scratches stand out

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driller41

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new guy here.. theres so much info on here its awesome, have been lurking for a while but havent found what ive been looking for..

so heres the deal, i have two dark metallic blue ford superduty pickups that get used, they have scratches, thats fine with me. its a pickup. but i do like to take care of my paint and wax it and still have it look good.

the few various deeper scratches they have just stick out like a sore thumb after waxing and it brings out all the little deeper scratches. like fills em with the left over white residue.

if i asked any ol billy bob in this town what the remedy for this is, they would say colored wax.

i am just curious if i stepping up to non off the shelf waxes would fix this or what the heck?

i wax by hand too if it helps, never really taken power tools to my paint and not sure if i should ( we have an old ass two handle DA)

would love any advice! thanks guys! great place :props:
 
I would contact a local professional detailer. Have them repair the scratches if they aren't past the clear coat. Then I'd suggest having the car polished and coated. Those are big trucks. Might as well coat them and then just maintain them with routine washing.
 
some are. and i can live with the big ones, but it brings out all the little ones! and yes i had that done on my personal rig, this is how my question came about, and it was great, till i screwed up one time and didnt dry the pickup after i washed it. i chased the hell out of those water spots, had to do a scratch remover, then polish and wax. now all these white lines are driving me bonkers!

i am having trouble finding a good reputable detailer in this area also
 
Can you get your finger nail in the scratches? If you can not much you can do really except repaint.
 
There's not a set up that doesn't leave a white residue? Like some sort of sealant or carnauba or synthetic wax?
 
If you strip the wax off with a Dawn wash then do a good claying, then polish, even with your 2-handle DA it'll help. Just don't get aggressive as what you're trying to do is just clean it up a bit.

Glaze will help fill the scratches and won't turn white so much as hand rubbed wax but it's not the solution. Some of the liquid waxes these days like Megs Ultimate are more of a sealant than an actual 'wax'. It also isn't so critical on the trim. Megs M21 2.0 is also a great sealant that shouldn't leave white residue on the paint itself if removed properly, but be CAREFUL not to get it on the trim.

Other higher end sealants along the lines of Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant and Blackfire Crystal Seal that are of the WOWA type, (Wipe On Walk Away) will not leave white residue at all.

And of course a coating would the ultimate solution. But ONLY after the paint has been corrected. It'd just be a waste if you're not going to compound and polish.
 
thank you for the great info guys...

im feeling like im in over my head..
 
Pictures would help us give a better answer. It is a little hard to understand if your scratches are so deep that there is no color behind them....as in all the way through the clear coat and base coat. If that is the case only re-painting the car will fix them.

On the other hand maybe they aren't that deep but deep enough that you aren't removing the wax from them when you buff off the hazed up wax. If that is the case you could try a little harder to get the wax out of them....or use a different wax, like a liquid wipe on/wipe off type.

They do make kits where you can add matching paint to those scratches and then compound/polish them out and restore looks. They take some effort but it is possible for you to do the work yourself.

Really all depends on how deep they are and what you want to end up with. Be a shame to let it go untill you have rust set in.
 
sorry guys. not sure if i am doing this right. but here is my personal pickup. (sorry for bad pics, pickup its dirty and it rained last night)


here is one example of a scratch down that all paint has been removed and white residue left behind from wax. i could definitely get my fingernail in er.


here is one that drives me nuts... this is the basis of my question! its not chipped down to bare metal, yet might be pretty deep.



here are some smaller examples of residue making little scratches stick out.



i hope i did this right.. sorry for bein a newb and thanks for keeping patients with me guys!
 
heres what i used on the pickup to try and fix my water spot mess up.


i first tried the water spot remover and was not happy with the results, proceeded to try the compound with less results, so i stuck out the pain staking process with the water spot remover.

i then tried a small spot with the polish with my two handle DA and found it to help so i proceeded to do the rest of the pickup


i then used the wax, waxed by hand. idk why but i found it easier that way.
 
Where are you located? if you want you can give me call.
 
about 20 min east of Salem OR.

i just think it the pickup might be in better hands if a professional did the ol cut buff/polish... whatever the steps are and some sort of sealant and ill just wax the beans out of her when it needs. but then the question would be what kind of wax and what process. haha
 
driller41 said:
heres what i used on the pickup to try and fix my water spot mess up.
http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/dylbob4/media/IMG_20131103_112339_610_zps79ebc8a3.jpg.html

i first tried the water spot remover and was not happy with the results, proceeded to try the compound with less results, so i stuck out the pain staking process with the water spot remover.

i then tried a small spot with the polish with my two handle DA and found it to help so i proceeded to do the rest of the pickup


i then used the wax, waxed by hand. idk why but i found it easier that way.
Click to expand...

