine ? :drool:

 

[Praxis IN]

Mike

I'd Had a Great Time and took in a Lot of info.

Meet a Lot Great People and made friends in the Process. Vast amount of Info was Shared, and a Great learning Experience.

Thank You so much for Your Time and to the Host Mike Liebing as well.

The Equipment Used was Great and Learn how To used Each One .

The Cars were of a vast varieties, and Learn how to make One, 100% Better then when we started , with Great People as a Team to make them look Great.


Thank You to the Team and to Both Mike's

Roger Clark


:dblthumb2:

Hey Roger thanks for bringing your cars and being motivated to help in any way, nice to have you at the class.

 

[SWETM]

Awesome work Team! And many cool and beutieful cars you worked on!

Great to learn by doing hands on teaching. And Mike Phillips is an awesome guy and really does something extra ordinary with his classes.

Thanks for shareing the 2-day detailing class with us.

/ Tony

 

[Mike Phillips]

Got any pics of the Goat's 389 engine ?

:drool:

Getting some....

 

[Mike Phillips]

Continued....


Here's another topic we cover at ALL our car detailing classes and that is,


How to correctly clean and protect a canvas convertible top


Our classes include,

3-day Bootcamp Classes at Autogeek in Stuart, Florida --> January - May - September

2-Day Roadshow Classes - All across the United States of America


>>> Click here for info on upcoming car and boat detailing classes <<<<



Now onto the convertible top this class washed and protected on the 2004 Ford Thunderbird.




Step 1: Wash, clean and dry the top.

1. Vacuum loose dirt out of the weave.
2. Blow-out loose dirt out of the weave.
3. Blass off loose dirt using a strong spray of water
4. Spray RaggTopp Fabric/Vinyl Cleaner onto top.
5. Agitate RaggTopp Cleaner using the RaggTopp Convertible Top Brush
6. Thoroughly rinse all loosened dirt and road grime off the top until water sprayed on top runs clear.
7. Move car where top will remain clean and fully dry.

Spraying RaggTopp Fabric/Vinyl Cleaner onto top after first rinsing and wetting the top.

After spraying the cloth top down with the RaggTopp cleaner, the class then uses the RaggTopp and Haartz Convertible top brushes to safely scrub the cloth fibers that make-up the top.

After thoroughly rinsing, the blotting technique is shown for safely drying a cloth top. We also go over the reason WHY to use the blotting technique. Then the class uses Cobra Guzzler HD Waffle Weave Drying Towel to safely dry the water off and out of the top via capillary action.

Step 2: Spray RaggTopp Fabric Protectant onto top.

1. Hold spray about 8" to 10" away from top and lay down a heavy or wet application.
2. Hold can so product sprays inward toward top to avoid overspray onto glass and body panels. (it will wipe off)
3. Spray extra product onto any visible stitching.
4. Wearing safety nitrile gloves, gently massage the product INTO the fabric.
5. Allow product to fully dry and repeat until you empty the can on your car's top.

Here's Armando and Luis spraying the T-bird top with RaggTopp Fabric Protectant.

This is what a heavy or wet application looks like. Kind of looks like morning dew on the top.

Mike Phillips Technique

The original directions state to let the product dry and then re-apply. In my way of thinking, I don't what the product sitting on TOP of the fabric drying, I want it INSIDE the fabric drying. So with the blessing of Rick Goldstein, (owner of RaggTopp), I show people to first put on some safety gloves and then massage the product into the weave of the cloth.

All colors of cloth
It's easy to see the dramatic before and after sides of the product sitting on the surface and where I've worked it INTO the cloth because this cloth top is BLACK. You should also do this for all other colors of cloth tops even though on lighter colores like white and tan cloth tops it's harder to see this before and after difference. The BIG PICTURE is to work the product in no matter what the color.

Here's Luis working the product into the cloth on the passenger side.

Here's the end results.

The cloth has a darker, fresher factory new look. Plus the waterproofing is restored and UV protection is restored.

 

[Mike Phillips]

Continued.....


BEFORE

AFTER

Now onto the NEXT topic we cover at our classes...

 

[Mike Phillips]

Continued....


RUPES Detailing Academy - Roadshow Style!


