Preparing surface for CQ or OC

Chris@Optimum said:
Richy, the 90/10 thing is from Carpro I think. I personally don't think 90% IPA is good on all finishes.


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I saw where Dr G recommends not using it on OC. I tried to edit my post but for some reason it looks like that option has been removed now. I was trying to clarify that the IPA stage is ONLY for CQuartz and not for Opti Coat.
 
richy said:
I saw where Dr G recommends not using it on OC. I tried to edit my post but for some reason it looks like that option has been removed now. I was trying to clarify that the IPA stage is ONLY for CQuartz and not for Opti Coat.
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Does CQuartz have some ability to fill any micro marring that may occur from the IPA step?

I just think Prep-Sol (Wax and Grease Remover) might be a smarter choice since it isn't as grabby as IPA.
 
Shiny Lil Detlr said:
Does CQuartz have some ability to fill any micro marring that may occur from the IPA step?

I just think Prep-Sol (Wax and Grease Remover) might be a smarter choice since it isn't as grabby as IPA.
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There are no filling qualities whatsoever. In fact, you should not use a glaze based or sealant based product prior to using. Just think of my analogy of taking a picture. That's what CQ is like, it will lock in exactly what the paint looks like, either faults or perfection.

I have never had any issues with the 90/10 mix causing any micro marring. People who deviated from this last step encountered problems with bonding. The paint must be squeaky clean. I know Avi is working on a product that will assist with this stage, but until that comes out, use the 90/10 mix. Use soft enough mf's and you should not have a problem. You will see the true condition of the paint without oils by using this mix. It is a good reality-checker, LOL.
 
richy said:
I have never had any issues with the 90/10 mix causing any micro marring. People who deviated from this last step encountered problems with bonding. The paint must be squeaky clean. I know Avi is working on a product that will assist with this stage, but until that comes out, use the 90/10 mix. Use soft enough mf's and you should not have a problem. You will see the true condition of the paint without oils by using this mix. It is a good reality-checker, LOL.
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I guess I don't understand why prepsol wouldn't work; it leaves paint just as "squeaky clean" as IPA.

As far as the IPA showing the true condition of the paint without oils (as does prepsol), that much is obvious :props:
 
Knock yourself out. I follow the instructions exactly and got amazing results. Try it your way. Just don't be pissed if you don't get the results you expected.


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Prepsol will do fine. The important thing is to apply it to a clean surface. Your means of getting it clean is completely up to you. If you do choose to use prepsol or IPA just make sure you go over it for a few passes and keep changing to new towels. I personally use Power Clean to do a wash then rinse, dry, then apply. It's much faster than the wipe down methods and I have never had a bonding issue to date.


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richy said:
Knock yourself out. I follow the instructions exactly and got amazing results. Try it your way. Just don't be pissed if you don't get the results you expected.


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richy, with all due respect, you don't need to be an ass. :nomore:

Chris@Optimum said:
Prepsol will do fine. The important thing is to apply it to a clean surface. Your means of getting it clean is completely up to you. If you do choose to use prepsol or IPA just make sure you go over it for a few passes and keep changing to new towels. I personally use Power Clean to do a wash then rinse, dry, then apply. It's much faster than the wipe down methods and I have never had a bonding issue to date.


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Thanks for confirming my thoughts, Chris. I might have to try the Power Clean wash method as well when I get around to applying this to my personal vehicles in the next few weeks. :props:
 
Shiny Lil Detlr said:
richy, with all due respect, you don't need to be an ass. :nomore:



Thanks for confirming my thoughts, Chris. I might have to try the Power Clean wash method as well when I get around to applying this to my personal vehicles in the next few weeks. :props:
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Richy has experience with both Optimum and Carpro products. He was just conveying a bulletproof plan that has work multiple times for him and he did the research on both products long before he actually used either. He is a really nice and knowledgable contributor and I don't think he meant to sound rude.

And you are certainly welcome for my help...glad to do it.

Chris



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Chris@Optimum said:
Richy has experience with both Optimum and Carpro products. He was just conveying a bulletproof plan that has work multiple times for him and he did the research on both products long before he actually used either. He is a really nice and knowledgable contributor and I don't think he meant to sound rude.

And you are certainly welcome for my help...glad to do it.

Chris



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Umm.... I promise my intent is not to stir the pot here, but I can't help but notice a disparity. I understand you're standing up in support of richy (which I understand as I am aware that he has used both product lines) but you're calling his described/prescribed method "bulletproof"? In another thread you made the following comment about the recommendation of 90/10 IPA:

Chris@Optimum said:
Can you use IPA? Certainly, but elsewhere someone has recommended a solution of 90% IPA mixed with 10% detergent. This, is much too high alcohol content to be used safely on all paints/plastics and that is why I do not recommend that mix.
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That, to me, certainly doesn't sound "bulletproof."

