Review: GYEON Q2 ONE Enthusiast Ceramic Coating by Mike Phillips

Can you apply Gyeon Q2 One over Can Coat already applied to your car.
 
Hey Mike
My car is coated with Gyeon Can Coat. Will I have to strip the car completely to apply the Q2 One? Also I have a PPF film on sections of my car any thoughts on how to strip Can coat without hurting the PPF?
 
Salagati said:
Hey Mike
My car is coated with Gyeon Can Coat. Will I have to strip the car completely to apply the Q2 One? Also I have a PPF film on sections of my car any thoughts on how to strip Can coat without hurting the PPF?
Click to expand...

I should have been more clear. You want the longest lasting product as the base. Just like a sealant topped with a wax. In this case Gyeon One first topped with CanCoat.

Gyeon One has a claimed longevity of 1 year and CanCoat estimated between 6-9 months.

You have a couple options

1. Let CanCoat do it's thing for a few months and when it is time for a reapplication proceed to polish and use One topped with CanCoat

2. Polish off the current layer of CanCoat and then proceed to use One topped with CanCoat.
 
As mentioned, apply Gyeon One to bare paint.

Did a Lunar Silver 2018 Honda HR-V with Gyeon One, topped with Gyeon CanCoat, applied 02/09/2018. It's holding up quite well, water beads and rolls nicely off paint in the rain. Owner mentioned she does wash car each week...with Dawn or Joy dish washing soap (hey, I can't control what people do once I'm done) which seems to have had no effect on coating(s). It's a nice combo. In NE Ohio so vehicle did see 50 mile daily commutes in pretty nasty winter conditions from February thru April this year.
 
I've contemplated trying out a coating and stumbled onto this product review. The idea of a 1 year coating appeals to me. I have some questions on maintenance and whether a coating is the way to go. I wash my car 1 to 2 times a week from the mid April to early October months. I've used various waxes and sealants and every couple weeks I'll usually use a drying aid or topper product. Bead Maker was something I used a lot this year after washes or as a drying aid. I like to do a polish each spring just to keep the paint looking really sharp. The winter months are tough though. Usually once we get to December it's into the -25*C and colder. This usually lasts until mid Feb. On average it's usually -30*C during these months and hit's -40*C often. Heck we've hit -50*C the last 3 of 4 winters. It's basically impossible to clean your car when it gets this cold. The self serve car washes will not usually stay open once we get to -25*C and colder. Unless you happen to have a heated garage with a drain you are s*** out of luck. During these times you can go through extended periods without being able to wash your car. Could this be problematic with coatings and water spot issues?

Ideally I would want to apply the coating in Spring (late april or early may). When I get to around the mid September time I would want to boost the coating before winter. I know I can use a product like reload or can coat, but I'm unsure of what kind of paint prep I can do about 5 to 6 months into the coatings life? From what I've read I can do chemical decontamination, so iron and tar if needed. No claying though.

How can you tell when a coating has worn off? Will a product like Gyeon One be pretty much done after a year? Will doing a light polish in spring a year later be enough to remove any left over coating if there is any or will a compound and polish be required?

Is it even worth it to go the coating route or am I better off just using a product like gyeon can coat or my sealant of choice in the spring and fall every year?
 
SirFrederick said:
I've contemplated trying out a coating and stumbled onto this product review. The idea of a 1 year coating appeals to me. I have some questions on maintenance and whether a coating is the way to go. I wash my car 1 to 2 times a week from the mid April to early October months. I've used various waxes and sealants and every couple weeks I'll usually use a drying aid or topper product. Bead Maker was something I used a lot this year after washes or as a drying aid. I like to do a polish each spring just to keep the paint looking really sharp. The winter months are tough though. Usually once we get to December it's into the -25*C and colder. This usually lasts until mid Feb. On average it's usually -30*C during these months and hit's -40*C often. Heck we've hit -50*C the last 3 of 4 winters. It's basically impossible to clean your car when it gets this cold. The self serve car washes will not usually stay open once we get to -25*C and colder. Unless you happen to have a heated garage with a drain you are s*** out of luck. During these times you can go through extended periods without being able to wash your car. Could this be problematic with coatings and water spot issues?

