Screwed up big time. burned paint?

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photony83

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Hey i was using a DA polisher with lake country CCS orange pad with Meg 105 on a 2014 subaru to remove a decent size scratch. I had my polisher on the highest setting and i think i burned the paint trying to get the scratch off. The pad had paint residue on it so i am assuming i cut through the clear.

1) Besides a full repaint what are my options?
2) Can i try to apply a clear coat back?

Thanks for any help in advance.
 
Looks like strike through.

I had a practice panel that I tried respraying with clear coat in a can. It could have been me, but it didn't turn out well.
 
You have to know the limitations on situations like.that.Feel sorry for you but now you will learn and avoid mistakes like that.
 
Needs paint now.....once the clear and paint are gone you basically have no other choices IMHO....pictures make these type of call difficult..
 
dlc95 said:
Looks like strike through.

I had a practice panel that I tried respraying with clear coat in a can. It could have been me, but it didn't turn out well.
Click to expand...

I gooned up the trunk of a black 2005 Mazda 3 with a GG6, M101 on purple foamed wool. It's a bitter pill when ya see that paint on the pad. Scuffed/sanded/resprayed with Duplicolor rattle can products...Earl Scheib Quality results. Was trading car in so no big deal but still quite a crappy experience.

Subaru paint is especially delicate...
 
One of my previous employers would call that a "Bernie Over-buffer."

Unfortunately, looks like a repaint is your only option. Clearing over a burn through will not yield good results IMO.

Best of luck with the situation!
 
Sorry to hear that this happened. Hopefully not a customer car as I'd much rather learn on my own. Scratches like that can be a challenge, but I rarely use a buffer from the start on bad ones. I'd rather lightly wet sand a small area and then buff back, always being careful when doing so. Get a paint gauge too. I religiously take measurements on 2-3 points for every panel noting them on the intake form. I also use it in situations like this. Often you'll find that particular area is thinner in paint than in other areas thus providing you an even greater heads up on care to be taken.

My lesson learned was on a door handle. Twice. First time I just barely burned through the paint thinking I could buff the inside of a door handle with the buffer. Wrong, cleared the edges badly. Thankfully I was able to touch up and blend ot the owners satisfaction. The next time I bumped the buffer on a protrusion and the backing plate hit the paint. There too, I had to break out some touch up. In both cases the owners were very cool about it.
 
OUCH! Looks like you went through the CC. Subie paint in general is really soft. Let us know the outcome.
 
photony83 said:
Hey i was using a DA polisher with lake country CCS orange pad with Meg 105 on a 2014 subaru to remove a decent size scratch. I had my polisher on the highest setting and i think i burned the paint trying to get the scratch off. The pad had paint residue on it so i am assuming i cut through the clear.

1) Besides a full repaint what are my options?
2) Can i try to apply a clear coat back?

Thanks for any help in advance.
Click to expand...


Definitely next time Wet the scratch to see if it hides away. If it does not the scratch is through the clear (into base or sheetmetal), if the scratch is just in the clear, next time wet sand across the scratch with 1000 Grit. That will do most of the work and reduce the reflective edge, then you have m105 and 205.

Your not or of luck, If you wet sand and prep that panel a body shop shouldn't charge you too much to throw some clear on. Find someone local that you know, go early afternoon when they are painting. Prob $100-$150. Thank goodness you did not go through the base coat which is even thinner, then your getting into metallic blending of base and clearing surrounding panels. Good lesson, paints vary in softness, when combined with ambition, well, you get my point. Lets us know what you do?
 
Ps: I like wool on deep scratches over foam, for cutting. Slow down sir.... Find out of the paint is soft or not you think this is bad, I see messed up Toyotas all the time
 
BudgetPlan1 said:
I gooned up the trunk of a black 2005 Mazda 3 with a GG6, M101 on purple foamed wool. It's a bitter pill when ya see that paint on the pad. Scuffed/sanded/resprayed with Duplicolor rattle can products...Earl Scheib Quality results. Was trading car in so no big deal but still quite a crappy experience.

Subaru paint is especially delicate...
Click to expand...

So true...

I used a rotary since 1998 - never any issues. My first time with a PC 7424xp, green hex pad, and Ultimate Compound - Strike through.... It was on my neighbor's hot rod too... :(
 
I just looked at those pics again, hows the front bumper paint condition?
 
That totally sucks but a base AND clear repaint (w/ blend) is needed to fix that properly unfortunately. Not a cheap fix if done right. I bought a $2K ultrasonic paint depth gauge many years ago since I work on a lot of collector cars with questionable history. Got a call from a guy today that said he cut and polished his 2012 Yukon every 3 months since new, wonder that the paint readings on that car are going to be ; )
 
Looks as though you kept the polisher in one spot, or didn't move it much at all.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks everyone for the responses. This is my first Subaru. I have been only been used to BMW, Honda, and Toyotas. I am just an enthusiast, not pro.

This is fortunately my own car which i had bought 3 hours prior to this happening. I really didn't think the paint was this thin but honestly i probably stayed in one spot too long. I can live with it as is for now since there are small blemishes all around the car. This is the reason why i don't like to buy new cars. So much heartache when i get that first scratch and the initial depreciation of a new car is something i have learned to ignore. I wish it was on the passenger side so i didn't have to look at it everytime i get in the car.

I really don't want to repaint this yet and honestly its not that noticeable unless you look directly at the panel. If i ever need another accident repair in the future then i will have them do this panel too.

I just polished the rest of the car today and no other problems. I was careful not to put so much pressure and used M204 with mild white cutting pad. This L fender and hood was the worst panel. I seems to be highway car since i could like 50 small rock chips on the hood. The bumper seems to have repainted recently bc its rock chip free, which doesn't make sense unless it was repainted.

In the mean time should i try to apply clear at least to protect the base coat? or just put a sealant over it?
I know not to expect perfect results without a full respray but do you guys think putting clear on it will make it a little better or just make it worse?
 
Yeah I would at minimum seal what's left of the base with clear coat, use at minimum 2k clear, Amazon is a good source or auto body supply. Careful light coats, it loves to run, spray bombs are iffy. after cure and wetsand it may level out nice after machine polishing. Sounds like you may want to eventually refinish the hood. Clear bra is great if you do and plan to keep the car. You will find better satisfaction if a good body shop painter does the repairs.
 
How did you manage that? Where you polishing 1 spot for a long time or were you using it like normal? What polisher?
 
When I hit a swinging gate bar and put a big scratch in my hood, they did not even paint the entire hood. The fixed the spot, matched the paint, then clear coated the entire hood. It matched pretty well until I they had to redo because the repair was visible about 6 months later. I hit a deer a year later and that repair was excellent including matching paint and reforming front bumper.
 
Sorry this happened. Did you try less aggressive procedures first? That was a pretty aggressive setup for a Suburu. Unfortunately many of us learn many lessons the hard way. Just have to look at this as a learning experience.
 
Sorry to see this man. Looking at the pictures is painful and I feel bad for you. Hopefully not a customer vehicle. I was on the fence about whether to purchase a paint gauge but now, I am all in.
 
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