Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
- Thread starter
- #21
Hi Darren,
I'm sorry for not posting the link to the "Follow-up" portion of this video where I buff out the entire car. We don't just do spots or mock-ups for the sake of brevity but someone, (me), actually walks the walk and finishes the entire car.
Here's the follow-up,
Optimum Hyper Polish - 2003 Honda Civic LX
Check it out and you can see which products I used from start to finish.
As for the Optimum "Car Wax", which is a spray-on wax, after meeting and working with David Ghodoussi in person 3 times now I have a lot of confidence in his abilities as a chemist and yes I would trust his spray-on car wax for protection anywhere.
But let me add a little to that so there's no misunderstanding... this is something I've been writing for years, maybe a decade now and I'm always happy to see others share on other forums for educational purposes.
There is no miracle product available to the enthusiast market at this time that will 100% prevent all harm your your car's paint. Simply put....
Mike Phillips said:
I've seen the Uric Acid in a bird dropping etch paint in less than 10 minutes after the paint had been compounded, polished and sealed with two coats of wax. I believe that chances are very high that the type of wax in this particular incident wouldn't matter as to the damaging effect the Uric Acid had on both the layer of wax and then the paint.
I also believe that car wax, (or a paint sealant for all the D.O. people in the world), is a Sacrificial Barrier Coating. That is it's a coating you and I can easily apply that will slow down the harmful effects of corrosive elements that land on the paint and anything else harmful that can happen to the paint. Key words being slow down, not 100% stop or prevent.
The idea being that as your car's finish sees wear-and-tear and the wax or paint sealant wears off or in other words, sacrifices itself [so your paint doesn't have to sacrifice itself], that you and I can then wash the car to remove any loose dirt, clay the paint to remove any above surface bonded contaminants, and the RE-APPLY your choice of wax or paint sealant whether it's a liquid, paste or spray-on product.
The key is to,
"Find something you like and use it often"
If you find something you like then obviously you like,
- How it applies
- How it dries or doesn't dry
- How it wipes off
- how it looks
- How it lasts
- How it protects
That's pretty much the majority of reasons we all wax our cars.
THEN... if you do this often... your car's finish will always look like brand new. It's only when you and I neglect our car's finish and the car is used as a daily driver and thus exposed to the elements and wear-and-tear, that it goes down hill without intervention.
And to these points, I believe the Optimum Car Wax will work as well as any other quality product on the market when used as directed and re-applied as often as needed to replace the portions of it that wear off under normal use of the vehicle.
How often is often?
If you park your car in a garage an only drive it on sunny Sundays then you won't have to re-apply any company's wax or paint sealant very often in order to maintain that show room new look.
If you drive your car everyday, and for a portion of each day it's parked outside, for example when your at work, and/or when you're home if you don't have a garage or covered parking at your place of residence to shelter the paint, then you will have to re-apply your any company's wax or paint sealant more often in order to maintain that show room new look.
Pretty simple really...
:dblthumb2:
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