Ever since Autogeek brought the RUPES line of tools into the Autogeek Store I've been showcasing the RUPES tools as a system. That's because if you read my how-to book,

How to use the RUPES BigFoot Paint Polishing System
(for production detailing and show car detailing)

I explain that RUPES is not merely a tool, it's a complete and well-thought out paint polishing system. I probably have more how-to articles and reviews on RUPES products than anyone breathing. And as a professional courtesy to RUPES - I always show their tools with their pads and their products and do my best to stay on the RUPES message. (I also do this for all tool and product manufactures, it's my training from my days at Meguiar's)




Building on a foundation

I start all my car detailing classes with simple, 8mm free spinning random orbital polishers. The current tool I showcase is the Griot's 6" Random Orbital Polisher. This is basically a version of the ORIGINAL tool for the 8mm free spinning random orbital polishers and that is the Porter Cable 7424 and 7336 units. We sell both polishers here at Autogeek but the fact is - the Griot's version simply has a TON more usable power.

The BIG PICTURE being, I have people attend my classes from all walks of life from being brand new to detailing and machine polishing to being seasoned professionals. No matter what their background I start them out with what I consider to be the easiest tool to learn how to use and master and that's 2 things. Even Pros learn tips and techniques when I go over 8mm free spinning random orbital polishers.

After we build the foundation for right and wrong techniques - NEXT we move onto the RUPES line of polishers. I NEVER say RUPES or any brand of long stroke polisher is more difficult to use than the simple 8mm tools, but I do think that they require a tick more technique and skill to maximize their potential. Read that carefully because I'm a veteran of the Zaino vs NXT Wax Wars and every word I type online I pick with purpose. If I write it - I can defend it. No one takes what I write apart over a single word.




The RUPES Tools

The BigFoot electric polishers include,

21mm BigFoot Legacy, Mark II and Mark III
15mm BigFoot Legacy, Mark II and Mark III
12mm Duetto and Mini


The RUPES Mille
RUPES also has introduced a 5mm gear-driven orbital polisher. It is not referred to as a RANDOM orbital polisher because the gear-drive means a FIXED orbit pattern. Free spinning orbital polishers, because they are NOT gear-driven results in a RANDOM orbital pattern and that's because they are not gear-driven the backing plate and pad can make random orbital patterns depending upon a number of factors like,

• Tool speed.
• Pad size, thickness and weight.
• Technique - how the tool is held.
• Shape of body panel.
• Etcetera

The Mille is "like" the FLEX XC 3401 aka the BEAST except that the BEAST offers an 8mm gear-driven orbit pattern. So,

Mille = 5mm orbit pattern

BEAST = 8mm orbit pattern​

I let the students use ALL the tools and let them decide which tools they like and that includes these two powerful gear-driven orbital polishers.


RUPES Nano
RUPES also offers the very cool Nano polisher in long and short neck versions. I bring both versions to the class. The Nano tools come with 3 different swappable drive units called orbit connector and/or eccentric set. By choosing which swappable connector or unit you install into the head of the Nano you can choose from one of the below 3 drive options.

3mm free spinning random orbit connector
12mm free spinning random orbit connector
Rotary pattern eccentric set

Here's my article on their with pictures and more info.

RUPES Terms - Eccentric Set and Orbit Connector - Nano iBrid Tools


And if you ever purchase a RUPES Nano - be sure to read this before making a mistake.

RUPES 2" Backing Plate not for use with the rotary connector and the RUPES Nano iBrid in Rotary Mode




RUPES Rotary Polisher

I have 1 RUPES rotary polisher in the entire collection of tools at Autogeek. I have LOTS of corded and cordless FLEX PE14 rotary polishers as FLEX provided these free of no charge. FLEX knows how hands-on my classes are and takes advantage of this touch point to get their tools into the hands their target market. During the RUPES detailing session we don't use the RUPES rotary polisher just like we don't use the FLEX PE14s during the FLEX detailing session. I reserve rotary buffers for the wetsanding class when yu learn the most efficient tools to use to remove sanding marks.

If you want more info on the RUPES rotary polisher or you would like to see some pictures, check out my review

Review: RUPES BigFoot LHR 19E Rotary Polisher by Mike Phillips at Autogeek



Now that I've covered some background information about RUPES tools and how our classes flow, let's take a look at the pictures taken as the class detailed 2 more cars at this Roadshow Car Detailing Class

 

[Mike Phillips]

Continued....


The RUPES Paint Polishing System


For this RUPES hands-on detailing class we're going to be working on two BLACK cars. Don't they say BLACK PAINT is the hardest to correct and make perfect?

So let's put RUPES to the test.

The training cars for the RUPES class are the 2006 Chevy Monte Carlo SS and a 2005 Ford Thunderbird Convertible.


First let's take a look at the Monte Carlo.


