Royal Purple Oil and Filter

I use Royal in the Lambo and Porsche, change at 2,500 mi or 6 months. They purr like kittens
 
In my mind it's no different than choosing Pinnacle Sovereign or a Swissvax product. Apples to apples, just some folks are more comfortable spending the extra money. On the level of high quality products wax is wax and oil is oil.:bolt:
 
ShaunD said:
Not trying to start an oil war, just giving my experience and hoping others will not suffer the same way I did with RP.
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Suffer? By your own account, you didn't check it, ran it low, and seized the motor. That's operator error, not the fault of the oil.
 
I thought about buying RP because it is held in such high regard. But I don't feel that running RP in a 2.2L S10 will have that much of a benefit over Valvoline, especially since I don't drive in any adverse/extreme conditions. Valvoline and a K&N filter seems to be the best combo for me.
 
I heard royal purple was recommended for turbos that's what I heard and I don't har a turbo soo... I use valvoline full synthetic with Bosch filters and change every 5,000 but my car usually says 45%-50% oil life left at the time I change it but I do it anyway.
 
ryanmcg1 said:
I heard royal purple was recommended for turbos that's what I heard and I don't har a turbo soo... I use valvoline full synthetic with Bosch filters and change every 5,000 but my car usually says 45%-50% oil life left at the time I change it but I do it anyway.
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Try a NAPA Gold (WIX), K&N, or Mobil 1 filter on your next change. You may notice a difference. Just a suggestion, not bashing the Bosch.:props:
 
At that price it is about the same as what you can by Mobil1 at a wholesale club or have AMSOIL's XL synthetic shipped to you at preferred customer cost. And with Mobil1 and AMSOIL they show better test results for longer intervals.
If you run an oil that has high scoring test results for rust inhibitors/corrosion prevention, then you can still let the oil sit in the engine for the extended interval without issue. AMSOIL and Mobil1 would qualify IMO of the testing I've seen.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Suffer? By your own account, you didn't check it, ran it low, and seized the motor. That's operator error, not the fault of the oil.
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No, I didn't let it run low, I checked the oil and added as required and at the end of a 600 miles trip with under 4,000 miles on the oil in service the engine seized. I say was partly my fault for trusting the oil companies claim and not researching how turbo engines can consume synthetics like RP. Subaru covered the rebuild of my STi motor under extended warranty, so if it truly would have been my fault then they would have not covered it. Also, at the time I was unaware that the turbo oil screen was an issue and Subaru never checked it either. On most occasions when I noticed the oil low I would change the oil, but at the time of the engine seizing I was not able to change the oil so added oil(Mobil 1), and the engine seized. My point was that the intervals claimed by RP are not for every vehicle and driving condition, and most racers are probably changing the oil well before the intervals the company recommends. Ignorance was my fault but lack of information provided to gain the knowledge I needed to prevent what happened to my engine wasn't completely my fault. I'll admit fault and say that I learned a lot from then, and am just trying to share with others to help out.
All oils are not created equal and test prove that. Oil pricing is not a sign of the best oil available. Just like with wax.:)
 
it is a great oil, but for the price point has a pretty low sheering resistance.
 
jpegs13 said:
I use Royal in the Lambo and Porsche, change at 2,500 mi or 6 months. They purr like kittens
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Yikes.... thats about 20 gallons of oil every time ehh? lol I know the porsche has a big belly for oil, can only assume the same for the raging bull.
 
Is your Corvette under warranty? The reason I ask is, although Royal Purple is surely good enough, it has not passed GM Corvette certification. So if there was a problem with the motor, they might have reason to hassle you about it. Im not saying GM would deny it, but the local dealer might have a harder time getting it approved quickly.
 
I always get RP at Wally world 8.50 a quart. Did they come out with new stuff ? The new beefy bottle has
Some new logos and certifications on it check it out
 
Mobil one is proven itself over and over again. The bigger picture here is: once your RP is not on sale anymore..are you willing to keep paying the extra money for RP? I am a firm believer in keep your vette the same thing it is used to.
 
