the best / cost effective way to strip lsp

Do you want best or cost effective?

What are you doing after you remove it?

Many ways to skin an lsp!

A paint cleaner is very good but it all depends on what you plan to do next and why you are removing your lsp.

Dawn is the cheapest but won't remove some lsp with one go around.

Personally I love P21S TAW if you care a lot about the vehicle but then it certainly isn't the cheapest.

Some lsp like CQ or OC have to be polished off.
 
Detail_Dude
Re: the best / cost effective way to strip lsp
CG's Citrus Wash and Clear, at their recommended ratio.

Thanks man this is exactly what I was looking for before applying Blackfire WD
 
Bigbull2984 said:
Detail_Dude
Re: the best / cost effective way to strip lsp
CG's Citrus Wash and Clear, at their recommended ratio.

Thanks man this is exactly what I was looking for before applying Blackfire WD
Click to expand...

NP, man. Glad to help.
 
CEE DOG said:
Do you want best or cost effective?

What are you doing after you remove it?

Many ways to skin an lsp!

A paint cleaner is very good but it all depends on what you plan to do next and why you are removing your lsp.

Dawn is the cheapest but won't remove some lsp with one go around.

Personally I love P21S TAW if you care a lot about the vehicle but then it certainly isn't the cheapest.

Some lsp like CQ or OC have to be polished off.
Click to expand...

I'd like the best, and the cost effective as in two options, you're right made some great points, sigh theres always other/new products i need to acquire/try lol
 
Any good paint cleaner will remove any wax that's left and clean the finish making it ready for a fresh coat of sealant or wax...

Cleaner Wax
 
Well the Chemical guy soap wont get to me in time. Will the Blackfire TPnS remove the old wax? It will be topped with BFWD
 
use the blackfire TPNS and then use the bfwd, if your using the same line of product usually you do not need to strip any thing off and just use the BFWD as they just work together. so that would be the best option for you.
 
I would think the most cost effective way to strip an LSP is to wait until it breaks down. No? LOL
 
bump, how are you stripping your lsp and why?
 
Isn't using rubbing alcohol acceptable anymore? That's what I always used if I wasn't using a polish or cleaner, as when I would do different sections of products to test results.
 
i think i'm going to order the CG Bug and Tar Remover.

Removes dirt and grime, transit coatings, cleans whitewalls, removes grease, tar, and wax from painted surfaces

chris<pixelmonkey>:D
 
Check this out...


The benefits of a light paint cleaner, cleansing lotion or pre-wax cleaner


Here's an excerpt...


Mike Phillips said:

The benefits to using a paint cleaner
  • Removes sub-surface and pore-embedding stains that washing and claying will not remove and your eyes cannot detect.
  • Removes or improves fine swirls, scratches and other minor surface defects like water spots and etchings.
  • Maximizes surface smoothness which maximizes gloss and shine.
  • Restores optical clarity to clear coats so your eyes can see the true color underneath.
  • Restores the full richness of color to single stage paints.
  • Cleans the surface of any impurities that cold block or hinder the protection ingredients from bonding to or adhering to the paint.
  • Helps your choice of wax or paint sealant to last long and thus protect longer because it can bond better.
  • Helps your car’s paint to look better over the service life of the car.
  • Maintaining your car’s appearance protects your investment.
  • You're working forward in the process, not backwards.

​
Paint Cleaners are easy to use and provide some of the biggest gains in creating a show car shine from your time, money and efforts.
Click to expand...


FWIW


:)
 
I have Opti-Coated my own car as to eliminate the need for me to spend time waxing it. This allows me to drive a reasonably clean and shiny car most of the time, opening up more of my time to work on customer's cars.

The reason I would and do strip an LSP would be from a production standpoint, which would certainly not be the best way for many here on the forum. My methods have been evolved over a period of time doing what I call "production prep work". All the vehicles that come to my shop are in need of paint correction in one form or another so I'll offer my routine as the most efficient way of stripping an LSP and then offer a few added reasons why I do it the way I do it.

When a neglected car comes to me for a detail it gets the wash portion of the prep work done outside, before it is pulled into my shop for further prep work. Before the car enters my shop, the first thing I do is to pre soak the entire vehicle with a 3:1 dilution ratio solution of an alkaline based degreaser sprayed through a pump up sprayer. This pre soak accomplishes a few things.

