Sealant options

Burns ST

Burns ST

New member
Joined
Jul 4, 2013
Messages
107
Reaction score
0
I'm looking to buy a new bottle of sealant. Im currently using CG m-seal as a LSP and I've had good results. I put a coat on last fall and seemed like it lasted all winter. Just wondering if there is a better option. My car is bright white - no flake - so I prefer sealants for the gloss over wax providing glow. I looked at Jetseal 109 but I've read conflicting reports about its durability. Wolfgang Deep Gloss 3.0 seems to be a crowd favorite but I'm concerned about the instructions saying don't let the finish get damp for 12 hours after application. I park on the bottom level of a parking garage, which tends to feel damp for a few days after it rains. I don't want to mess up the bond. Or can it just not get rained on during that cure time? Opinions appreciated.
 
I like Opti-Seal, easy to apply and you can layer it after a couple of hours.

HUMP
 
How about Blackfire Wet Diamond? Top it with 2 coats of Crystal Seal 6-8 hours after and you'll have a real nice glassy shine (3-4 hours between CS coats). The combo could get you at least 6 months of protection and CS is so so easy to apply, you could put another coat or 2 on after 3-4 months.

I think most sealants recommend keeping it dry for 12-24 hours after application (or it is at least widely practiced). I don't think dampness would be a problem unless it actually condensates on your paint.
 
I do get some fog on my glass as I drive out of the garage, is that enough condensation? I've never seen a sealant that specifically says don't get it wet during cure time, so it caught my attention. The nights here are still cold so I'm sure that contributes to my dark parking garage, I probably wouldn't be applying anything till July so hopefully it'll be completely dry.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
 
as long as water doesnt touch the surface, it being in a damp area is fine. and to be honest, it'll be fine after a few hours you don't need a full 12 to cure.
 
WGDGPS 3.0 is great. I enjoy applying it and removing it every single time. You really have to wait a few hours to let it "cure" to really see what it's going to look like though. And just keep it from wet/damp conditions for a couple of hours, you don't HAVE to wait the 8-12 as suggested, but I certainly wouldn't take it out into a rainstorm before that time frame is up.
 
zexel said:
WGDGPS 3.0 is great. I enjoy applying it and removing it every single time. You really have to wait a few hours to let it "cure" to really see what it's going to look like though. And just keep it from wet/damp conditions for a couple of hours, you don't HAVE to wait the 8-12 as suggested, but I certainly wouldn't take it out into a rainstorm before that time frame is up.
Click to expand...
^^^I must respectfully disagree^^^

For optimum results:
WGDGPS 3.0 needs to cure for 12 hours in dry conditions to fully cross-link, and bond to the paint. No exposure to any moisture during this cure-time.

Why go directly against the manufacturer's directions?!?!

Bob
 
FUNX725 said:
^^^I must respectfully disagree^^^

For optimum results:
WGDGPS 3.0 needs to cure for 12 hours in dry conditions to fully cross-link, and bond to the paint. No exposure to any moisture during this cure-time.

Why go directly against the manufacturer's directions?!?!

Bob
Click to expand...

I'll respectfully disagree. :dblthumb2:Manufacturers put those suggestions for the general public, so they achieve optimal results. For us geeks, a few hours is fine. I have topped and exposed WGDGPS after 5 hours, and it was fine.
 
There are sooo many options out there. A few traditional sealants that you will hear often here..

Menzerna Powerlock
WGDGPS
BF Wet Diamond
Four Star
 
cleanmycorolla said:
I'll respectfully disagree. :dblthumb2:

Manufacturers put those suggestions
for the general public, so they achieve optimal results.

For us geeks, a few hours is fine.

I have topped and exposed WGDGPS after 5 hours, and it was fine.
Click to expand...
You have got to be kidding!! :dblthumb2:

Bob
 
I remember once reading something by Todd H. From ACC (hope I'm remembering and paraphrasing him correctly); that like 98% of the "cross linking" or whatnot happens quite fast with BFWD AFPP and the "12 hour rule" is is quite long. I'm guessing it's similar with WG DGPS.

