Polishing not going so well, need some advice...

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Hi guys,

So I've been detailing my own car, first time detailing, it's a HONDA CRV Nighthawkblack. I've run over the car with Megs UC + Orange LC pad, see to go well, bit of dusting, bit of sticky residue, but learning to manage them, but having trouble using HD POLISH.

The DA Polisher I'm using is a CONCOUR 900 polisher, no sure what RPM each number is, but having been getting advice from another detailer who has detailed a few HONDA Black vehicles.

https://www.zas.com.au/product/601/concours_900_dual_action_polisher.html

Using the DA + Orange LC pad, I apply 3x pea drops on the outter edge of the pad, work it into the paint, then up the speed to 3x for 3 passes (as recommended), went well.

Now with the polishing, I used HD POLISH with an LC White pad, I primed the pad (using QD as I don't have much HD Polish available), applied 3x pea drops to the out. Did the same as previously, but, it leaves residue easily on the paint that is very hard to remove with a MF towel, even using some QG to help. I try going over again with the polisher, helps list if a little, but not a lot. I have to use etra pressure from the MF towel to remove the residue, but can leave light swirls.

I switch to a Black LC polishing pad, but was just as pad (if not slightly worse)

I got to the point and juse decided to use the WHITE LC Polish pad + Megs UC, and that worked fine, the panels are shiny.. probably not as shiny is I used a specific polish, but it heaps better than before washing/correcting.


Any thoughts on what I did wrong? perhaps others have used HD polish with good/bad results, though from reading, many many people seem to praise HD, so maybe it was to do with me.


Ideas ?

I watched a 3 part video of Mike detailing a black car (with Wolfgang products?, Porter Cable DA & LC Pads), though his suggestions were different. He mentioned using speeds of 5-6 for Correcting, 3-4 for polishing and maybe 3 for waxing. He also did 4-6 passes (but also a lot more product.. unless excess product was just used mainly to prime the pad??)

Dual Action Orbital Polisher Guide: how to remove swirls, scratches, & oxidation with an orbital buffer. Porter Cable 7424, foam pads, backing plate,

(part 2 cut out, found part 3 on youtube)

Suggestions ?
 
Go to auto zone and get some ultimate polish. You have to prime the pad. 3 pea sized drops doesn't cut it on a fresh pad. Also don't work to long or do to big of a section
 
fightnews said:
Go to auto zone and get some ultimate polish. You have to prime the pad. 3 pea sized drops doesn't cut it on a fresh pad. Also don't work to long or do to big of a section
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Hey fightnews, I heard many people say Megs Ult Pol isn't all that great... thoughts?

Also, 'priming' the pad... does it have to be with the product? A read many people spray a lil' QD or water onto the pad to prime, which I like, as I feel as though priming with product, seems like a waste ??

Sections I try polishing are about 40-50cm (15 - 20"), but your right, maybe I should have used 5 pea drops ?

Question: How do I know when I've gotten the most out of the polish during a section? Should I stop once the polish has almost disappeared, or should there still be product haze on the panel?

I try moving slow too while polishing and stopping after 3x passes so I don't overwork.. then I saw Mike do almost 2x that many passes with great results... perhaps my technique need improvements ?
 
Meg's Ult Polish has worked great for me on a strawberry red Ford Edge, and my black Camaro. I say give it a shot, it's OTC and not expensive at all. It just might be what you need.
 
UP is highly regarded here. You asked for advice but dont seem to want to take it?
 
Mike Phillips explains and shows thoroughly how to prime a pad. That might be a good video to review. Some like to do it with a quick detail (QD) like product and some (like myself) prefer to use the product I'm working. While it may seem somewhat wasteful, you only do it to a fresh pad the first time you use it. Once it's primed you have the entire face of the pad working for you. Each subsequent panel you move to only gets a few small drops of product.

I have been using that concept for a few years now after seeing Mike visually explain it so well. I have also learned to grab a fresh, clean pad much more often because of the product and abraded paint saturating the pad but it has been the difference for me in cutting, buffing and polishing paint to perfection.

I believe the Meg's UC and UP are Super Micro Abrasive Tech (SMAT) products and, as such, aren't worked as long as Diminishing Abrasives (DAT) products. However, with my experience with Meg's 105 (also a SMAT), I do work it longer than 3 section passes. After priming the pad with 105 (or UC) I will work it for at least 4 passes and many times longer. Sometimes I sprtiz a little distilled water on the section and continue for another 2-4 passes. I do the same thing with Meg's 205 as well.

