Review: GYEON Q2 ONE Enthusiast Ceramic Coating by Mike Phillips

[Kamakaz1961]

As always FANTASTIC write up! I dig coatings! That being said I still use the OLD Fashioned Sealant and Wax...I guess I am just an OLD DUDE! I do coat my friends rides as they don't really take care of their rides like I take care of mine.

So overall there is a market for Coatings, Sealants and Waxes.

Keep on Rocking!

BTW, I use Gyeon CanCoat and looks like I will be using the new Gyeon Q2 ONE.

 

[HockeyCrazi]

Great review as always Mike, I looked up the kit on the AG website, comes with something called "Cure", looks like it may be a spray on product? Is that used after you've applied the coating to help it "cure" to the paint?

 

[The Guz]

Great review as always Mike, I looked up the kit on the AG website, comes with something called "Cure", looks like it may be a spray on product? Is that used after you've applied the coating to help it "cure" to the paint?

Cure is a maintenance silica spray sealant used to maintain the coating. Think of it like a spray wax for a coating. Stated durability on the bottle is up to 6 weeks.

 

[BudgetPlan1]

So after one year goes by for a daily driver, this car would benefit from a light polishing and re-application of a coating to restore that just-coated-look.

So in my mind, coatings that last longer than a year are great but for anyone that has the ability to re-polish their car, then a one year coating is more than enough...

I'm more of an optimist, or less OCD-ish, regarding appearance. While I have no practical use for a coating beyond 2 years, I think (hope) that's gonna be about the tipping point where my OCD-ness regarding daily driver appearance exceeds any protection that *may* be left in a given coatings lifespan.

It's a harsh world out there for a daily driver, harsh enough that no coating will offer 'appearance protection' beyond 15-20k miles, tops. The marring, small blemishes, scratches and swirls will eventually build to the point of needing attention, so hello polishing, goodbye coating...time to correct and reapply.

A 7 year, eleventy-thousandH coating is not something I need (or frankly believe is possible anyway).

Sometimes I think the best (and maybe easiset) route is Gyeon Can Coat longevity, polish as needed. But I'm not to that point yet...coatings are just too fun to play with right now, watching them as they degrade in real world use being part of that fun.

Entertainment is where ya find it....

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Great write up and you write so we understand it.

Thank you. In my opinion, good writing is truly a craft and the only way to become good at it is to do it a lot. I know when I first started out my writing was horrible, but that didn't stop me from pushing forward.

Many write as you are an experienced user.

Probably not intentional, just not thinking of the broad audience their words will reach.

Each year at SEMA I'm always surprised by how many people I meet that tell me they've been reading my articles since I started.

And accually it's the companys who creates them and their descriptions left out many things. As when you buy a coating kit. They don't write that you need more applicator towels and wipe of towels than you get. You would think 4 applicator towels and a wipe of towel is enough. But when you read about experienced user apply the coating they use alot of towels.

Yeah... sometimes the people doing the writing have never done the thing they are writing about. That's kind of normal for most businesses.

I think this is one of the things that separates my how-to books from most other books as most other books are written by writers, not detailers. I actually do the things I write about. If fact, some have argued that I shouldn't detail cars, that I'm past that. My response,

A: Detailing cars is my passion and it keeps my writing fresh.

B: Detailing cars is leading by example. A good leader never asks others to do what they themselves are unwilling to do.​

Then there's the entire walk the talk saying...

Is the towels enough to apply a coating that follow the coating kit in your opinion?

Thanks for the detailed write up!

Tony

I used 7 Bald Wipes for the stripping and the final buff. I do NOT believe I could have done a proper job with less.

This doesn't include the Gold Plus Jr. 16" x 16" towels I used to wipe off the compound residues.

Great questions... thank you for asking...

 

[HockeyCrazi]

Cure is a maintenance silica spray sealant used to maintain the coating. Think of it like a spray wax for a coating. Stated durability on the bottle is up to 6 weeks.

Thanks Guz!!

 

[rsarnold1s]

Great review Mike! I am thinking of making the jump from wax/sealants to a coating for my soon-to-be purchased new truck. Question though, how long can you store the product once you open it? I was thinking of getting the 50ml bottle if I can keep it around so I can reapply every year.

 

[BudgetPlan1]

Great review Mike! I am thinking of making the jump from wax/sealants to a coating for my soon-to-be purchased new truck. Question though, how long can you store the product once you open it? I was thinking of getting the 50ml bottle if I can keep it around so I can reapply every year.

