Product Recommendations

K

kenexcelon

New member
Joined
Oct 13, 2018
Messages
10
Reaction score
0
Hi everyone, new poster here. I've been reading up for some time now on polishers as I've never used one. Primarily, I will only be performing light paint correction and applying wax/sealant. I finally came across Mr. Phillip's post about what you need to get into polishing, which was very informative and helpful. :xyxthumbs:

I have decided on the Griot's 6" random orbital as that post and the recommendations of others make it a clear choice for a beginner. That and grab a 5" backing plate with 5.5" pads. Where I am still having difficulties at are choosing pads and product. I've read that certain products may work better for softer clearcoat, etc... So, I thought I would come here to get recommendations based on my vehicle.

I have probably researched this too much and have confused myself with all of the options. I do tend to overthink things in general anyway. For example, I was looking at the Lake Country CCS pads, but I read that the dimples keep the product from breaking down properly so I look at something else. Then, I could be also knocking something else just cause it might seem too simple. For anyone that knows me personally, it would not come as a surprise. :laughing: I didn't want to add another of this type of thread, but I was overwhelming myself trying to match everything, so here it is.

My vehicle is a 2017 Toyota Avalon with paint that is in good condition. I have washed and waxed it but have never done a true detail. I see some kits have compounds and a polish, but some other kits that have varying levels of polishes as far as for cut. I am unsure if the clear coat is softer or thinner than others, so I don't want to get anything too abrasive or mismatch anything that might put me in a bad position. I also would not want to use something that's harsher than I might need. It could be something as simple as the newer compounds react differently with the different pads and are safe enough, I just don't know. I have little doubt that my concern over this will save me a lot of grief down the road. I do have an older car that I don't care so much about that I can "learn" on, so that's a plus.

Given my vehicle and choice of tool, what combination of pads, compounds, and polishes would you all recommend? Or even a particular kit(s) to best suit my needs? I do have the understanding that I will need several of each pad type and that certain product goes with a particular pad (compound - cutting, polishing - polish, wax/sealant - finishing, etc...). I will probably stay within the brand of polish if possible for wax/sealant just to better match the products or results.

I do have plenty of clean microfiber towels, trim dressing (Adam's VRT), applicator pads (for hand application of wax), tire cleaner, wheel brushes, and plenty of car soap. I also just purchased a light duty clay bar and clay lube from Chemical Guys. If there are other items that are a must have, please let me know. Additionally, I really have no brand preference to speak of as I don't have enough experience with different products to have one.

I am hoping this post will help me narrow things down so I can confidently place an order that will be the best value for me. I don't mind to order from here at all, especially with the community support that I see here on the forum. Up next will be to try to get a good pressure washer and foam cannon, but I'm just starting looking into that.

Thank you all for reviewing and considering my inquiry. Apologies for the long-winded post, but I did try to break up the text for an easier read.

I hope to learn a lot on this journey from the community and make new e-friends! :dblthumb2:
 
You could go with a non diminishing abrasive liquid like Meguiar's Ultimate, or 3D One.

With 3D One you can effectively cut with a cutting pad, and polish with a polishing pad with the same liquid.

CCS pads work great with these type of liquids.

I like to use systems for synergistic compatibility, but a lot of times I'll end up protecting the paint with Duragloss products.

For instance, I will use 3D One for polishing, and follow with Duragloss Clear Coat Polish 111 (No abrasives in this product. It's a pure sealant).
 
First off, welcome to the AGO family!


I completely understand the head-spinning amount of info you are trying to absorb (been there).

Your post will generate many answers, most all of them great advice. dlc95 which posted above has incredible advice on pad/product combos, and even technique.

All that aside, if you want to start simple, and since you chose the Griot's 6 (awesome choice), you can go with the Griot's line of creams and color-coded pads to start.

Nice, easy way to get started with little to no guesswork. Then, you can tweak your pads/products/technique as you learn and try new products. :props:
 
dlc95 said:
You could go with a non diminishing abrasive liquid like Meguiar's Ultimate, or 3D One.

