Pre Paint Sealant Question....

[BobWhite]

I have read here many times that prior to applying a paint sealant (Wolfgang Deep Gloss in this case), a paint prep is used, (N-914 in this case) to remove any residuals left on the vehicle.

My question being........ Does the prep process remove any of the gloss I achieved during my cut and polish steps? I used 3D HD products and got great results, but am wondering if the N-914 mix (1:8) will do anything to it.

 

[Loach]

In many cases, using the Rhopoint I’ve measured a decrease in the gloss readings after using an IPA or Eraser wipedown after polishing the paint with HD Polish+. I can pull out the N914 tomorrow and take some readings on the test panel, but even on some waxes I’ve measured a decrease in gloss readings applying them after the polishing step. At this point the highest measurements I’ve recorded was McKee’s 37 Jeweling Wax used directly after polishing without an in between IPA wipe, but there are many products I have that I haven’t recorded results for yet. None of this is noticeable to my eyes so even though the glossmeter can read a difference my perception can’t.

 

[BobWhite]

In many cases, using the Rhopoint I’ve measured a decrease in the gloss readings after using an IPA or Eraser wipedown after polishing the paint with HD Polish+. I can pull out the N914 tomorrow and take some readings on the test panel, but even on some waxes I’ve measured a decrease in gloss readings applying them after the polishing step. At this point the highest measurements I’ve recorded was McKee’s 37 Jeweling Wax used directly after polishing without an in between IPA wipe, but there are many products I have that I haven’t recorded results for yet. None of this is noticeable to my eyes so even though the glossmeter can read a difference my perception can’t.

Interesting, thanks.

Here’s another question to the same point.... Is a ISO/Erasor step a must before applying a sealant?

I’m totally old school (as in 30 years ago) in my detailing, so all of these current products are totally new to me. I’m like a little fish in a great big ocean at this point. My buffing skills are still there, but every step is a sort of guess, seeing what works and what doesn’t.

 

[Loach]

What I don’t know is the depreciation of the gloss levels after the first week on the paint or the first wash, I assume the loss is significant enough that I would not recommend forgoing the IPA wipedown as an attempt to maximize the gloss readings. For me, I can say that the IPA wipedown is a good idea to use because many times I can see it removing those residual oils giving me a cleaner looking finish with no oily holograms. How much of a difference on durability it would have on leaving those oils on the paint and then going with the sealant is too hard to test to any significant level because of how many different variables you deal with during a long term durability test. But I haven’t seen any noticeable performance differences in the short term whether I use IPA prior to applying the sealant or skip it. Also no difference with CQuartz UK as well in the short term.

 

[chet31]

It is my opinion that there is no need to use an IPA step between polishing and using a sealant. However, you do want to do a good job wiping down the panel and getting most of the polish residue off first (I use ONR, IPA is harder to work with). Any small amount of residue left will be overwhelmed by the sealant. If you miss a spot during your wipedown, since you're using a sealant (not a coating), it's easy to touch up an area.

 

[Loach]

After HD Polish+ with the rotary:

After Panel Wipe Dilution 1:8 N-914:

On average for this test a very slight increase in gloss, provides a clean wipe no residuals left behind.

 

[ChrisT]

Quite the measuring device.

 

[Jowillie]

It is my opinion that there is no need to use an IPA step between polishing and using a sealant. However, you do want to do a good job wiping down the panel and getting most of the polish residue off first (I use ONR, IPA is harder to work with). Any small amount of residue left will be overwhelmed by the sealant. If you miss a spot during your wipedown, since you're using a sealant (not a coating), it's easy to touch up an area.

Agreed.
Doesn't most sealant products have solvents that also remove whatever is on the paint anyway? Except, of course, for pure sealants.

 

[BobWhite]

After HD Polish+ with the rotary:

After Panel Wipe Dilution 1:8 N-914:

On average for this test a very slight increase in gloss, provides a clean wipe no residuals left behind.

That’s pretty cool. I actually changed the way I did the car.

I used the HD cut, but since I was going to use the Wolfgang High Gloss, I went ahead and used the WG total swirl and the WG final glaze. Then used the N-914 in a 2 oz N914/4 oz ISO/ 26 oz water mix. Which when used told me I left a bunch of polish on my deck lid (rest of car was pretty good) and finally the WG high gloss. I gotta say, the car looks incredible. The black metallic with a high gloss is off the charts!

I initially tried the 1:8 N-914 without the ISO, but it just gummed up the polish with that much product and no drying agent.

Thanks for the info and the help.

 

[yakky]

It really depends on the sealant. Some have built in cleaners, some have strong solvents, others are finicky about what they go on top of. You can use an oily polish like Megs 205 and use something like M21 without thinking twice. Then again I've had FK1000P fail after two weeks on top of a clayed and QD'd surface. The reality is that polishing makes a dusty mess. I usually re-wash with ONR but sometimes I just use isopropyl alcohol for a wipedown. Fancy prep solvents aren't really required.

 

[Duy]

What I don’t know is the depreciation of the gloss levels after the first week on the paint or the first wash, I assume the loss is significant enough that I would not recommend forgoing the IPA wipedown as an attempt to maximize the gloss readings. For me, I can say that the IPA wipedown is a good idea to use because many times I can see it removing those residual oils giving me a cleaner looking finish with no oily holograms. How much of a difference on durability it would have on leaving those oils on the paint and then going with the sealant is too hard to test to any significant level because of how many different variables you deal with during a long term durability test. But I haven’t seen any noticeable performance differences in the short term whether I use IPA prior to applying the sealant or skip it. Also no difference with CQuartz UK as well in the short term.

The last part with CQUK, so you have gone without using IPA wipedown or Eraser after correcting and applied the coating? How did it hold up? Performance, gloss? I was always instructed to remove all oils so that the coating can bond and cure appropriately.

 

[Loach]

The last part with CQUK, so you have gone without using IPA wipedown or Eraser after correcting and applied the coating? How did it hold up? Performance, gloss? I was always instructed to remove all oils so that the coating can bond and cure appropriately.

That's correct, I've also applied CQUK on top of fresh Pinnacle Souveran, weathered FK1000P (2 months), and fresh Glossworkz Glaze with no significant impact in the short term performance of CQUK (removed at 1 month to test other coatings). The Glossworkz test is still ongoing, I'm expecting to see this test car back over to me in January to record more results, testing side by side with Essence prep.

On the section of the paint that had been recently clayed but not polished in quite some time (slight oxidation), I did see a decrease in the performance in the short term. It's good practice to prep to the maximum prior to applying the coating because it's a limited use product with 30-50ml bottles, so I would still recommend a panel wipe after polishing even though I haven't had issues with oil interference in the short term myself.

 

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Quick Wipedown with Optimum Paint Prep, Gyeon Prep, or N914(1:8) and you're good to go.

 

[WillSports3]

If you're using a paint sealant, I would recommend a wipe down with something to remove the polishing oils. The reason is, the sealant requires bare paint to cross link with the paint to for it to have a full bonding and achieve maximum durability and protection. There's always exceptions to the rule like if you use the same product line you might be able to bypass that step.