Review: CarPro CeriGlass

[FUNX650]

I may have mixed up my oxides and my chromates, but since chromium oxide is green I don't think that heat tint on your stainless pipes (or the whitish passive layer from environmental exposure) is Cr3O2.


No way, we don't make anything here in NJ anymore except "financial industry" employees...they stamp THEM out by the hundreds.

-Like you I may have my oxides and chromates mixed up....
But I thought the passivation layer on SS was chromium (III) oxide---Cr2O3....and I believe that's the same chromium oxide in green rouge. I may be wrong, though. Be interesting to really find out for sure!
-And I've noticed more white passivation occurring on bare/polished aluminum (being that it's of an aluminum oxide nature) than SS.


-Sorry about your State's "state of affairs"...Same thing goes for a lot things here in Ohio as well. BTW...Didn't say Caswell Inc manufactured the wheel buff...Just said that's where my source, sources them.



Bob

 

[Setec Astronomy]

But I thought the passivation layer on SS was chromium (III) oxide---Cr2O3....and I believe that's the same chromium oxide in green rouge. I may be wrong, though. Be interesting to really find out for sure!
-And I've noticed more white passivation occurring on bare/polished aluminum (being that it's of an aluminum oxide nature) than SS.

BTW...Didn't say Caswell Inc manufactured the wheel buff...Just said that's where my source, sources them.

Well, Cr2O3 is definitely green, but I'm not sure the passive layer is the same stuff although #### says it is...of course the passive layer is only a few molecules thick, so maybe it IS green we just can't see it. That white stuff on your alumimum is more likely a corrosion salt, you only get that oxide layer if you keep it dry.

Oh and Caswell seems to be in NY...they have a lot of stuff!

 

[tw33k2514]

Corey, excellent review as always.


This is one of those products that I would call a game changer. And I cannot wait to get some time with it!

 

[FUNX650]

Well, Cr2O3 is definitely green, but I'm not sure the passive layer is the same stuff although #### says it is...of course the passive layer is only a few molecules thick, so maybe it IS green we just can't see it. That white stuff on your alumimum is more likely a corrosion salt, you only get that oxide layer if you keep it dry.

Oh and Caswell seems to be in NY...they have a lot of stuff!

OK. Fair enough.

One reason I even brought up, or mentioned, any of this SS stuff:

-If CeriGlass has the ability to "cut" glass in any perceptual amount, such as removing/reducing scratches, I was curious what will it do to metals when it's used as a polishing agent...How much "cut" it would have on metals.
-Right now there's been no info given on CeriGlass' cerium oxide abrasives grit size. CeriGlass' "cutting abilty" on metals, then, may be "mild enough/strong enough" for different metal polishing tasks.
-But....Conversely...Couldn't some metal polishes be used as glass polishes?

Hopefully Avi/Corey will chime in and address this issue.....I'm a little hesitant at the moment, and just considering, CeriGlass' potential uses.

@ Corey: Hope you don't take this as a hi-jack....To Me: It seems pertinent....Sincere apology, if it is deemed otherwise.




Bob

 

[CEE DOG]

Bob, nothing could make me happier than some great discussion within my review. Thank you so much for all your thought provoking analysis and everything you add. I'm not sure I read everything good enough to follow but my hope is ceriglass will cut metal easier than metal polishes themselves. I'm hoping I can polish my exhaust tips by hand with it. I'll read through everything again when I have more time and respond to the rest.

I will quickly say I wouldn't think metal polishes would be able to cut glass but I could be wrong... Otherwise why wouldn't jewelers use metal polish to do so? Instead they use cerium oxide to polish quartz if I'm not mistaken.

I can say one thing though... If anyone has a car that won't mind having it's windshield polished with metal polish it's that green monstrosity of mine

 

[FUNX650]

Bob, nothing could make me happier than some great discussion within my review. Thank you so much for all your thought provoking analysis and everything you add. I'm not sure I read everything good enough to follow but my hope is ceriglass will cut metal easier than metal polishes themselves. I'm hoping I can polish my exhaust tips by hand with it. I'll read through everything again when I have more time and respond to the rest.

I will quickly say I wouldn't think metal polishes would be able to cut glass but I could be wrong... Otherwise why wouldn't jewelers use metal polish to do so? Instead they use cerium oxide to polish quartz if I'm not mistaken.

