Sealant over Glaze?

Ted S.

Ted S.

New member
Joined
Feb 10, 2011
Messages
1,746
Reaction score
0
I've read some stuff about glazes only lasting a day or so. I've also read that a sealant put over glaze will extend the life of the glaze. But then I read that sealants will usually remove a glaze. :confused:

I've come to a conclusion: I read too much crap. What are y’all’s experiences with a sealant applied over a glaze? If it doesn't remove the glaze, how much longer will the sealant add to the life of the glaze?

I ask because I've been interested in giving glazes a try, but the day or so lifespan has been keeping me away from them.
 
If all goes well, this will be my weekend project. I'm gonna use Poorboys Black Hole and top the hood with Duragloss 111 and the roof with Wolfgang DGPS.
 
Technically...your supposed to do an IPA wipe down prior to laying down sealant. A glaze in most cases is meant to hide imperfections. But, when you do an IPA wipedown...you're stripping the fillers, wax, or oils from the glaze.

You could not do an IPA wipe down and keep the advantages of the glaze...but it's going to compromise the sealant. Sealant sticks much better to clean paint.

If I were you I would just use a polish, then do an IPA wipe down, THEN do sealant. That way the imperfections are polished out and not just hidden. AND, you get full protection of the sealant.
 
a nuba can go over the glaze so it will last as long as the nuba does

I got natty blue paste to go over PBBH. Agree with Kris, sealants work best on clean paint.

Doesn't mean you can't do it but the sealant would probably last longer if you didn't use the glaze
 
For me it's just a test. I want to experiment. For some cars a polish step is not an option.
 
TornadoRed said:
Thin paint.
Click to expand...

Well, thin paint can be polished. Wouldn't want to compound it...but it can be polished. I prefer to use a DA instead of a rotary in that case.

Glaze and polish are very similar outside of the fact that Glaze tends to have filling capabilities. At least I always thought so. Some polishes have fine cutting ability...but, you can use a fine polish on thin paint using a foam finishing pad and be completely safe IMO.
 
I would prefer polish over glaze but my thinking is that a glaze is non-abrasive while a polish is abrasive and removes (a tiny bit of) paint. If you have polished many times or even wetsanded OEM paint there's bound to be point where you just can't remove any more paint.
 
TornadoRed said:
I would prefer polish over glaze but my thinking is that a glaze is non-abrasive while a polish is abrasive and removes (a tiny bit of) paint. If you have polished many times or even wetsanded OEM paint there's bound to be point where you just can't remove any more paint.
Click to expand...

True. There's always fine finishing polishes. :dblthumb2:
 
TornadoRed said:
I would prefer polish over glaze but my thinking is that a glaze is non-abrasive while a polish is abrasive and removes (a tiny bit of) paint. If you have polished many times or even wetsanded OEM paint there's bound to be point where you just can't remove any more paint.
Click to expand...
I'm in the same boat on one of my cars with only about 85 mics. so I stick with Black Hoe or Wet Glaze.
 
I really dont get the anti-glaze sentiment over the detailing forums here...it seems to signify improper ethic and unprofessional conduct..

I see it as a faster and economical way to detail a car..faster meaning you dont need to work it in hard to get results as applying glaze is almost like applying a wax..Economical in terms you dont need to invest in a machine..play it anyway you want but proper polishing needs at least a DA.

if you like a darkening deep wet look on a metallic paint there's no better way to achieve it but to use a polish that has lots of oils in it...

On topic a traditonal glaze uses petroleum oils in it that doesnt bond too well with a sealant..you may get the sealant look the first day or two but since it cant bond to the paint the durability will be short. Most well known traditional glaze is Megs #7

If you want to top with sealant you'd get better luck with modern glazes with acrylic base such as poorboy black hole, danase wet glaze or cg ez creme glaze.. That's why many people recommend to use sealant and glaze from 1 manufacturer to ensure compatibility such as poorboys ex-p sealant over poorboys black hole

What glaze and what sealant are you thinking about ? in any case applying a glaze and a sealant is a breeze...give it a shot..if you dont like it you can go polishing the car the next weekend
 
sulla said:
I really dont get the anti-glaze sentiment over the detailing forums here...it seems to signify improper ethic and unprofessional conduct..