Sorry if anyone is offended by my comments or is upset that I'm pointing this out, but I think at this point there is a lack of clarity or an officially endorsed method for pre-cleaning being published/provided and people are getting overly defensive of "their own" thoughts and ideas (perhaps myself included.... though really all I was asking for was an exchange that would include a rationalization of what was right or wrong with my thinking).

In my estimation this is not productive and I would much prefer to see a real discussion of the pros and cons of different ideas discussed OR a definitive solution given that will be safe in a vast majority of circumstances. We've proven that this community is very much capable of such discussions in the past, and my hope is that we can prove it again on the topic of preparation for these coating products.

:dblthumb2:
 
Shiny Lil Detlr said:
Umm.... I promise my intent is not to stir the pot here, but I can't help but notice a disparity. I understand you're standing up in support of richy (which I understand as I am aware that he has used both product lines) but you're calling his described/prescribed method "bulletproof"? In another thread you made the following comment about the recommendation of 90/10 IPA:



That, to me, certainly doesn't sound "bulletproof."

Sorry if anyone is offended by my comments or is upset that I'm pointing this out, but I think at this point there is a lack of clarity or an officially endorsed method for pre-cleaning being published/provided and people are getting overly defensive of "their own" thoughts and ideas (perhaps myself included.... though really all I was asking for was an exchange that would include a rationalization of what was right or wrong with my thinking).

In my estimation this is not productive and I would much prefer to see a real discussion of the pros and cons of different ideas discussed OR a definitive solution given that will be safe in a vast majority of circumstances. We've proven that this community is very much capable of such discussions in the past, and my hope is that we can prove it again on the topic of preparation for these coating products.

:dblthumb2:
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Charlie, I wasn't trying to be an ass, as you put it. This was reminding me of a lengthy, multi-page discussion on CQ over on DB and many people were questioning the advice given on surface prep. One fellow was particularly convinced he knew better and followed his own advice. It did not bond properly for him. He was all upset and was trying to blame the product. It sounded to me like this was deja-vu, all over again to borrow a Yogi Berra quote. I just did not want to see you waste your time or money. I have used this product for months as well as a few different versions of it as I was one of several testers for it. So, I have a lot of experience with it. Now, things do change and if I hear of some change in the procedure, I will make sure it gets posted, as I'm sure the diligent folks at AG will do as well. I remember when OC first became available for sale, there was printed instructions (not by OC but by another reseller) that detailed how to put on a 2nd coat. I used these instructions and it turns out it was just a waste of product. That's why you will see the link I will provide for you in a moment.

What I suggested, Charlie, is exactly what Avi suggests as the proper way to apply it. I will direct you to step #5 from the manufacturer's website's user guide:
User Guide
This method works. Granted, I have less experience with OC than I do with CQ, but I have used a full syringe of the original so far and have another one in stock and will probably buy more too. I also have at least 5 bottles of CQ in stock right now as well. When AG has a kick-butt sale on everything with a good shipping deal to go along with it, I'll be stock piling even more.
Go to L2D and do a search for CQ and you will see a lot of info on it including several complete jobs where I have used it, as well as the OC.

Thanks Chris too BTW. Here is a guy who tirelessly answers questions on a whole range of products on many different forums including his own. I know he has given me lots of valuable info on OC and other products from that great line.
 
I've used a combination of Dawn, Power Clean & 93% Alcohol(straight) with Opti-Coat with great success. If the finish ain't naked after that then it ain't gonna be.
 
Shiny Lil Detlr said:
Umm.... I promise my intent is not to stir the pot here, but I can't help but notice a disparity. I understand you're standing up in support of richy (which I understand as I am aware that he has used both product lines) but you're calling his described/prescribed method "bulletproof"? In another thread you made the following comment about the recommendation of 90/10 IPA:



That, to me, certainly doesn't sound "bulletproof."

:dblthumb2:
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I'm sorry for adding to your confusion...I meant bulletproof for "him" as in, it has worked flawlessly for "him".
 
David Fermani said:
I've used a combination of Dawn, Power Clean & 93% Alcohol(straight) with Opti-Coat with great success. If the finish ain't naked after that then it ain't gonna be.
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Thank you. That has been my experience too, which is why I shared it.
 
Richy and David, thanks for sharing everything you guys have learned about coating prep with the rest of us. I'm finally going to use that CQ I've had sitting on the shelf. I almost did it for Detailfest! Hey btw: do you remember what the shelf life was of the unopened CQ?

Chris, thanks for all the info as well. Great move for Optimum to get their coating product available for the rest of us imo.
 
CEE DOG said:
Richy and David, thanks for sharing everything you guys have learned about coating prep with the rest of us. I'm finally going to use that CQ I've had sitting on the shelf. I almost did it for Detailfest! Hey btw: do you remember what the shelf life was of the unopened CQ?

Chris, thanks for all the info as well. Great move for Optimum to get their coating product available for the rest of us imo.
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At least a year. Maybe longer for unopened.
 
The 30 ml bottle is enough to do a standard sized car, glass and trim. When you first use it, like people tend to do with new products, you may use too much. You will get better at that with practice.
 
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