Ideally I would want to apply the coating in Spring (late april or early may). When I get to around the mid September time I would want to boost the coating before winter. I know I can use a product like reload or can coat, but I'm unsure of what kind of paint prep I can do about 5 to 6 months into the coatings life? From what I've read I can do chemical decontamination, so iron and tar if needed. No claying though.

How can you tell when a coating has worn off? Will a product like Gyeon One be pretty much done after a year? Will doing a light polish in spring a year later be enough to remove any left over coating if there is any or will a compound and polish be required?

Is it even worth it to go the coating route or am I better off just using a product like gyeon can coat or my sealant of choice in the spring and fall every year?
Click to expand...


Most people use the visual indicator of water beading to determine if the coating is still present or not.

:)
 
SirFrederick said:
I've contemplated trying out a coating and stumbled onto this product review. The idea of a 1 year coating appeals to me. I have some questions on maintenance and whether a coating is the way to go. I wash my car 1 to 2 times a week from the mid April to early October months. I've used various waxes and sealants and every couple weeks I'll usually use a drying aid or topper product. Bead Maker was something I used a lot this year after washes or as a drying aid. I like to do a polish each spring just to keep the paint looking really sharp. The winter months are tough though. Usually once we get to December it's into the -25*C and colder. This usually lasts until mid Feb. On average it's usually -30*C during these months and hit's -40*C often. Heck we've hit -50*C the last 3 of 4 winters. It's basically impossible to clean your car when it gets this cold. The self serve car washes will not usually stay open once we get to -25*C and colder. Unless you happen to have a heated garage with a drain you are s*** out of luck. During these times you can go through extended periods without being able to wash your car. Could this be problematic with coatings and water spot issues?

Ideally I would want to apply the coating in Spring (late april or early may). When I get to around the mid September time I would want to boost the coating before winter. I know I can use a product like reload or can coat, but I'm unsure of what kind of paint prep I can do about 5 to 6 months into the coatings life? From what I've read I can do chemical decontamination, so iron and tar if needed. No claying though.

How can you tell when a coating has worn off? Will a product like Gyeon One be pretty much done after a year? Will doing a light polish in spring a year later be enough to remove any left over coating if there is any or will a compound and polish be required?

Is it even worth it to go the coating route or am I better off just using a product like gyeon can coat or my sealant of choice in the spring and fall every year?
Click to expand...

I would maybe not use Gyeon One in your environment. For the same price as One you can get Carpro CQUK 3.0. CQUK is developed for a harsher winter environment. Not maybe your extreme winter LOL. But I think that CQUK 3.0 would easy last the year you are looking for. And the longer a coating is on the car the easier it will be polished off when it comes to reapply. You can get lucky that it will last 2 years if you apply 2 layers of it. Maybe a booster is needed to last the second winter with something like Gyeon CanCoat. One more product that comes to mind is Polish Angel Viking Coat. It's developed also to last in a harsher winter environment. A little pricey, but you get 50ml and will get you to coat 2 medium sized cars with 2 layers. And it's as easy at it gets to apply Viking Coat. It's like applying a sealant and you can apply it with a polisher too.

Polish Angel Viking Coat

That is some crazy temperature you have where you live.

/Tony

/
 
Mike Phillips said:
Most people use the visual indicator of water beading to determine if the coating is still present or not.

:)
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Yes I guess that question probably sounded dumb, but I just wasn't sure if simply losing beading properties meant that a ceramic coating has completely deteriorated. I guess if I were to do a chemical decontamination and the beading came back to life then the coating is probably still present and it was just the road grime and traffic film that was preventing the beading.