I can say one thing though... If anyone has a car that won't mind having it's windshield polished with metal polish it's that green monstrosity of mine

Corey...Thank you for your kind words.

You stating that you want to polish your exhaust tips (are they SS on your Sky?) just got me thinking a bit, that's all.

After re-reading through your review's postings, I'm sure you'll pick up on my thoughts about using any cerium oxide polishing product on metals, especially without knowing the % of, and grit size (in microns) of the abrasives contained therein.

Jewelers do use a variety of "rouges", from cerium oxides clear down to the finest of rouges...red jewelers rouge. Some of these rouges are also used in metal polishing....perhaps at a lower grade---especially red jewelers rouge.

I'm therorizing only: If CeriGlass can be used to polish metals; then, could metal polishing rouges containing similar, or comparable, abrasive % and grit sizes as CeriGlass, be used in glass polishing.

Bottom Line:
I do have concerns (scratches, mainly) regarding you polishing your exhaust tips with CeriGlass or any other cerium oxide products. But...IMO...That's what discussion forums are about. That, and there's always other "rouges" to cure all that's not well.



Bob

 

[IOMCAMARO]

The glass guys that do windows around my town use a form of jewelers rouge to polish glass all the time. That is the only thing that they recommended to me when I asked about removing pits. They said don't go much above the red as it can cause distortion on some glasses. They said that sometimes if the glass is harder they will go up a little in aggressiveness, but not too much higher.

 

[FUNX650]

The glass guys that do windows around my town use a form of jewelers rouge to polish glass all the time. That is the only thing that they recommended to me when I asked about removing pits. They said don't go much above the red as it can cause distortion on some glasses. They said that sometimes if the glass is harder they will go up a little in aggressiveness, but not too much higher.

Are you talking about vehicles' window glass (mostly tempered), vehicles' windshield window glass (laminated), or windows in homes/office buildings [(more and more are becoming tempered...costs more, (the same reason some are not)]?

Either way...Sounds like they gave you some good advice...least aggressive first.




Bob

 

[IOMCAMARO]

Are you talking about vehicles' window glass (mostly tempered), vehicles' windshield window glass (laminated), or windows in homes/office buildings [(more and more are becoming tempered...costs more, (the same reason some are not)]?

Either way...Sounds like they gave you some good advice...least aggressive first.




Bob

They actually do both. They do more car windshields than anything though. I was gonna have mine replaced until they told me to look into the rouge first. They said that it might help enough that it wouldn't bug me.

 

[FUNX650]

They actually do both. They do more car windshields than anything though. I was gonna have mine replaced until they told me to look into the rouge first. They said that it might help enough that it wouldn't bug me.

Some of the polishing results these kind of guys get are fantastic....they are like artists, so to speak.

No! Don't say your Camaro's windshield is damaged...



Bob

 

[IOMCAMARO]

Unfortunately after driving it for the past 2 years during the winter, the glass has pits everywhere. I am hoping to try to remove them somewhat. They bug me when the sun hits the glass.

 

[Dr Oldz]

Great job Corey!

 

[DARK HORSE]

Corey, another absolute masterpiece! Just incredible! Thanks for all the time you spend doing these incredible reviews! You know what General Patton would say..

 

[CEE DOG]

Thanks to everyone for all the comments, questions, and feedback!! I can't get to all of it now (just page 1) but will reply to questions on the rest of the pages after work today.

Nice review Corey, of a product that a lot of people have been waiting for! I like the 50:50 shots - I think it's the first time I've ever seen a 50:50 on glass One question - do you think this could work with MF pads?

Thank you!! I think it depends on how much pressure you are able to apply as well. I haven't used mf pads (still waiting on optimum) so rather than BS you I will admit I don't know.

Corey thank you very much for all of your hard work here :xyxthumbs:
It is awesome that something so affordable can work so well.

I wanted to note that AG also has the Griot's glass polishing pads that are larger at 6" that may be helpful if using a larger backing plate.

I also wonder if the Lake Country Purple Foamed wool pads would be a good choice for applying the CeriGlass?

Thank you my friend! I appreciate that! I think the purple foamed wool work work excellent for it but I haven't tried them with ceriglass to know for sure.

Does this polish also add a layer of protection?