I see it as a faster and economical way to detail a car..faster meaning you dont need to work it in hard to get results as applying glaze is almost like applying a wax..Economical in terms you dont need to invest in a machine..play it anyway you want but proper polishing needs at least a DA.

if you like a darkening deep wet look on a metallic paint there's no better way to achieve it but to use a polish that has lots of oils in it...

On topic a traditonal glaze uses petroleum oils in it that doesnt bond too well with a sealant..you may get the sealant look the first day or two but since it cant bond to the paint the durability will be short. Most well known traditional glaze is Megs #7

If you want to top with sealant you'd get better luck with modern glazes with acrylic base such as poorboy black hole, danase wet glaze or cg ez creme glaze.. That's why many people recommend to use sealant and glaze from 1 manufacturer to ensure compatibility such as poorboys ex-p sealant over poorboys black hole

What glaze and what sealant are you thinking about ? in any case applying a glaze and a sealant is a breeze...give it a shot..if you dont like it you can go polishing the car the next weekend
Click to expand...

I have nothing against glazes. I use them allllll the time. I use Malco Glaze II on a regular basis cause some of my packages include a one step machine buff sing a glaze. Works great, leaves a good finish, and customers love it. :dblthumb2:
 
sulla said:
If you want to top with sealant you'd get better luck with modern glazes with acrylic base such as poorboy black hole, danase wet glaze or cg ez creme glaze.. That's why many people recommend to use sealant and glaze from 1 manufacturer to ensure compatibility such as poorboys ex-p sealant over poorboys black hole

What glaze and what sealant are you thinking about ? in any case applying a glaze and a sealant is a breeze...give it a shot..if you dont like it you can go polishing the car the next weekend
Click to expand...

I was thinking pb white diamond and collinite #845 on top. But as Kris satated, the sealant may not adhere to the glaze, which was one of my worries, next to the sealant wipping the glaze off.
 
@Kris
I see.. I agree with you on that.. Many people dont even see swirls and waterspots on paint as a problem.. My dad is the best example of this he can stand swirls on his paint but hates dirty crevices and blurred windshield.. As long as i make the crevices shine and polish his windshield he could care less about swirls

@Ted
I think you should be fine.. 845 isnt a sealant it's a wax..
 
Kristopher1129 said:
Technically...your supposed to do an IPA wipe down prior to laying down sealant. A glaze in most cases is meant to hide imperfections. But, when you do an IPA wipedown...you're stripping the fillers, wax, or oils from the glaze.

You could not do an IPA wipe down and keep the advantages of the glaze...but it's going to compromise the sealant. Sealant sticks much better to clean paint.

If I were you I would just use a polish, then do an IPA wipe down, THEN do sealant. That way the imperfections are polished out and not just hidden. AND, you get full protection of the sealant.
Click to expand...

:iagree:
 
sulla said:
@Kris
I see.. I agree with you on that.. Many people dont even see swirls and waterspots on paint as a problem.. My dad is the best example of this he can stand swirls on his paint but hates dirty crevices and blurred windshield.. As long as i make the crevices shine and polish his windshield he could care less about swirls

@Ted
I think you should be fine.. 845 isnt a sealant it's a wax..
Click to expand...
Ha, shows you how much I know about this stuff.Im the MANIm the MAN
 
sulla said:
@Kris
I see.. I agree with you on that.. Many people dont even see swirls and waterspots on paint as a problem.. My dad is the best example of this he can stand swirls on his paint but hates dirty crevices and blurred windshield.. As long as i make the crevices shine and polish his windshield he could care less about swirls

@Ted
I think you should be fine.. 845 isnt a sealant it's a wax..
Click to expand...
845 is a hybrid - it's sealant and wax.
It's a candy mint, no it's a breath mint. It's 2 mints in one.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top