SWETM said:
I would maybe not use Gyeon One in your environment. For the same price as One you can get Carpro CQUK 3.0. CQUK is developed for a harsher winter environment. Not maybe your extreme winter LOL. But I think that CQUK 3.0 would easy last the year you are looking for. And the longer a coating is on the car the easier it will be polished off when it comes to reapply. You can get lucky that it will last 2 years if you apply 2 layers of it. Maybe a booster is needed to last the second winter with something like Gyeon CanCoat. One more product that comes to mind is Polish Angel Viking Coat. It's developed also to last in a harsher winter environment. A little pricey, but you get 50ml and will get you to coat 2 medium sized cars with 2 layers. And it's as easy at it gets to apply Viking Coat. It's like applying a sealant and you can apply it with a polisher too.

Polish Angel Viking Coat

That is some crazy temperature you have where you live.

/Tony

/
Click to expand...
I considered CQUK 3.0, but I think I prefer to keep the paint looking as best as possible vs having longer durability of a product. I'm fine with a coating only lasting a year as I want to do a polish every spring and therefore would have to reapply a fresh coating anyways. I like to use forced air to dry my car so the hydrophobicity of a coating is very appealing to me. That and making the weekly washes a little easier. When I stumbled onto Mike's article about a one year coating it peeked my interest. I've read very good things about cancoat as a stand alone product too. It seems as though it provides the same characteristics of a coating but with shorter longevity. I guess I'm just trying to decide if it's worth going the coating route vs using a product like cancoat twice a year.

Our winters are pretty crazy in Canada depending on the province you live in. Although being in Sweden, yours must be pretty much the same I would think. Fingers crossed though as it's been a very mild winter for us so far.
 
Yeah CanCoat would work if applyied spring and fall. It's the winter months that could get it fail in the end. What you can do is to use Gyeon Primer as a polish and apply CanCoat on top of that. And if you are willing to test the coating One and apply that in the spring. You could top it with CanCoat in the fall after a chemical decon. CanCoat is a little more friendly to apply even without a polish first. If you want the looks I would consider Polish Angel Viking Coat. But I would think you will be satisfied with either of the named coatings. And also the water behavior and the ease of washing you get with them too. Then how well the looks and the behavior is until they wears off. It's what Mike Phillips says it comes down how you touch your paint when you maintain the car.

Yeah in the northern Sweden we have a simualar weather as you. And I live in south of Sweden. There we have from 0C to -10C and if it's a colder year down to -20C. The PA Viking Coat was developed in the northern Sweden and Norway IIRC. So a very like weather as you have. And it's not wrong in haveing a 2 year coating on for a year and polishing it off and reapply. It would mean a better protection if any. And the coatings behavior deminishing over time. So some coatings even if 2 years you may want to reapply sooner. To have a great look and a high function on them. That could be a problem with the 1 year ones. That in harsher environment and you drive alot. They can be failing sooner than the 1 year claim and that's the same with the 2 years also. It's not an easy choice to do. And sometimes we get set on a product to test out. And that is not any wrong in that.
 
SirFrederick said:
Yes I guess that question probably sounded dumb, but I just wasn't sure if simply losing beading properties meant that a ceramic coating has completely deteriorated. I guess if I were to do a chemical decontamination and the beading came back to life then the coating is probably still present and it was just the road grime and traffic film that was preventing the beading.

I considered CQUK 3.0, but I think I prefer to keep the paint looking as best as possible vs having longer durability of a product. I'm fine with a coating only lasting a year as I want to do a polish every spring and therefore would have to reapply a fresh coating anyways. I like to use forced air to dry my car so the hydrophobicity of a coating is very appealing to me. That and making the weekly washes a little easier. When I stumbled onto Mike's article about a one year coating it peeked my interest. I've read very good things about cancoat as a stand alone product too. It seems as though it provides the same characteristics of a coating but with shorter longevity. I guess I'm just trying to decide if it's worth going the coating route vs using a product like cancoat twice a year.

