Recommendation for Yellow 1994 C4 Vette???

sportscarhiatus

sportscarhiatus

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I'm getting a client's/buddy's yellow vette. It's in excellent condition, only has about 30k miles. It has a ton of swirls, but that's about it. For those of you pros out there, and have worked on Vettes, what's your recommendation for products to use?

PC or Flex?
Menz SIP, IP, or 108? with orange CCS pad?
Menz 85RD or 106FF? or Megs 205?, via gray pad?
Glaze?
Sealant?
Nuba?

I'll post some pics of the paint condition when I get it tonight.
 
If it were me i would go 105 all the way and just change pads 3 times
do the kevin brown method them vetts have some hard paint.
 
Without seeing it, it's sort of hard to recommend but here goes. Do you actually have everything you've listed?

Should we presume that you have both a Porter Cable 7424 and the Flex 3401 dual action polisher? Both are quality machines and will work well for paint correction.

Stick with 5 1/2" Lake Country Flat Pads as they'll allow the Porter Cable 7424 polisher to work more efficiently. The Flex 3401 with handle these pads as well but you might have to carefully center the pad on its backing plate.

Menzerna Super Intensive Polish PO83Q is a nice polish with a good balance between cut and gloss. Use this with both Orange and White pad to tackle up to 2000 grit surface defects.

Menzerna Super Finish PO106FA will amaze you when used with a Gray and Blue pad. This polish tones down the cut while providing a super glossy finish.

Menzerna PO85RD is a very fine polish good for raising the level of gloss to the ultimate shine.

This is from the Autogeek Menzerna page.

MenzernaProducts-1.jpg



If the finish is nicely corrected then a glaze wont be required.

Sealants

Waxes


Coatings - Don't overlook these.

Apply these after finish polishing and according to their directions


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/39707-cquartz-3-5-month-update-vids.html
 
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Definitely use the Flex. I would go with the 105/205 combo then some 85RD.

But if you only have SIP, use that with the orange. Then some 106.

Do some test spots to see what works the best! And good luck because those Corvette clears are very hard!
 
I am definitely not a pro but do have a 2005 black Vette, used Megs microfiber correction system with tons of success. Had to put my 2 cents in. Have much respect for all that responded.
 
sportscarhiatus said:
I'm getting a client's/buddy's yellow vette. It's in excellent condition, only has about 30k miles. It has a ton of swirls, but that's about it. For those of you pros out there, and have worked on Vettes, what's your recommendation for products to use?

PC or Flex?
Menz SIP, IP, or 108? with orange CCS pad?
Menz 85RD or 106FF? or Megs 205?, via gray pad?
Glaze?
Sealant?
Nuba?

I'll post some pics of the paint condition when I get it tonight.
Click to expand...


Flex if you''re proficient with it, PC if that's more your comfort level. With enough time they can both do the job.

Modern Corvette Clear coats are quite hard, like a lot of GM vehicles and most modern clear coats. It's more the norm to find hard clear coats than soft just generally speaking.

I've used SIP with a foam cutting pad and PC on multiple Corvettes and it works well but it's not going to be as fast as a true compound.

M105 is a true compound while SIP is a Medium Polish, so pick your poison.

Finish out with either the 106FA or the M205, they both work well and I would give the edge to the Menzerna 106FA to finish out nicer. Depending upon your criteria for excellent, the Menzerna 106FA finishes out LSP ready on most paint systems. You can usually take the results to an even higher level with the PO85RD but if the car is a daily driver and the way the owner took care of it previously is the reason it has a ton of swirls, then remember to match your services to your customer.

It's always a shame to create a show car finish only to find the car filled with swirls again a few months later... So find a balance as to how far you go...


If it's a daily driver, or close to it stick to a sealant at least for your first LSP



:)
 
Guys thank you for all the feedback. Sorry if this is late, but I just got the car. It's sitting in the garage now, so I managed to take some "before" pics to assess the situation. I'll be working on this throughout the week, so I will have the car with no time pressure.

Let me try to answer the questions you all put forth.



