Please help me make a buffer decision - voice of reason please!

clm65

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Let me start by saying I am not a professional detailer. I only take care of the 3 vehicles in our household, as well as two boats. I currently have a Griots 6" DA and 3" DA as well as a Makita 9227 rotary polisher. I am currently in the process of buffing out some light oxidation on one of the boats using the Makita. It is going fine, but it seems that the Makita is getting heavier each time I use it. Well, maybe it's not getting heavier, but I am getting older, so you get the point. So I have started considering getting something a little lighter. However, I only use the rotary maybe once or twice every year or two. Most of my detailing can be handled with a DA. So should I suck it up and just keep using the Makita for occasionally buffing the boats, and credit it as "exercise"? Or would investing in a newer lighter weight tool be a good investment for my well being? And if I do get a new tool, is there a recommended one that would be able to adequately buff lightly oxidized gel coat, but also be safe enough to use on a car's paint? Thanks in advance!
 
I personally would stick with what you have.your doing this as a hobby so speed isn't a issue for you.I personally would stick with what you have.The griots 6 will tackle anything with the right pads and products.
 
I haven't worked with boats but....Maybe try to keep on the schedule of doing the boat twice a year so the oxidation doesn't build up as much, reducing the amount of time needed to correct it. Like I said I'm not familiar, but maybe a marine/rv All In One would work with the right pad?

Or, you could list the compound, polish, and pads you use, and others that may be familiar with the products can tell you if there is something better/quicker out there that you may want.

The Flex PE14 is said to be a good capable machine and would be a little over a pound lighter.

I believe some may use the FLEX XC 3401 for both auto and gelcoat finishes and should be safer and finish better than a regular rotary on auto paint.
 
On one hand I agree with GSKR.

On the other, you might be able to get a Flex 3401 to bridge the gap between the rotary and the GG6..
 
On one hand I agree with GSKR.

On the other, you might be able to get a Flex 3401 to bridge the gap between the rotary and the GG6..

I'd say this isn't a bad idea. Just because it's a hobby doesn't mean time isn't an issue. I do our 33ft tiara every year and I'm not about to stick with say a porter cable just because I don't need it out for a customer fast. I want it done fast so that i can get it in the water and spend less time polishing it. Limited available days as it is on top of weather restricting when I can work and my job also making it hard.

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If the makita is giving you aches and pains for sure get something lighter. Aches and pains only get worse as you get older and 3-$400 bucks is well worth a future of less back pain.

You could try using the flex pe-14 rotary. It's super light or I really enjoyed using my boss 21 this year on the boat with megs mf cut and polish pads.
 
The newer machines are great for flat big run surfaces.But I find you don't save a substantial amount of time working on cars with a 21.The larger orbit can't get into tight areas and I find that switching machines is a time waster.The new machines wil not accommodate is request as far as weight and pressure applied constantly.The flex rotary how ever is light compared to the makita.I bought the new machine and within a hor I knew this wasn't gonna work,returned it a bought a griots da.every one has the opinions and choice of tools that work for them.But I've done huge airplanes and baked rvs with this little lightweight powerful machine with no fatigue and the same results.
 
I personally would stick with what you have.your doing this as a hobby so speed isn't a issue for you.I personally would stick with what you have.The griots 6 will tackle anything with the right pads and products.

Thanks GSKR, this is what the "practical" side of me is saying. It's hard to justify several hundred dollars+ for a seldom used tool, especially if I can get good results with the GG. But I guess I still need to demonstrate that I can get acceptable results with the GG. Any recommendations on pads?
 
I haven't worked with boats but....Maybe try to keep on the schedule of doing the boat twice a year so the oxidation doesn't build up as much.

Agree 100%! I do need to keep on top of it more, so that it is more waxing than polishing.

I am currently using Lake Country purple foamed wool pads with the rotary, and they work great. I only have Lake Country foam pads for the DA (CCS and flat, various colors). They don't seem to cut enough, but I'm not sure the DA can spin a foamed wool pad adequately without stopping.

As far as compounds, I have Buff Magic, 3M rubbing compound, 3M Finesse It II, Aquabuff 2000, Marine 31 One Step Compound and Polish, and Meguires Oxidation Remover.
 
On one hand I agree with GSKR.

On the other, you might be able to get a Flex 3401 to bridge the gap between the rotary and the GG6..

The 3401 is what I am leaning towards, IF I decide it is worth it to get a new tool.
 
If the makita is giving you aches and pains for sure get something lighter. Aches and pains only get worse as you get older and 3-$400 bucks is well worth a future of less back pain.

You could try using the flex pe-14 rotary. It's super light or I really enjoyed using my boss 21 this year on the boat with megs mf cut and polish pads.

This is the biggest reason to me to upgrade. I'm about half finished with the boat I'm working on now (it's only a 22 foot). I'm going to suck it up and finish with what I have. If it kicks my butt, I think I will have the justification to buy a lighter tool. I'll also look at the mf cut and polish pads.

Nice boat, btw!
 
Thanks GSKR, this is what the "practical" side of me is saying. It's hard to justify several hundred dollars+ for a seldom used tool, especially if I can get good results with the GG. But I guess I still need to demonstrate that I can get acceptable results with the GG. Any recommendations on pads?
go with the thin foam thin pads for the cars.get 2 of each,2 cutting orange 2 yellow and 2 whites for final polishing.you may not use all but you will have them.for the boat cutting microfiber disk that I would buy like 8 to 10 of them and keep them clean and fluffed up between big sections.Hd speed for 14.99 is a no brainer and a small bottle of menzerna fg 400. Those 2 polishes can clean up pretty much anything without all the confusion of different products.on the foam pad supply that I mentioned is the minimum,but it will get you started and you can always order more.
 
The GG 6" is a good versital tool that with the he right pads will cut oxidation on a boat. Have you tried microfiber cutting pads with M105? I have flex 3401 and it is not a light machine and will,get you tired just like the Mikita

Ed
 
The 3401 is what I am leaning towards, IF I decide it is worth it to get a new tool.
The 3401 is not a tool you can just pickup and master, it's got plenty of power and people use it often,but with your situation looking for simplicity and not getting fatigued quickly I would think the 3401 wouldn't be a good fit for you.The way it's designed has a lot of resistance and tends to walk a lot .But this is what I find,and maybe not you.
 
This is the biggest reason to me to upgrade. I'm about half finished with the boat I'm working on now (it's only a 22 foot). I'm going to suck it up and finish with what I have. If it kicks my butt, I think I will have the justification to buy a lighter tool. I'll also look at the mf cut and polish pads.

Nice boat, btw!
Buy some carpro hydro 2 ,it's a water activated sealant that requires zero labor and will put some protection on the boat.Its not cheap but geos along way and can be used on cars as well.
 
Thanks guys, I'll be placing an order today for pads and other items to use with the DA. It sounds like the 3401 wouldn't really help with reducing fatigue, so I hope the GG is up to the task!
 
The newer machines are great for flat big run surfaces.But I find you don't save a substantial amount of time working on cars with a 21.The larger orbit can't get into tight areas
Totally agree.

A 12mm orbit is perfect, IMO. Still very versatile and can correct awesome. I have a WS12 polisher and I love everything about it. If it spun 500-700 OPM's faster at MAX speed, it would be golden!!
 
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