Sign-up - Honda Extreme Makeover with Duragloss!

Mike,
In the pics, I noticed that the 3401 has the thicker foam MF pad. Would you avoid using the thinner pads with the 3401? Thanks.

Nate
 
Mike,
In the pics, I noticed that the 3401 has the thicker foam MF pad. Would you avoid using the thinner pads with the 3401? Thanks.

Nate


Hi Nate,


The first time I tried the stiffer, thin microfiber pads on a rotary buffer I gave them a complete thumbs down, at least when using a compound as the feel was grabby, buffer-hop was a problem and it heated the paint up quickly.

Then Eric sent me the thicker MF pads to test out and I was surprised to find out they buffed a lot better. Since I've seen the same grabby/buffer-hop problem with thin MF pads on the Flex 3401 I figured if the problem went away when using thicker MF pads on the rotary that it will likely go away with the Flex 3401.

A lot of how a pad buffs over the surface is dependent upon the lubricity of the product. Compounds, even compounds with good lubricity still have abrasives "biting" the finish and this can affect pad feel or performance. Polishes tend to provide good lubrication and less aggressive abrading or biting action and are not as much of an issue as compounds.


I have a Chevelle coming up that I want to test the MF pads on using rotary buffers and the Flex 3401, heck even the Makita BO6040


So look for that as soon as I can squeeze it in. Next week we're doing the 2006 Mustang Live Broadcast, we haven't chose a product line to showcase yet so the MF pads might be used here also.

For Coral's Honda though, the paint is very flat/matte/dull with oxidation from neglect and constant exposure to the elements and I want to keep the focus on the Duragloss chemicals themselves and not two things, (Duragloss and Fiber pads), so we're going to go with the tried and true simple foam pads and DA Polishers for this project.

Louie called to let me know he's going to join in and so did Jeff Bell, so currently it's,

Louie
Jeff
Me
Coral - (Trying to get her to help with her own car)


I also hope to wash the car first thing and test out some other beta products that I can't disclose but have nothing to do with removing the oxidation on the paint.

I'll do my best to capture a walk-around video with my iPhone before we start because I pretty confident the before and after change in dull to gloss is going to be amazing with the Duragloss products.


:)
 
Hi Nate,

The first time I tried the stiffer, thin microfiber pads on a rotary buffer I gave them a complete thumbs down, at least when using a compound as the feel was grabby, buffer-hop was a problem and it heated the paint up quickly.

Then Eric sent me the thicker MF pads to test out and I was surprised to find out they buffed a lot better. Since I've seen the same grabby/buffer-hop problem with thin MF pads on the Flex 3401 I figured if the problem went away when using thicker MF pads on the rotary that it will likely go away with the Flex 3401.

A lot of how a pad buffs over the surface is dependent upon the lubricity of the product. Compounds, even compounds with good lubricity still have abrasives "biting" the finish and this can affect pad feel or performance. Polishes tend to provide good lubrication and less aggressive abrading or biting action and are not as much of an issue as compounds.

I have a Chevelle coming up that I want to test the MF pads on using rotary buffers and the Flex 3401, heck even the Makita BO6040

So look for that as soon as I can squeeze it in. Next week we're doing the 2006 Mustang Live Broadcast, we haven't chose a product line to showcase yet so the MF pads might be used here also.

For Coral's Honda though, the paint is very flat/matte/dull with oxidation from neglect and constant exposure to the elements and I want to keep the focus on the Duragloss chemicals themselves and not two things, (Duragloss and Fiber pads), so we're going to go with the tried and true simple foam pads and DA Polishers for this project.

Louie called to let me know he's going to join in and so did Jeff Bell, so currently it's,

Louie
Jeff
Me
Coral - (Trying to get her to help with her own car)

I also hope to wash the car first thing and test out some other beta products that I can't disclose but have nothing to do with removing the oxidation on the paint.

I'll do my best to capture a walk-around video with my iPhone before we start because I pretty confident the before and after change in dull to gloss is going to be amazing with the Duragloss products.


:)

I know that the way to go is "find something that you like and use it often" but Eric Dunn's advice for the 3401 is to use the disc (for DA's) instead of the pad (for rotaries): in rwright's review that was his recommendation.

