Rotary guys, what RPM do you use when removing heavy swirls?

anywhere between 1200-1800 depending on the compound, the pad, the area of the car, the PTG readings etc. With 105 I normally run right around 1500, Power Gloss about 1800, and Four Star HCC about 1500.
 
That depends on which product I am using, if I am using Poorboy's SSRs I run it at around 1800 RPM so that it breaks down properly plus the working time is much longer than some other polishes.

Recently I started using M-105 and tried those speeds and it didn't work at all so after reading up on it I discovered that around 1000-1100 RPM is working the best for me with a spritz of water on the panel half way through the buffing cycle to reactivate the product.

I was amazed at how fast M-105 corrects at those speeds with the misting of water on the panel half way through the cycle.

I was using an orange LC VC 6" pad.
 
tuscarora dave said:
That depends on which product I am using, if I am using Poorboy's SSRs I run it at around 1800 RPM so that it breaks down properly plus the working time is much longer than some other polishes.

Recently I started using M-105 and tried those speeds and it didn't work at all so after reading up on it I discovered that around 1000-1100 RPM is working the best for me with a spritz of water on the panel half way through the buffing cycle to reactivate the product.

I was amazed at how fast M-105 corrects at those speeds with the misting of water on the panel half way through the cycle.

I was using an orange LC VC 6" pad.
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Wow, Meguiars recommends 1500-2000 with M105. Does SSR3 break down fairly quickly? Does it cut and finish as well as M105?
 
Cool. I didn't realize such low RPM's with M105 can do so good!
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
Cool. I didn't realize such low RPM's with M105 can do so good!
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I've been out in the studio working with the new Flex PE 14 and the new 1-Pad System pads and was effectively removing defects at 600 RPM with the most aggressive wool cutting pad and M105


Just testing, not stating this is how I do it or how anyone should do it... just testing as this is a very aggressive wool pad.

Normally I stay right around 1400 to 1500 RPM for cutting with a compound. Heat isn't good or necessary for abrasives or paint, it's an unwanted by-product of the process.

When working with diminishing abrasives, it's not the heat that is needed it's pressure over time. The result of pressure over time to a contained area is heat.


:)
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
Does SSR3 break down fairly quickly? Does it cut and finish as well as M105?
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They tell me that SSR3 is Rocks in a bottle so I never bought or even tried it. when I was buying Poorboy's Products I went with SSR 2.5 for defect removal and with the rotary it breaks down within 3 to 4 section passes at 1500-1800 RPM.
 
Thanks guys! I'm really enjoying my Flex 3403! Feels much less "violent" than the 3401. Wow!
 
tuscarora dave said:
They tell me that SSR3 is Rocks in a bottle so I never bought or even tried it. when I was buying Poorboy's Products I went with SSR 2.5 for defect removal and with the rotary it breaks down within 3 to 4 section passes at 1500-1800 RPM.
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Pressure on the first couple passes, then lighten up?
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
Pressure on the first couple passes, then lighten up?
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I never really bothered to lighten up on the pressure but rather moved on to SSR 2 or SSR 1.

I would say that I apply slightly more than the weight of the machine when working with the SSR line.
 
With the flex "lightweight" should I add a couple hundred RPM's because it's not as "powerful"? I use the recommended size pads(no bigger than 6"), so should it still spin what it says on the speed dial?
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
Pressure on the first couple passes, then lighten up?
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When working on lighter colored vehicles or paint finishes that were just lightly swirled I would use SSR2 and do it how you suggest above. I really have not needed to move on to SSR 1 after using SSR2 with the rotary. If the paint is on the softer side SSR2 is my favorite polish while using the rotary.
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
With the flex "lightweight" should I add a couple hundred RPM's because it's not as "powerful"? I use the recommended size pads(no bigger than 6"), so should it still spin what it says on the speed dial?
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My answer to this question would be that your results will most likely vary with different paint characteristics and that you should test different speeds in you test section to see what works best for you.

My Makita doesn't bog much at all with pressure aplied and I haven't used the Flex machine so I couldn't offer an accurate answer.
 
tuscarora dave said:
My answer to this question would be that your results will most likely vary with different paint characteristics and that you should test different speeds in you test section to see what works best for you.

My Makita doesn't bog much at all with pressure aplied and I haven't used the Flex machine so I couldn't offer an accurate answer.
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Thanks. The Flex surprisingly doesn't bog down much at all!!
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
With the flex "lightweight" should I add a couple hundred RPM's because it's not as "powerful"? I use the recommended size pads(no bigger than 6"), so should it still spin what it says on the speed dial?
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There's no reason to, no. My experience with the 3403 is that it's got plenty of power and won't bog down at all as long as you're using smaller sized pads (which you are) and not putting a ton of downward pressure on it. Even though it's lighter, I find letting the weight of the machine do the work to still be effective.
 
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