Pinnacle Black Label Coatings in Action! Pictures and Video!

Dr_Pain said:
I have NOT washed the truck since application (2 weeks) and have NOT used a topper yet. I did get the PBL booster and the detailer and planning on doing a run with the detailer this weekend, and try the booster at the 4 week mark. Planning on doing a quick review!. Be on the lookout

I want to try the foam coating applicators they introduced but need to see someone test the ability to clean and reuse. As a single use, the suede cloth are the way to go.
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Yeah, I figured it had been too early for you to have washed it but wanted to ask just in case.
Hmm, I'll update on the cleaning of the applicators this weekend after using PBL as I'm going to start on the wife's Prius tonight. It needs some work (not swirl wise but touch up issues\rock chips. I'm not looking forward to that part as there are many on the hood :(.)
Anyways, I'm looking forward for application and testing of PBL and will do my best with pics but I don't own a DSLR camera, yet. Maybe this year if business picks up.
 
Here are a couple of update videos for you guys! First wash since the Beast was coated.

The first is a video showing the beading and sheeting action while power washing the truck. Also enjoy the following video showing how easy it is to dry a coated vehicle.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49s-3H1hfpQ]Pinnacle Black Label Coating - Pressure washing beading and sheeting - YouTube[/video]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d1vWnw0TqXc]Pinnacle Black Label Coating - Easy Drying Method - YouTube[/video]
 
Awesome! I love the follow up posts, rather than seeing initial results only! Spray wax has fantastic initial results, so seeing the PBL perform after real world driving is a real treat!! ..and product seller!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Here's a great shot of PBL Diamond Paint Coating:

f194ad91a82b27275b35adefd1ce196b_zpsf78053ea.jpg
 
Sexy!! Is this a light rain/mist shot or after a heavier downpour?
 
Dr_Pain said:
Sexy!! Is this a light rain/mist shot or after a heavier downpour?
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It was during a maintenance wash. I had just sprayed the car down and was amazed. With two toddlers, night time is the best time for me to get things done.
 
Nice write up. I watched a video of someone wetting a treated vehicle after 2 months and the water wasn't really beading or sheeting. I hope this was improper application. Sorry if the answer I'm looking for was in one on the links...but how is it doing after 3 months??
 
This is what it basically looks like! .....and that was being spayed with a pressure washer. This particular pic was taken after trying the booster but trust me it looked the same before. You can see the state of the truck and my impression in the booster review

DSC_06501.JPG
 
Dr_Pain said:
This is what it basically looks like! .....and that was being spayed with a pressure washer. This particular pic was taken after trying the booster but trust me it looked the same before. You can see the state of the truck and my impression in the booster review

DSC_06501.JPG
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I did see the booster review. Thanks for that one. Just finished doing my daughters metallic blue Nissan Juke about an hour ago. Looks gorgeous, sorry no picks. Her and her boyfriend were helping and teenagers aren't real patient. They just want the results, they don't enjoy the process like I do.I did notice there was nothing in any of the instructions about not getting it wet for X amount of hours or allow X amount of hours before driving vehicle. I was curious if there is a wait time or just finish and go?

Also I have a couple questions for you. I want to make sure I'm clear that if you want to put another coat on it has to be done before full cure(30 days) ? Also you did say you did an IPA wipe down before you did the booster?
 
DaveT435 said:
Nice write up. I watched a video of someone wetting a treated vehicle after 2 months and the water wasn't really beading or sheeting. I hope this was improper application. Sorry if the answer I'm looking for was in one on the links...but how is it doing after 3 months??
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The truck is now on its 4 month post application and still performing strong. It beads and sheet essentially the same. It did lose some of its slickness but that can get restored after application of the booster (which I did in the PBL booster review, but haven't done since). All other visual qualities are the same as when first applied.

I've played a lot with different preps before coating (with this coating and others) and can honestly tell you that if you think you are ready to coat after a quick IPA wipedown (or Erasor, or coating prep), YOU ARE NOT! I normally do my final wipe down in the dark with a headlamp or a high power single source light to see the "streaking". I've heard a couple of suggestions to remedie the oily residue that remains after compounding but as they say YMMV (your mileage may vary). My best advice to truly appreciate your wipedown technique is to compound the front glass, do a wipedown with your MF, do your IPA or Erasor or coating prep polish and do your final wipedown. If you still see streaking or residual product, then your technique needs to be reevaluated before you do it on the paint (which is going to be a lot harder to evaluate.

DaveT435 said:
I did see the booster review. Thanks for that one. Just finished doing my daughters metallic blue Nissan Juke about an hour ago. Looks gorgeous, sorry no picks. Her and her boyfriend were helping and teenagers aren't real patient. They just want the results, they don't enjoy the process like I do.I did notice there was nothing in any of the instructions about not getting it wet for X amount of hours or allow X amount of hours before driving vehicle. I was curious if there is a wait time or just finish and go?