Our winters are pretty crazy in Canada depending on the province you live in. Although being in Sweden, yours must be pretty much the same I would think. Fingers crossed though as it's been a very mild winter for us so far.
Click to expand...

One thing to consider is the application process for Gyeon One is not the most straight forward. Jeff from Gyeon has a how to article on detailed image ask a pro blog. Check it out before investing in One.

I can not tell you to get a coating but one thing I can say is to give it a try and determine if a coating is for you. Gyeon CanCoat is a great product and I would venture to say that it is Gyeon's best coating product. I have had it last 15 months paired with Gyeon Primer Polish here in Southern California. Actually a bit longer on the vertical surfaces compared to the horizontal surfaces. Sure we don't get any show here but it performed as good and at times better than Gyeon Syncro for me. CanCoat is a good option to start with.

CQUK 3.0 is a good option as mentioned. 4 months on my daily driver and it is doing well as is Cquartz TiO2. Other options to consider for 1 year coatings are Sonax CC36 and Optimum Gloss Coat. Sonax CC36 has more aggressive water behavior and performed better for me compared to Optimum Gloss Coat which struggled to make it a year.
 
SWETM said:
Yeah CanCoat would work if applyied spring and fall. It's the winter months that could get it fail in the end. What you can do is to use Gyeon Primer as a polish and apply CanCoat on top of that. And if you are willing to test the coating One and apply that in the spring. You could top it with CanCoat in the fall after a chemical decon. CanCoat is a little more friendly to apply even without a polish first. If you want the looks I would consider Polish Angel Viking Coat. But I would think you will be satisfied with either of the named coatings. And also the water behavior and the ease of washing you get with them too. Then how well the looks and the behavior is until they wears off. It's what Mike Phillips says it comes down how you touch your paint when you maintain the car.

Yeah in the northern Sweden we have a simualar weather as you. And I live in south of Sweden. There we have from 0C to -10C and if it's a colder year down to -20C. The PA Viking Coat was developed in the northern Sweden and Norway IIRC. So a very like weather as you have. And it's not wrong in haveing a 2 year coating on for a year and polishing it off and reapply. It would mean a better protection if any. And the coatings behavior deminishing over time. So some coatings even if 2 years you may want to reapply sooner. To have a great look and a high function on them. That could be a problem with the 1 year ones. That in harsher environment and you drive alot. They can be failing sooner than the 1 year claim and that's the same with the 2 years also. It's not an easy choice to do. And sometimes we get set on a product to test out. And that is not any wrong in that.
Click to expand...
Great info. Thanks. The retailer I purchase from said a similar thing. He thought that with our harsh winters that One may not be the way to go and I might be better of with Pure instead. Going with One and then adding a layer of cancoat right before winter may just be enough.

The Guz said:
One thing to consider is the application process for Gyeon One is not the most straight forward. Jeff from Gyeon has a how to article on detailed image ask a pro blog. Check it out before investing in One.

I can not tell you to get a coating but one thing I can say is to give it a try and determine if a coating is for you. Gyeon CanCoat is a great product and I would venture to say that it is Gyeon's best coating product. I have had it last 15 months paired with Gyeon Primer Polish here in Southern California. Actually a bit longer on the vertical surfaces compared to the horizontal surfaces. Sure we don't get any show here but it performed as good and at times better than Gyeon Syncro for me. CanCoat is a good option to start with.

CQUK 3.0 is a good option as mentioned. 4 months on my daily driver and it is doing well as is Cquartz TiO2. Other options to consider for 1 year coatings are Sonax CC36 and Optimum Gloss Coat. Sonax CC36 has more aggressive water behavior and performed better for me compared to Optimum Gloss Coat which struggled to make it a year.
Click to expand...
Great info as well. I read Jeff's article on One and also his article on Pure. Pure seemed to be the more finicky product to apply though. Maybe finicky is not the right description. Just a different application method compared to the typical cross hatch method normally used with coatings. One seemed pretty straight forward unless applying in high humidity which seems to make it much more grabby when trying to buff and level out.