Yes, I have all the items I listed in my first post, including Menz IP, SIP, and 83Q. I've been detailing for several years, and have a lot of the products. I am also very proficient with the PC and the Flex as well. I used to run my detailing business on the side a few years ago, and had to stop due to family duties. I'm now starting it back up again :props: So needless to say, I am very familiar with the products AG has, and more than likely I have the majority of products AG sells :) Yes, I am that much a fanatic. Been collecting and using over the years.

The car is not his daily driver. It's original paint, and seems to be in pretty good shape save for some scuffs on the bumper and hood... and of course the swirls.

Since I haven't had any luck with M105 in the past (though I do have it) because of its short work time, I would prefer not to use it...until absolutely necessary. So my plan of action, tentatively (until I do my test spot of course), is to do the following:

1) Flex, orange CCS pad, Menz Power Finish PO203 (then move to SIP, then to IP, if my test spot proves otherwise)

2) Flex, gray CCS pad, Menz PO106FA Super Finish

3) PC, blue CCS pad, CG EZ Creme

4) PC, red CCS pad, Menz Powerlock or Jetseal 109, can't decide

5) Dodo Supernatural.

What do you guys think?





By the way, here are the pics of my "canvas"

"just arrived"
DSC_0124.jpg


front driver fender"
DSC_0118.jpg

DSC_0123.jpg

DSC_0119.jpg


Hood
DSC_0114.jpg


The rest of the car is pretty similar.
 
any other feedback on condition of the paint now that I have posted pics?
 
For some reason I don't think Power Finish is going to be strong enough, this is based off a 2005 4Runner single stage that I just did a 1 step on. I started off with Power Finish on 5.5" LC Cyan HT pad and while it did remove most defects, it just wasn't cutting the way I wanted. I switched to M105 on Cyan and it was everything I was looking for in a 1 step. I know this is different than what you're working on but the Toyota paint was pretty hard and from several posts and talking with Corvette owners and Mike Phillips, Corvette clear is hard as a rock. However, at least give it a shot because you just never know.

Based off of my experience with working on a few Dodge vehicles with hard clear, I would try M105/Surbuf, M105/Cyan HT, M205/Tangerine HT. Who knows, maybe M105/Surbuf followed by SIP on Cyan or Tangerine will be the ticket? You have my interest in this project.
 
^ Thanks Richard.... yeah, I hope to get to it tonight after my league, but if I don't it will be tomorrow. I am curious too. I did hear that the vette clear is hard, but was hoping that with my Flex + orange pad + power finish, it should do the trick.... but......... (also, I might try IP too... in case you didn't notice, I love Menz stuff)

I will definitely keep you all posted on my progress, whether it be in this thread or another one.
 
Oh I forgot to add....

I just helped my buddy correct his 2007 C6 Vette, candy red in color. For that, I just used Power finish, flex/pc plus orange pad, and that seemed to do the trick. Is there a difference between the clear coat of 1994 versus 2007 and newer?!?!?!?!?!?!? Anyone else with Vette's can chime in? Scott (killrwheels) or 07-Zoh-6?????

Here is the pic of my buddies vette after buffing, came out really well, about 98% correction I would say.

DSC_1314.jpg


DSC_1315.jpg


and an HDR pic :)

MIKEVETTE3LITHIAMEETmod.jpg
 
I can attest, after doing many "test spot" areas with different 'tools of the trade', as it were, the clear-coat paint film is indeed quite hard on my 2007 Coupe!

The best way to find out the hardness of any vehicles paint's top-coat, is, IMHO, to also do one of those "test spots" before attempting/continuing a vehicle's paint correction.

BTW...I consider:
The "Best Way" is the "Mike Phillips Way". His tutorials regarding this subject, as well as many others, are outstanding....something worthwhile of my attention.:)

Bob
 
^ thanks Bob.

Yeah I'm surprised though at your comment about the 2007 vettes being hard. The vette I helped buff (maybe he will chime in here) was an 07, and all I used was my Flex/PC with orange ccs pad with power finish, and that did 98% correction. Finished down VERY nicely, then I did gray with 106FF.... hmmmmmmm I wonder if not all Vettes have hard clear? I found his vette VERY easy to work with.
 
sportscarhiatus said:
and an HDR pic :)

MIKEVETTE3LITHIAMEETmod.jpg
Click to expand...