Also I have a couple questions for you. I want to make sure I'm clear that if you want to put another coat on it has to be done before full cure(30 days) ? Also you did say you did an IPA wipe down before you did the booster?
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The prep is CRUCIAL to the longevity of the product, so don't let the teenagers rush you through this part. My instructions on PBL coatings is no getting wet for 12 hrs minimum, no wash for 1 week and fully cured in about 30 days (which can be accelerated with IR lamps). Personally I would recoat on the same day or within 12 hrs, but don't have much confidence beyond that. I would be very fearful of product rejection.

I did do a 15% IPA wipedown before applying the booster, you are correct. You need to make sure your substrate is free and clear of oily residue or product residue from your washing process. Although the booster does not "bond" it does adhere and that adherence does depend on the same factors as when you wax/seal or initially coat. The cleaner the substrate the better the end result.

DaveT435 said:
Also, that is an awesome truck.
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Thanks
 
Thanks for the info. No I wouldn't let them do anything that would sacrifice the quality of the end product.
 
I sooooo want to try this line of coatings. Gotta wait till I finish my current stock of products first hehe
 
How has the performance been after a year?

I am getting ready to polish and then re-coat my A6 which i did 2 years ago with CQuartz - and debating sticking with CQuartz or switching to this product or Optimum Gloss Coat

be nice to have some longevity results from this test
Thanks
 
maverick13 said:
How has the performance been after a year?

I am getting ready to polish and then re-coat my A6 which i did 2 years ago with CQuartz - and debating sticking with CQuartz or switching to this product or Optimum Gloss Coat

be nice to have some longevity results from this test
Thanks
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The decision to recoat is driven by several factors. I'm not sure what is driving your decision but here is my list:

  1. Product failure (or lack of noticeable benefits)
  2. An undesirable level of "love marks" (wash swirls and other handling marks)
  3. Damage to a panel which needs to be redone
  4. ....or simply because you want to try something else

Since being introduced to paint coatings (regardless if it is SiO2 or SiC based), I've had the opportunity to try many and can say honestly that PBL and DP coating (and not GC) are the easiest coating to apply. Out of these, the most number of coatings I performed was with the PBL line. The results were all initially pretty great however I found myself less and less satisfied with the results over time, and eventually opted to replace it. A few of my customer experienced the same and requested a recoat. Some "failed" earlier than other. Please note that I put the word failed in quotes because in some case the coating had not truly failed but the properties were so poor that nothing could revive them. In some cases a good chemical decontamination with Reset and IronX revived the properties, but in others nothing was found to "revive" them, so if was decided that a recoat was in order. The earliest true failure I've seen with the above quoted product (meaning it could not be revived) was 6 months however have had a few that lasted beyond the year mark.

I cannot speak of the properties of CG because I've just recently had my first experience with it (Click here for my review ), but the other 2 are very similar in technologies and results that I can speak of interchangeable results. The initial gloss enhancement of PBL/DP was great but faded quickly. There is no real scratch resistance (compared to other products) and the hydrophobic cues become progressively less starting around 4 months. The PBL line does have a booster which I have used however the "gains" were very temporary. This was expected because the booster did not have the "perfect" substrate. On my truck, the coating was replaced before 9 months and was replaced with CQuartz. PBL is MUCH easier to apply than CQuartz however the lasting benifits (gloss/look/function) goes to CQuartz. Handling marks are also less noticeable with CQuartz but without having a standardize controlled test what I am providing is purely anecdotal.

If the PBL line had better LASTING properties I think the ease of application would make it a serious contender, however the balance does favor CQuartz even with its application which is definitely not as easy as "spritz and spread"

I hope that helps :)
 
Dr_Pain said:
The decision to recoat is driven by several factors. I'm not sure what is driving your decision but here is my list:

  1. Product failure (or lack of noticeable benefits)
  2. An undesirable level of "love marks" (wash swirls and other handling marks)
  3. Damage to a panel which needs to be redone
  4. ....or simply because you want to try something else

Since being introduced to paint coatings (regardless if it is SiO2 or SiC based), I've had the opportunity to try many and can say honestly that PBL and DP coating (and not GC) are the easiest coating to apply. Out of these, the most number of coatings I performed was with the PBL line. The results were all initially pretty great however I found myself less and less satisfied with the results over time, and eventually opted to replace it. A few of my customer experienced the same and requested a recoat. Some "failed" earlier than other. Please note that I put the word failed in quotes because in some case the coating had not truly failed but the properties were so poor that nothing could revive them. In some cases a good chemical decontamination with Reset and IronX revived the properties, but in others nothing was found to "revive" them, so if was decided that a recoat was in order. The earliest true failure I've seen with the above quoted product (meaning it could not be revived) was 6 months however have had a few that lasted beyond the year mark.

