Remove the glare from where you stare

Nice, respectively though you're a true salesman. A easier way and (doesn't require you spend any more money ) is to use some of your used rinse less wash on a mit and remove grime just like you do on the exterior. And then use use your go to glass cleaner with a dedicated ww, followed by a soft mf to buff. Save your money for a product that you NEED to buy from Auto geek.
Steve
 
Hey Mike, would using something like Ultimate Polish, followed by Invisible Glass work?
 
DogRescuer said:
Nice, respectively though you're a true salesman.
Click to expand...


I love this quote, I share it a lot...

"Nothing happens until someone sells something" - Arthur "Red" Motley



DogRescuer said:
A easier way and (doesn't require you spend any more money ) is to use some of your used rinse less wash on a mit and remove grime just like you do on the exterior. And then use use your go to glass cleaner with a dedicated ww, followed by a soft mf to buff.

Save your money for a product that you NEED to buy from Auto geek.

Steve
Click to expand...


And there you go.... when you have difficult to remove substances try Steve's method.


If that doesn't work, then come back to this article because what I wrote is true and accurate.


Specifically, the 4th paragraph down in the first post of this thread and even more specifically the portion I made bold red text. This is something a LIQUID like a glass cleaner or a rinseless wash simply won't do as well as a true polish.


Mike Phillips} [SIZE=3 said:
Sometimes you need a mechanical solution (no pun intended)[/SIZE]
I've come across difficult inside windows to clean in my lifetime and when I've exhausted normal spray-on glass cleaners I've switched over to polishes with great success. The idea being to use a glass polish to cut through the gunk on the glass and then wipe this residue off.


How it works?

The abrasives in the glass polish plus any chemical cleaners will cut through the film and mix the into the polish itself.

Then you wipe the whole mess off.

Next switch back over to your favorite spray-on glass cleaner to make the final wipes. While it can be awkward rubbing some type of applicator pad over the inside of your car's glass unless you're already a contortionist, with a little effort you can do it.
Click to expand...


You can use any brand of dedicated glass polish and even quality paint polishes.



:dblthumb2:
 
I never implied that what you said was neither the truth or accurate. Those of us out on the front lines need to watch our spending. All good advice.
 
:dunno:


DogRescuer said:
I never implied that what you said was neither the truth or accurate.

Those of us out on the front lines need to watch our spending. All good advice.
Click to expand...


Copy that Steve.


I think where we disagree is that a rinseless wash can do what a mechanical polish can do.



DogRescuer said:
A easier way and (doesn't require you spend any more money ) is to use some of your used rinse less wash on a mit and remove grime just like you do on the exterior.
Click to expand...


And I respectfully disagree that substituting a rinseless wash, (a liquid with ZERO abrasive or chemical cleaners), will do the same thing as a dedicated glass polish or paint polish to loosen and remove stubborn films that have built-up on the inside or outside of glass.

Been there done that for decades.


I agree a rinseless wash can and will work for some cleaning duties but what I described in my article was stubborn films.


Common problem
While writing a recent article about Griot's Fine Glass Polish I noticed the inside of my own glass had a film build-up. Over the years I've seen questions come up on our forum where people are having a difficult time removing really stubborn films and contamination off the INSIDE of their windows. Normally they tell a tale of how they've used every glass cleaner under the sun and every secret glass cleaning technique ever shared over the blogosphere.



Vinyl Fog
New cars have a lot of plastic and other freshly made man-made components and materials inside of them. These newly manufactured parts will tend to give off a chemical gas called outgassing as a natural process. This can also be accentuated when interiors become hot, for example parking outside in a parking lot in full sun with all the windows rolled up. The inside can become a sort of pressure cooker. The resulting outgassing deposits an oily film on the inside of the car. It's probably everywhere since it's not picky about where it attaches but it's only on the glass that you can see it.




I wrote this article from experience not to try to sell anyone. The article showcases the new Griot's glass polish as one of my jobs here at Autogeek is to write new product reviews and how-to articles. The Griot's Glass Polish is a NEW product. So I'm just doing my job.

