Testing Out Chemical Guys Black Wax - 1964 BLACK Catalina

ChrisJ said:
Is this new CG wax about the same consistency as Lava?
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No. Lava is a soft paste wax, the consistency of Black Wax is more like pudding, it's very soft and creamy.

In the old days I think they used a term called, pre-softened to describe a wax like this.


I'm just now finishing the SF 4000 over all the horizontal surfaces. I also just applied some of the Black Wax to a section of the driver's side hood to check and see how it's going to look.


Stay tuned...


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
No. Lava is a soft paste wax, the consistency of Black Wax is more like pudding, it's very soft and creamy.

In the old days I think they used a term called, pre-softened to describe a wax like this.


I'm just now finishing the SF 4000 over all the horizontal surfaces. I also just applied some of the Black Wax to a section of the driver's side hood to check and see how it's going to look.


Stay tuned...


:)
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Ah ok. I have lava and wasnt sure how close they were
 
Pretty impressive I must say Mike...
By the video it seems to me hazing wasn't a big of issue, isn't it ?
Also the orange pad seems to have done a noticeable better job removing defects on that paint...
 
ChrisJ said:
Ah ok. I have lava and wasn't sure how close they were
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Just wiped off the test section, the dried wax wiped off easy and left a deep, dark wet shine with a very slick feeling surface. My microfiber towel easily glides over the waxed section dramatically better than just the polished section.

For the test section I applied the wax by hand, after I hit the [submit reply] button I'm going to go machine apply the Black Wax using a 5.5" Jeweling Pad on a PC.

Then i have to buff out the sides, as I'm typing this all I have finished for the SF 4000 portion are the horizontal panels.

The car is so big that the only way I can reach the middle of all the horizontal panels is to lean on the sides of the car so I have to finish all the horizontal panels before I do the finish polishing step to the vertical panels or I would re-instill scratches into the vertical panels.

Make sense?



DaC said:
Pretty impressive I must say Mike...
By the video it seems to me hazing wasn't a big of issue, isn't it ?
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Back paint shows everything and paint hardness/softness is always a huge when it comes to DA Haze from any DA Polisher.

After I buffed with the Orange pad I chemically stripped the paint and there was some DA Haze but my guess most of this is coming from the aggressiveness of the foam cutting pad but the compound could be leaving some too.

The point is "kind of" mute because in most cases I would never stop after using an aggressive compound and an aggressive cutting pad no matter what the tool, no matter what the brand. This is especially true for special interest vehicles like I work on most of the time.

Make sense?

I think this compound finishes down well enough with a polishing pad that for some paint systems you could stop and go to wax.

Keep in mind some people are not looking for perfection, just good before they go to wax, everyone has to decide what their own goal is and their own expectation for a "quality" finish.


DaC said:
Also the orange pad seems to have done a noticeable better job removing defects on that paint...
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Keep in mind on the trunk lid I compounded once to the taped-off section with the Cyan cutting pad and then again with the Orange Hybrid Pad, so it was hit twice with the compound before polishing.

I also worked the section I only buffed once on the trunk lid a little extra to get it as nice as the back part of the trunk lid.

I did not buff the hood as much and while it's 99% defect free, it does have some deeper RIDS that at this point I'm going to let go. This is a driver and most people won't be able to maintain a 100% flawless finish on black paint.


Good questions...


Now back to waxing and polishing... want to go home sometime tonight...



:)
 
Okay, I have the CG Black Wax machine applied to the horizontal surfaces...


FG400_Test-Spot_026.jpg


FG400_Test-Spot_027.jpg


FG400_Test-Spot_028.jpg




Now I have to get going on the vertical panels... ugh... should have brought down a black Prius to test the new Black Wax on...

FG400_Test-Spot_029.jpg




:D
 
So is this wax more for darker colors? Any fillers?

Looks awesome so far
 
Charleston said:
So is this wax more for darker colors?
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That's what the company states, you can read more here,

Chemical Guys BLACK Wax



Charleston said:
Any fillers?
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That's a good question and a common topic and here's the answer...

ANY wax, synthetic paint sealant or coating that works, and I define the word "works" to mean the product leaves itself behind on the surface, (that's the idea right? apply a layer of protection?), then by definition the product is filling because it's coating over the surface and leaving itself behind.