I sure will like to read your final opinion about it! :dblthumb2:
 
Mike, I'll be looking very forward to seeing how it turns out. Thanks for spot-lighting DG products too. If I may be so bold as to suggest that you try the Swirl Remover as it has the most cut from what you have pictured there. It should do well with the new mf pads I would think. The other thing is if you're going to use any other DG product on the paint (501,105,111,etc) that you get some 601. It is designed for that. You can use it individually or combine it 4:1 with sealant:601. I just want you to get the most out of the line. Be sure to use AW with your final wipe; you will love it.

Are you talking about #671 Swirl Mark Remover? I don't think they carry it, only #652 Pre-Clean #2. It will be interesting to see the outcome of this little project.
 
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I know that the way to go is "find something that you like and use it often" but Eric Dunn's advice for the 3401 is to use the disc (for DA's) instead of the pad (for rotaries): in rwright's review that was his recommendation.

I sure will like to read your final opinion about it! :dblthumb2:


I missed that post and along with it Eric's recommendation for using the thin MF pads instead of the thick MF pads on the 3401.

One thing for sure, it won't take very long to figure out.


:)
 
Are you talking about #671 Swirl Mark Remover? I don't think they carry it, only #652 Pre-Clean #2. It will be interesting to see the outcome of this little project.


We have the #652 Pre-Clean #2 and you're right at this time we don't carry the #671 Swirl Mark Remover.


Confirmed the car will be here today around 4:00pm to 4:30 and if it's sunny outside I'll take a walk around video in the sun and a second one after we wash it and pull it into the studio. I spoke with Stacy about the new paint job that is now 1 year old and asked her if it was shiny when they picked up the car?

Her answer was "no"

She says she was disappointed because the paint had no shine at all and that's the point of a new paint job, to be shiny.


So here's the set-up... I'm not sure what type of paint was used on this car or anything else about it. What I know is it looks flat and has no gloss, shine or reflectivity to the finish. My guess is a good polishing and waxing "should" at a minimum do something for the paint to improve it.

So fingers are crossed that if this paint can be brought back from the dead that Duragloss will get the job done.


:)
 
It'll be good to see some "press" on the DG line, as it's certainly a sleeper, very modestly priced, too.
 
***Update***

The car has arrived and it is worse then I remember. The paint is completely flat from oxidation. It has zero shine, smoothness or gloss.

I just took a video of it outside in the sun and next I'm going to go out into the studio and wipe the paint clean using a waterless wash and then I'll take a video of the paint before I clay it and then one after I clay.


I think this will be about as extreme of a makeover as anything else I've ever done in my life.


:buffing:
 
***Update***

I think this will be about as extreme of a makeover as anything else I've ever done in my life.
:buffing:

That's why those of us who saw the preliminary pics subscribed to the thread. We have no doubt the young lady will get her car back looking absolutely "showroom". We just want to see how the master and crew accomplish same with a handful of DG products.

Bill
 
Sounds like your going to need something with some serious cut, not sure if there's a DG product for that but I/we trust Mike and crew with work wonders with DG products...."the underdog champion of the world";-)

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
Sounds like your going to need something with some serious cut, not sure if there's a DG product for that but I/we trust Mike and crew with work wonders with DG products...."the underdog champion of the world";-)

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online

I have confidence DG will work out. I used 652 on oxidized gel coat and it cleaned up very well. I am sure it can handle oxidized paint.

Dave
 
Here's the end-results, I'll post all the before, process and after shots tomorrow in a new thread plus the videos we took....


DuraglossExtremeMakover004.jpg


:xyxthumbs:
 
OMG it's got some shine there Mike :dblthumb2::dblthumb2:

How did the pads hold up with all that dead paint
 
Hey Mike, I noticed that it only took you a little over 4 hours to perform an awesome transformation. Does that just come with experience? I believe it would've taken me about 7 or 8 hours to do that. Great job
 
Not bad considering the products used contain minimal abrasives. That is of course if only the products pictured were used. Looks like it could use either a full wet sand session or at least some compounding.
 
Hey Mike, I noticed that it only took you a little over 4 hours to perform an awesome transformation. Does that just come with experience? I believe it would've taken me about 7 or 8 hours to do that. Great job


If I were doing this by myself it would have taken me all day. For all these project I open the doors to our forum members and most of the time I have a pretty good team of both experienced detailers and people new to detailing all ready to join in the fun.

Here you go...


CoralsHonda035.jpg





:xyxthumbs:
 
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