Both of you mentioned Gyeon Primer. I saw the article Jeff wrote on that as well. It's an interesting product. I'm not sure I would have the time to wait 24 hrs between Primer and coating application though. I can definitely see this being beneficial if you have soft paint. One less step of touching the paint never hurts especially with soft paint. Does Gyeon Primer have any abrasives in it at all?
 
Hopefully Budget chimes in as he used One and he can speak to the application of it. Or PM him.

SirFrederick said:
Both of you mentioned Gyeon Primer. I saw the article Jeff wrote on that as well. It's an interesting product. I'm not sure I would have the time to wait 24 hrs between Primer and coating application though. I can definitely see this being beneficial if you have soft paint. One less step of touching the paint never hurts especially with soft paint. Does Gyeon Primer have any abrasives in it at all?
Click to expand...

Yes it does.

Check out this video about the 4 min mark for more info on Primer Polish.

YouTube
 
I like your thinking with the light spring polish. The only other factor I'd consider is cost. I personally wouldn't spend $70 on a product that I'm only going to keep on the car for a year. May not be a deciding factor for you but just throwing it out there.

I'm thinking it might be a bit redundant trying to layer One and Cancoat. I haven't used either product myself but if it was me I would just use Cancoat in the spring and add another layer right before winter and call it a day. I wouldn't even sweat if your LSP doesn't last perfectly through the winter. Your light spring polish will take care of any issues.
 
SirFrederick said:
Great info. Thanks. The retailer I purchase from said a similar thing. He thought that with our harsh winters that One may not be the way to go and I might be better of with Pure instead. Going with One and then adding a layer of cancoat right before winter may just be enough.

Great info as well. I read Jeff's article on One and also his article on Pure. Pure seemed to be the more finicky product to apply though. Maybe finicky is not the right description. Just a different application method compared to the typical cross hatch method normally used with coatings. One seemed pretty straight forward unless applying in high humidity which seems to make it much more grabby when trying to buff and level out.


Both of you mentioned Gyeon Primer. I saw the article Jeff wrote on that as well. It's an interesting product. I'm not sure I would have the time to wait 24 hrs between Primer and coating application though. I can definitely see this being beneficial if you have soft paint. One less step of touching the paint never hurts especially with soft paint. Does Gyeon Primer have any abrasives in it at all?
Click to expand...
Sent ya a PM
 
DetailZeus said:
I like your thinking with the light spring polish. The only other factor I'd consider is cost. I personally wouldn't spend $70 on a product that I'm only going to keep on the car for a year. May not be a deciding factor for you but just throwing it out there.

I'm thinking it might be a bit redundant trying to layer One and Cancoat. I haven't used either product myself but if it was me I would just use Cancoat in the spring and add another layer right before winter and call it a day. I wouldn't even sweat if your LSP doesn't last perfectly through the winter. Your light spring polish will take care of any issues.
Click to expand...
I did a car last February I believe, Gyeon Primer + Gyeon One + CanCoat. I've seen the car nearly every day since then (HR lady at work) and when it rains, beads still roll of the hood nicely and over all, still looks very good, impressed with the results.

Owner does wash it weekly during nice weather seasons...albeit with Dawn or Joy dishwashing soap (She prefers Joy) but it's still doing quite well so the combo is solid. She drives about 70 miles round trip on freeway so car does see some usage. I find the entire situation somewhat impressive.

I used Gyeon One before the 'new' application process was released and it was the tackiest coating I've ever used, kinda a PIA to apply but flip side was high spots easily (kinda) buffed away over an hour later.
 
Thanks for all the input for everyone. Thanks Budget for all the additional info you provided.