I'd say the compound (UC) would easily provide the best results, but only with a DA. By hand it'd never finish out well enough. At least not before you rubbed so long your arms were worn down to your elbows.

By hand Ultimate Polish (UP) should do pretty darned good. Just would take a lot of good ol' elbow grease. :)

You can find Ultimate Wax in liquid form, and there is a black bottle Ultimate Spray Wax that is more of a sealant than a wax. It is a VERY good product in it's own right, and exceptional for something that you find in a typical auto parts store.:props:

Keep a bottle of that handy and use it after you've washed and dried. Once you've gotten most of the water off you can start spraying it and use to complete your drying and avoid water spots.

I may get shot around these parts, but for a DD that's a work truck, Eagle 1 "wax as you dry" will get you a long way from having to worry about water spots. ;)
 
cardaddy said:
I'd say the compound (UC) would easily provide the best results, but only with a DA. By hand it'd never finish out well enough. At least not before you rubbed so long your arms were worn down to your elbows.

By hand Ultimate Polish (UP) should do pretty darned good. Just would take a lot of good ol' elbow grease. :)

You can find Ultimate Wax in liquid form, and there is a black bottle Ultimate Spray Wax that is more of a sealant than a wax. It is a VERY good product in it's own right, and exceptional for something that you find in a typical auto parts store.:props:

Keep a bottle of that handy and use it after you've washed and dried. Once you've gotten most of the water off you can start spraying it and use to complete your drying and avoid water spots.

I may get shot around these parts, but for a DD that's a work truck, Eagle 1 "wax as you dry" will get you a long way from having to worry about water spots. ;)
Click to expand...

so i used the DA for the water spot remover, compound, and polish. just to clarify

i bought some drying materials and bought some of that quick detailer stuff too.

so you think i should switch to the ultimate spray wax? then use the eagle 1 when i dry?

i must admit.. right after i spent a week trying to chase down the water spots.. i made the same damn mistake! washed it and didnt have a good way to dry it... so i buzzed over to the auto parts store and snagged some quick detailer to hopefully get the minerals off before everything actually dried on good. (it was august). m

my thoughts: screw well water and dark metallic blue.
 
i dont think my DA is the right set up for the UC or UP... seems like the grinder type set up would work better.. so thats why i might not have been liking the results i got... so this next spring the best option i think might be to take it to a professional again and have the works done and actually wax and wash/dry correctly. :xyxthumbs:
 
driller41 said:
i dont think my DA is the right set up for the UC or UP... seems like the grinder type set up would work better.. so thats why i might not have been liking the results i got... so this next spring the best option i think might be to take it to a professional again and have the works done and actually wax and wash/dry correctly. :xyxthumbs:
Click to expand...

Ahhh, so you don't have the DA as we'd call it now. You've got what we'd call the "wax spreader". Maybe like this?
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ditional-orbital-buffer-aka-wax-spreader.html
WaxSpreader02.jpg


Well water is gonna' kill you every time. You could get a filter that works wonders.
Deluxe Clean Water Filter Kit, 2 step water filter system, water filter for car washing, inline hose filter

twofence.jpg

Or even better, one of these. :)
CR Spotless Rolling De-ionized Water Filtration System, deionization system, water de-ionizer, purified water systems, cr-spotless, spot free rinse,
autogeek_2270_108106899


Short of that, dry as soon as you wash with a dedicated leaf blower. You can grab a nice 12amp one for under $75 and it's really worth it to chase away water spots.

Between that and a drying agent you'll do pretty well. Come to think of it, if you can find Duragloss 951 Aquawax that is probably the best overall bet. (It's 951 in the spray bottles and 952 by the gallon.) You can spray it directly on a wet surface, use a decent microfiber to dry with, say a plush 360 to 400 minimum and it'll not only work as a drying agent but provide a really silky slick surface for several weeks.

If I have to choose it's either DG951, Megs D156 (the pro line of Ultimate Spray Wax) or Ultimate Spray Wax itself. The first two I use on most everything!
 
yep indeedy i have what you would call a wax spreader.

ill look into that dura gloss. only thing is these rigs have a lot to cover and by the tim i finish washing the darn thing is almost dry!

so im not sure if i need a wax as you dry type deal.

anyhow what would these products your recommending with making scratches popping out?
 
When you are washing your vehicle, be sure to keep it wet throughout the process. When they are drying too quickly I will wash a panel, then rinse the whole vehicle to keep it from drying. It might a a few extra minutes of time during the wash, but will make it much quicker compared to polishing water spots.

I also second the in line water filter. It has made my jobs much easier and I'm less worried about spots, but I only use it for my final rinse. The refill cartridges can get a bit pricey using it constantly.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online
 
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