With 3D One you can effectively cut with a cutting pad, and polish with a polishing pad with the same liquid.

CCS pads work great with these type of liquids.

I like to use systems for synergistic compatibility, but a lot of times I'll end up protecting the paint with Duragloss products.

For instance, I will use 3D One for polishing, and follow with Duragloss Clear Coat Polish 111 (No abrasives in this product. It's a pure sealant).
Click to expand...

Thanks for the information dlc95. That looks like a good simple product so I will likely lean heavily towards that. Do you recommend any glazes (with no abrasives) to use before applying a sealant? May not be necessary, but I'd like to get as deep of a look as I can.

Thanks again!!!
 
kenexcelon said:
Thanks for the information dlc95. That looks like a good simple product so I will likely lean heavily towards that. Do you recommend any glazes (with no abrasives) to use before applying a sealant? May not be necessary, but I'd like to get as deep of a look as I can.

Thanks again!!!
Click to expand...
Don’t waste your money on a glaze.


Sent from my iPhone using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
kenexcelon said:
Thanks for the information dlc95. That looks like a good simple product so I will likely lean heavily towards that. Do you recommend any glazes (with no abrasives) to use before applying a sealant? May not be necessary, but I'd like to get as deep of a look as I can.

Thanks again!!!
Click to expand...

I'm with WRAPT on this one. With the way modern polishes finish, glaze isn't really needed.

Based on the success I've been having with 3D One, I'm going to try doing my jobs with just three priducts:

3D1 for cutting and polishing
Duragloss 501 for cleaner wax (All In One). 501 has pretty strong cleaners, super light abrasives, and very durable protection.
Duragloss 111 my dedicated sealant.

I'm also going to pick up 3D ACA 500 Compound, and 520 polish just to round out the extremes of cutting and finishing. The ACA (Alpha Ceramic Alumina) line shares the Alpha Ceramic Alumina Abrasives with 3D One. These liquids are unique in that they rely soley on mechanical means to abraded paint. No naptha, kerosene, or other elments designed to soften the paint chemically. These chemicals are intended to help the abrasives cut the paint. Personally this approach aligns with my philosophy on how I want to abrade paint.

I really like 3D Speed and Poxy, but their durability hasn't been proven out. From what I've read they won't compete with the Duragloss. I'll be testing Speed and Poxy this winter regardless, so I can see for myself.

I've used a lot of Meguiar's for over twenty years. The biggest reason for a more pointed switch is due to the excessive dusting from their heavy cutting compounds, and occasional trouble finishing with M205. They have just released M110, and M210 to address these issues. I'll definitely be trying them out, but I'm very confident that 3D will be permanent in my arsenal.

I also used a lot of Menzerna, but they're just way too hard for me to wipe off the paint. Very oily. They do work incredibly well though.

I do have the Rupes system too, with the Duetto/Mini, pads, polishes, and sealant. They're incredible, but again the problem is the damn dust. I'm just so very sick of excessive dust... If a compound is dusting away, It's not cutting paint.

Any how, you might like a simple pad set to go with your polish.

I'd consider a wool or microfiber for the heavy lifting, something for polishing, and something for sealant/ultra finishing.

With my Porter Cable 7424 I use Buff and Shine:
Orange/Black Microfiber - cutting
Green - cutting/polishing
Blue - Polishing
Black - Cleaner Wax
Red - Sealant

There are more modern offerings tgat also work great, but I ALWAYS go back to these.
 
Depending on the color of your car you may just need a good AIO product. I have great results with both HD Speed and McKee's 37 360 (my favorite). I agree with the keeping in the same line. For me 360 gives just enough polish and protection with a white or orange pad so I don't need much else. I have been topping with McKee's Hi-Def paint sealant for a little added protection. Don't invest heavily until you've tried a few samples so you don't throw away too much money. For pads again try a few before you go crazy. You're car's pretty new and sounds like you've taken good car of it. You shouldn't need a 30 step process to get it looking great.

