Review: Optimum GPS

Optimum GPS 1 Month Durability Update:

I haven’t found the durability to live up to what is claimed. To refresh you memory I applied GPS and did not add anything on top. One interesting thing I found was that on the side I used it more as a glaze the durability was not as good as the area where I polished it down. After two weeks I washed the vehicle and found that side was sheeting very slowly. My theory is that when it is polished down it cannibalizes some of the glaze properties and allows durability to last a bit longer. However I assume something was amiss in my application or some odd contaminant at some point since as I would expect better durability.

Unfortunately the side that lasted longer also didn’t last long enough when it came to good sheeting properties. It still beads some but not as well as I would have expected after 1 month. Its sheeting is compromised a lot further than expected which leads me to believe maybe the surface was contaminated with something at some point to accelerate the degradation of sealant. If anyone else has some recorded data on GPS durability that either agrees or disputes what I have recorded please post it here.


After 3 Weeks (Car Dirty)

P1000023.jpg



After 4+ weeks just washed

P1000105.jpg


P1000099.jpg
 
GPS's sealant is similar to Opti Seal..so it should be more prone to sheet than bead. Nice follow up!
 
Thanks Chris! I should have probably explained in more depth what I was saying but people seem to be sick of hearing in depth things LOL.

What I meant is when I use the flooding method on the final rinse it moves off the paint very slowly. However when it rains or is hit with water drops or spray beading does happen. Just not as tight as I would like. I never got a reply from you guys on my question about misting with water during the wipeoff. Can that affect the durability? Directions say to use a moist mf towel. Does that affect durability? Will spraying water on the panel and then wiping affect durability?
 
I'm sorry, I thought I answered that. Water will definately decrease durability. A towel dampened with OCW or OID would be ideal if you need some lube.
 
Excellent! Thanks Chris, maybe I just missed it. I checked my message on your forum yesterday but didn't see it. In any case thanks for the info and Happy New Year.
 
Sure thing, Corey. Happy New Year to you as well. Just think of it as Optiseal or UPGP, you wouldn't want to wet them during curing.
 
Chris, what is the cure time b4 getting wet? The standard 12 hours?
 
Sure thing, Corey. Happy New Year to you as well. Just think of it as Optiseal or UPGP, you wouldn't want to wet them during curing.


Thanks Chris, I thought that would be the case. I just got confused by the bottle saying to use a damp towel to wipe off.

Looking forward to the 6" BP!
 
Cory,

Would you say this product would remove minor swirls in paint with PC application. I am thinking of using this on my dad's Maxima. Also, would it be a good idea to top with some Ultima Paint Guard about 12 hours later? Do I need to wait 12 hours to top?
 
Actually since I already have Opti-seal I might just use that instead of the Ultima Paint guard. A few pages back an Optimum rep said the optiseal will float the wax and position under it so I guess its OK to use over the G-P-S?
 
Absolutely! If you have OS I would use that over GPS since they are designed complatibly without doubt.
 
Cory,

Would you say this product would remove minor swirls in paint with PC application. I am thinking of using this on my dad's Maxima. Also, would it be a good idea to top with some Ultima Paint Guard about 12 hours later? Do I need to wait 12 hours to top?

I missed the first question. Yes, it will remove light swirl marks. Of course it depends on a variety of factors but is certainly capable and removed 3000 grit marks as you saw in my thread. of course "light" is a relative term and there are many different types of paint but in my experience yes.
 
Cory,

For comparison, what other polishes have about the same level of cut as poliseal/G-P-S. Would Megs 205 be close? I'm just trying to get a feel for the level of cut.

Drew
 
Cory,

For comparison, what other polishes have about the same level of cut as poliseal/G-P-S. Would Megs 205 be close? I'm just trying to get a feel for the level of cut.

Drew

Hi Drew, on that same vehicle in the past I have used 205, TSR, 105, 85RD, WG FG, and griots machine polish.

I can tell you 205 had more cut than gps. The 85RD and FG I wouldn't know because I only used them for final polishing. Of course the others are much much more aggressive.

Sorry, I'm not more help on that answer yet.
 
Thanks for the review CEE DOG!

I may have missed the follow up post, but did Chris@optimum mean to use a dampened MF with optimum car wax or instant detailer to wipe off GPS instead of water?

Also, just wondering if I can use either opti-seal or ocw to top gps?