Tundra_10 said:
Yikes.... thats about 20 gallons of oil every time ehh? lol I know the porsche has a big belly for oil, can only assume the same for the raging bull.
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Cheaper than a motor job :xyxthumbs:
 
Motogoon said:
I always get RP at Wally world 8.50 a quart. Did they come out with new stuff ? The new beefy bottle has
Some new logos and certifications on it check it out
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I don't believe it is "new stuff", but RP was basically brought up on false advertisement by BP and had to change there ads along with get current test done to meet ILSAC GF-4 standard. This doesn't necessarily mean they improved the oil, just that it was tested and proved that is meets GF-4 standard. RP is new to the automotive market for synthetic oil and had to correct themselves to match the standards and advertisement regulations; this started in 2009.
 
ShaunD said:
No, I didn't let it run low, I checked the oil and added as required and at the end of a 600 miles trip with under 4,000 miles on the oil in service the engine seized. I say was partly my fault for trusting the oil companies claim and not researching how turbo engines can consume synthetics like RP. Subaru covered the rebuild of my STi motor under extended warranty, so if it truly would have been my fault then they would have not covered it. Also, at the time I was unaware that the turbo oil screen was an issue and Subaru never checked it either. On most occasions when I noticed the oil low I would change the oil, but at the time of the engine seizing I was not able to change the oil so added oil(Mobil 1), and the engine seized. My point was that the intervals claimed by RP are not for every vehicle and driving condition, and most racers are probably changing the oil well before the intervals the company recommends. Ignorance was my fault but lack of information provided to gain the knowledge I needed to prevent what happened to my engine wasn't completely my fault. I'll admit fault and say that I learned a lot from then, and am just trying to share with others to help out.
All oils are not created equal and test prove that. Oil pricing is not a sign of the best oil available. Just like with wax.:)
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Never heard of turbo engines consuming oil:dunno:. Never had to add any additional oil to my 300+ hp nissan 240. My oil change intervals were 3k-5k miles. Ran a bb turbo. If I had another turbocharged vehicle, i wouldn't hesitate to use RP again.

Also heard great results from RP Syncromax tranny fluid, although i ran Red Line on my 240, and OEM Honda for my recent car.
 
Consuming may be the wrong term. Dissipate is probably more accurate as the oil is actually vaporizing, known as the volatility rate of oil based on the NOACK volatility test. RP loses an average of 11.2% of its starting weight compared to AMSOIL on losing an average of 5.7% of its weight during testing. I didn't know this was something that was sped up in turbo motors like the STI and only compounds with the life of the oil, especially if pushed past 5,000 miles in service. RP is meant to be changed on a shorter interval especially in severe conditions, which I over looked when using it and put faith in it that it would hold up. I also was unaware that the filter should have been changed every few thousand miles if pushing the oil past 5,000 miles. And RP is intended for shorter service intervals like in race settings, which it is intended. All things I will keep in the forefront of my mind when it comes to my engines now and servicing them.
If I have another turbo vehicle I will run AMSOIL in it as soon as it broken in and have the oil tested every so often to make sure things are normal. If RP was cheaper and I was racing a car I might think about it, but that will probably not occur. Mobil 1 and AMSOIL are the only two oils I will be using from here out.
 
ShaunD said:
Consuming may be the wrong term. Dissipate is probably more accurate as the oil is actually vaporizing, known as the volatility rate of oil based on the NOACK volatility test. RP loses an average of 11.2% of its starting weight compared to AMSOIL on losing an average of 5.7% of its weight during testing. I didn't know this was something that was sped up in turbo motors like the STI and only compounds with the life of the oil, especially if pushed past 5,000 miles in service. RP is meant to be changed on a shorter interval especially in severe conditions, which I over looked when using it and put faith in it that it would hold up. I also was unaware that the filter should have been changed every few thousand miles if pushing the oil past 5,000 miles. And RP is intended for shorter service intervals like in race settings, which it is intended. All things I will keep in the forefront of my mind when it comes to my engines now and servicing them.
If I have another turbo vehicle I will run AMSOIL in it as soon as it broken in and have the oil tested every so often to make sure things are normal. If RP was cheaper and I was racing a car I might think about it, but that will probably not occur. Mobil 1 and AMSOIL are the only two oils I will be using from here out.
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What were your oil change intervals at with rp? And yes, i would not really go rp unless im really pushing the car. I will say amsoil #1. Can't go wrong with amsoil or m1.
 
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