Shining up an old truck

H

hogie

New member
Joined
Sep 18, 2013
Messages
297
Reaction score
0
I know this truck is anathema for most of the shiny paint loving people on this site, but I had to pick it up. I know Mike loves Meg's #7 for rejuvenating single stage paint, however I don't have any on hand. Does anyone know if 3M Imperial Hand Glaze will serve the same function of "nourishing the paint" before any polishing?

Also, has anyone tried Iron X or another ferrous attacking wheel cleaner on rust stains like these? A large number of people recommend hitting the rust with CLR and some scotch bright pads (which sounds mighty harsh).

The frame is rock solid, other than the steering wheel and missing headliner the interior is excellent it just has toasted paint. Luckily there are only a couple of rust spots that went all they way through on the tailgate, hood, and one fender.

Thanks
 
hogie said:
I know this truck is anathema for most of the shiny paint loving people on this site, but I had to pick it up. I know Mike loves Meg's #7 for rejuvenating single stage paint, however I don't have any on hand. Does anyone know if 3M Imperial Hand Glaze will serve the same function of "nourishing the paint" before any polishing?
Click to expand...


Any oil will bring back "color" to old single stage paint, heck even salad oil will but I wouldn't use it.

What makes #7 unique, that means not line other products or other "oils" in other products is the oil itself is unique.

What it does is bring out the full richness of color in the pigments.

If you read my original article on this topic note the word in red text in the first or second paragraph. That's what the technique is all about.


over wise, just hit her with anything, compound, polish or a good cleaner/wax.

You can even wash it with a wash cloth and some Bon Ami or even Comet and that will remove the oxidation.

Anyone and anything will remove the oxidation and reveal a fresh base layer of paint.


I grew up driving a 1965 Ford 3/4 ton truck so pretty cool truck you have there.

Have fun with it...


:)
 
hogie said:
Also, has anyone tried Iron X or another ferrous attacking wheel cleaner on rust stains like these? A large number of people recommend hitting the rust with CLR and some scotch bright pads (which sounds mighty harsh).
Click to expand...


I wouldn't use an iron remover on the exposed metal portions.

Take "whatever" it is you're going to buff the paint with and buff over the rust sections.

If it were me I would choose a rotary buffer or a FLEX 3401 with a wool pad and either a compound or a strong cleaner/wax for the rusted areas. Just buff till the rust is gone and you'll end up with shiny metal. Then just keep using a cleaner/wax on them and you can keep the metal shiny.

:)
 
Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, I don't have anything quite as powerful as you mentioned. I currently have a GG6 with a set of Megs cutting and polishing microfiber pads. I only have one orange Lake county pad and I think it would get demolished by the more rough areas. But will give it a go.

I do have a very old metal cased black and decker rotary, but I have no idea how old it actually is and don't have any pads or backing plates for it. It still works though, and I have used it to buff up some aluminum.

I am not expecting it to look amazing, but the blue has a bit of gloss to it still and would like to minimize the rust a bit.
 
hogie said:
I currently have a GG6 with a set of Megs cutting and polishing microfiber pads. I only have one orange Lake county pad and I think it would get demolished by the more rough areas. But will give it a go.
Click to expand...

That will work.

Simply do this first.

Get a can of Comet or Bon Ami and a normal, simple 100% Cotton Terrycloth Wash Cloth, or any old wash mitt will actually do.

Mix up some soap water in a bucket and then dunk your wash mitt into the soapy water. Next, sprinkle on some Comet or Bon Ami, you can also sprinkle it right onto the body panel you want to wash.

Then scrub like heck!

Scrub, scrub scrub. Also scrub the heck out of the rusted portions. Probably have to scrub a lot longer and a lot more to the rusted portions. If it were me, I would leave the major rusty portions rusty and just address whatever paint is left on the truck.

The Comet or Bon Ami will work like a compound along with the terry cloth or wash mitt and somewhat gently abrade off the years of oxidation. I've done this dozens of times in my life, it actually works really well and the best part is you can remove all of the old oxidation during a thorough wash job cutting hours out of the machine steps.

Next, take your MF discs and get a good one-step cleaner/wax. Machine buff the paint with the cleaner/wax. Do a test for micro-marring as it's possible even with old single stage for the individual fibers of a microfiber pad to micro-mar the hell out of the paint.

We saw this when we buffed out the Ferdinand Magellan Presidential Railcar US. No 1


Presidential_Rallcar_001.jpg



So test first. You might have to order some new foam pads.

Then buff out whatever paint is left. The cleaner/wax will remove any dulling caused by the wash job and that old single stage paint will shine up just like new.

Remember, when using a one-step cleaner/wax, you want to use it like a compound, that is don't skimp on product use. Don't over do it but it's not like applying a THIN coat of wax to new paint, you want some cleaners, and polishing oils and abrasives on the surface working for you.

I think we'll all be amazed and the before and after difference.


This reminds me of my Chicken Truck Detail


:)
 
Thanks for sharing this unique aggressive wash method. This may come in handy some day.
 
hogie said:
I know this truck is anathema for most of the shiny paint loving people on this site, but I had to pick it up. I know Mike loves Meg's #7 for rejuvenating single stage paint, however I don't have any on hand. Does anyone know if 3M Imperial Hand Glaze will serve the same function of "nourishing the paint" before any polishing?

Also, has anyone tried Iron X or another ferrous attacking wheel cleaner on rust stains like these? A large number of people recommend hitting the rust with CLR and some scotch bright pads (which sounds mighty harsh).

The frame is rock solid, other than the steering wheel and missing headliner the interior is excellent it just has toasted paint. Luckily there are only a couple of rust spots that went all they way through on the tailgate, hood, and one fender.

Thanks
Click to expand...

they sell show car glaze at harbor freight and advanced auto parts if that helps
 
how about that new mirror bright polishing wax? i bet that has some good oils in it?
 
I was gonna pullout the truck and get some pics before doing much work to it. Too bad it was 14 out, I worked on the license plate light for a few minutes and gave up.
 
hogie said:
I was gonna pullout the truck and get some pics before doing much work to it. Too bad it was 14 out, I worked on the license plate light for a few minutes and gave up.
Click to expand...

tell me about it. i want to work on mine but thier is a foot of snow outside
 
I caved and picked up some #7. Still to cold to do anything though.

Sometimes I miss having an attached garage.
 
***Update***


It finally hit 41 this weekend so I went out to the garage and washed the truck.

I did a test spot and the white paint was very fragile. So I skipped the comet step and used d114 as a rinseless wash with an old mitt. This was followed up by two rounds of soaking in Meg's #7.

So far the blue has picked up some shine and the white looks white again. The primer is darker and more even in appearance.

I will hit the blue with some Meg's cleaning wax tonight after the kids go to bed. I will only be hitting the blue with machine.

The white comes off with minor pressure by hand so going very easy on it.


View attachment 54633



:)
 
It looks like I will need to post up some after pics, hopefully we will have some sun this week. The garage pics look like they were taken with a potato.
 
Time for some more pics. With this winter weather, the pics aren't exactly lit the same, but you can certainly see a difference. I soaked it for a couple days in Megs #7 and then hit it with megiuars cleaning wax on a microfiber cutting pad.

Before
hogie-albums-f100-picture54874-a.jpg

hogie-albums-f100-picture54875-061.jpg


After
hogie-albums-f100-picture54876-070.jpg

hogie-albums-f100-picture54877-073.jpg

hogie-albums-f100-picture54878-078.jpg

hogie-albums-f100-picture54879-087.jpg


It looks like the forums photohosting compresses the heck out of these. I may have to figure out my old photobucket log on
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top