Rupes Mille

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

One more self promoting comment and then I have to move on....


One of the best things about any of my classes is you get to use so many tools. One of the most common comments from the people that take my classes is how they like that in my class, they get to use all the hot tools on the market and MAKE UP THEIR OWN MIND as to which tool is best for them.

I'll show you how to use it. I'll even show you how to make it dance on paint. You get to use them all on REAL cars, not demo-hoods, and you get to USE THEM - not sit in chairs. This is why in my 2-day roadshow classes we EASILY detail 10 cars in 2 days in and in my 3-day classes we do 11 to 15 cars in 3 days.

It's ALL hands on. I get it that there's different ways to learn and some people learn best by looking at power point presentation on the wall, if that's you, then find that type of class. But if you learn best by doing, not sitting in a chair, when you see one of my classes coming up, get signed up.

And this leads me to another reason a LOT of people take one of my classes, they WANT to use all thee different tools BEFORE they buy the tool and then invest in the pads and chemicals. If you choose wrong because you've never actually buffed out a car using the tools you just bought, now you're stuck with it. When you take my class - you know what you like and you know what you don't want to buy. That's a real benefit. And while the class cost money, it saves you time and money. You start out happy. You cannot put a price on "happy".


Info on all my classes here



That's it for me guys... do as you will...


:buffing:

 

[MarkD51]

You got it, Mark. I'm Mark as well. Gear driven polishers are fantastic because you NEVER have to worry about pad stall. However, the polishing experience is not nearly as enjoyable as a free spinning DA. Remember, this is my opinion, but there's many others that will agree with me as well, and some that won't. The best option would be to have a long throw and gear driven DA. However, when spending that kind of money, make 100% sure in your choice. You may go back and decide to purchase the Mille, but I'd suggest looking into the Super Beast as well. I don't know for sure, but I bet you Mike Phillips would take the Super Beast over the Mille. Happy New Year!

Thank you again Mark!
I have three Polishers, the PC7424XP. Baby Griots GG3, and also own a Griots Boss-15. So I guess the Boss-15 covers a long throw Polisher.

I cannot tell you how many posts I've read about the Flex 3401VRG. One common observation, is that the Aluminum Shroud can get pretty hot.

This might be seen as a minus, but in another way might also be a plus. In that the Aluminum Shroud acts as a Heat Sink, possibly a unseen benefit by drawing heat from internal Drive Gears, Bearings, etc.

I've yet to see much in the way of a comparo of the Beast vs Supa Beast, but would be some interesting reads I'm sure.
I note some calling this new model the Super 3401, but probably not the correct name as I've noted in the Store here.

It seems the Supa Beast has addressed Backing Plate sizes, it appears to be that the smaller 4-7/8" Backing Plate is a better match with any/all 5.5" Pads.

I'll need to study some more, research this newer model, and it's qualities-features. I'll assume the Supa Beast also has a Counter-Clockwise rotation as the 3401VRG, correct?

Again, thanks for your help, and a big tip of my hat to Mike Phillips as well for chiming in here. Will have to read through this all again to absorb further knowledge and information.

 

[WRAPT C5Z06]

No problem, Mark. The Super Beast supposedly fixes the heat issue of the 3401. Different ergonomics as well, and more convenient backing plates sizes. Yes, it’s counterclockwise just like the VRG. After trying the clockwise gear driven polishers, I saw not benefits. Again, just my opinion.

Disclaimer: Mike is a very fair person. I was not suggesting he promotes one brand over another. We all have preferences, however.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Disclaimer: Mike is a very fair person. I was not suggesting he promotes one brand over another. We all have preferences, however.

Here's something I say to people all the time, it's in a tone of joking --> :laughing:


But all good humor is based in truth. Here's what I tell people and I believe it, live it and practice it,


I'm an equal opportunity exploiter. It if works, I'll show it. If it doesn't, I simply wont' show it. -Mike Phillips


Here's the context of the above,

In my classes, I will not show products that I would not use on my own car. I will not show products that I would not use on a black car. I will not show products I know can cause damage.