I'm going to try out a coating once spring arrives. I need to try one out just to ease my curiosity. In the meantime I am hoping to try out CanCoat. We have a warm break in the weather right now, so I'm hoping to be able to apply this next week. I have a new car on the way that is due to arrive any day now. Hopefully the weather will hold for a little longer.

As for coatings I've narrowed it down to 3:

1. Kamikaze Miyabi and Overcoat - This is the most expensive for me as I have to order from the US at Esoteric. With the exchange rate it works out to around $165 for the coating and $65 for the overcoat plus what ever sales tax is there. I just have to time it accordingly to when I'm down in the US so I can save on shipping.
2. Gyeon Mohs Kit and CanCoat - I can get the Mohs Kit (includes Cure) locally for $117 plus additional 15% off and the CanCoat is $65 plus an additional 15% off. So $100 and $55 roughly plus tax.
3. CQUK 3.0 30ml and Reload 500ml - I can get this locally for $73.99 plus an additional 15% off. Reload 500ml is $46.99 plus an additional 15% off. So $63 and $40 plus tax.

I'm eagerly waiting to here what Budget's thoughts are on the CQUK 3.0 application process and finished results. I think this is in his queue right now. Kamikaze seems like the best product in terms of ease of application and end results. It's obviously more money due to the exchange rate, but appears to be a very good product. If the CQUK 3.0 turns out to be pretty good then it may be the way to go at it's price point for me.
 
That seems like a ton of money to throw at a solution that doesn't last more than a year. I understand the urge to polish it out in the spring, but I feel like today's sealants do a good enough job.
 
hogie said:
That seems like a ton of money to throw at a solution that doesn't last more than a year. I understand the urge to polish it out in the spring, but I feel like today's sealants do a good enough job.
Click to expand...
I decided against doing that. I'm not going to polish it out after a year. I'll go the full life span of the coating. I suspect around 24 months and it will probably be close to it's end life by then. At that point I will probably do a full polish.

There is always the chance that if I like the CanCoat as a stand alone enough I may just stick with that, but the curiosity in me will probably want to try a coating still come spring. CanCoat will also probably be the go to product I use on my wife's vehicle staring next spring unless I don't like it for some reason.
 
SirFrederick said:
Thanks for all the input for everyone. Thanks Budget for all the additional info you provided.

I'm going to try out a coating once spring arrives. I need to try one out just to ease my curiosity. In the meantime I am hoping to try out CanCoat. We have a warm break in the weather right now, so I'm hoping to be able to apply this next week. I have a new car on the way that is due to arrive any day now. Hopefully the weather will hold for a little longer.

As for coatings I've narrowed it down to 3:

1. Kamikaze Miyabi and Overcoat - This is the most expensive for me as I have to order from the US at Esoteric. With the exchange rate it works out to around $165 for the coating and $65 for the overcoat plus what ever sales tax is there. I just have to time it accordingly to when I'm down in the US so I can save on shipping.
2. Gyeon Mohs Kit and CanCoat - I can get the Mohs Kit (includes Cure) locally for $117 plus additional 15% off and the CanCoat is $65 plus an additional 15% off. So $100 and $55 roughly plus tax.
3. CQUK 3.0 30ml and Reload 500ml - I can get this locally for $73.99 plus an additional 15% off. Reload 500ml is $46.99 plus an additional 15% off. So $63 and $40 plus tax.

I'm eagerly waiting to here what Budget's thoughts are on the CQUK 3.0 application process and finished results. I think this is in his queue right now. Kamikaze seems like the best product in terms of ease of application and end results. It's obviously more money due to the exchange rate, but appears to be a very good product. If the CQUK 3.0 turns out to be pretty good then it may be the way to go at it's price point for me.
Click to expand...
The Guz is the expert with CQ UK 3, I'm looking to him for advice on the CQ UK 3 front. He's had it on a car for a while now and run through the process and lived with it for a while now.

I'll certainly relay my experiences but he can already make expert judgements on the experience...and if I recall, it's quite a nice application/performance so far.
 
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