Question re rinseless or waterless wash...

Lexi65

New member
Joined
Nov 3, 2012
Messages
370
Reaction score
0
I continue to see youtube demos for these two wash methods...but they are ALWAYS done on pristinely clean vehicles.
I just would like to see how these two methods could actually NOT cause scratches, marring, etc. on cars that are even moderately dirty.

I see how it works beautifully on a car that is not only basically clean but also has an obvious just polished and waxed exterior.
Feed back please!

Thanks!!
 
We use the waterless method on 80% + of our auto clients and it works fine when used with common sense and/or training from myself or Tyson. Of course, if used improperly it will cause many issues on the paint. Those that use it on already cleaned vehicles are either selling the product or are trying to get their point across for the local clientele. I can say it is all about common sense + knowledge..... use the two bucket method on a muddied up vehicle and throw all common sense out the window. One will take an MF, bonnet, mit, whatever and will find a tiny rock and/or particle and wipe it all over a clear and think nothing of it - Wala, dumb move. Same goes with waterless..... trap a particle, debris, tiny hard substance between an MF, waterless product, and clear and/or single stage - of course it will marr the paint. Be smart and be careful with waterless, you will be fine. Just my 2 cents from 3 years of waterless washes :dunno:
 
when it comes to rinseless washes and legitimately dirty vehicles, i think pre-treating is a must (wash strength solution in a spray bottle), two buckets are a must and don't be afraid to change wash media often.

you can pre-treat with waterless wash too.

but yeah, common sense must rule.
 
Well my method is a bit different of course I live in the sticks where no ones drive way is paved and most people travel dirt roads not to mention mud riding and deer hunting in the woods.
What I do on very dirty cars is one of 2 things depending on how dirty it really is.
For dusty and semi dirty cars I just use foam cannon and pressure washer to get off as much as I can.
Then 2 bucket method and do the dirtiest parts last.

For extremely dirty ones I choose not to do rinseless. Simply because of fear of scratching.
I LOVE ONR! It has so many uses and I wouldn't go with out it.. clay lube, QD,great for door jambs, heck even windshield washer fluid if I have to.

Sent from my SCH-L710 using AG Online
 
Dirty black Titan
2fc761e2df5923b28b39445c537a663b.jpg


Sprayed liberally-Ultima WW
6babfad639de33622c3fc05b810a7a5f.jpg


Checked under Brinkmann (see holograms, requires some polish)
9883a70dec235a462a73f9b0ca588795.jpg


Dirty Honda
D7E60CDC-1013-4731-9359-BEF7A745A23C-874-00000079CEB4E91D_zpsab856266.jpg


Cleaned with BF waterless
6FA3CAC8-9920-477C-AA62-4F3F770AC143-874-00000079E0E1945C_zps975b1c27.jpg


9C147EF9-48E5-4EB2-8FF5-D89E82AB4814-874-00000079E6920088_zps4ef4f4d9.jpg
 
I opt to not use rinseless, no matter how great they say it is, unless the car only has a light dusting. Any real dirt is too great a risk for me.
 
This Audi is pretty dirty.... I know I would probably play it safe and just do a traditional wash. But from looking at the vid it appears to work fine.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-ShtSvQaSA]Waterless Washing HEAVY DIRT & ROAD GRIME - Chemical Guys ECOSMART Audi Q7 DIRTY - YouTube[/video]
 
Holy cow that. "s" pattern took Wayne too long to switch to a clean portion of towel imo. Not saying this stuff doesn't work but other manufacturers recommend up to 10 towels for an suv. And only light contamination

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX HD
 
There's actually more involved with waterless/rinseless washing, IMO. Not matter how careful you are, you're still at a much higher risk inducing swirls compared to a traditional wash. I wouldn't use a waterless/rinseless wash on a vehicle, even if there was only light dust, UNLESS I was polishing the car. Thereafter, I would only use the traditional wash method.
 