Micro-Marring

Here's how the hood looked. What you're seeing in this picture is called micro-marring. Micro-marring is a SPECIFIC scratch-pattern caused by either the abrasive technology or too aggressive of a pad and sometimes from both of these things. It is induced by an ORBITAL polisher, NOT a rotary buffer. Roger owns this Monte Carlo and says this is how the paint was when he purchased the car. This means the last person to detail or machine polish this car is clueless as to what they are doing. They should take this class. :laughing:

Here's a recent article I wrote on micro-marring.

Pictures of Micro-Marring - DA Haze - Tick Marks - Compounds - Polishes - AIOs - Clearcoat Paints






Step 1: Waterless Wash to clean the Monte Carlo

For this we used the BLACKFIRE Paint Prep. (sorry no pictures)




Step 2: Mechanically decontaminate the paint.

For this we used Mothers Detailing Clay and Mothers Instant Detailer

Step 3: Test Spot

As the guy that coined the term Test Spot for the detailing industry, I'm very comfortable explaining why to do one and then how to do one or in some cases, 2 or 3 Test Spots. After doing our Test Spot we found the RUPES Yellow/Yellow was all that was needed to correct the paint and finish out to acceptable, show car results on black paint.




Step 4: Paint correction and perfecting


Pads
For pads we used the RUPES Yellow Polishing Pads

Product
For product we used RUPES Keramik Gloss Fine Gel Polish 250 ml

Tools
Students are allowed and encouraged, and even helped by yours truly to use all of the RUPES tools or at least all the RUPES tools they are interested in using.


Here's Roger and Ronnie working on the hood of the Monte Carlo.

This looks to be a RUPES BigFoot 15 Legacy model.

This looks to be a RUPES BigFoot 15 Mark III model.

In the back are Josh and Eric.

Eric is using the RUPES Mille with the 5" backing plate and a RUPES yellow BigFoot pad, (not the Mille pad)

Josh looks like he's using a RUPES BigFoot 21 Mark II model.

While one team is training on the Monte Carlo,

From this shot you can see 2 cars are being detailed at the same time - both using RUPES. My RUPES classes are strictly HANDS-ON. There is no power point and no sitting in chairs.

Step 5: Chemically Stripping the Paint

To chemically strip the paint we used the BLACKFIRE Paint Prep. (sorry no pictures)




Step 6: Installing the BLACKFIRE Pro Ceramic Coating

BLACKFIRE Pro Ceramic Coating is a 2 year ceramic paint coating.



Here's Ronnie installing BLACKFIRE Pro Ceramic Coating to the front clip of the Monte Carlo.

Here you can easily see the ceramic paint coating being wiped onto the paint and flashing...

 

[Mike Phillips]

Continued...


Now we'll take a look at the T-bird. Earlier in the morning we washed the Ford Thunderbird to clean the fabric top to show the correct way to apply RaggTopp. You can read about this here. While washing the car we also chemically decontaminated the paint and then mechanically decontaminated the paint - so we don't need to do these steps and instead can go right to the Test Spot.


Step 1: Test Spot

Like the Monte Carlo, we found the paint on both cars that it could easily be corrected and perfected using RUPES Yellow/Yellow. When you see the pad and product described like this, it's RUPES LINGO.


Step 2: Machine correct and perfect the paint



Here's Mike and Luis working over the hood....

Looks like Mike is using the RUPES Mille with the dedicated THIN Mille yellow foam polishing pad.

Looks like Luis is using the RUPES BigFoot 15 Mark II model

At the back of the car, Armando is using the RUPES Mille with what looks like the larger Mille 7" yellow foam polishing pad.

Down on the passenger side fender is Michael, I can't tell which polisher he's using but looks like either a BigFoot 15 or 21

Out back is Jennifer using a Mille and David looks t be using a RUPES BigFoot 15 Legacy model.

NOTE how the canvas cloth top is covered up to protect it using Autogeek Cover-up Towels? That's because we treated it with the RaggTopp Fabric Protectant and we don't want to get any compound or polish splatter onto it.

Step 3: Chemically Stripping the Paint

To chemically strip the paint we used the BLACKFIRE Paint Prep. (sorry no pictures)




Step 4: Installing the BLACKFIRE Pro Ceramic Coating

BLACKFIRE Pro Ceramic Coating is a 2 year ceramic paint coating.



Here's Luis installing BLACKFIRE Pro Ceramic Coating to the front clip of the Ford Thunderbird.

Most ceramic coatings have a RAINBOW appearance under the right light when flashing off...

Pinnacle Black Label Tire Coating was just recently launched so I brought some for the class to test out. Unlike a tire dressing, this product dries to the touch and creates a deep, dark almost plastic appearance with one application. Most tire coatings take multiple applications to create a deep, dark black look.

 

[Mike Phillips]

Continued....