I like Lake Country for pads, I like the flat options better than the CCS ones. I like the rounded edge on the flat ones but they both do a good job. I'm using a 20yr old Porter Cable and only really deal with very light correction.
 
MStarmer said:
Depending on the color of your car you may just need a good AIO product. I have great results with both HD Speed and McKee's 37 360 (my favorite). I agree with the keeping in the same line. For me 360 gives just enough polish and protection with a white or orange pad so I don't need much else. I have been topping with McKee's Hi-Def paint sealant for a little added protection. Don't invest heavily until you've tried a few samples so you don't throw away too much money. For pads again try a few before you go crazy. You're car's pretty new and sounds like you've taken good car of it. You shouldn't need a 30 step process to get it looking great.

I like Lake Country for pads, I like the flat options better than the CCS ones. I like the rounded edge on the flat ones but they both do a good job. I'm using a 20yr old Porter Cable and only really deal with very light correction.
Click to expand...

Just like MStarmer...I have been using McKee's 360 with the Lake Country flat pads as well as the Lake Country thin pro...still undecided which I prefer...and I too, have been topping the McKee's 360 with their HiDef Sealant. Been pretty happy with that combination so far. I also use Optimum Spray Wax about every 2nd washing. With regards to cleaning your pads after your session...the 360 stains your pads pretty bad. I have tried Mckee's pad cleaner, didn't seem to do much. So far I have been pretty pleased with Poor Boy's Tornado Pad Cleaner. It seems to cut through the best so far from those I have tried.
 
I had a 2015 Avalon siz Crimson mica and it mared and didn't like too many polishes but what worked for me was poor boys pro polish and white pad.
The pro polish has no abrasives in it just chemical but it did work very good.
 
New with a polisher and working on your own daily driver vehicle. Get an AIO that doesn't stain and learn how to use the machine. Don't mess with compounds until later. Just use a polishing pad and AIO.

I haven't tried the new 360. But I have the Black fire One Step and it's easily the best I've ever used. Top it with Sonax PNS and you have a winner.
 
MStarmer said:
Depending on the color of your car you may just need a good AIO product. I have great results with both HD Speed and McKee's 37 360 (my favorite). I agree with the keeping in the same line. For me 360 gives just enough polish and protection with a white or orange pad so I don't need much else. I have been topping with McKee's Hi-Def paint sealant for a little added protection. Don't invest heavily until you've tried a few samples so you don't throw away too much money. For pads again try a few before you go crazy. You're car's pretty new and sounds like you've taken good car of it. You shouldn't need a 30 step process to get it looking great.

I like Lake Country for pads, I like the flat options better than the CCS ones. I like the rounded edge on the flat ones but they both do a good job. I'm using a 20yr old Porter Cable and only really deal with very light correction.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback. That is one thing I forgot to mention in regards to the color. The color is celestial silver metallic. I haven't taken care of it lately like I should have, but personal circumstances hit and it has been outside sitting for a little while. Luckily the water still beads.

I'm making the assumption that as long as I take care of the paint that I won't have to buff or polish that often and be more of regular maintenance wash, light clay, and sealing (such as McKee's hd sealant as you do with a finishing pad) with the occasional need for light polish such as with the AIO or another light polish with a white or green pad. Green just to be a little safer than orange. I'm just not sure how often that can be done safely or how often claying is necessary. I will porbably pick up some Sio2 as well for the wheels due to it's ease of use. I don't mind to apply sealant there more often. Hopefully I'm finally thinking in the right direction here.

This does indeed seem like a fine option to start, might even be the best option since it's dead simple. I also like that it isn't a heavy abrasive so it should be a safer choice until my skills grow or more cutting power is needed. Maybe a few others may chime in, but so far a couple of awesome looking choices. That said, I am liking this one the best so far the more I read about it and seems to fit my situation perfectly.

