Sonax PNS vs Carpro Reload

fightnews said:
Reload probably needs surgicially clean paint to adhere isn't it quartz based?
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I'm surely not one of the product's technicians-designers to elaborate of what you say is possibly true? That the Quartz/SIO component of the product will not properly bond to anything less than pristine clean paint, or a paint that was previously CQuartzed?
 
Reload is a polymer based spray product with 5% SiO2. It's also got a high solvent content in it. I'm not sure if it uses fluorine as a carrier for the SiO2 or not, but the durability is not as long as claimed. I use it mostly on rims and trim, and that's it. Once the stuff I have is gone, I wont' be buying anymore of it. It doesn't protect for that long, it's not that easy to use. It doesn't bead well, I think about 80 degree water contact angle or so, nothing too impressive. That being said, you should test the dirty release of the Reload side to truly see if it's still there or not. On my rims after an entire winter, it doesn't bead to save its life but the water release is excellent. One powerwash usually and Iron X doesn't really react after.
 
Ok. First I want to commend AG on its excellent customer service. I got a new bottle of Carpro Reload. Something must have happened with the first bottle. Polished the hood, ipa wipe, and reapplied. Seems to be just fine on the Reload side. It was dark tonight but I will post some follow up pics this weekend of how it’s holding up and compare it to the PNS side.

Thanks again to the AG staff! I will be a loyal customer for a long time after dealing with a company that actually cares about customer service.
 
So I got a replacement bottle of Carpro Reload and I thought I would give a now fair comparison between the 2. I polished the old Reload side and reapplied after an IPA wipe. Seems to be fine now. The Relaod side is certainly slicker. But when it comes to beading and self cleaning I believe the Sonax PNS still rules. Below is a picture after a recent rainstorm. As you can see the Sonax on to passenger side is almost dry 20-30 minutes after. The Reload side still has plenty of water left on it. Though a little more grabby, I will lean towards the PNS for my liking.

View attachment 61776

Sent from my XT1650 using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
Usually it's wwater contact angle that determines how much water is left. I believe reload had a relatively poor water contact angle.
 
WillSports3 said:
Reload is a polymer based spray product with 5% SiO2. It's also got a high solvent content in it. I'm not sure if it uses fluorine as a carrier for the SiO2 or not, but the durability is not as long as claimed. I use it mostly on rims and trim, and that's it. Once the stuff I have is gone, I wont' be buying anymore of it. It doesn't protect for that long, it's not that easy to use. It doesn't bead well, I think about 80 degree water contact angle or so, nothing too impressive. That being said, you should test the dirty release of the Reload side to truly see if it's still there or not. On my rims after an entire winter, it doesn't bead to save its life but the water release is excellent. One powerwash usually and Iron X doesn't really react after.
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Well, I don't know anymore where this all stands?

But I can remember a video, probably posted by Corey from Carpro, where that smeary nasty Reload version wouldn't come off the paint with numerous wash downs with APC.

So, what has happened after that?

Ok, so let's take some things at face value here, and let's "De-Analize" ourselves for just a second.

So, Reload is a needed product after a application of CQuartz after it's applied to prevent water spotting while the coating goes through its final cure of a said to be 7 days.

Well, does it? Does it need Reload? Or what if I throw the bottle of Reload in the trash can, and say let's try something different?

How about a coat of Colly 845 on top? Why not?

Will Colly 845 hurt or remove CQuartz? Me, I doubt it.

Now all you fellas looking for the last little bit of beading and sheeting, and pounding your brains out over such, is it really that important?

You go with coatings largely for protection, don't you? Or am I missing something? Have we become so anal, that we're doing photo-shoots for beading, and run-off as a gauge to determine a product's worth? is that all there is, and is the only joy left in this game?

Next time I correct and coat a vehicle, I think it's high time I think off the grid, and make some unorthodox choices of products. And I just might not be wrong.
 
My apologies to all for my last post. Wasn't my intentions to perhaps insult anyone here, and at the time I was perhaps thinking off the grid, and perhaps not that logically.

Before anyone else says it, I've stepped back and thought about this some more, and with some logic.

I'd imagine that sure, one could apply any product they like after coating a vehicle, but will it be the best choice? Will such other products prove beneficial as they are not specifically designed to be used as such.

