David Hayward
New member
- May 8, 2014
- 655
- 0
That could work but that's not going to happen in 1.5 hours I don't think for a full car.
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They vanish alright, along with your clear-coatI just did a quick correction (about 4 hours) on a patrol vehicle with 142,000 miles on the odometer. I did wash and clay (real clay) and the clay was black and brown with surface contaminants like I have never seen before. I tried to make the paint look presentable with the flex DA and was wasting a lot of time. I ended up going over the paint with Meg 105 and a yellow smart pad on a flex rotary followed with meg#9 and an orange pad with the rotary. I was not looking for perfection but meg 151 didn't show the results I was looking for. I'm pretty sure this is the first time since 2009 that the paint appeared smooth and shiny without a million swirls. It was also a black and tan color so the black would show mistakes. I think it would be difficult to do any type of correction in 90 minutes but an experienced detailer could definitely make the paint look better in that time. A rotary can get you in trouble very quickly but will get the job done way faster especially if removing noticeable scratches. A few quick passes and they vanish!
Mark
Most of these cars aren't that bad off, at all. Usually less than 30k miles. Maybe that's why he's able to get it done so fast? Not trying to insult anyone on here or what you do, I know you guys are used to taking this to another level.
This kind of work is called Buff and shine. It does piss me off when people call this kind of work paint correction. True paint correction takes hours and lots of training. Don't mean to be an ass but There is no way to any kind of true paint correction 1-3hrs ever.
If you're blowing over the car in a hour and a half, then more material is being removed then necessary...I see this ALL the time. Clients bring me their Mercedes' that they had detailed a few weeks earlier because the swirls have come back or are worse then before they took the car. I check each client's car prior to touching it, you would be SHOCKED by the amount of clear left after these "detailers" buffed the car. I would NEVER do production work, and try to sell it as high-end paint correction. I do every car like it's my car, would I blast over my car with a rotary in a hour, NO WAY!
Ok some of you guys were right. This guy is the worst detailer I've ever seen in my life. He started out actually doing a decent job, trying to show off. Now he's just awful. Puts on spray wax as he clays new cars, then uses the spray wax again, then puts on wax over that? But when he waxes a car he touches just a few areas with the wax on a DA, doesn't wait for it to dry and wipes it off. Its not a wipe on wipe off wax. Then with the used cars anymore he uses a glaze with a ton of fillers. Wipes it on by hand, just in a few areas, then it drys before he gets to it, then hell go over it with his 10 year old buffer pad to remove it, and calls that buffing? Then at the end hell take dirty old towels and wipe over the car for 20 minutes, putting scratches in the paint. I already told my boss I'm either not working with him anymore or finding another job. He has burnt the paint completely off the edges of a few cars. Doesn't tape anything off. And he uses our wash mitt on wheels. Its a struggle every day to not punch him.
On the other hand... I got a flex 3401 and love it. I think the menzerna fg400 finishes out well enough for our used cars. On customer pay I do 2500 and 4500 after. But I love the Flex. I dont always do small areas with 8 passes. I've been doing larger areas with 4-5 passes and its good enough for our used cars. Doesn't take long at all to do an entire car that way.
On the other hand... I got a flex 3401 and love it. I think the menzerna fg400 finishes out well enough for our used cars. On customer pay I do 2500 and 4500 after. But I love the Flex. I dont always do small areas with 8 passes. I've been doing larger areas with 4-5 passes and its good enough for our used cars. Doesn't take long at all to do an entire car that way.
I watched a Mike Phillips video this weekend, where he mentions on a one-step that often the best results will be with a Cleaner Wax and the softest pad you can get away with
I could see doing this in an hour and a half
I am a bit confused though, because I thought you would want to use the firmest pad you could get away with
I understand the objective is to not leave marring that would require an additional step, but iI wonder why you wouldn't go as firm as possible to remove the most defects possible, while still not leaving marring?
Hopefully MP will chime in
Perhaps a firmer pad would cause micro marring that the pad/cleaner wax combo can't deal with.