I may also need a good wheel cleaner and iron remove that will work well on chromtec wheels.

I greatly appreciate everyone's replies & suggestions so far. You guys are helping me settle down choices from the mountain of options.

Thanks!
 
White and silver you can get away with a white pad and 360. I don't clay more than about once a year and even then it seems like there's just not that much stuff that sticks. I wouldn't over clay, but if you use 360 twice a year I think you'll find your car looks pretty great. You can use it on the wheels too.
 
MStarmer said:
White and silver you can get away with a white pad and 360. I don't clay more than about once a year and even then it seems like there's just not that much stuff that sticks. I wouldn't over clay, but if you use 360 twice a year I think you'll find your car looks pretty great. You can use it on the wheels too.
Click to expand...

Awesome. No worries with using it that often? Other than that, I’m ready to place an order I think.


Sent from my iPhone using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
Any compatibility issues with the Griot's 5" vented plate with Lake Country branded pads? I read here that the hook and loop might be slightly different and I'd like to get the vented 5" plate if possible. I also read the GG6 can get the pad a little bit warmer than the PC, so most seem to recommend the vented plate. I really like to do my research before pulling the trigger, but am just about there. :xyxthumbs:

Thanks again!
 
kenexcelon said:
Any compatibility issues with the Griot's 5" vented plate with Lake Country branded pads? I read here that the hook and loop might be slightly different and I'd like to get the vented 5" plate if possible. I also read the GG6 can get the pad a little bit warmer than the PC, so most seem to recommend the vented plate. I really like to do my research before pulling the trigger, but am just about there. :xyxthumbs:

Thanks again!
Click to expand...
Go with the vented plate. NO problem at all with any pads!
 
I just recently tried Optimum Hyper Polish, and I have to say, it's the easiest polish I have ever used. It cuts will with orange pads and polishes down well with white pads. Use as directed, and I think it will take car of most needs.

Then follow with one of the many awesome sealants (WGDGPS, McKees, Duragloss 501/111, etc), and you'll be good to go.

It's easy to get overwhelmed by all the options. I'd keep it simple.


Sent from my iPhone using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
I wanted to thank everyone for their input. I've ordered the GG 6" RO polisher with the 5.5" vented plate and some white pads along with 360. I also did grab some green pads as part of one of the package deals that I plan to give as a gift or keep for later. I also got some McKee's HD sealant. Now I have to get it cleaned up real nice and clean out my garage so I can do the work inside as the weather is cooling off here. I'm actually excited waiting on my order.

I do have on more question as to what I can do about the rubber trim between the exterior trim and window glass. As stated, lately I haven't taken care of it as I would normally as I have been down. It happens to the best of us, but the car has had to sit for a little while outside. Anyway, what would be a good cleaner to help clean the rubber before applying dressing? You can see darker spots in the rubber with the attached pic. In person it does not appear to be mildew, mold, rotting or anything like that, nor can you feel anything different. I just recently got the VRT dressing so I haven't even used it yet. I was thinking ahead of what I might need and ordered it before I discovered this site.

Now that I'm all healed up, it's time to get this thing back to looking great. Just a little work to get it back to the way I want it.

View attachment 65244
 
It's mostly oxidized rubber and maybe some old dressing residue left. A tire and rubber rejuvenate cleaner on a mf towel and rubb it till you get no black on the mf towel. And do wash it as useally after this and dry it and apply VRT. McKees 37 Tire and Rubber Rejuvenator or any rubber cleaner would do.
 
SWETM said:
It's mostly oxidized rubber and maybe some old dressing residue left. A tire and rubber rejuvenate cleaner on a mf towel and rubb it till you get no black on the mf towel. And do wash it as useally after this and dry it and apply VRT. McKees 37 Tire and Rubber Rejuvenator or any rubber cleaner would do.
Click to expand...

Thanks!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top