Rookie mistake, need help

When you rub the pad with compound over the area do you see the color of the paint transfer back to the pad?
 
Thanks. So, I'm just curious. If those dark spots (really just one odd shaped spot at this point) are not the clearcoat, what else could they be? Looks like primer isn't necessary after more research. Just scuff it, paint it, polish it.

Would anyone recommend buying a cheaper DA Polisher from Harbor Freight? I am just a guy that wants to make his vehicles look as good as possible so I don't/won't spend a ton but also don't want a hunk of junk. Reviews are decent for Chicago Electric 6 inch for like $70 bucks. Or I could get a Griots 6 inch for $137 shipped through Amazon or this site probably. I probably will use it a few times in next few weeks and then probably only 3-4 times a year.
 
I recall seeing some grey on orange pad, yes. I'm attaching another close up photo. Seems like most of the car is plastic, including this piece I worked on. Photo didn't work, sorry.
 
You talking about this guy? [I'm the 1 on the left]
View attachment 49294

Darren's vids are full of great tips and advice. [IMO they're the best source of quality information presented by someone without a script or a camera crew] I've learned alot from watching Darrens vids and always look forward to the videos he uploads to youtube.. But you have to keep in mind that he's a seasoned veteran when it comes to auto detailing, a guy like him can make something like de badging emblems on a luxury car look easy because he's a master of the craft.

If you've seen him use a Magic Eraser it's usually for oddball tasks like removing scuffs from interior panels, cleaning tar off the lip of a wheel, removing transfer from a plastic mirror, etc.. But when he's going straight to the paint with it, you best believe his experience comes in handy.

I've never used Chemical Guys V32, but if it's supposed to be a cutting compound it sure doesn't sound too great.. Reason I say that is because I've removed a bunch transfer on numerous vehicles by hand using just Ultimate Compound and a microfiber applicator. The stuff has never failed me.

View attachment 49296

View attachment 49297

I still think there's a chance you haven't struck through the clearcoat. We're all novices at 1 point, and I think any novice deserves a free pass. Good luck!


I enjoy his vids as well. Used his trick with Magic Eraser on scratches under door handles today on a Tundra detail.
 
The same hand he's giving thumbs up with, yes.����
Looks like he survived.��

Yeah, most asinine thing ever, to put on the internet. Maybe he should jump off a bridge in another video "see, that wasn't so bad!"
 
My question is, how did I go through clear coat? An orbital polisher is supposed to be very safe and I only used my hand. With just an orange cutting pad and V32, I started to get through clear??? I've seen videos of people hand wet sanding out a scratch using several passes until you can't see scratch again and simply add a few steps of Polish afterwards and no problem with clear. I sanded with a magic eraser, that should have been safe. Do you guys think this area was polished before and thus was weak? Now I'm scared to touch the rest of the car.

It's a matter of pressure and pressure points. When you sand with any type of tool, the pressure is distributed over the whole area of the pad. When you do it by hand, it is very easy to concentrate all the pressure on a single point (usually where your finger tips are) and have 20-50 times more pressure on that spot than you would have with a DA. This is why when sanding, it is better to use a block than just using the sand paper. Pros knowing that can work around it and make sure we don't create pressure point but if you are unaware of this, it is really easy to do damage. Correcting by hand takes longer and is more difficult, but you can achive just as much correction as you would using a power tool.
 
While I'm hesitant to say you went through the clear, that comment about using a Magic Eraser on paint couldn't be farther from the truth.. I once tried using a Magic Eraser as a last resort in order to remove some extremely stubborn tree sap and ended up with a small dull spot on the paint. [went through the clearcoat] It's a good thing I only did a small test spot.. It's also a good thing it wasn't a showcar or anything crazy like that. I'll never use a Magic Eraser on paint again.

Magic Eracers work really well on things like paint transfer. You just have to be very careful using them. I use them as I would sand paper. As for using them on tree sap, that's not something effective. Alcohol is the best tree sap remover. And regarding going through clear, are you sure? Magic Eracer mare (sp?) the paint, so you have to compound and polish afterward. It might just have been a dull spot caused by the marring (same as when you wetsand).
 