Contradiction on my part, this picture is freaking sweet! OMG!!!


sportscarhiatus said:
^ thanks Bob.

Yeah I'm surprised though at your comment about the 2007 vettes being hard. The vette I helped buff (maybe he will chime in here) was an 07, and all I used was my Flex/PC with orange ccs pad with power finish, and that did 98% correction. Finished down VERY nicely, then I did gray with 106FF.... hmmmmmmm I wonder if not all Vettes have hard clear? I found his vette VERY easy to work with.
Click to expand...

Keep in mind that the 94 Vette most likely has more paint defects than the 07. This is where the test spots will be crucial. Who knows, maybe the same process will work on the 94 like it did on the 07?
 
sportscarhiatus said:
^ thanks Bob.

Yeah I'm surprised though at your comment about the 2007 vettes being hard. The vette I helped buff (maybe he will chime in here) was an 07, and all I used was my Flex/PC with orange ccs pad with power finish, and that did 98% correction. Finished down VERY nicely, then I did gray with 106FF.... hmmmmmmm I wonder if not all Vettes have hard clear? I found his vette VERY easy to work with.
Click to expand...

I was only referencing mine. :)

The paint being provided by a paint manufacturer being sprayed in the Bowling Green paint kitchens does vary...sometimes day to day, even during the day. As long as the paint meets the minumum requirements required by the engineers, it's a go! That goes for "metallics" as well as the "regulars" (mine is the "regular" Victory (Chili Pepper) Red...only one of about 50 or so shades of this GM Red...probably as many different paint recipes too!

Even though it's not as defect/blemish free as I had originally intended it to be (so much more FUN to drive it than watch it grow cob-webs); and, due to the upkeep I had wanted to attain and maintain over the last four years; I'd say that my 2007 now has areas on some panels that are not as 'hard' as they used to be. That's probably why a "test spot" should always be utilized, even if it's on the same vehicle at a later point in time, IMHO.

Let me add the correction you did on the Red Corvette in these pictures looks fantastic....wanna do mine? :)

Bob
 
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Thanks for the comments and help guys. Most definitely, this is the hardest clear coat I have ever corrected. After doing my test spot using various combinations. The only thing that I found to work was doing it twice....after a series of passes using the flex, orange pad, and either 105 or IP, it was about 75% corrected. I had to go over it again using the same combo to get around 95% correction. The rest of it was really really deep and would require something like wet sanding or a stronger compound and pad combo... both of which I wasn't going to do or had in my possession.

So for now, I will try to do it this route over the entire car before hitting it with a gray pad and 106FF or 85RD. I got the hood and passenger door done today.

Here are some pics of my progress... pardon the quality of the pics. I wish the flash on my camera was 1/2way over the uncorrected part too so you can see the swirls on the uncorrected side.... but you get the idea. I was having a hard time getting the camera to focus!!! :(

50/50

50-50vette.jpg


50-50vette2.jpg




Then fully corrected

100vette.jpg


100vette2.jpg



Am off to bed for now... I'm pooped :( My plan is to do the driver door then both rear quarters tomorrow using yellow pad.
 
That's a good start :). Personally I would hit it with a Surbuf instead of polishing 2 or 3 times and hoping it gets better. You will wear yourself out like this and that takes the fun out.
 
sportscarhiatus said:
The rest of it was really really deep and would require something like wet sanding or a stronger compound and pad combo... both of which I wasn't going to do or had in my possession.


.
Click to expand...
Like the Meg's MF system and a traditional DA. ;) It cuts better than anything I've used on the Flex 3401. JMO.
 
Thanks for input guys... but unfortunately, I do not have any surbuf on hand, nor do I have the Megs MF system. So I guess that means I am left to do my correction as I stated? going over it 2x over? :(
 
I did two C5's back to back weekends and the only difference was one was a stick and one a manual and I couldn’t tell you how the clears between the two were 180's. Both the same color, both had around 52k miles on them. One I had to compound the living daylights out of with Megs 105 and a LC foam purple foam/wool pad and the other I used my PC and Opti-Poliseal with an orange pad. Both had virtually the same amount of damage. It was the strangest thing. Just proves IMO GM is not very consistent in what it does for paint...even on their highest end vehicle.
 
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