It varies by product but generally once coating container is open, it's useful life is measured in months, sometimes weeks. I believe McKees can go longer but Gyeon is generally thought of to be 12 months shelf life, 6 months if opened.

Regarding Mohs in particular: https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...03-post-gyeon-mohs-questions.html#post1498915

 

[Desertnate]

It varies by product but generally once coating container is open, it's useful life is measured in months, sometimes weeks. I believe McKees can go longer but Gyeon is generally thought of to be 12 months shelf life, 6 months if opened.

Regarding Mohs in particular: https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...03-post-gyeon-mohs-questions.html#post1498915

Somewhere around here I think Nick@McKee's mentioned the coating would last almost indefinitely. However, that was not my experience.

I have a bottle of the original formula coating which hit the one year mark this Fall. When I used it at that time I noticed the coating performed very differently. It still sprayed just fine, but it flashed MUCH faster and didn't spread easily like in the past. Looking at the vehicle I used it on in the rain today, I'm not sure it's performing quite as well either. I only touch the bottles every six months, so I'm not sure at what point it started to go bad. I do know at the 6~7 month point it was still very good. If I was to do it again, I'd try to use up the bottle before it got to the one year point.

Don't get me wrong, I like the coating. I just feel it will expire in an opened bottle just like any of the others, just a lot slower.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Great review Mike!

Thank you sir.

I am thinking of making the jump from wax/sealants to a coating for my soon-to-be purchased new truck.

I'd say for most people, applying a ceramic paint coating to a brand new vehicle is a good way to go. That said, don't think that a coating is an invisible force field, you must still wash the car carefully and that means besides buying a coating, make sure you have all the right equipment to carefully wash and dry your coated truck.


For example, spend a few bucks and get 1 or 2 Werner Work Platforms. 2 are best for SUVs so you don't have to pick and move the platform each time you move to the other side of the car.


Work Stands Save Time
Werner Aluminum Work Stands are necessary anytime you're washing tall vehicles like SUVs. It's faster to have two one on each side instead of moving a single stand back and forth. Again, doing profitable production work is about saving time not wasting time.

The above is from my article here,

High quality production detailing by Mike Phillips



And then get all the tools you'll need to wash your truck carefully. Check out my article here,

How to wash a coated car - The Gentle Approach for Washing a Car by Mike Phillips



Also - if your budget allows, in my opinion, one of the best investments you can make if you're going to be the "Car Washer in Chief" is to get a Grit Guard Universal Detailing Cart like you see in this picture,


Grit Guard Universal Detailing Cart

It holds the bucket at waist height so you don't have to bend over every time you need to use your wash mitt. It also holds all your car washing tools and you can roll it around the car as you work around the car.

I have a full write-up coming for this cart in the near future.



The above white Mercedes-Benz picture taken from this article,

Review: GTechniq W6 Iron and General Fallout Remover & W4 Citrus Foam - Mike Phillips

Question though, how long can you store the product once you open it?

I was thinking of getting the 50ml bottle if I can keep it around so I can reapply every year.

Two comments...

I'm a fan of applying a coating once a year instead of trying to get 2, 3, 4 and so on years out of a single coating application. Mostly because if a car/truck/suv is a DAILY DRIVER the paint IS going to get a film of dirt on it called road film. (plus other contamination).

This means if you want to re-coat your vehicle you are going to want to do at least one machine polishing step to the paint and then chemically strip the paint. Just keep that in mind. Thus, stick with the 30 ml and leave the 50 ml to pro detailers going through their liquids as a normal practice.

 

[Eldorado2k]

For example, spend a few bucks and get 1 or 2 Werner Work Platforms. 2 are best for SUVs so you don't have to pick and move the platform each time you move to the other side of the car.

Amen to that. ^
If I would’ve known beforehand, I would’ve bought 2 on Black Friday without hesitation.

 

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Thanks, Mike! The amount of time you put into these reviews as well as the details is truly mind blowing!! With that said, how is this coating easier to apply than Gyeon Mohs? Application seems very, very similar.

 

[rsarnold1s]

Thank you sir.




I'd say for most people, applying a ceramic paint coating to a brand new vehicle is a good way to go. That said, don't think that a coating is an invisible force field, you must still wash the car carefully and that means besides buying a coating, make sure you have all the right equipment to carefully wash and dry your coated truck.


For example, spend a few bucks and get 1 or 2 Werner Work Platforms. 2 are best for SUVs so you don't have to pick and move the platform each time you move to the other side of the car.