Thanks.
 
Thanks for the review CEE DOG!

I may have missed the follow up post, but did Chris@optimum mean to use a dampened MF with optimum car wax or instant detailer to wipe off GPS instead of water?

Also, just wondering if I can use either opti-seal or ocw to top gps?

Thanks.

Thank you!

Yes, that's what he was saying.

Yes, you can certainly top with either and I would recommend that you do. Please see below

Me:
Chris or David, if someone would like to top GPS with a wax or sealant should they wait for some time? How long does it take for the GPS to cure? Can both waxes and sealants be used? Will the solvents in some of them remove the GPS? Will a wax or sealant bond to the top of it or would a sealant lift the gps and seal between it and the paint?


Chris Thomas:
If using Optimum Products you can top after an hour as the polymers work well together. GPS should fully cross link withing 12 hours. Ours can, I haven't tested others. The carriers in OCW and OOS will not remove the protection if used per directions. With excessive wiping and pressure it is possible that some would be removed. Opti Seal will float the waxes to the top and position under them, but GPS also has a very similar sealant portion to OOS that won't move...but just become part of the OOS layer.
 
Corey,


I can tell you 205 had more cut than gps.
I don’t know about GPS as I’ve never tried it, but Poli-Seal which I believe is the same stuff (liquid paste, but not sprayable) has more cut than most people give it credit for.



Using the correct pad, I think it would get very close re cut to what 205 can achieve.


I recently did a test on part of panel which was Opti-Guard’d and had cured for 60 days. Poli-Seal on a red pad with just a couple of passes virtually removed all the Opti-Guard.


I think the advice that we received in the past re using Poli-Seal to remove high spots and to maintain Opti-Guard or Opti-Coat is wrong. Quite obviously from my testing, if you did use Poli-Seal to remove a high spot, you would actually remove the coating.


In the next couple of days, now that it has reached 90 day cure time I intend to do the same test on a different part of the same panel with Optimum Finish. I actually expect the result to be similar, but I think it is worth doing.
 
Corey,



I don’t know about GPS as I’ve never tried it, but Poli-Seal which I believe is the same stuff (liquid paste, but not sprayable) has more cut than most people give it credit for.



Using the correct pad, I think it would get very close re cut to what 205 can achieve.


I recently did a test on part of panel which was Opti-Guard’d and had cured for 60 days. Poli-Seal on a red pad with just a couple of passes virtually removed all the Opti-Guard.


I think the advice that we received in the past re using Poli-Seal to remove high spots and to maintain Opti-Guard or Opti-Coat is wrong. Quite obviously from my testing, if you did use Poli-Seal to remove a high spot, you would actually remove the coating.


In the next couple of days, now that it has reached 90 day cure time I intend to do the same test on a different part of the same panel with Optimum Finish. I actually expect the result to be similar, but I think it is worth doing.

In our previous conversations you used PS 22 hours after applying OptiCoat and not in a cleaning fashion, but made multiple passes. That is not per ANY directions you have EVER recieved from us. You CAN use PS to remove any thick areas, but why would you not limit your working area to the high spot...and continue to polish a fresh coating? Are you not aware that any polishing will remove some material...be it paint or coating? If you want to fix a high spot, you only need to put some PS on a hand applicator and work the area a small amount. And when applying PS as maintenence, use it like a wax which means even coverage and no pressure. A little common sense will go a long way.

If you read the original thread, you will find that I was in an experimental mode. In experimental mode, I been known to attempt things that some people may find weird. That is why I call it experimental mode. I’m not trying to justify anything – just reporting back on what I found. I can’t claim that all experiments are successful and the results may or not be of use to others – but does it really matter if someone attempts something that maybe others haven’t. My full time job is programming and I can assure you, the time I take off every year to experiment with various algorithms has been amply rewarded over the years. To be honest there has been some complete stuff ups too. I find it is not too much of a stretch to apply the same principals to paint correction.

You admittedly push the limitations and boundaries with all of your product testing, but when used withing OUR RECOMMENDED USAGE there will be no issues. I really think your posts hurt more than help any "normal" detailer as most people use products per directions and don't waste time testing the limitations and "what you can get by with."

After contacting me and Dr. G and getting the same answer that it was user error in your case, I'm not sure why you continue to post this misinformation unless you have a hidden agenda.
 
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