I have read on DW some mention that it has special protection components but in my experience it does not exhibit the beading properties associated with protection. So i have not seen and proof of protection. That was the only reason I didn't mention it. I'll be adding a coating over the top once my windshield is complete.

I had about the same level of success when I tried Diamondite's Creme, but I fell short of correcting the pits, which is what I was really shooting for. I saw you corrected the wiper scratches, but did you notice any difference in deeper flaws like pits?

Honestly the scratches were so bad it was impossible to study the pits. I think no matter what product you use correcting pits in glass is going to be extremely time consuming unless they are extremely shallow.

 

[LegacyGT]

Corey, you are an incredible asset to the detailing community. With the long hours of testing, and even longer hours of writing, editing, and posting we are very fortunate to benefit from your efforts.

Sincerely - Everyone


On a more personal note, fantastic in depth review, I love that your personality showed through a bit on this one You had me smiling describing the demise of your work dress pants when trying to do a quick bit of work before leaving in the morning, I think we have all been there.

Ceri-Glass will be in my next order It looked like they changed the glass pad to be black on the Velcro side which I must admit is a good thing. First time I used the glass pad I thought the Velcro just sucked ... turns out I had it on backwards :nomore:

This thread also deserves to be back on the front page :bump:

 

[CEE DOG]

Thanks again to everyone for the comments discussion, if I miss a direct reply to anyone my apologies.

Great review Dog, as usual! Looks like driving that car won't be as much of a hazard anymore! I went ahead and ordered some last night when they were put up. Can't wait to give it a try!

Thank you my friend rops:

Corey, I hate it when you post and I have to read on my iPhone! Your posts are much more enjoyable on a full size computer.

As always, thank you for an in-depth, informative and objective review of the newest products available at AG. You obviously have a passion for detailing and maybe a little obsessive compulsiveness that the entire detailing community benefits from on a continual basis. It was "nice" to see that even a master like yourself struggled dialing in the proper technique for a new product.

Not sure I would need the in depth cleaning your daily driver did, but the kit with applicators to clean water spots seems like a no brainer at that price point. Looking forward to the update on exhaust tips to let me know if it is even a bigger bargain.

Thank you Jon! It's great to have a productive outlet for my (borderline?) OCD other than my full time job. While I must keep it under control for the benefit of my day to day relations :laughing: I'm glad I can release it here and I very much appreciate your comments

Corey, once again, top notch review! Do you ever take a break from being awesome? Anyway, did you, by chance, use a foam pad on a DA? I'm curious if it would work. Or maybe ceri glass on a MF pad? I will be picking up some Ceri glass tomorrow and I can always try the foam/mf pad route as well

Thank you s much for your comments :buffing:

I regretfully must say I did not use it on foam with the D/A or with an mf pad at all.

Great review Corey. The before and after shots are where the proof in performance is evident. I'll pop a smaller foam pad on my rotary as it seems to be the right choice..rops:

CarPro CeriGlass is definitely destined for my product supply....rops:

Excellent Bobby, Thank you! It will work well with rotary for sure and with that smaller pad heat buildup will be a bit less.

Hi Corey...

Again, I must say, an excellent review! Your write-ups and photos are always informative and make for "an easy read":dblthumb2:

Also...A few things I believe I gleaned from your review :

1.) Glad you brought up some health & safety issues that shouldn't be overlooked when polishing glass with products containing cerium oxide.
2.) Excessive heat build-up....That it may cause optical distortion. {I'd like to add, if you don't mind, that the "heat-build up" from polishing/buffing windshield glass can be transferred to the underlying 'plastic laminate', possibly affecting its bonding properties..even its very own optical clarity, also.}
3.) You made it aware that multiple applications may be the best route in attempting scratch(es) removal/improvement....Better than trying to remove everything all at one time!
4.) Machine speed is crucial, as well as the type of machine itself.
5.) "Correct" glass polishing pads plays an important role.

Please feel free to correct any of my misreadings/understandings of your review.

Two other items of interest:

A.) Other than windshields being laminated, most of vehicles' other glass surfaces/windows is made from "tempered-glass". I'm sure I'm not the only one who has attempted to remove scratches from those glass surfaces...with the driver's side window being more susceptible....often with less than desired outcomes. [It has been said that polishing tempered-glass (with its characteristic shattering properties) may well be left alone.]
Question then: Has there been any discussions regarding this issue and CeriGlass' role in doing so?

