Spit shining

[Kristopher1129]

Sounds useless to me. I don't get the point...

Where does solvents come into play? I thought it was just water and wax...What?!?!

How is that a spit shine? haha

 

[FUNX650]

Sounds useless to me. I don't get the point...

Me too, but, there are people that "spit-shines" and say that even though it's a 'difficult process', they can "see" a difference. As the saying goes: "in the eye of the beholder"

Where does solvents come into play? I thought it was just water and wax...What?!?!

See below.


How is that a spit shine? haha

Here's A Basic Wax Formulation:
Water
Petroleum –Based Solvents ...% varies
Polishing Agents (Abrasives)
Natural and/or Synthetic Waxes
Silicone Polymers
Surfactants
Additives (Fragrance, Thickeners, Preservatives, etc.)

Percentages of some of these ingredients will vary from 0% to 40-60%.

When waxes have solvents in them....maybe that is where solvents come into play during "spit-shining"? I personally do not have access to the sophisticated equipment that's required to verify this....



Bob

 

[Kurt_s]

Anybody out there use the spit shine method, and is it worth the extra effort?

I have heard of it but never tried it.

I sort of remember a discussion last year that had to do with using using ice water with some waxes to deal with wax sweating and for spit shining.

If you try it and like it, please let us know.

 

[sohail99]

So, is it like -

-Apply 1st nuba layer, buff off
-mist it with ice cold water and apply 2nd thin layer with a damp applicator till it all disappears, mist with ice cold water and buff off

-keep repeating the 2nd step over and over!?

Is that it?

 

[BillE]

One big thing about 'spit-shinning' shoes (especially military issue) is that the leather is NOT smooth. There are small 'craters' through out those things.

By applying and reapplying (good ole) Kiwi you are mainly filling those scratches and what not.

Sounds like using a product with lots of fillers doesn't it?

Bill

 

[FUNX650]

So, is it like -

-Apply 1st nuba layer, buff off
-mist it with ice cold water and apply 2nd thin layer with a damp applicator till it all disappears, mist with ice cold water and buff off

-keep repeating the 2nd step over and over!?

Is that it?

I think you've got it....but is it worth it.

IMO....The most optically clear your paint will be is attained by the polishing process...the prepping stages, as it is often called.

Any sacrificial barrier (an LSP) applied on top of the prepped surfaces should also be as optically clear as possible to allow the prepped surfaces "shine" to be visible.

One of my favorite Barry Meguiar quotes regarding carnubas is:

"In the old days, there was a great reliance on carnauba wax, which was the hardest natural wax available. Fifty years later we have synthetic waxes, polymers and resins that have far more resilience than carnauba and enhance the gloss. Interestingly, carnauba (which people still want to see in a product) actually grays the surface of a vehicle."

If indeed this is true, then it would seem, once again IMO, that "spit-shining" would decrease the ability for the prepped surfaces "shine" to be foremost and forefront. Becoming increasingly more and more occluded/gray.

All of that, plus I have better things to do with what's left of my time here on earth.



Bob

 

[Houckster]

Since I'm brand new to spit-shining, I have no comments on it yet. Rather I'd like to say that I'm not at all sure that if you apply a second coat of wax, the solvent of the second coat will destroy the first layer. That depends on your technique.

It seems to me that if you immediately try to add a second coat you will remove the first coat but if you let the first coat cure fully, it should be stable enough to hold up under the second coat, especially if you apply with light pressure and let the 2nd coat cure, say overnight, before removing the haze.

I will repeat my familiar lament: The people who make these products ought to be more forthcoming about how to apply their products to maximum effect but they don't nor do I believe they care that much. My request to Finish Kare for more information went unanswered for example.

I have added 3 layers of Finish-Kare 1000p separated by 24 hour periods and another 3 lays of 2685 at 24 hr intervals and I think there is a very clear depth to the paint finish.

My mind is still open on this question. I may try some experimentation after I understand the spit-shine technique more thoroughly.

 

[Rsurfer]

The people who make these products ought to be more forthcoming about how to apply their products to maximum effect but they don't nor do I believe they care that much. My request to Finish Kare for more information went unanswered for example.



Does Pledge give you instructions on how to layer their furniture polish? Could it be diminishing returns?

 

[Houckster]

I submit this because there seems to be a question as to whether or not layering is possible and under what conditions it can be accomplished. It appears from Finish Kare's comments that it is possible and that once properly cured, the first layer of protection is sufficiently stable that the second coat will not remove it.

Finish Kare's response is in caps follows each of my comments.

. . . unfortunately, the nitty gritty of getting the best result from these products is difficult. Sadly, the website isn’t very enlightening. Hopefully you can help.

What is the minimum time interval that is required for 1000p to be stable enough so that it isn’t impacted by the next coat of 1000p. I’ve been waiting 24 hours between layers but that’s only a guess. THAT IS FINE. IF YOU ARE IN COLD CLIMATE THEN I WOULD RECOMMEND WAITING 48 TO 72 HOURS.

I pose the same question for 2685. #2685 IS NOT THAT REACTIVE, SO 24 HOURS IS FINE.

Sometimes I apply by hand and sometimes I use an orbital polisher with a finishing pad. Does this make a difference? ORBITAL POLISHER WILL GIVE YOU BETTER RESULTS.

My conclusion: I did everything just about right. Higher temperatures speed the curing of 1000p and 2685 is less critical so that 24 hrs is probably fine regardless of temperature. Most importantly, Finish Kare does acknowledge the ability to layer both products.