The article does show how to think-outside-the-box because some people probably never think about using a mechanical polish on the inside of their car to remove stubborn films on glass. So it's marketing plus REAL how-to information.

One thing I've noticed over the years is people LIKE to find out about new products. Getting some practical hands-on how-to information on how to use them is also something people like.


So like I said Steve, for those that will read this article into the future, go ahead and try your recommendation of using a rinseless wash in place of a mechanical polish and if it doesn't work then a person can always try what I demonstrated with pictures will work in this article.



:cheers:
 
Don M said:
Hey Mike, would using something like Ultimate Polish, followed by Invisible Glass work?
Click to expand...


My guess is yes.

The Ultimate Polish is a fine cut paint polish but it should work to break up any stubborn films on the inside glass. Then wipe it all off as best as you can.

Most glass cleaners are about 10% alcohol and the alcohol will help to remove any oily film left over by the polishing oils in the polish.


:)
 
I understand your points they're all excellent. I am trying to let ALL the newbies like I was 5 years ago know that they don't have to go out and purchase any extra expensive items to get a certain job done. They most likely have items already in their arsenal, just slow down and put some thought into it.
Steve
 
So I just ordered this along with some of their regular polish for the more stubborn outside. Can the fine polish be used on the inside of the rear window? I'm curious if there would be an issue with the abrasives and the rear defroster grid?
 
Mike Phillips said:
Remove the glare from where you stare




Autogeeks_SCG.jpg




:)
Click to expand...

do you have a problem with rocks being kicked up by those wide tires and hitting the paint?
 
Mike Phillips said:
My guess is yes.

The Ultimate Polish is a fine cut paint polish but it should work to break up any stubborn films on the inside glass. Then wipe it all off as best as you can.

Most glass cleaners are about 10% alcohol and the alcohol will help to remove any oily film left over by the polishing oils in the polish.


:)
Click to expand...

Hey Mike, I tried it using Ult Compound instead of Ult Polish (thinking there would be fewer polishing oils) on a damp (wrung out) MF. The water seemed to do something to the oils, because there were no oily smears when I was done buffing off the Ult Compound residue. I followed this with Stoner's IG and a clean MF. So far (pending the proof of sunlight or other glare-producing light sources) I seemed to have gotten similar results ... which is good because the wife has me on lock down about buying anything new for the cars for the near future (her's needs $1,600 mechanical work, which has to come first ;) )
 
DogRescuer said:
I understand your points they're all excellent. I am trying to let ALL the newbies like I was 5 years ago know that they don't have to go out and purchase any extra expensive items to get a certain job done.

They most likely have items already in their arsenal, just slow down and put some thought into it.

Steve
Click to expand...


That's very pro-active of you. I guess you could do things like this for every post made on the forum?


:dunno:
 
jdubs said:
Can the fine polish be used on the inside of the rear window?

I'm curious if there would be an issue with the abrasives and the rear defroster grid?
Click to expand...

I would be very careful about getting "polish" residue next to the defroster grid.

First the polish residue could cause problems with the function of the defroster grid if you get enough lodge in and around it.

Second - Most, if not all glass polishes dry opaque, that is whitish. It's going to be hard or difficult to apply and then REMOVE 100% of the polish residue around a delicate electrical defroster grid. My guess is in an effort to remove 100% of all trace residues by doing lots of rubbing you could cause damage to the grid.


At this time, I don't know of an easy, no-mess way of working around rear window defroster grids. Perhaps in the future, car manufacturers will take this into consideration when they design such features ONTO glass.


:dunno:
 
Don M said:
I seemed to have gotten similar results ...
Click to expand...


If it works for you go for it.


Like I told DogRescuer, one of my jobs is writing reviews for NEW products. I guess I could write reviews for existing products but that's a full time job in and of itself.

