well, i just got around to trying out my new LC 4 3/4" flexible backing plate and LC 5.5" flat pads well on my celica the body is really curved on the doors and such, so i try to buff and no matter what i do its like the rotary wants to move along with the pad,
My guess is it's the curved or protruding portion of the panel causing the characteristic you describe as you'll end up getting more pressure to one section of the face of your pad than the others.
For others reading this into the future...
Flexible Backing Plates for Rotary Buffers
Trends: Flexible Backing Plates
Here's a picture of the three flexible backing plates of which at this time we have the to larger versions in stock.
On Autogeek.net
3" Flexible Backing Plate - Not in stock yet
5" Flexible Backing Plate
7" Flexible Backing Plate - Link to be added today
Meguiars Solo Easy Buff W66 Rotary Backing Plate 6 Inch
i tried less pressure,more pressure,pad is primed, not too much product, not too little product, centered best as possible. yet when i go to my roof which is alot more flat the pads are a DREAM to use compared to the 9" pads,
Smaller pads on any tool make the tool more user-friendly, especially a rotary buffer.
Again, for people reading this into the future...
Trend: Backing Plate Extensions for Surgical Precision Buffing
The adapter acts as an extension which allows me to better see where the pads touching the paint as I buff and also works sometimes to give you enough clearance to buff into tight areas.
i just need some tips on working with curved panels. the only way they don't hop around is if i tilt on edge and i do not want to get in the habit of doing that unless necessary.
One of the things I practice is to always buff flat whenever I can buff flat. If the panel is shaped in a way that you cannot buff with the pad flat to the surface then you have no other option to go up on edge or switch to an even smaller pad.
Trend: Small buffing pads
Here's some techniques I use...
Hold the rotary buffer
close to your chest with your shoulder, arms and back muscles tightened, not loosey-goosey like I've seen recommended over the years. You want to have control over the buffer you don't want the buffer to have control over you.
I demonstrate this in all my classes by having someone hold a rotary buffer in their hands with their arms extended outward from their body. Then I tell them to try to hold it still in one place while at the same time grabbing it and moving it wherever I want. The point is the further away from your body you hold the rotary buffer the less leverage or control you have over the tool and the more control or leverage the tool has over you.
Then I have them hold the rotary buffer close to their chest and tighten up their arms and ask them to hold it still in one place. Next I grab it with my hand and try to move it around and it's very difficult because they have mover leverage over the tool than I do.
Kind of a simple analogy but it works. The more intricate the area you're buffing, the closer you and the buffer should be to the paint.
IMPORTANT
For the above reasons to hold the rotary buffer closer to you, it's really important that you never wear any loose jewelery, necklace, tie or even loose clothing because you don't want any of these items getting caught into the rotating pad. Not a good or fun experience.
This is a real simple one but it's also very true...
Clean your pad often or switch to a clean, dry pad
It's so easy to prove to yourself how much of a factor a clean pad is when using a rotary buffer or any tool. Simply buff till your pad is well broken in and wet with product and then lock into your memory how it feels to buff with that pad.
Now replace the used pad with a clean dry pad and buff in the same way and take note as to how much easier and better the buffing experience is.
Hope the above helps a little...