That's how I work SMAT products. It is different from how I work my favorite DAT products like Menzerna. With DATS I work them until they have fully broken down to their finest particle composition. that generally means a LOT more passes and almost invisible on the section or "flashed".

Mike Phillips preaches the benefits of knowing and using the best abrasive technology. There are differences in the products that we use and getting the most out of each one may involve different techniques.
 
No need to fully prime the face of the pad with HD Polish. 5 drops initially is plenty.
 
I agree with the UP to follow up with the UC.

Honda paint is pretty soft isn't it? The white pad with the UC is probably leaving a little compounding haze which the UP will remove and shine up the finish nicely.

On vehicles with soft paint, UP is my go-to product. A white LC Flat Pad and UP does wonders to soft Toyota paint and I've used the UC/UP duo to really revive a long-neglected Subaru as well, which traditionally also has very soft paint.

Agree on all counts the product is really easy to use and has a long working time. I will say that if you're looking at applying a coating, be very sure the panels are totally clean. The oils that make UP so great to work are a little harder to completly remove require a little more attention in the coating prep phase. If the LSP is to be a wax or sealant, standard polish removal process will easily get the surface clean enough for the LSP.
 
Thanks guys :).

dcjredline: Not rejecting the advice, just saying what I heard others say, that's it's performance was considered 'less' than other polishes in the price range, especially @ $36, just want to make sure before I jump in.

Paul A.: I started out priming the pad with product, then switched to QD as I felt I was still getting the same results, as long as the pad had lubrication, and I only had a limited amount of compound + no money to get more in case I ran out.

Do I prime only new pads ? or gotta prime pads that have been washed / dried too ?

I also only have 2x of each pad, so I try to make the most of the pad but clean more often (brush and MF cloth)

WRAPT C5Z06: I saw some video by 'HD' and he only lightly primed the pad with QD then applied 5x drops ... perhaps my pea size drops were too small and having only 3 was an issue ?

Desertnate said:
I agree with the UP to follow up with the UC.

Honda paint is pretty soft isn't it? The white pad with the UC is probably leaving a little compounding haze which the UP will remove and shine up the finish nicely.

On vehicles with soft paint, UP is my go-to product. A white LC Flat Pad and UP does wonders to soft Toyota paint and I've used the UC/UP duo to really revive a long-neglected Subaru as well, which traditionally also has very soft paint.

Agree on all counts the product is really easy to use and has a long working time. I will say that if you're looking at applying a coating, be very sure the panels are totally clean. The oils that make UP so great to work are a little harder to completly remove require a little more attention in the coating prep phase. If the LSP is to be a wax or sealant, standard polish removal process will easily get the surface clean enough for the LSP.
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Thanks Desertnate, much appreciate the info :)

Yep, the HONDA paints are very soft, but found the even using an Orange LC CCS pad left the panel shiny and not much (if anything) in the way of compound hazing. All my pads are LC CCS too, none of the flat type. Looking on LC website.. appears to be MANY varieties of Foam Pads... quite mind boggling tbh.

I'm going to be applying HD POXY (when the rain stops), though may apply to mums car down the track when I do hers. I don't have a pre-wax / coating type cleanser either, so may have to get something for that?

Thanks again guys, much appreciate any/all feedback :)
 
Widget said:
I'm going to be applying HD POXY (when the rain stops), though may apply to mums car down the track when I do hers. I don't have a pre-wax / coating type cleanser either, so may have to get something for that?
Click to expand...

If you are going to go with a traditional sealant like Poxy, I'd simply apply it after you're done polishing. Those additional products are only needed when preparing for coatings.
 
HD Polish is an excellent product and I've used it quite succesfully.

Don't prime the pad. I run at 5-6 (6) with all my different da's with HDP no dusting etc.

I typically use and orange pad. How many orange pads do you have? How much downward pressure are you using?

And as advised above, you can go right to Poxy after HDP. Let the Poxy fully cure for alteast 40+ minutes before removal.

Check this linkout, 370 Z I did a one step and Poxy , supposedly according to 3d HD polish + replaced Adapt.

https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...ssan-370-z-griots-g21-hd-adapt-7-hd-poxy.html
 
Yes, prime fresh pads, whether brand new out of the plastic or cleaned and dried. But only prime for the first time you use it.