B.) There are different grades of cerium oxides, some are even used in metal alloys' production processes....Using a cerium oxide glass polishing compound for polishing "metals" is something I personally have never tried.....Especially on stainless steel. For that I use the "green rouge", i.e.: green chromium oxide laden products.

An update, in regards to the above matters, would be greatly appreciated. (Of course, I expect this to be done: "At your leisure" )


Thanks again for your review.



Bob

Thank you for your summary and further analysis Bob.

As far as the particle size of the cerium in ceriglass I thought I had read something somewhere on this but can't currently find it. I'll shoot Carpro a message and see if I can get a measurement on the particle size or some such info.

I had not used the product on the side glass of any vehicle but you bring up a VERY important subject IMO. I don't know what CarPro would say about it but I'll tell you what I think and will later contact them to get their take.

The following are two entirely different materials that deserve different thought and treatment.

Tempered glass - Used in the majority of glass windows on the sides and rear of the vehicle.

Tempered glass is easily identifiably by it's visual appearance when viewed through polarized glasses. That funny pattern you see is the stress the glass is forced to endure which also gives it it's strength.

The tempering process involves heating the glass to an extreme temperature and cooling it at an extremely accelerated rate.

Tempered glass is much stronger due to that process but this also leaves it fragile to certain actions. If the "skin" is penetrated it can become unstable and shatter easily. This is why tempered glass is formed before the tempering process. Once it has been tempered it is no longer workable. Compromising it's surface (even with scratches) can leave it in a fragile state.

Laminates or coatings may have been applied to these tempered glass windows as well which further complicates the issue in the ways you already mentioned.

Laminated Safety Glass - Used for most windshields - two layers of glass with a layer of PVB (plastic) between them.

Here I would expect it unlikely for the PVB to delaminate as it is trapped between glass but I suppose it would be distorted with the use of temperatures that are too high.

Using ceriglass according to the directions won't get the temperatures any where near high enough to cause an issue like that in my experience. However I too think it's important people are aware of this factor so they don't do anything crazy.

While clarity is of course important the PVB layer also serves the purpose being a part of this structural surface. When you get a chip all the way through to the PVB layer this is the type of thing you see where it can easily turn into a domino affect if stress (thermal or otherwise) is induced. To stop the shattering affect they can often inject resin to stabilize this layer as well as the glass when caught early enough.

What some don't realize is the windshield is an important structural surface that is an important factor in many types of accidents. Without it the vehicle would collapse or crumple differently. That PVB layer also acts to ensure you aren't ejected through the glass in some types of accidents.


I'll be back late to reply to other posts. Cheers

 

[CEE DOG]

Great job Corey!

Thanks buddy!

Corey, another absolute masterpiece! Just incredible! Thanks for all the time you spend doing these incredible reviews! You know what General Patton would say..

Thank you my friend :dblthumb2: good luck on the GTR tommorrow :buffing:

Corey, you are an incredible asset to the detailing community. With the long hours of testing, and even longer hours of writing, editing, and posting we are very fortunate to benefit from your efforts.

Sincerely - Everyone


On a more personal note, fantastic in depth review, I love that your personality showed through a bit on this one You had me smiling describing the demise of your work dress pants when trying to do a quick bit of work before leaving in the morning, I think we have all been there.

Ceri-Glass will be in my next order It looked like they changed the glass pad to be black on the Velcro side which I must admit is a good thing. First time I used the glass pad I thought the Velcro just sucked ... turns out I had it on backwards :nomore:

This thread also deserves to be back on the front page :bump:

Thanks so much for all of that Bill!! It means a lot coming from you and I appreciate the encouragement on the writing as well! I'll be sure to try to keep it free and not edit the fun out of it anymore!

 

[NY946]

Great review. Can anyone compare this to the DP Glass restorer?

 

[Bunky]

Great review. Can anyone compare this to the DP Glass restorer?

DP is a citrus based type cleaner and cannot removed swirls. DP can remove some water spots but do not find it that aggressive compared to paint polishes on glass or polishes like PB's Pro Polish 2.

 

[NY946]

Thanks for the info. :xyxthumbs: