Review and Extreme Testing: Opti-Coat 2.0 and CQuartz

Thanks for the update Corey - You do a fantastic job of following up your reviews with updates at regular intervals.
 
BobbyG said:
Hey Corey,

Nice update to this thread! :props:

Is it my imagination or does the Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 sheet much quicker than the Car Pro: CQuartz?

Both are really nice products.

Thanks allot Corey for all the testing and reporting here on Autogeek Forum! :props:
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot Bobby! I appreciate that. :) You are correct. I found the water to sheet faster for OC on the vertical panels.

LegacyGT said:
Thanks for the update Corey - You do a fantastic job of following up your reviews with updates at regular intervals.
Click to expand...

Thanks Bill!! I try! :)
 
Not to hijack your thread CEE DOG,

But I have been very impressed with Opti-Coat 2.0. When I had BFWD sealant the car would pick up a lot of dust because I live in a very windy area and the dust shows very easily on black paint.

With Opti-Coat, today I drove my car to the gas station and was amazed! All the dust just comes off after I drive and the car literally looked like it had just been washed. Very impressed so far. :props:
 
Hey cee,
Great looking product. I have a question tho. I just purchases a car and when i started looking into a nano coating type product. I first tried aquartz as it looks nearly fool proof but now that I've seem your video.. I was wondering if I can add opticoat on top or would I need to go back down to bare again?
 
macboi said:
Hey cee,
Great looking product. I have a question tho. I just purchases a car and when i started looking into a nano coating type product. I first tried aquartz as it looks nearly fool proof but now that I've seem your video.. I was wondering if I can add opticoat on top or would I need to go back down to bare again?
Click to expand...
Back to bare
 
macboi said:
Hey cee,
Great looking product. I have a question tho. I just purchases a car and when i started looking into a nano coating type product. I first tried aquartz as it looks nearly fool proof but now that I've seem your video.. I was wondering if I can add opticoat on top or would I need to go back down to bare again?
Click to expand...

Like Doug said: Optimum says you must have a bare surface on the paint before applying Opti-coat.
 
Edit: oops! I meant to post this in Wills thread to answer his question. I was just copying the application video for him.

The first time I used OC I applied it similar to how the AG description still directs today but I learned from Chris that you could apply it similar to a wowa sealant. It's not at all the same because the stakes are higher and you need to make sure it flashes. It's more important that you pay close attention when applying OC. What I mean by wowa is you buff it in, not just wipe it on like some people talk about. You want even coverage which if applied in straight lines (even if you don't see any high spots) I believe there will be invisible ridges on some level. If you were to park outside at night and get condensation then you would be able to see if you had these invisible ridges... Not that they matter if they are invisible I guess. Lol

Here's a video from this thread: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...extreme-testing-opti-coat-2-0-cquartz-12.html

CEE DOG said:
Additional Videos: Opti-Coat 2.0 and Ceramic Quartz

Here is some additional media.

Optimum: Opti-Coat 2.0

The first video shows application of Opti-Coat 2.0. Note the speed at which the product flashes is dependant on the temperature and humidity in my experience. The application to the taillight took place on a separate occasion but was spliced together in this video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-a4637xYAag
Click to expand...
 
Corey, l see you are you are using a foam applicator. I thought I remembered Chris talking about using this same method of application using a MF pad to help level any high spots.Have you ever tried applying it this way?
 
pfix said:
Corey, l see you are you are using a foam applicator. I thought I remembered Chris talking about using this same method of application using a MF pad to help level any high spots.Have you ever tried applying it this way?
Click to expand...
I saw him mention that as well. I haven't tried the mf applicator with OC allthough that is what I always use with Optimum and Ultima WOWA polymer sealants. It seems to me it could work well allthough I feel like the OC is a bit sticky for mf. I haven't tried it so really my opinion on using the mf applicator for OC probably isn't valid. I have had great success with the foam applicator to apply and then if I do ever have a little high spot that doesn't buff off I flip the applicator to the dry side and tap the spot to flash it. This works great on cars but on motorcyles (lots of corners) I found when I worked on Adams bike that I use an mf towel because of the intricate corners and details (lack of wide open panels liek a car) Come to think of it the mf applicator might have been a fine idea to try on that bike.
 
The description says, allow sufficient time for 1st layer to cure before 2nd layer!! Whats the minimum time I can wait before putting on a 2nd coat?

If I do customer cars with it, I want max protection but they cant wait for like 12-24 hrs in between coats!!
 
sohail99 said:
The description says, allow sufficient time for 1st layer to cure before 2nd layer!! Whats the minimum time I can wait before putting on a 2nd coat?

If I do customer cars with it, I want max protection but they cant wait for like 12-24 hrs in between coats!!
Click to expand...


Wait a minimum of 1 hour :dblthumb2:
 
CEE DOG,

Not entirely on topic, but related to your review procedures, what's the brand and model of your temp/hygrometer shown in the pictures? Link, if possible?

Thanks!
 
clintb said:
CEE DOG,

Not entirely on topic, but related to your review procedures, what's the brand and model of your temp/hygrometer shown in the pictures? Link, if possible?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Clint, I'm sorry, I've had a lot of people ask me that but one of the few things I didn't purchase from Amazon. I got it from a local cigar shop for a little under 30$ and it didn't have a brand name on it. Sorry I couldn't help :(
 
CEE DOG said:
Clint, I'm sorry, I've had a lot of people ask me that but one of the few things I didn't purchase from Amazon. I got it from a local cigar shop for a little under 30$ and it didn't have a brand name on it. Sorry I couldn't help :(
Click to expand...
A bit of Googling and sleuthing turned up the "Little Havana Hygrometer". :)
 
I was just coating my HL lenses with CQ and I noticed that it stopped coming out of the bottle!

I thought I had finished it already, but on inspection I found out that it crystallized and kinda turned into a jelly in the bottle itself!!! :eek:

The bottle was nearly full. Its loads of CQ wasted!!! Here are a few pics of the jelly thing I managed to get out of the bottle!

ABCD00202.JPG


ABCD00182.JPG


Sucks that I used only 1/3rd of it and rest all turned to jelly with a few crystals! :awman:

I always kept it in its silver packing and always shut the cap tight after using it!
 
That sucks man... same thing happened to me.

Was all ready to do a Cquartz session and when i went to apply to the applicator, it was like i had an empty bottle ... there were literally drops left. When I inspected the bottle closely, it was just about all solid in the bottle. Weird because this was an unused bottle which was stored in a cool dark place for about a month.

I'd better go check on my OptiCoat syringe just in case.
 
Hmm that actually sounds good once its actually on the paint.
 
Damnit!!! Just checked my new bottle of Cquartz I ordered via AG!

Its half crystallized in the bottle already!!! And its still sealed!!! WTH is happening!? :'(
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top