The first rule of professional car detailing,

First do no harm to the car


The second rule is ethics and it's,

Match your services to your customer and their car.

That simply means, don't oversell people services they don't need. I recommend my Package 1 more than my Package 2 for most of my customers. But if they want or insisit on a ceramic coting then I hope it's Package 2 as I hate doing Package 3.



Back to my saying, if it works, I'll show the hell out of it. That doesn't mean I like it, but it's not about me, it's about you. I like the people that attend my class to get the FULLEST experience and that means THEY get to use everything I show in the class. Because I only show products, tools, pads and TECHNIQUES that I know work I have NO FEAR in any situation. None. Zero. I'm always dialed-in and confident in my presentation and training.


I don't really like using the Mille OR the Makita PO5000C, but I'll show them all day long because they work. Just to note, when I do use any brand of 5mm gear-driven tool, I will tend to use thicker foam pads than thin foam pads, the tools seems to buff smoother this way. My caveat is I need to re-visit and spend more time with the Mille and the larger 150mm backing plate, (that's a 6" backing plate to us knuckle draggers), and the larger Mille 165mm pads, (that's 6.5" to us knuckle draggers) as I think these actually buff smoother than the smaller pads. And just to add, I prefer the 6" backing plate on the BEAST and the SUPA BEAST with the 6.5" pads versus the 5" backing plate with 5.5" and 6" pads. Now I'm going deep but I want to be fair and transparent as my way of helping others looking for information before spending money.

I would choose the Mille, in most cases, over any free spinning tool simply because my buffing style is to get the job done as fast as I can and for this reason I don't have time for pad stalling. I love buffing with the RUPES BigFoot 21 Mark III when I'm doing finishing work because it's so smooth but more important because it leaves such a dang-near perfect finish. There's something to be said for long-stroke on the finishing side of the equation. Much so more than short stroke and much so more than short stroke gear-driven.


But most of the time, when I'm buffing out cars professionally, that means I'm getting paid to buff out someone's toy, I will grab the SUPA BEAST for power, speed, correction and finishing. If I were not so lazy I would start with the SUPA BEAST and finish with the FINISHER or the RUPES BigFoot 21 Mark III, but this would mean grabbing another tool off the shelf, yada yada yada.... I'm way to in a hurry or way to fast for that, I grab one tool and GO!


Also - at all my classes at MTE this year I'm going to share my own secret technique for knocking out cars fast. I use it and I share it. It works.



But to Mark's comment,

I'm a fair person, also honest when presenting information on the AG forum and any social media touch point.

 

[Dan Tran]

It’s true what they say, “Different strokes for different folks.”

I would totally pay for Mike’s class just to try out ALL the machines on the market alone—let alone the valuable information that Mike teaches.

Opposed to some, I found the RUPES Mille to be a smooth machine. I had tried “The Beast” before I went with the Bigfoot polishers way before the RUPES Mille was introduced and can only remember not liking “The Beast”.

Now that I have more hands on experience as a professional detailer, I would love to revisit the FLEX forced-action tools just because.

 

[MarkD51]

All great info, and I and I'm sure others deeply appreciate all these comments, and personal likes and preferences.

Been in the game long enough, when there was nothing, except a Rotary, the human hand was about it otherwise!

I think you'll all agree, it's the person, the trained hand and eye that gets it done.

Just like a musical instrument. You could take BB King, Stevie Ray Vaughan, Alvin Lee, hand them a $100 guitar, and it will sing like a million.

Same true with probably a $60 Harbor Freight DA, the right accessories like Pads and Polishes to go with, and an experienced detailer, they'll make the best of such, and come away with outstanding end results.

How I wish I had a "lowly" Harbor Freight DA 40 some years ago! LOL

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Opposed to some, I found the RUPES Mille to be a smooth machine.

And just to point out - it is a smooth machine. My observations about it jerking or pulling the polished around is when you move the polisher from one plane to a different plane.

Same happens for The BEASTS and the Makita PO5000C.


Am I the only person on Earth that refers to the gear-driven Makita tool by its proper name?


Note to tool makers - give your tools names people will use - not “part numbers”.