Here are the results


2006 Chevy Monte Carlo SS

2005 Ford Thunderbird

RUPES Mastery

And a group shot of the class that mastered the RUPES paint polishing system!

 

[Mike Phillips]

Continued....


Next up is the Griot's Garage Detailing Class!


Griot's BOSS Long Stroke Orbital Polishers


I like to let the class use the Griot's long stroke BOSS polishers, BOSS pads and BOSS creams immediately after using the RUPES system and let them make up their own mind as to which tools and paint polishing system they like best. And as you'll see - everyone is on their feet working with the tools. No chairs. No sitting.


For this class they will be working on the 1965 Lincoln Continental and the 1939 Lincoln Zypher!



1939 Lincoln Zypher

Step 1: We did a waterless wash using BLACKFIRE Paint Prep. (sorry no pictures)

Step 2: We did the Baggie Test and discovered the paint was lightly contaminated so we used Mother's Detailing Clay plus Nanoskin Towels to mechanically decontaminate the paint, glass and trim.



Here's Jackson using traditional detailing clay to remove above surface bonded contaminants.

First lubricate the paint using Mothers Instant Detailer

Then form the clay bar into a patty and rub it over the paint.

Step 3: Perform a Test Spot - (no pictures)

Our Test Spot found we needed the Griot's Correction Cream with the BOSS orange foam cutting pad to remove the paint defects to our satisfaction and to restore a true show car finish.



Step 4: Machine compounding using the Griot's BOSS Correction Cream

Below is Eric and Josh using the Griot's BOSS polishers to remove the swirls and scratches.

Note the blanket covering the leather interior to protect it from any splatter dots.

Here's Jamie removing the swirls and scratches out of the THIN PANEL of paint in-between the trim on the side of the hood.

And then polishing the glass and trim on the emblem...

Step 4: Machine polishing and SEALING the paint in one step

The Finishing Sealant in the BOSS system is both a fine cut polish plus a synthetic sealant, so technically it's a cleaner/wax or even more technically a

Cleaner/Sealant or AIO

This means it will maximize the gloss and clarity created by the BOSS Correction Cream while sealing the paint in one step.

f

Jamie and Roger giving the paint a final wipe. In the back is Eric carefully removing tape and the cloth covering the interior.

1966 Lincoln Continental Convertible


The paint on this car was filled with HOLOGRAMS. I may have some before pictures somewhere, maybe not. But I used this car to share and educate exactly what holograms are by how they look. Just to clarify, holograms are a specific scratch pattern inflicted by a ROTARY BUFFER and only a rotary buffer.


Step 1: Wash the car and decontaminate the paint.

We washed the Continental first thing Saturday morning. This also included properly cleaning the vinyl top using 303 products.

Wheels and tires first

This car has full cover hubcaps and whitewall tires, so we go over tools, products and techniques for these types of wheels and tires.

NOTE: Class - as you read this - remember what we learned about breaking off rubber valve stems and how to avoid this issue.

Properly cleaning a vinyl top

303 Multi-Surface Cleaner is a personal favorite cleaner of mine. I shared the story about my vibrant white tennis shoes and how I stained them before driving to work at Barrett-Jackson this year for Detail Fest and how after trying 2 to 3 other name brand cleaners, that didn't work, I used the 303 Multi-Surface Cleaner and it absolutely removed the orange color from the tongue of my brand new tennis shoes.

In the same way, it SUPRE cleans this dirty, extremely neglected vinyl top.

303 Patio Furniture Cleaner, Multi-Surface Cleaner

Step 2: Do a Test Spot

Our test spot shows that the BOSS Correcting Cream was more than aggressive enough to remove the holograms.
(no pictures for the test spot)




Step 3: Machine correct the paint

The class used the Griot's BOSS Long Stroke polishers, the BOSS Correcting Cream and the BOSS orange foam cutting pads.


Here's Mike using the BOSS 15 on the hood.

Here's Ronnie using the BOSS 21

Here's Michael, (or at least Michael's hand) inspecting his results using the SCANGRIP Sunmatch II swirl finder light.

Mike and Dan correcting the hood...

The teams really start to gel after a few cars....

Step 4: Machine polishing and SEALING the paint in one step

The Finishing Sealant in the BOSS system is both a fine cut polish plus a synthetic sealant, so technically it's a cleaner/wax or even more technically a

Cleaner/Sealant or AIO

This means it will maximize the gloss and clarity created by the BOSS Correction Cream while sealing the paint in one step.



Here's Jennifer using a yellow BOSS foam polishing pad with the BOSS Finishing Sealant to perfect and seal the paint in one step.