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Mike,
In the pics, I noticed that the 3401 has the thicker foam MF pad. Would you avoid using the thinner pads with the 3401? Thanks.
Nate
Hi Nate,
The first time I tried the stiffer, thin microfiber pads on a rotary buffer I gave them a complete thumbs down, at least when using a compound as the feel was grabby, buffer-hop was a problem and it heated the paint up quickly.
Then Eric sent me the thicker MF pads to test out and I was surprised to find out they buffed a lot better. Since I've seen the same grabby/buffer-hop problem with thin MF pads on the Flex 3401 I figured if the problem went away when using thicker MF pads on the rotary that it will likely go away with the Flex 3401.
A lot of how a pad buffs over the surface is dependent upon the lubricity of the product. Compounds, even compounds with good lubricity still have abrasives "biting" the finish and this can affect pad feel or performance. Polishes tend to provide good lubrication and less aggressive abrading or biting action and are not as much of an issue as compounds.
I have a Chevelle coming up that I want to test the MF pads on using rotary buffers and the Flex 3401, heck even the Makita BO6040
So look for that as soon as I can squeeze it in. Next week we're doing the 2006 Mustang Live Broadcast, we haven't chose a product line to showcase yet so the MF pads might be used here also.
For Coral's Honda though, the paint is very flat/matte/dull with oxidation from neglect and constant exposure to the elements and I want to keep the focus on the Duragloss chemicals themselves and not two things, (Duragloss and Fiber pads), so we're going to go with the tried and true simple foam pads and DA Polishers for this project.
Louie called to let me know he's going to join in and so did Jeff Bell, so currently it's,
Louie
Jeff
Me
Coral - (Trying to get her to help with her own car)
I also hope to wash the car first thing and test out some other beta products that I can't disclose but have nothing to do with removing the oxidation on the paint.
I'll do my best to capture a walk-around video with my iPhone before we start because I pretty confident the before and after change in dull to gloss is going to be amazing with the Duragloss products.
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Mike, I'll be looking very forward to seeing how it turns out. Thanks for spot-lighting DG products too. If I may be so bold as to suggest that you try the Swirl Remover as it has the most cut from what you have pictured there. It should do well with the new mf pads I would think. The other thing is if you're going to use any other DG product on the paint (501,105,111,etc) that you get some 601. It is designed for that. You can use it individually or combine it 4:1 with sealant:601. I just want you to get the most out of the line. Be sure to use AW with your final wipe; you will love it.
I know that the way to go is "find something that you like and use it often" but Eric Dunn's advice for the 3401 is to use the disc (for DA's) instead of the pad (for rotaries): in rwright's review that was his recommendation.
I sure will like to read your final opinion about it! :dblthumb2:
Are you talking about #671 Swirl Mark Remover? I don't think they carry it, only #652 Pre-Clean #2. It will be interesting to see the outcome of this little project.
***Update***
I think this will be about as extreme of a makeover as anything else I've ever done in my life.
:buffing:
Sounds like your going to need something with some serious cut, not sure if there's a DG product for that but I/we trust Mike and crew with work wonders with DG products...."the underdog champion of the world";-)
Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
Here's the end-results, I'll post all the before, process and after shots tomorrow in a new thread plus the videos we took....
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:xyxthumbs:
Hey Mike, I noticed that it only took you a little over 4 hours to perform an awesome transformation. Does that just come with experience? I believe it would've taken me about 7 or 8 hours to do that. Great job