Check out our Facebook pics - EVERY single auto received a waterless wash as a prep to a full detail....... https://www.facebook.com/pages/B-B-Detailing/135827766453541?sk=photos_stream And there are no crazy nice lenses for the pics - all camera phones!

Yeah, that's fine if you're doing paint correction straight afterwards. But would you go waterless if you were just washing?

I know lots of people do, I just think it HAS to be riskier than a 2BM wash...
 
I have been doing rinseless on my new car for 6 months with no hose at all - not a single swirl. The car is never too dirty as I do it every 5 -7 days. The secret for me is 10 super plush 600 MF's and 2 gallons of rinseless - the towels go on sopping wet and no more than two panels per towel. Works perfect.
 
Rinseless washing is very hard for many folks to wrap their head around. If they understood the chemistry they would be shocked to discover its actually safer for their cars than conventional washing and foaming.

I really have to laugh out loud when I read on here that guys use rinseless washing during the winter when their cars are the filthiest....then they say "as soon as it gets warmer I will go back to conventional washing"

Makes no sense whatsoever.
 
If they understood the chemistry they would be shocked to discover its actually safer for their cars than conventional washing and foaming.
Explain how it's safer.

I will disagree 100%, especially if the car is soiled.
 
There's actually more involved with waterless/rinseless washing, IMO. Not matter how careful you are, you're still at a much higher risk inducing swirls compared to a traditional wash. I wouldn't use a waterless/rinseless wash on a vehicle, even if there was only light dust, UNLESS I was polishing the car. Thereafter, I would only use the traditional wash method.

:iagree: I'm with Mark on this one. Only traditional washes for me no matter how safe they say rinseless is I just wont do it. I still use rinseless products (ONR & DP Wash n Gloss) as a water conditioner for my traditional washes. Good to have extra lubricants in the wash water.
 
I love these discussions. For truth, I feel better with a standard wash, but I also feel that doing a rinseless correctly is just as safe.
 
i dunno i've been using ONR for a few years now. i was a die hard "traditional wash" guy until talking with Dr. G and hearing how the chemistry works for ONR and later, Opti-Clean. i think traditional washes are more thorough but not necessarily more safe. does anyone really think i'm jeopardizing my finish using the new tech stuff? i don't, and i'll tell you why.

i use both ONR and Opti-Clean, as prescribed, without hesitation. i have washed vehicles of my own and others countless times, both coated and non-coated, and have yet to see any marring from such. i dry my cars inside under the same lights i correct with and nothing shows up. when i first started using the new school technology i'd light up the sides with halogens here and there and same deal - no marring.

for rinseless washes, i will sometimes pre-rinse...i will also at times pre-treat lower panels and wheels with Opti-Clean or ONR wash dilution in a spray bottle...i will many times spray OID at 4:1 on the panel before i dry...but i have also done straight ONR and OOC washes just like the label dictates. no issues.

if you feel uncomfortable with pre-treating, using two buckets and changing wash media often...i don't know what to tell you. that process is a really easy way to break into rinseless and as you get used to it you'll see it works perfectly fine. hey, make the solution a little richer if that is what you want. pre-treat liberally. do whatever you need to do but don't blow off the technology. it works. i and others can assure you of that. you just have to do it right and be careful.

i like how traditional washing gets into the nooks and crannies of things and blasts/floats stuff away that rinseless washes can't...because there is a lack of water streams (unless you use a bottle to assist)...but that doesn't mean you can't use rinseless and waterless washes in-between and when the hard to reach places that require a stream of water get too dirty, then do a traditional. undercar, cleaning brake calipers with a brush, lug holes, windshield cowls, etc. these things sometimes need water streaming to be cleaned effectively. but i dunno, i see no issue whatsoever with any of these types of products, at least the stuff that Optimum puts out. i haven't used the others except the Turtle Rinse Free and it works like a hybrid of ONR and ONRWW which is obviously a plus in my book.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top