I have used it and it actually works really well. I'm not exactly sure how the technology works but trust in the brand name and thus the chemist behind it. I tend to prefer the panel wipe approach for chemically stripping paint versus running a machine over an entire car [again] after having already performed one machine polishing process (polishing), or in some cases, 2 machines processes, compound and the polishing.
Yes. I think it may be 24 hours, I don't have a bottle in front of me at this moment to read the directions.
Keep in mind, waiting 12 to 24 hours for any quality car wax or synthetic paint sealant is also a normal good rule of thumb.
The big picture is AFTER applying "something" - don't DISTURB it while whatever Voodoo Magic is going to take place does in fact take place.
Make sense?
Yes. You can use any quality panel wipe.
Good question.
It's dummy-proof or as I like to say, Bubba-Proof, in that it's easy to use and in fact EASIER to use than a conventional ceramic paint coating where you apply using a foam block and a patch of microfiber suede.
It's also Bubba-Proof in that it's very easy to wipe-off and leaves the paint slippery.
So coatings may wipe off easy but leave the paint feeling rubbery, as though your towel grabs the paint - at this point it's hard to push or wipe the paint with a towel and this would make it more difficult to remove a high spot.
I've discovered high spots on cars I've detailed where I've had to use polish to abrade the high spots off. I have an article on this somewhere with great pictures.
I think as long as you focus on the task at hand, that is mist and wipe, you won't have a problem with high spots.
I'd go with the BLACKFIRE Coating Booster
It comes in a 32 ounce bottle, which because this is usually a high-use product you're going to want a volume of product at a good deal.
Use right after wash with clean microfiber towels. It's water-based, not solvent based and this means it will remove any fine water marks left over from your drying chamois.
I haven't seen a problem with towels becoming unusable. Correctly used you're wiping off very little solids. If in doubt, simply make a small wash load and was everything immediately. That's what I try to do but I also separate all my microfiber towels so I usually have a load of similar towels ready to wash at any given time. As you've probably read, I'm a huge fan of the Forrest Green Edgeless towels we sell here at Autogeek.
You can handle this and you're really going to like it. Probably the most important thing is to wash your car well first and if it needs to be clayed, then clay first.
My immediate assumption would have been to use WGU SiO2 as maintenance for the spray coating. WGU SiO2 is safe for plastics. I protects smooth plastics and not sure the protection but does not show up on softer plastic trim, from what I’ve seen.