Work Stands Save Time
Werner Aluminum Work Stands are necessary anytime you're washing tall vehicles like SUVs. It's faster to have two one on each side instead of moving a single stand back and forth. Again, doing profitable production work is about saving time not wasting time.

The above is from my article here,

High quality production detailing by Mike Phillips



And then get all the tools you'll need to wash your truck carefully. Check out my article here,

How to wash a coated car - The Gentle Approach for Washing a Car by Mike Phillips



Also - if your budget allows, in my opinion, one of the best investments you can make if you're going to be the "Car Washer in Chief" is to get a Grit Guard Universal Detailing Cart like you see in this picture,


Grit Guard Universal Detailing Cart

It holds the bucket at waist height so you don't have to bend over every time you need to use your wash mitt. It also holds all your car washing tools and you can roll it around the car as you work around the car.

I have a full write-up coming for this cart in the near future.



The above white Mercedes-Benz picture taken from this article,

Review: GTechniq W6 Iron and General Fallout Remover & W4 Citrus Foam - Mike Phillips








Two comments...

I'm a fan of applying a coating once a year instead of trying to get 2, 3, 4 and so on years out of a single coating application. Mostly because if a car/truck/suv is a DAILY DRIVER the paint IS going to get a film of dirt on it called road film. (plus other contamination).

This means if you want to re-coat your vehicle you are going to want to do at least one machine polishing step to the paint and then chemically strip the paint. Just keep that in mind. Thus, stick with the 30 ml and leave the 50 ml to pro detailers going through their liquids as a normal practice.

Thank you! I've learned a great deal on the forums, how-to videos and from your book. I have a pretty good amount of products and my wife said the other day "I swear if I see another AutoGeek package, your AutoGeek party is over"

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Thank you!

I've learned a great deal on the forums, how-to videos and from your book.

I have a pretty good amount of products and my wife said the other day

"I swear if I see another AutoGeek package, your AutoGeek party is over"

Don't blame me...


:laughing:

 

[DetailZeus]

[...] Two comments...

I'm a fan of applying a coating once a year instead of trying to get 2, 3, 4 and so on years out of a single coating application. Mostly because if a car/truck/suv is a DAILY DRIVER the paint IS going to get a film of dirt on it called road film. (plus other contamination).

This means if you want to re-coat your vehicle you are going to want to do at least one machine polishing step to the paint and then chemically strip the paint. Just keep that in mind. Thus, stick with the 30 ml and leave the 50 ml to pro detailers going through their liquids as a normal practice.

You along with another professional I trust say similar things about coatings. Your candidness and real-world approach is appreciated.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

You along with another professional I trust say similar things about coatings.

There's a time and place for everything, know the time and place is the key...

Your candidness and real-world approach is appreciated.

Thank you. Years ago I typed

I'm in this for the long run...


I'm still here, putting out more content than ever in my life and one thing I know,


An honest man's pillow is his peace of mind - John Cougar Melloncamp

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

***Update***


Check out this article on how to take care of your "nice" microfiber towels after the job.


Microfiber towels for ceramic paint coatings - How to care for - by Mike Phillips

 

[Supergus1]

Great write up Mike! Of all the consumer grade ceramic coatings, which one do you feel gives the best results AND is the most user friendly?

 

[BudgetPlan1]

Review: GYEON Q2 ONE Enthusiast Ceramic Coating by Mike Phillips



GYEON Q2 ONE Enthusiast Ceramic Coating

First my review

This is a great product. Although it's targeted at first time coating users in my opinion it's a perfect coating for anyone. Why? Because I'm in the camp that for most people, driving daily drivers, you don't want a 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 year or infinity coating because even with a coating, your car because it's exposed to the elements and wear-n-tear, should really be re-polished and then re-coated once a year to maintain both maximum protection and maximum gloss and beauty. I knows this because I've polished coated cars and I've seen the embedded dirt film called road grime come off the car and onto my pad. So call it a once a year coating or an enthusiast coating, it's really a great choice for anyone wanting to protect their daily driver. If you have a garage queen... then sure go for the 2, 3, 4 and so-on coatings advertised to last for multiple years because the paint on garage queens does't see the elements or the wear-n-tear like daily drivers.

Application
Coatings are NOT like traditional car waxes and synthetic sealants. First unlike a car wax or synthetic sealant, there is one extra step required of you to do to the paint on your car before you can apply the coating and that is to chemically strip the paint. I'll show you how below.