I cannot speak of the properties of CG because I've just recently had my first experience with it (Click here for my review ), but the other 2 are very similar in technologies and results that I can speak of interchangeable results. The initial gloss enhancement of PBL/DP was great but faded quickly. There is no real scratch resistance (compared to other products) and the hydrophobic cues become progressively less starting around 4 months. The PBL line does have a booster which I have used however the "gains" were very temporary. This was expected because the booster did not have the "perfect" substrate. On my truck, the coating was replaced before 9 months and was replaced with CQuartz. PBL is MUCH easier to apply than CQuartz however the lasting benifits (gloss/look/function) goes to CQuartz. Handling marks are also less noticeable with CQuartz but without having a standardize controlled test what I am providing is purely anecdotal.

If the PBL line had better LASTING properties I think the ease of application would make it a serious contender, however the balance does favor CQuartz even with its application which is definitely not as easy as "spritz and spread"

I hope that helps :)
Click to expand...


I am in the same boat as you with Cquartz and PBL. Cquartz UK was the first coating I had ever used. While the properties seem to last I am not too fond of the application process. Even while taking my time and trying to eliminate high spots I always seem to be left with some.

I feel the same way as you do about the PBL line. Although I really haven't tested true durability yet the ease of application and gloss has been great. The wheel/glass coatings have held up pretty well so far too. I have been favoring this coating over Cquk recently as it's application process is a no brainer and the results are fantastic.
 
CQUK is no picnic. The easiest coating to apply is from Duragloss. There's no need to even wipe it, as it self levels incredibly well. Longevity is about 1.5 years. We have it on one car and still strong after 14 months and a vicious winter. If not for price, I'd only use pinnacle products. They are top notch.
 
Dr_Pain said:
The decision to recoat is driven by several factors. I'm not sure what is driving your decision but here is my list:

  1. Product failure (or lack of noticeable benefits)
  2. An undesirable level of "love marks" (wash swirls and other handling marks)
  3. Damage to a panel which needs to be redone
  4. ....or simply because you want to try something else

Since being introduced to paint coatings (regardless if it is SiO2 or SiC based), I've had the opportunity to try many and can say honestly that PBL and DP coating (and not GC) are the easiest coating to apply. Out of these, the most number of coatings I performed was with the PBL line. The results were all initially pretty great however I found myself less and less satisfied with the results over time, and eventually opted to replace it. A few of my customer experienced the same and requested a recoat. Some "failed" earlier than other. Please note that I put the word failed in quotes because in some case the coating had not truly failed but the properties were so poor that nothing could revive them. In some cases a good chemical decontamination with Reset and IronX revived the properties, but in others nothing was found to "revive" them, so if was decided that a recoat was in order. The earliest true failure I've seen with the above quoted product (meaning it could not be revived) was 6 months however have had a few that lasted beyond the year mark.

I cannot speak of the properties of CG because I've just recently had my first experience with it (Click here for my review ), but the other 2 are very similar in technologies and results that I can speak of interchangeable results. The initial gloss enhancement of PBL/DP was great but faded quickly. There is no real scratch resistance (compared to other products) and the hydrophobic cues become progressively less starting around 4 months. The PBL line does have a booster which I have used however the "gains" were very temporary. This was expected because the booster did not have the "perfect" substrate. On my truck, the coating was replaced before 9 months and was replaced with CQuartz. PBL is MUCH easier to apply than CQuartz however the lasting benifits (gloss/look/function) goes to CQuartz. Handling marks are also less noticeable with CQuartz but without having a standardize controlled test what I am providing is purely anecdotal.

If the PBL line had better LASTING properties I think the ease of application would make it a serious contender, however the balance does favor CQuartz even with its application which is definitely not as easy as "spritz and spread"

I hope that helps :)
Click to expand...

Thanks - that is quite helpful.

I guess my thinking to recoat is driven by two things

1. Some Swirl marks thanks to me forgetting to tell the dealer not to wash my car when it was in for service - UGGH. Did not help that it was winter and salt covered
2. thinking that CQuartz is supposed to last for 2 years - and well 2 years are up so . . .

Actually the swirls are on the hood and trunk - the rest of the car looks good. So if I could get away with polishing and just re-coating them I would but I figured if I was going to do it, best to do the whole thing

I am ok with the CQuartz application process - so maybe the best solution is stick with it - given I have been happy with it overall

Thanks
 
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