While my previous comment might be correct, that a lesser wax or sealant won't perhaps damage or remove a coating, but will likely not properly bond with-to the coating, and thus longevity is likely to be less than such products being used solely on their own.

I know that while I'm thinking off the grid in my previous post and would maybe consider trying such as an experiment, I haven't myself actually done this on my coated vehicle, preferring as it would be said to "keep it in the family", and have used nothing but Reload on my own CQuartzed vehicle.

The one-two punch combo of CQ UK and Reload have kept my vehicle looking good, and would guess the Reload has aided the longevity of CQ UK.

I'm currently nearing or at the 3 year mark with CQ UK, and although I have some minor marring caused by a car cover and the rubbing of it by high southwest desert winds and dusts, overall I've been extremely satisfied with these products.

I plan on a total correction again, and the re-application of CQ UK this coming spring when conditions allow.
 
I would say that reload is kind of a pointless product if you're using cquartz UK already. The reason I say that is because reload to top the coating is defeating the actual point of the coating. Now that being said reload is a decent sealant in its own, I just think there's much better ones out there.

I believe the chemistry of reload is made so that it will actually stay on cquartz.
 
WillSports3 said:
I would say that reload is kind of a pointless product if you're using cquartz UK already. The reason I say that is because reload to top the coating is defeating the actual point of the coating. Now that being said reload is a decent sealant in its own, I just think there's much better ones out there.

I believe the chemistry of reload is made so that it will actually stay on cquartz.
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We use Reload over freshly applied CQuartz to keep it from water spotting. It also adds slickness to CQuartz.
 
FWIW In my testing of various spray sealants side-by-side, Reload was the 1st to fall flat after just a few weeks of Spring weather (this test was done a couple of years ago). SPNS was not included in my test at the time, though I do like the product in general (as well as SBSD). The water behavior has always been stellar.
 
Rsurfer said:
We use Reload over freshly applied CQuartz to keep it from water spotting. It also adds slickness to CQuartz.
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That's my point in saying reload is redundant. Coatings in general are not slick so it's a soft of pointless addition just for the surface to feel slick. As for water spotting, it'll water spot anyway if you don't watch it. I find it easier to just spray a little bit of waterless wash on the spot and wipe it off instead. Saves me from the poor water behavior of something like reload.
 
MarkD51 said:
My apologies to all for my last post. Wasn't my intentions to perhaps insult anyone here, and at the time I was perhaps thinking off the grid, and perhaps not that logically.

Before anyone else says it, I've stepped back and thought about this some more, and with some logic.

I'd imagine that sure, one could apply any product they like after coating a vehicle, but will it be the best choice? Will such other products prove beneficial as they are not specifically designed to be used as such.

While my previous comment might be correct, that a lesser wax or sealant won't perhaps damage or remove a coating, but will likely not properly bond with-to the coating, and thus longevity is likely to be less than such products being used solely on their own.

I know that while I'm thinking off the grid in my previous post and would maybe consider trying such as an experiment, I haven't myself actually done this on my coated vehicle, preferring as it would be said to "keep it in the family", and have used nothing but Reload on my own CQuartzed vehicle.

The one-two punch combo of CQ UK and Reload have kept my vehicle looking good, and would guess the Reload has aided the longevity of CQ UK.

I'm currently nearing or at the 3 year mark with CQ UK, and although I have some minor marring caused by a car cover and the rubbing of it by high southwest desert winds and dusts, overall I've been extremely satisfied with these products.

I plan on a total correction again, and the re-application of CQ UK this coming spring when conditions allow.
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MarkD51, no harm no foul. You were just speaking your mind. Maybe I should have explained myself a little better. I am a fledgling in this world and I am just trying to find out what works for me. The piont of compairing these products was to see which one would work better for me in this situation. The cars previous owner allowed water etching on some of the car. I got most of them out last fall and will get the rest out come spring. So part of this trial was to which works better for an outside 24/7 daily driver. While I love the beading the most important component was how the 2 products faired against the weather. 30 minutes after the rains the Sonax PNS side was dry with absolutely no water spots remaining. The Reload side was a different story. The water stayed on the car much longer and much larger bead size. The result was water spots. While they did wipe off, my goal is not to be on a DEFCON 4 alert status ready to wipe the vehicle down at a moments notice. When I look for products, how “bulletproof” they are is a large factor in my decision. I don’t want finicky products and as a stand-alone sealant I just like PNS better. Reload is probably fine over CQuartz.
 
