Sonax Perfect Finish vs PF2500

Been considering SPF for quite a while now. Depending on the condition of the paint, I typically use FG400, 2500 and/or 4500) but if I can avoid a two step, that would be super terrific. I've read several articles by Todd Carpenter and he swears by SPF. It's still rather new here in the States and I haven't read that many threads so it's hard to come to a consensus at this point. Seems like it works better on softer paint.
 
I have been using PF2500 for a very long time, but the last year I have mostly been reaching for the SPF. I do mostly onesteppers and here is where SPF is a gem: fast working, very easy to use (removal and etc) and great gloss.

Since I never have used SPF as a cutting polish, ie with a wool or a foam cutting pad, as I have done with PF2500, I cant say how much SPF can cut.According to Sonax, If I remember correctly, it can handle P2000 or
P2500 grit.
 
I ll have to get some Perfect Finish one day for sure .From reading these posts .
 
SonOfOC said:
If you have very soft paint, then SPF is better. However, PF2500 has more cut and does not gunk up pads like SPF.

SPF - Great for good condition paint or paint that is very soft. It works perfectly for Porsche, BMW, and Lexus blacks. Finishes better than PF2500.

PF2500 - Works well on almost all paint systems. Can one-step all but the darkest color paints or paint that is extremely soft.

YMMV depending on tool used and pad type. PF2500 is still a very good polish to have in your arsenal. SPF almost has the same cut as PF2500 and almost finishes like SF4500.
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:iagree:

IMO, with a Rupes white pad SPF finishes better than anything except Rupes Ultra Diamond.
 
zmcgovern45 said:
Fine fine fine... I'll buy it :)

Have a black GT-R coming up that I was hoping to try it out on since those are supposed to have finicky paint. Upon initial inspection the car was in pretty good shape - only minor surface defects.
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Are you going to use a DA with SPF for this job?
 
Kitoy22 said:
Are you going to use a DA with SPF for this job?
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Pending test spot confirmation... yes.

I will be using a DA regardless (Rupes LHR21ES and/or PC7424XP), but the product may be altered based on my findings while doing my test spot(s).
 
According to Sonax, SPF was designed to be used with forced rotation(3401, Rotary, etc..).
 
FivePoint.0 said:
According to Sonax, SPF was designed to be used with forced rotation(3401, Rotary, etc..).
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My favorite polish with a rotary. Used it with a GG6 on tight areas and seems to work fine.
 
FivePoint.0 said:
According to Sonax, SPF was designed to be used with forced rotation(3401, Rotary, etc..).
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It was, but everyone still gets great results with a rupes and other da.


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I just bought a new bottle of Perfect Finish and i cant wait to try it! The article mentions to use only two drops per pass. Do i need to prime the pad first using the Mike Phillips method and wetting the entire surface?

I have samples for trade if anyone wants to try
 
I decided to test P203S (I know this isn't truly PF2500) and SPF on 7424XP and 9227c both on LC White Pad.

It appears this has been said already, but I give the better cut to P203S. SPF gives me less cut (barely) but gives me the better overall crisp finish. This for both, PC and rotary.
 
stiffdogg06 said:
I decided to test P203S (I know this isn't truly PF2500) and SPF on 7424XP and 9227c both on LC White Pad.

It appears this has been said already, but I give the better cut to P203S. SPF gives me less cut (barely) but gives me the better overall crisp finish. This for both, PC and rotary.
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Thanks for doing this. What car did you test this on?

Since PF2500 was reformulated to have less cut than the P203S, it's probably safe to assume that in most cases, Sonax PF will have equal or more cut than PF2500.


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The Critic said:
Thanks for doing this. What car did you test this on?

Since PF2500 was reformulated to have less cut than the P203S, it's probably safe to assume that in most cases, Sonax PF will have equal or more cut than PF2500.


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No car. Aluminum test panel. But I feel like the paint is on the softer side, maybe like a Honda/Acura soft.

Here is about what the panel looked like before. Took a purple wool pad + 9227c rotary and went to town at 1800rpms with no polish on the pad.


P203S was able to remove ~99% of everything. Whereas the SPF removed maybe ~93-95%. I feel like that they are both perfect 2nd steps in a two-step polish. Or even a 1-step polish on lighter car wash swirls, etc.

I'll see if I can get some time tomorrow to really scratch the panel with a dirty wash rag to get some scratches instead of light holograms and then complete a two-step polish with P203S and SPF being the 2nd step. I also don't believe Menzerna's claim that P203S had almost the same cut as SIP.
 
stiffdogg06 said:
No car. Aluminum test panel. But I feel like the paint is on the softer side, maybe like a Honda/Acura soft.

Here is about what the panel looked like before. Took a purple wool pad + 9227c rotary and went to town at 1800rpms with no polish on the pad.


P203S was able to remove ~99% of everything. Whereas the SPF removed maybe ~93-95%. I feel like that they are both perfect 2nd steps in a two-step polish. Or even a 1-step polish on lighter car wash swirls, etc.

I'll see if I can get some time tomorrow to really scratch the panel with a dirty wash rag to get some scratches instead of light holograms and then complete a two-step polish with P203S and SPF being the 2nd step. I also don't believe Menzerna's claim that P203S had almost the same cut as SIP.
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Could you post the pictures of the holograms corrected? Im sure that would be useful!:xyxthumbs:
 
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