PA DETAILER
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- Mar 5, 2011
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Poorboys strip down wax stripper
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Mike@ShineStruck
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I'll go ahead and say placebo product, just like the others..
It'll most likely just leave a sufactant behind to mask the LSP properties..
Between high solvents, hi alkaline, , pH balanced,acid, and polish.. the only ones to strip away protection is polish and acid with enough wipe downs..that's it..I've even recently tried a ph14 product (Fbomb) with no dissolving going on.
It'll most likely just leave a sufactant behind to mask the LSP properties..
Between high solvents, hi alkaline, , pH balanced,acid, and polish.. the only ones to strip away protection is polish and acid with enough wipe downs..that's it..I've even recently tried a ph14 product (Fbomb) with no dissolving going on.
How do your MF towels get clean then?
I'm sure it does a fine job on old LSP's which is the only type of car I work on. Who strips freshly applied sealants/waxes anyways?
Sounds like it may a very good prep cleaner for a lot of things besides wax removal.
I'm sure it does a fine job on old LSP's which is the only type of car I work on. Who strips freshly applied sealants/waxes anyways?
Sounds like it may a very good prep cleaner for a lot of things besides wax removal.
Mike@ShineStruck
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Difference between bonded to paint and not bonded to fibers
But it won't dissolve wax
Easy test to perform if you wanted
But it won't dissolve wax
Easy test to perform if you wanted
DaveT435
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How do you like the Fbomb as a heavy duty cleaner? I see a lot of people speaking very highly about it.
Mike@ShineStruck
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I use it as a rim cleaner and I foam it to use as a pre soak...samendeal if I want to clean up compounding oils after a 1 step..
Works well mixed with Rinseless to do jambs and engine bay
Works well mixed with Rinseless to do jambs and engine bay
Mike@ShineStruck
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Other then that, I won't use it on cloth nor leather
I would think if it had surfactants like Chemical Guys BS Clean Slate product, your regular wash would clean those surfactants off?
If I had to guess it is a concentrated APC, degreaser or solvent that works on the paint while wet but before you wash it.
there's a big difference between a chunk of wax in a cup and a microscopically thin layer on your car, also it doesn't have to dissolve the wax it only has to break the bond to your car.
Mike@ShineStruck
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Yes big difference, but I don't use big chunks.. I don't even use thin slivers.. what I end up with is very tiny particles size of food pepper/salt.
And to put things in perspective, acid will dissolve sealant/wax in a cup easily... to accomplish same feet on. A panel, it needs at least 3 wipe downs....so takes more effort to strip on a panel then it does sitting in a cup
As for Fbomb, it's a slightly stronger APC.. also foams up
WRAPT C5Z06
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I agree.
Mike@ShineStruck
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No those are what's im carving it up to by using the serrations from a knife. Those thin lil dots arnt being dissolved by anything but acid
Ph nuetral, high solvents, nor high alkaline arnt breaking them down..
Wax will break down in a cup of acid easily..but takes more than a couple panel wipes with acid to strip an LSP
Loach
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I'll post this here as well, I had very good results in the first test. I applied Zymol Titanium 3 days ago on the paint (not polish prepped beforehand). Washed today with 1 oz per 1 gallon dilution of Adam's Strip Wash with little impact, strong beading and quick sheeting remained. Sprayed Poorboy's Strip Down when wet on half the hood, went over the area again with the same mitt and the beading was dead during the rinse. No etching marks where it made contact on the paint.
On my front bumper I've had McKee's 37 SiO2 Paint Coating for 7+ months, extremely strong performance remaining and I tried Strip Down on a section. The coating was significantly damaged in various areas, not full removal but permanently impacted. Very cool, more testing to come!
After Strip Down:
Rinse:
On top of McKee's SiO2 Paint Coating:
Damage:
Just tried it today on top of 2 weeks old Gyeon Prime and Gyeon One on the other test hood after first trying LA's Totally Awesome APC. LA's didn't do anything to Prime, had a few small patches of damage show up on One. After Strip Down both sections had larger patch areas of damage, One more than Prime. So it's significantly more effective than a strip wash soap at high dilution and at least more effective than LA's TA.
On my front bumper I've had McKee's 37 SiO2 Paint Coating for 7+ months, extremely strong performance remaining and I tried Strip Down on a section. The coating was significantly damaged in various areas, not full removal but permanently impacted. Very cool, more testing to come!
After Strip Down:
Rinse:
On top of McKee's SiO2 Paint Coating:
Damage:
Just tried it today on top of 2 weeks old Gyeon Prime and Gyeon One on the other test hood after first trying LA's Totally Awesome APC. LA's didn't do anything to Prime, had a few small patches of damage show up on One. After Strip Down both sections had larger patch areas of damage, One more than Prime. So it's significantly more effective than a strip wash soap at high dilution and at least more effective than LA's TA.
Mike@ShineStruck
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I'll buy some and donmy own testing..
I say give it the next morning and see if it still has lack of sheeting or if it'll bead/sheet again
I had meguiars wash plus+ do that
I say give it the next morning and see if it still has lack of sheeting or if it'll bead/sheet again
I had meguiars wash plus+ do that
My point is that a given chemical doesn't have to completely dissolve wax it only has break the bond enough to be wiped away.
Its been said 100x beading and sheeting is not an accurate indicator of being waxed. Glass will bead water too
Mike@ShineStruck
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Sheeting is the best visual we have
I agree with the beading though ..that all about contact degree
But obviously your statement also proves loaches results might not be accurate either...
My point with that post was give it more time as the surfactant hasn't been evaporated yet..which is why it didnt even sheet...it sheet later in the day
I agree with the beading though ..that all about contact degree
But obviously your statement also proves loaches results might not be accurate either...
My point with that post was give it more time as the surfactant hasn't been evaporated yet..which is why it didnt even sheet...it sheet later in the day
Similar result here. I used Meguiars Wash Plus+ on a car that had not been waxed since Fall, but had a coat of Hydro 2 put on 2 wks ago. It went from beading to sheeting after Wash Plus, then back to beading after Iron X and clay.