Sheesh.... I’m not even a meeting expert or a YouTube Influencer, yet here I am educating major tool companies on how to go to market with new tools?


Where’s my consulting commission?



:laughing:

 

[Dan Tran]

And just to point out - it is a smooth machine. My observations about it jerking or pulling the polished around is when you move the polisher from one plane to a different plane.

Same happens for The BEASTS and the Makita PO5000C.


Am I the only person on Earth that refers to the gear-driven Makita tool by its proper name?


Note to tool makers - give your tools names people will use - not “part numbers”.


Sheesh.... I’m not even a meeting expert or a YouTube Influencer, yet here I am educating major tool companies on how to go to market with new tools?


Where’s my consulting commission?



:laughing:

Is it too late to retract my previous statement? Perhaps I’ll cast my opinion when I can be in the position to try them both side by side.

And yes, I am confident you are probably the only person to refer to the Makita by its actual name.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

And yes, I am confident you are probably the only person to refer to the Makita by its actual name.

As a writer - it’s natural to type accurately.

My observation is most people don’t type accurately. I’m sure it’s not intentional as most social media touch points are casual. It’s hard to turn it off - that is typing accurately.

Crosses over to all communications too.

:dunno:

 

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Opposed to some, I found the RUPES Mille to be a smooth machine.

I IS a smooth machine, in that there's very little vibration. HOWEVER, I still feel it will try to walk on you MORE than the 8mm 3401.

 

[PEAD19]

Here's something I say to people all the time, it's in a tone of joking --> :laughing:


But all good humor is based in truth. Here's what I tell people and I believe it, live it and practice it,


I'm an equal opportunity exploiter. It if works, I'll show it. If it doesn't, I simply wont' show it. -Mike Phillips


Here's the context of the above,

In my classes, I will not show products that I would not use on my own car. I will not show products that I would not use on a black car. I will not show products I know can cause damage.


The first rule of professional car detailing,

First do no harm to the car


The second rule is ethics and it's,

Match your services to your customer and their car.

That simply means, don't oversell people services they don't need. I recommend my Package 1 more than my Package 2 for most of my customers. But if they want or insisit on a ceramic coting then I hope it's Package 2 as I hate doing Package 3.



Back to my saying, if it works, I'll show the hell out of it. That doesn't mean I like it, but it's not about me, it's about you. I like the people that attend my class to get the FULLEST experience and that means THEY get to use everything I show in the class. Because I only show products, tools, pads and TECHNIQUES that I know work I have NO FEAR in any situation. None. Zero. I'm always dialed-in and confident in my presentation and training.


I don't really like using the Mille OR the Makita PO5000C, but I'll show them all day long because they work. Just to note, when I do use any brand of 5mm gear-driven tool, I will tend to use thicker foam pads than thin foam pads, the tools seems to buff smoother this way. My caveat is I need to re-visit and spend more time with the Mille and the larger 150mm backing plate, (that's a 6" backing plate to us knuckle draggers), and the larger Mille 165mm pads, (that's 6.5" to us knuckle draggers) as I think these actually buff smoother than the smaller pads. And just to add, I prefer the 6" backing plate on the BEAST and the SUPA BEAST with the 6.5" pads versus the 5" backing plate with 5.5" and 6" pads. Now I'm going deep but I want to be fair and transparent as my way of helping others looking for information before spending money.

I would choose the Mille, in most cases, over any free spinning tool simply because my buffing style is to get the job done as fast as I can and for this reason I don't have time for pad stalling. I love buffing with the RUPES BigFoot 21 Mark III when I'm doing finishing work because it's so smooth but more important because it leaves such a dang-near perfect finish. There's something to be said for long-stroke on the finishing side of the equation. Much so more than short stroke and much so more than short stroke gear-driven.


But most of the time, when I'm buffing out cars professionally, that means I'm getting paid to buff out someone's toy, I will grab the SUPA BEAST for power, speed, correction and finishing. If I were not so lazy I would start with the SUPA BEAST and finish with the FINISHER or the RUPES BigFoot 21 Mark III, but this would mean grabbing another tool off the shelf, yada yada yada.... I'm way to in a hurry or way to fast for that, I grab one tool and GO!