WillSports3 said:
That's my point in saying reload is redundant. Coatings in general are not slick so it's a soft of pointless addition just for the surface to feel slick. As for water spotting, it'll water spot anyway if you don't watch it. I find it easier to just spray a little bit of waterless wash on the spot and wipe it off instead. Saves me from the poor water behavior of something like reload.
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It maybe pointless and redundant too you, but not to me. I happen to like the slickness that Reload gives me.
I also don't see much difference in beading from CQuartz or when its topped with Reload. As a matter of fact I like how Reload reacts better than CQuartz alone.
 
I've run Reload solo up to 2.5 months, I did of video of this durability test here:

https://youtu.be/7aIT2PF3HKM

PNS is going to have a much higher potential to maintain its durability - it's heavier, it's more hydrophobic from the start and it's more resistant to weathering. Reload has an excellent short term performance and short term resistance to cleaners, but just having it out there enduring the elements is going to take its toll. It definitely survived on the blue test car at a good level at 2.5 months, so I would assume on a daily driver that's garaged I think it would fetch that 4-6 months durability claim, but still not without a significant loss in performance.

In Florida we get those heavy dew soaks in the morning and then it heats up and dries everything off, that constant wetting (mixed with whatever grime is currently on the paint at this point) and natural drying is going to eat into the surface tension of the LSP. Much more so in your environment when you mix in the wetting from the snow and heat from the motor combining with the salt and snow grime - this can really take a lot of LSP's out quick and it looks like Reload was the casualty this time. PNS is insane.
 
Those of you who have used reload on bare paint and on cquarts coatings. Is the results differing much?

I think that reload as it name suggest is a reload of sio2 to cquarts coatings. That is as the small amount of sio2 is added to the coating you apply it to. I don't think that the behavior is alterning the coating water contact angle so much. But on it's own I think it's a different story. You don't have the same base on a bare paint than on a coating. So the longevity on bare paint and the water contact angle is different than on an already applyied coating. Then when used to a coating for letting the coating to cure the one week it takes. It's a great thing to have for not only water spots but the coating it self I think.

So to sum it up I think reload purpose when manufactured was to reload a coating. Then you can use it as a stand alone sealant also but it was not made for it specific to that in mind.
 
SWETM said:
So to sum it up I think reload purpose when manufactured was to reload a coating. Then you can use it as a stand alone sealant also but it was not made for it specific to that in mind.
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From CarPro's Website.....

https://www.carpro-us.com/protection/carpro-reload-100ml/ said:
Reload packs the glass-like gloss, hydrophobicity, and dirt repellency of Silica Nanotechnology in a convenient spray-on, wipe-off sealant. Originally formulated to maintain the protection and finish quality of CQuartz coatings, Reload has also proven itself as a stand-alone sealant, where it can offer up to 6 months of protection on daily drivers.
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The results are the same, on bare paint or coated paint. Which is mostly a month of tight beads but the water contact angle isn't as good so it retains more water on the paint. And of course it doesn't last that long. I use reload, or at least the remaining amount of it I have on my winter times. Spray it on wipe it off, if it has streaks it has streaks, it's for winter steel rims anyways.
 
Yeah it works as stand alone sealant also. But I have not seen any to have the claimed longevity of up to 6 months. And when claims is up to it's rarely lasts that long. I think it's to little of sio2 in it to get that longevity. The upside is that you often can build up the sio2 and when maintance is good and you apply it monthly and maybe Ech2o plus reload as a drying aid or QD. I think you can get a good protection to 6 months. Then if it's a dd I think that it's time for a deep cleaning decon wash and if necessary a finishing polish.

I have build up a sio2 layer with gyeon wet coat and a wash with a car soap with sio2 in it the last 4 months. Today I washed the car and the last time was christmas. A proper prewash and a stronger product to the side of the car got the sheeting back. Then tested a new to me QD but almost the strength of a sealant with 15% sio2 in it. Hope it gets me by to the next wash. I live in a very harsh winter weather. And was satisfied with the self cleaning ability wet coat has giving me so far.
 
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