Some product undoubtedly leave more of themselves behind than others. I have an article on this somewhere...


Just took a video of the entire car with wax on it and I wiped off just the spear on the hood, it's uploading now and while it's uploading I'm going to go wipe the rest of the wax off.


:D
 
Okay, here we go...

Here's a short video showing the entire car machine waxed with Chemical Guys BLACK Wax...



Chemical Guys BLACK Wax on a Black 1964 Pontiac Catalina​

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=el_-O4b8d2o&hd=1]Chemical Guys BLACK Wax on a Black 1964 Pontiac Catalina - YouTube[/video]





:)
 
smack said:
Now that's black. I love it.

Thanks for the continuous updates Mike.
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Thank you and no problemo...

Texted a picture to the owner and he said...

Amazing!


Italian Guy said:
Car looks so deep and slick. Excellent job as always.
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Thank you, it's a 5-footer, you get up close and you can see a few RIDS...



jhodges said:
Beautiful job on a beautiful car.
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The owner told me he paid $400.00 for the car from a neighbor 31 years ago and then fixed it up a little...


I'll move her out into the sun today and take a walk-around video and then post it plus review of the new Chemical Guys BLACK Wax.

Couple of comments though...

The pudding consistency makes it very easy to spread out and work over the surface by hand or machine.

After it dries, wipe of is incredibly easy using premium quality microfiber towels.

Leave a very clear, dark slick surface and that's what you want from a finishing wax or show car wax.

I recommend it.


:)
 
Mike, do you think it would be possible going from the FG400 straight to a PO85RD on a Red pad on a rotary to jewel a black soft paint ?
 
DaC said:
Mike, do you think it would be possible going from the FG400 straight to a PO85RD on a Red pad on a rotary to jewel a black soft paint ?
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That's a great hypothetical question...


If the black paint is soft... why would you use such an aggressive compound?


My guess is it "might" but SF 4500 has very little cutting ability and the red foam pad offers nil cutting ability.

If it were me I would opt for using a less aggressive "polish" instead of a "compound" to remove the defects out of soft black paint and then go to the SF 4500 to jewel. Unless this was a show car I wouldn't even jewel, I would just do my last finish polishing step and move onto applying a wax, sealant or coating.

It already takes a long time to buff out a car and the added step of jewelling for the time it takes and the small amount of benefit it "might" add would only be reserved at least by me for something very cool. Definitely not a daily driver.

Make sense?



:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Make sense?

:)
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Totally... :dblthumb2:

But you know.... as geeks it's never too much to wonder and experiment.... :buffing:

I was actually asking, thinking about opti coating after it....
I work 99% of the time with very very soft clears.... and a lot of them are from black cars...
I've never actually worked on a hard paint...

So I was thinking.... "Maybe I can compound with FG400 to kill every defect, jewel with sf4500 and "lock" the paint gloss with opticoat which will give a much harder surface to the car and next time I buff it again, it will be only opticoat being sacrificed... "
Hopping this would help DD to actually look better longer and therefore bringing some great business to me in the long term....
 
DaC said:
Totally... :dblthumb2:

But you know.... as geeks it's never too much to wonder and experiment.... :buffing:

I was actually asking, thinking about opti coating after it....
I work 99% of the time with very very soft clears.... and a lot of them are from black cars...
I've never actually worked on a hard paint...

So I was thinking.... "Maybe I can compound with FG400 to kill every defect, jewel with sf4500 and "lock" the paint gloss with opticoat which will give a much harder surface to the car and next time I buff it again, it will be only opticoat being sacrificed... "
Hopping this would help DD to actually look better longer and therefore bringing some great business to me in the long term....
Click to expand...

Well after adding all that information now your questions and ideas make more sense. Soft paint is easy to correct but hard to maintain. I'm confident that the FG 400 would decimate anything you want/need to remove safely but only experimentation would tell you if SF 4500 will produce the finish you're looking for before Opti-coating.

I think for DD's that the SF 4000 might be a better choice. If you finish out with an Optimum polish then supposedly you would only have to wipe the paint with a water dampened microfiber towel and then you could apply the Opti-Coat II, thus no need for solvent or alcohol.


:)
 
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