I think if you look back far enough in the blogosphere you'll see I wrote article about polishing glass with Meguiar's #4 Heavy Cut Cleaner in the year 2005.

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forum...s-Polishing-deep-cleaning#81Ls4R2AKDboI2WY.97


The point I made back then was the abrasive technology used in the #4 was CHUNKY. It is this CHUNKY characteristic that enables the abrasives to CUT through the road film, water spots and any films on the inside of glass to remove it.

And again, UNLIKE ONLY USING A LIQUID SPRAY ON CONVENTIONAL GLASS CLEANER - a POLISH will not only cut through the really stubborn films but the films it cuts through will MIX into the polish residue where you will then wipe the whole mess off. As in getting everything off the glass.

THEN use a conventional spray on glass cleaner for the final cleaning.

The only issue I can see with Meguiar's Ultimate Compound is that UNLIKE the old #4 the abrasive technology in UC is NOT chunky. In fact this compound, like many compounds feels like a skin lotion, not an abrasive.

Sometimes newer isn't better.


Just sayin...


But if it works for you that's all that matters.


:)
 
fightnews said:
do you have a problem with rocks being kicked up by those wide tires and hitting the paint?
Click to expand...


Not really. The tires are Toyo street tires and this truck is a pavement pounder. I don't really drive on rocks or rocky roads and if and when I do it's very short lived.

So I don't have a problem with rock chips in the lower quarter panels due to sling from the tires.

Good question and I have seen this problem not just on trucks like mine but cars too.


:)
 
Mike Phillips said:
If it works for you go for it.


Like I told DogRescuer, one of my jobs is writing reviews for NEW products. I guess I could write reviews for existing products but that's a full time job in and of itself.

I think if you look back far enough in the blogosphere you'll see I wrote article about polishing glass with Meguiar's #4 Heavy Cut Cleaner in the year 2005.

Glass Polishing... deep cleaning


The point I made back then was the abrasive technology used in the #4 was CHUNKY. It is this CHUNKY characteristic that enables the abrasives to CUT through the road film, water spots and any films on the inside of glass to remove it.

And again, UNLIKE ONLY USING A LIQUID SPRAY ON CONVENTIONAL GLASS CLEANER - a POLISH will not only cut through the really stubborn films but the films it cuts through will MIX into the polish residue where you will then wipe the whole mess off. As in getting everything off the glass.

THEN use a conventional spray on glass cleaner for the final cleaning.

The only issue I can see with Meguiar's Ultimate Compound is that UNLIKE the old #4 the abrasive technology in UC is NOT chunky. In fact this compound, like many compounds feels like a skin lotion, not an abrasive.

Sometimes newer isn't better.


Just sayin...


But if it works for you that's all that matters.


:)
Click to expand...

I understand your position on reviewing NEW products, as most older products have been reviewed to death by a multitude of people and that you are reviewing a product for what it was meant to do, not for a purpose the original designer didn't foresee. Similar to DogRescuer, I wanted to see if anything in my current arsenal would work like the Griot's did for you. I know the UC isn't chunky like the old school stuff, but maybe the oils in it are able to dissolve instead of cut through the gunk, who knows. Would it work as good on water spot stained exterior glass? Maybe not.
 
To be honest I'm more impressed with your photography skills lol those are hard photos to capture
 
Zelfiris said:
To be honest I'm more impressed with your photography skills lol those are hard photos to capture
Click to expand...



Thank you. I agree. The photos you see are the photos that came out good, in other words they "work".


I don't remember how many photos I ended up deleting.


I started out as a detailer, turned writer, turned photographer. Of course Yancy would simply laugh at my "style", he's the true magician when it comes to photography and video.


:)
 
mitchoi said:
Can this process be used if there's a tint installed?
Click to expand...

I believe if there is a tint, the window will be easier to clean.

I use ONRWW in all the interiors except fabric. I soak an all-purpose MF towel in my ONR solution and wring it out as hard as i can. Then use that to clean interior windows, then i use a glass waffle weave towel to dry and buff. It works.
 
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