The same hand he's giving thumbs up with, yes.����
Looks like he survived.��

Read up on Hydrofluric acid, it's nasty stuff. It might not kill you right away but it attacks the heart and other organs, he might develop serious conditions later on in life he is exposed to it often.
 
Here is what Wikipedia has on it regarding health:

Health and safety[edit]





A hydrofluoric acid burn of the hand

left and right hands, two views, burned index fingers


HF burns, not evident until a day after
In addition to being a highly corrosive liquid, hydrofluoric acid is also a contact poison. It should therefore be handled with extreme care, using protective equipment and safety precautions beyond those used with other mineral acids. Owing to its low acid dissociation constant, HF as a neutral lipid-soluble molecule penetrates tissue more rapidly than typical mineral acids. Because of the ability of hydrofluoric acid to penetrate tissue, poisoning can occur readily through exposure of skin or eyes, or when inhaled or swallowed. Symptoms of exposure to hydrofluoric acid may not be immediately evident, and this can provide false reassurance to victims, causing them to delay medical treatment.[9] Despite having an irritating odor, HF may reach dangerous levels without an obvious smell.[5] HF interferes with nerve function, meaning that burns may not initially be painful. Accidental exposures can go unnoticed, delaying treatment and increasing the extent and seriousness of the injury.[9] Symptoms of HF exposure include irritation of the eyes, skin, nose, and throat, eye and skin burns, rhinitis, bronchitis, pulmonary edema (fluid buildup in the lungs), and bone damage.[10]

Once absorbed into blood through the skin, it reacts with blood calcium and may cause cardiac arrest. Burns with areas larger than 160 cm2 (25 square inches) have the potential to cause serious systemic toxicity from interference with blood and tissue calcium levels.[11] In the body, hydrofluoric acid reacts with the ubiquitous biologically important ions Ca2+ and Mg2+. Formation of insoluble calcium fluoride is proposed as the etiology for both precipitous fall in serum calcium and the severe pain associated with tissue toxicity.[12] In some cases, exposures can lead to hypocalcemia. Thus, hydrofluoric acid exposure is often treated with calcium gluconate, a source of Ca2+ that sequesters the fluoride ions. HF chemical burns can be treated with a water wash and 2.5% calcium gluconate gel[13][14][15] or special rinsing solutions.[16][17] However, because it is absorbed, medical treatment is necessary;[11] rinsing off is not enough. Intra-arterial infusions of calcium chloride have also shown great effectiveness in treating burns.[18]

Hydrogen fluoride is generated upon combustion of many fluorine-containing compounds such as products containing Viton and polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) parts.[19] Hydrofluorocarbons in automatic fire suppression systems can release hydrogen fluoride at high temperatures, and this has led to deaths from acute respiratory failure in military personnel when a rocket-propelled grenade hit the fire suppression system in their vehicle.[20] Hydrofluoric acid can be released from volcanoes, sea salt aerosol, and from welding or manufacturing processes.[5]

Hydrofluoric acid is also a highly reactive compound and must be stored carefully to prevent dangerous reactions, though it is not flammable. It reacts with bases, acids, and oxidants and attacks glass, ceramics, concrete, some forms of plastic, rubber, and coatings. When combined with methanesulfonic acid or polymerizing cyanogens, it produces explosive gases.[5]
 
Magic Eracers work really well on things like paint transfer. You just have to be very careful using them. I use them as I would sand paper. As for using them on tree sap, that's not something effective. Alcohol is the best tree sap remover. And regarding going through clear, are you sure? Magic Eracer mare (sp?) the paint, so you have to compound and polish afterward. It might just have been a dull spot caused by the marring (same as when you wetsand).

Well , look at the dark, almost black spots in the photo.View attachment 49303
 
Ya that made me cringe when he did that. I think he simply doesn't know how dangerous Hydrofluoric acid really is.

At the recommended 4:1 dilution ratio, how much straight hydrofluoric acid is in a 32oz. dispensor bottle?

