REVIEW - Dr.Colorchip paint chip repair system - Garry Dean - Tampa, FL - Premium Custom Detailing

It's hard to tell, but in the video the chip still looks white/grey. Is the color on there?
 
Flannigan said:
It's hard to tell, but in the video the chip still looks white/grey. Is the color on there?
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Its funny you comment.

If you watched the video you would see that I put the paint in the chip. There is a big difference between no paint and after the paint is applied. I took stills also, but they looked the same.
 
before
before.png


and after
after.png



Again, I say it's hard to tell. Thats why I asked. No need to get defensive, it was a simple question.
 
I've got some at the house right now waiting for me to have some time. Will post before and after pics. I also have the Langka system and will compare the two.

Jenn
 
Flannigan said:
before
before.png


and after
after.png



Again, I say it's hard to tell. Thats why I asked. No need to get defensive, it was a simple question.
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Thanks for the screen shots. Maybe my response came across wrong. I didnt mean to sound defensive.

I think the finished product looks that way because the paint doesnt completely fill the chip. After your post I went back and looked for myself and you are right, it is hard to tell. Just didnt come out well on camera via video or stills.
 
Jenn1270 said:
I've got some at the house right now waiting for me to have some time. Will post before and after pics. I also have the Langka system and will compare the two.

Jenn
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A comparison would be great.
 
V3AutoDetailing said:
Have you used this to say, go over a bumper or hood that is covered in small chips.
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The video is of my first use of this product. I do intend on using it again. I will keep you all updated on any further findings!
 
Garry Dean said:
The video is of my first use of this product. I do intend on using it again. I will keep you all updated on any further findings!
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Thanks, I saw it after i posted.

My fiance's car is coved in very small chips on the bumper and hood. Upsate Ny salt. I might have to give this a try, covery the entire bumper.

Top it with Opti Coat. HMMM.
 
Top it with Opti Coat. HMMM.[/QUOTE]


That seemed to really work well.
 
I think the Dr Colorchip is good for noobies- but someone like you Garry should be using something more professional.

As a paint guy, I can give you a system that works and will get rid of your chip-completely. Now, this is for bigger chips- little dots, divots I think the Dr CChip is decent.

Anyways..Use REAL PPG basecoat, and use real PPG clear.

Dab the basecoat in the chip..let dry, mix your clear ( I usually do a couple drops of clear with 1 drop hardener) and use a small pick, dropper, whatever to apply the clear. Make sure the clear is ABOVE the surrounding surface

Let dry overnight, hit with 1500 to level, and buff.

Your biggest expense will be the clear, but as a pro you'll be able to more than recoup the outlay to get real clearcoat.

I've also seen Rolls Royce techs MIX base/clear together, and rub it on similar to the DCC system, but they use automotive grade reducer with a cheescloth/plastic card to "level" the application.

And no..reducer does not hurt factory cured paint.
 
BLKZ06 said:
I think the Dr Colorchip is good for noobies- but someone like you Garry should be using something more professional.

As a paint guy, I can give you a system that works and will get rid of your chip-completely. Now, this is for bigger chips- little dots, divots I think the Dr CChip is decent.

Anyways..Use REAL PPG basecoat, and use real PPG clear.

Dab the basecoat in the chip..let dry, mix your clear ( I usually do a couple drops of clear with 1 drop hardener) and use a small pick, dropper, whatever to apply the clear. Make sure the clear is ABOVE the surrounding surface

Let dry overnight, hit with 1500 to level, and buff.

Your biggest expense will be the clear, but as a pro you'll be able to more than recoup the outlay to get real clearcoat.

I've also seen Rolls Royce techs MIX base/clear together, and rub it on similar to the DCC system, but they use automotive grade reducer with a cheescloth/plastic card to "level" the application.

And no..reducer does not hurt factory cured paint.
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Thanks. That is very similar to how I've been doing it for years.

I intend to continue in my old ways, but for occasions where the time I have with the vehicle is minimal I will go to Dr.colorchip.
 
that would seem like the right thing to do anyways is to mix the base with the clear heck even the hardner too so long as it stays capped it shouldnt go bad. as for dr. colorchip, i gave up on it. i even called their tech support line and i just cant get it right its just not working for me. i would have to do it traditionally also, overfill the cavity of the chip and grind it down with a foam buffing pad.
 
fabiolas4 said:
that would seem like the right thing to do anyways is to mix the base with the clear heck even the hardner too so long as it stays capped it shouldnt go bad. as for dr. colorchip, i gave up on it. i even called their tech support line and i just cant get it right its just not working for me. i would have to do it traditionally also, overfill the cavity of the chip and grind it down with a foam buffing pad.
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Giving up so easily? I've used it on 3 different cars so far with excellent results.
 
ya i have to man, its too complicated with the liquid stuff and the pressure needed to take the excess off, its just such a pain. the chip is still there, its colored but still there and in my opinion if you can feel it with your finger then its not even 25% gone and if im going to rid any chips i want them 50%-75% gone. im better off the old fashion way with a toothpick and just dripping it in the cavity of the chip and letting it dry at least it will be level and shiny and i wont have to sand anything. only thing i got outa this kit was touchup paint that matched.
 
fabiolas4 said:
ya i have to man, its too complicated with the liquid stuff and the pressure needed to take the excess off, its just such a pain. the chip is still there, its colored but still there and in my opinion if you can feel it with your finger then its not even 25% gone and if im going to rid any chips i want them 50%-75% gone. im better off the old fashion way with a toothpick and just dripping it in the cavity of the chip and letting it dry at least it will be level and shiny and i wont have to sand anything. only thing i got outa this kit was touchup paint that matched.
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Fair enough I guess. Just like everything else, you cant win em all.
 
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