EDIT: let me say I prime for first use but understand others may not and for different products or reasons.
 
Desertnate said:
If you are going to go with a traditional sealant like Poxy, I'd simply apply it after you're done polishing. Those additional products are only needed when preparing for coatings.
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Thanks Desertnate :), so just wipe off excess residue like normal, then proceed with POXY ?


custmsprty said:
HD Polish is an excellent product and I've used it quite succesfully.

Don't prime the pad. I run at 5-6 (6) with all my different da's with HDP no dusting etc.

I typically use and orange pad. How many orange pads do you have? How much downward pressure are you using?

And as advised above, you can go right to Poxy after HDP. Let the Poxy fully cure for alteast 40+ minutes before removal.
Click to expand...

Thanks custmsprty :). You don't have any issues running at 5-6 speed ? I'm rather hesitant as it feels fast and don't want to burn through the paint (like I did with wetsanding :/ )

I only have 2x Orange LC CCS pads, both used (and washed)

I also have 2x Yellow LC CCS __ 2x White LC CCS __ 2x Black LC CCS __ 2x Red LC CCS (unused but was going to use to apply the HD POXY)

With pressure, I apply just enough to support the machine and keep the pad flat. I have a black line on the backing plate, which still spins around fast. Same boat with the speed, hesitant to apply too much pressure in case heat build up.


Thanks Paul :). I always do, but just wasn't 100% sure... thought priming it was a 'breaking in the pad' thing :)


Thanks again :)
 
I always run at 5.5 to 6 when polishing / correcting. Especially with a machine like you have compared to a Griots G15 or Rupes 15. Nice, slow steady 2' x 2' passes and as you come to your last passes lighten up on the pressure.

You need more pads. I usually use atleast 4 orange pads on a mid size sedan, 6 on a larger vehicle (suv etc.) The pad heats up and that's where the dusting comes from. It gums up when you have too much polish then your pad breaks down and becomes abused and the foam cell structure breaks down. Having more pads will actually save you money on your pads over the long run and will give you much better results. Cleaning on the fly is only so effective.

With a da like yours, PC style you need to apply about 8-10lbs of downward pressure.

You really can't hurt the paint or burn through with the machine you have. You can place it in the palm of your hand with a pad on it and it won't tear your hand up so you're good to go on the paint.
 
Widget said:
. You don't have any issues running at 5-6 speed ? I'm rather hesitant as it feels fast and don't want to burn through the paint (like I did with wetsanding :/ )

:)
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In order to burn through the paint with a DA polisher, you have to be INCREDIBLY aggressive and even then usually only on a raised lip or seam. Unless the paint is extraordinarily thin for some reason.
 
I couldn't agree more with custmsprty! When I was solely using my Porter Cable DA years ago it was never less than speed 6 and slow, flat arm speed. Wax or sealant was applied at 3-4. I use a minimum of 6 pads on an average sedan for each product...maybe 4 pads for a final polish. I love having a s******d of clean, dry pads and grab them frequently. I want the pad and product to work and not pad, product, spent product, abraded paint, assorted dirt crap etc. I have definately noticed my pad life extended by not torturing the few i had. I remember a few adhesive issues with velcro backing that I am convinced were caused by over extending the working time of the pad and not cleaning it out enough between sections. Live and learn.

And, as Don just said, don't be afraid of spinning that puppy up! Try it on a test panel or a junk yard hood and you'll confirm to yourself that. Gives you confidence and imparts a comfort level.
 
This is a great example, these pads were brand new. This is three pads after doing half of a full size Chevy pick up. These were cleaned on the fly too. Eventually they get saturated and gummed up. Would you want that polishing your paint, no way.

You can never have too many pads :props:





 
Thanks guys :). Ill give it another shot, adding more polish and upping the speed.

Reason I only have 2 was low on cash and im a weekend warrior with no other income, so only grabbed the 2x when they were on special. Ill keep an eye out, maybe grab another 2x orange and 2x white :)

Regarding the actual pad type... why so many foam pads? should I stick with the CCS style or get 'Flat Pad' like above ?

Lake Country - Foam Pads
 
I prefer flat pads, LC or Buff and Shine. Adding too much polish will get you in trouble, it'll gum the pad up.
 
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