Reason I ask is because you could probably find some pretty spooky facts about fluoride. As a matter of fact, it clearly states on every single tube of toothpaste if you accidentally swallow more than used for brushing you better contact poison control right away... But I don't see anyone not brushing their teeth with it every single day.
 
Magic Eracers work really well on things like paint transfer. You just have to be very careful using them. I use them as I would sand paper. As for using them on tree sap, that's not something effective. Alcohol is the best tree sap remover. And regarding going through clear, are you sure? Magic Eracer mare (sp?) the paint, so you have to compound and polish afterward. It might just have been a dull spot caused by the marring (same as when you wetsand).

Alcohol did absolutely nothing to help remove this tree sap. I tried D120 @10:1 and @1:1, then I tried 2 different forms of hand sanitizer, let them dwell on the tree sap for a while and they did nothing. Next was straight 70% isopropyl alcohol, absolutely nothing to remove the tree sap. Magic Eraser struck through the clearcoat.. Finally I had to bear through it with aggressive clay and it took a good long while.This truck had been sitting under a tree for basically years..

View attachment 49304

It was a PITA to restore the shine to this truck.

View attachment 49305

But I got it dun. With my HF DA.

View attachment 49306

50/50 shot.

View attachment 49307
 
Does HF stand for Harbor Freight? I hate abbreviations... If so which one do you have and do you recommend it?
 
At the recommended 4:1 dilution ratio, how much straight hydrofluoric acid is in a 32oz. dispensor bottle?

Reason I ask is because you could probably find some pretty spooky facts about fluoride. As a matter of fact, it clearly states on every single tube of toothpaste if you accidentally swallow more than used for brushing you better contact poison control right away... But I don't see anyone not brushing their teeth with it every single day.

C'mon man, toothpaste may have sodium fluoride in it, but that's not hydrofluoric acid. Did you know that water has two hydrogen atoms in each molecule? Do you know how flammable hydrogen is?? They used if for the fuel in the main engines of the space shuttle! So let this be a lesson to you--keep flame away from water because it's highly flammable because it's 2/3 hydrogen!

If only chemistry was a simple as you make it.
 
What if we told you that you might not feel an HF burn on your hand until the next day, and that even if you did, that running water over it for 15 minutes would do nothing to neutralize it?

You made this comment the other day when we were having a similar discussion about Wheel Brightener.^

With all due respect, you could say anything you want about how it will supposedly burn my hand and even if you were to run water over it for 15 minutes it would do nothing to neutralize it... But that's just talk.

Darren proved your claim to be completely wrong. He actually speaks from experience [unless you actually believe he was suffering uncontrollable burns the following day] I'm sorry but I don't think he'd be stupid enough to do that to himself.

Who's word is credible in this situation? Darren who speaks from actual experience? Or someone who simply read an MSDS sheet?

...Sprays his hand soaking wet and continues filming his vid, describing how his arm isn't going to burn up or fall off due to "acid"

Or someone who "says" my hand would suffer severe burns if Wheel Brightener makes contact with skin...

I'll go with the actual proof and experience, thank you.
And as far as running down the street or gutters where the kids ride their bikes.. Have you ever heard of a situation where any harm has actually occurred due to this? No, you haven't. Because the truth is that if even someones pet dog would turn up severely ill due to any product from any detailing manufacturer, that company would be in hot water. But you don't hear about things like that happening, because in the real world your far fetched stories don't actually happen.

How did we even get on this subject again? Why do you always hate on Darren? I mentioned him to OP because of Magic Erasers, not to get in this debate about acid based wheel cleaners. Lol.
 
Okay, I'm gonna purchase a DA, (I was going to anyways) and hit it with some polish and a proper polishing pad and see what happens. If no results, I guess I'll try getting paint from dealer? Or should I look into Dr. Colorchip kit?? I heard people talk about Blender as well and saw a video where they are mixing clear with the base coat. Should I consider those ideas or just touch up, put down a spray clear, and then polish? Thanks

Also, is blender something you get from dealer? Is it one type for all colors? Lol, I'm totally clueless.
 
Back
Top