Also - at all my classes at MTE this year I'm going to share my own secret technique for knocking out cars fast. I use it and I share it. It works.



But to Mark's comment,

I'm a fair person, also honest when presenting information on the AG forum and any social media touch point.

Thanks for all the info Mike! Was close to buying the new supa beast but all I have is 5.5" LC force hybrid pads and I see you like the 6.5" pads better. Might just buy it anyways and then grab some 6.5" pads at a later time. Got to be better than my HF polisher.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

It IS a smooth machine, in that there's very little vibration.

I agree too - on a flat panel, with your pad centered, both 5mm tools are very smooth.

HOWEVER, I still feel it will try to walk on you MORE than the 8mm 3401.

I only notice this when moving from one plane to another. Once you get to the next plane, it's back to being smooth - assuming you're holding the pad flat to the surface and this holds true for the BEAST also.

Thanks for all the info Mike! Was close to buying the new supa beast but all I have is 5.5" LC force hybrid pads and I see you like the 6.5" pads better.

The corded BEASTS - both the original 3401 and the Supa Beast have the power to turn and churn the larger size pads. My prefence is to cover real-estate and as much of it as I can. Thus this article,


Why I call the FLEX 3401 the BEAST! by Mike Phillips


It does help to have some upper body strength and I've always belonged to a gym and worked out and recommended the same to anyone that wants to detail cars or boats. There's just something to be said for a little muscle to show any tool who's the boss.

Might just buy it anyways and then grab some 6.5" pads at a later time. Got to be better than my HF polisher.

Dan Tran added this,

It’s true what they say,

“Different strokes for different folks.”

And it's accurate. The thing is, you really don't know if you're going to like one of the really cool tools on the market now days until you spend some time behind it. Not to beat a living horse, but that's what people like about my classes. You get LOTS of hands-on time with all the tools, you don't sit in a chair or watch the instructor use the tools - it's all about you.

I've seen so many people at the start of one of my classes talk about how their excited to test out a specific brand and model, but after testing out all the brands and models they found they didn't like what they thought they would like and ended up really liking what they didn't think they would like.

You just don't know until you spend some hours with any tools. Hours. Buffing out flat panels and curves. Using compounds, polishes and AIOs.

 

[PEAD19]

I agree too - on a flat panel, with your pad centered, both 5mm tools are very smooth.




I only notice this when moving from one plane to another. Once you get to the next plane, it's back to being smooth - assuming you're holding the pad flat to the surface and this holds true for the BEAST also.





The corded BEASTS - both the original 3401 and the Supa Beast have the power to turn and churn the larger size pads. My prefence is to cover real-estate and as much of it as I can. Thus this article,


Why I call the FLEX 3401 the BEAST! by Mike Phillips


It does help to have some upper body strength and I've always belonged to a gym and worked out and recommended the same to anyone that wants to detail cars or boats. There's just something to be said for a little muscle to show any tool who's the boss.






Dan Tran added this,




And it's accurate. The thing is, you really don't know if you're going to like one of the really cool tools on the market now days until you spend some time behind it. Not to beat a living horse, but that's what people like about my classes. You get LOTS of hands-on time with all the tools, you don't sit in a chair or watch the instructor use the tools - it's all about you.

I've seen so many people at the start of one of my classes talk about how their excited to test out a specific brand and model, but after testing out all the brands and models they found they didn't like what they thought they would like and ended up really liking what they didn't think they would like.

You just don't know until you spend some hours with any tools. Hours. Buffing out flat panels and curves. Using compounds, polishes and AIOs.

Would he nice to try the new tools out at one of your classes but I am working 60+ hrs at my day job and raising a family. I know its a gamble buying a nice new tool without trying it out, but really dont have a choice. Thats why i have been researching all i can atm. Have you ever held any classes in central IL, or plan too?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Have you ever held any classes in central IL, or plan too?

I've held classes in Illinois twice.

When we talk specific cities, I always figure if I've shipped 1300 pounds of tools to an offsite location (no one else in the industry does this), then I'm close enough.

It's always going to be closer than driving to South Florida.