From what I've observed, these sealants are quite tough. I wouldn't worry about a little bit of water affecting them. Just try and get them out of your applicator pad with water - or almost any other chemical for that matter.
 
Lots of good options, it all depends on what you want:
Speed and ease of application - Optimum Opti-Seal
Looks - Four Star Ultimate Paint Protection or Blackfire Wet Diamond
Longevity - Duragloss 105 + 601

The truth be told all of the above look good and are fairly easy to apply.

If I may throw in some curve balls (i.e. non-traditional sealants) take a look at CarPro HydrO2 and Gtechniq C2v3. HydrO2 is applied with water and C2v3 you can get wet immediately post application. Gtechniq's claims of eight month durability are perhaps a bit optimistic but you should get five months plus out it which equals or exceeds most of the above as well as M-Seal.
 
I've been doing some research on Sonax Polymer Netshield over the past 2 weeks and it seems like a serious sleeper. It's on sale as well this month.
 
FUNX725 said:
^^^I must respectfully disagree^^^

For optimum results:
WGDGPS 3.0 needs to cure for 12 hours in dry conditions to fully cross-link, and bond to the paint. No exposure to any moisture during this cure-time.

Why go directly against the manufacturer's directions?!?!

Bob
Click to expand...

Bob,

And I'm fine that you disagree. In most cases, I do follow manufacturer directions. And, if you would please re-read the end of my post, I clearly stated that I certainly would not take it out into a rain storm. Is it best that it cures for 12 hrs? Of course and typically I schedule mine this way. Although, if he cuts it a few hours short and the customer needs to pick the vehicle up or the OP needs to go to work, taking it out in a mist an hour or two prior to the 12 hour window isn't going to ruin the finish entirely.
 
CDot said:
I've been doing some research on Sonax Polymer Netshield over the past 2 weeks and it seems like a serious sleeper. It's on sale as well this month.
Click to expand...


Sonax Polymer Netshield is the bomb.

Later, follow-up with Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer. It's all you will ever need.

(Dropped the mike and walked off):urtheman:
 
zexel said:
Bob,

And I'm fine that you disagree. In most cases, I do follow manufacturer directions. And, if you would please re-read the end of my post, I clearly stated that I certainly would not take it out into a rain storm. Is it best that it cures for 12 hrs? Of course and typically I schedule mine this way. Although, if he cuts it a few hours short and the customer needs to pick the vehicle up or the OP needs to go to work,

taking it out in a mist an hour or two prior to the 12 hour window isn't going to ruin the finish entirely.
Click to expand...
Please believe me...
It's really not that I'm "picking-out/picking-on" you or any of your responses (I have expressed my disagreement to others, in regards to cure-times, as well)...

Over and above all:
I suppose it's my reluctance in accepting that another facet of Polymer Science is, seemingly, destined to meet its fate as being considered just another detailing myth. :(

Bob
 
Menzerna Powerlock, Blackfire, Pinnacle Black Label, Wolfgang are all great products and you will be happy with any of them. I prefer the Menzerna Powerlock.
 
JHL88 said:
There are sooo many options out there. A few traditional sealants that you will hear often here..

Menzerna Powerlock
WGDGPS
BF Wet Diamond
Four Star
Click to expand...

Good list. I'll throw Meg's M21 into the mix.
 
FUNX725 said:
Please believe me...
It's really not that I'm "picking-out/picking-on" you or any of your responses (I have expressed my disagreement to others, in regards to cure-times, as well)...

Over and above all:
I suppose it's my reluctance in accepting that another facet of Polymer Science is, seemingly, destined to meet its fate as being considered just another detailing myth. :(

Bob
Click to expand...

Bob,

I don't believe you are singling me out at all, I always enjoy reading your responses. That is when I can read them through all of the commas, semi-colons, and other symbols you use. LoL
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top