Also, coatings take a little more effort to apply. They don't tend to glide over paint like waxes and sealants and this isn't a big deal as long as you're aware of this (and now that you're reading my review you are "aware"), and here's my very simple tip and technique to make applying any coating easier. Slow-down. That's right, don't try to push the applicator over the paint quickly like you can with waxes and sealants. Simply slow down and allow the applicator and the coating to spread over the paint at a speed you can feel through your sense of touch that makes the movement feel easy, not forced. This means allowing a tick more time to apply a coating to your car than you would allow for applying a traditional car wax or synthetic paint sealant. The benefits are worth it.

Curious as to your thoughts on removal; used One over the weekend and it has to be one of the tackiest/stickiest coatings I've used; curious as to your thoughts on the somewhat tacky removal? All paint prepped/polished correctly. As soon as it hits the paint, it's got some significant drag on removal. In the end it came out very nice and was quite forgiving in the removal of missed product/high spots (some of which I intentionally left on a panel) at a significantly longer time than something like Mohs (or even Prime) but initial wipe-off was, uh...tenacious? Thankfully, the Gyeon BaldWipe towel was on hand in great supply and was the perfect choice for use with this product.

Application at around 70F indoors, various intervals/application methods used on test panels as well as vehicle in question...just found the immediate tackiness something I've never run into before. Interesting, to say the least.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Great write up Mike!

Of all the consumer grade ceramic coatings, which one do you feel gives the best results AND is the most user friendly?

The original Detailer's Pro Series, which became McKee's 37 was probably the easiest and simplest to use at the lowest cost.

I'm not sure what the price difference would be but the Pinnacle Black Label Paint Coating and Surface Coating are just as easy to use as the old DP coating was. It's also what I use on my own car. Pretty much a spray-and-wipe product. Get a year's protection easy.

I don't believe in coatings that last over a year unless the car is a Garage Queen. The reason why is because daily drivers get a film build of road grime on them, I've been detailing cars all my life and I know what I'm talking about. So for me, I'm going to "do something" to the paint before I need more longevity than a year and usually sooner as I like my cars to look great all the time, not just after they were coated.

The GYEON is also super easy to use and this last Tuesday, we used the new BLACKFIRE Pro Ceramic Coating and it too was super easy to use.

Besides easy-up-use, I prefer the paint on my cars to feel slippery, some coatings make the paint feel rubbery and some make it feel slippery. I won't use a coating that makes my car's paint feel rubbery. Another reason I like the Pinnacle Black Label Paint Coating.

Curious as to your thoughts on removal; used One over the weekend and it has to be one of the tackiest/stickiest coatings I've used; curious as to your thoughts on the somewhat tacky removal? All paint prepped/polished correctly. As soon as it hits the paint, it's got some significant drag on removal.

In the end it came out very nice and was quite forgiving in the removal of missed product/high spots (some of which I intentionally left on a panel) at a significantly longer time than something like Mohs (or even Prime) but initial wipe-off was, uh...tenacious?

Yes I found the GYEON One to be a tick on the tacky side for wipe off. After my initial application and wipe-off I waited only about 30 to 45 seconds and then wiped the coating off. I also only apply to small sections at a time, never any larger than 1/4 of the hood on the Ford Explorer for reference.

Just to note, not saying this would be what you experienced but I know I tend to over-apply coatings as there's a part of me that wants to see the product on the paint regardless of what a chemist says or what the technology is.... and I know from experience that the more coating on the surface, (if it's the real deal), the tackier it is to wipe-off.

Ideally, what you want is a real quality coating and then CAREFULLY apply the ample amount and if you work only a small section at a time - work the product with the applicator until it appears to disapper into the paint leaving only high spots or trace residues to wipe off.

When I apply too much of any coating so that you can actually see a layer of coating on a section of paint, (like a layer of wax or sealant), this is over-application of the coating and this leads to difficult wipe-off as a normal characteristic of these types of product.

In other words, when I have a hard time wiping off a coating, the problem is usually me, not the coating. What I need to do is S-L-O-W down and not rush and that's where I tend to make my mistake is rushing to get the job done. This is also why applying a wax or a synthetic sealant is more enjoyable and that's because it's E-A-S-Y.

Thankfully, the Gyeon Bald Wipe towel was on hand in great supply and was the perfect choice for use with this product.

I agree.

Application at around 70F indoors, various intervals/application methods used on test panels as well as vehicle in question...just found the immediate tackiness something I've never run into before. Interesting, to say the least.

Next time I apply this coating I'll pay careful attention and update this thread.