1. It emulsifies and breaks down a lot of the surface contaminates, including the stuff behind trim pieces and molding.

2. It works to remove and or loosen up a fair amount of the imbedded contaminates that would otherwise end up in my clay bar.

3. It preps the wheel wells, rims and tires to be pressure washed clean without any needed agitation from brushes (my pressure washing technique provides the agitation) leaving only the most stubborn baked on brake dust.

4. It strips any standard LSP such as waxes or sealants, though most of the vehicles come in with none to begin with.

The vehicle gets a thorough pressure washing including rims, tires, wells and all the emulsified soil/dirt flushed out from behind any trim pieces, molding and gas filler area. If needed, at this point I'll work the wheels with an acid wheel cleaner and brush to remove the stubborn baked on brake dust, one wheel at a time. After the acid cleaning the wheels are rinsed then sprayed again with an alkaline degreaser to neutralize any leftover acid from the wheel cleaner. This is a quick spray and rinse procedure and it does work.

Now the vehicle gets a bucket wash and another thorough pressure rinse before being dried and pulled into the shop for a thorough inspection of the true defects and a clay decontamination.

If there are any red flags at this point that would warrant a call to the customer with concerns or price increases, it is done at this point along with photo documentation.

This is the most efficient prep procedure that I have come up with so far and any car that gets a full exterior detail with any level of paint correction gets this treatment.

Of course If I do a maintenance wash and wax, there is a totally different procedure.
 
tuscarora dave said:
I have Opti-Coated my own car as to eliminate the need for me to spend time waxing it. This allows me to drive a reasonably clean and shiny car most of the time, opening up more of my time to work on customer's cars.

The reason I would and do strip an LSP would be from a production standpoint, which would certainly not be the best way for many here on the forum. My methods have been evolved over a period of time doing what I call "production prep work". All the vehicles that come to my shop are in need of paint correction in one form or another so I'll offer my routine as the most efficient way of stripping an LSP and then offer a few added reasons why I do it the way I do it.

When a neglected car comes to me for a detail it gets the wash portion of the prep work done outside, before it is pulled into my shop for further prep work. Before the car enters my shop, the first thing I do is to pre soak the entire vehicle with a 3:1 dilution ratio solution of an alkaline based degreaser sprayed through a pump up sprayer. This pre soak accomplishes a few things.

1. It emulsifies and breaks down a lot of the surface contaminates, including the stuff behind trim pieces and molding.

2. It works to remove and or loosen up a fair amount of the imbedded contaminates that would otherwise end up in my clay bar.

3. It preps the wheel wells, rims and tires to be pressure washed clean without any needed agitation from brushes (my pressure washing technique provides the agitation) leaving only the most stubborn baked on brake dust.

4. It strips any standard LSP such as waxes or sealants, though most of the vehicles come in with none to begin with.

The vehicle gets a thorough pressure washing including rims, tires, wells and all the emulsified soil/dirt flushed out from behind any trim pieces, molding and gas filler area. If needed, at this point I'll work the wheels with an acid wheel cleaner and brush to remove the stubborn baked on brake dust, one wheel at a time. After the acid cleaning the wheels are rinsed then sprayed again with an alkaline degreaser to neutralize any leftover acid from the wheel cleaner. This is a quick spray and rinse procedure and it does work.

Now the vehicle gets a bucket wash and another thorough pressure rinse before being dried and pulled into the shop for a thorough inspection of the true defects and a clay decontamination.

If there are any red flags at this point that would warrant a call to the customer with concerns or price increases, it is done at this point along with photo documentation.

This is the most efficient prep procedure that I have come up with so far and any car that gets a full exterior detail with any level of paint correction gets this treatment.

Of course If I do a maintenance wash and wax, there is a totally different procedure.
Click to expand...

This is great--thanks for the tip. I'm an amateur, and I think this would help me out too.
 
Anyone use/try Griots spray paint prep? I just got some in the mail, says it removes all old LSP with some sprays and a rinse.....35oz for $15 so shouldnt be too bad, I'm eager to try it, just curious if anyone else has used it.
 
cleanmycorolla said:
Anyone use/try Griots spray paint prep? I just got some in the mail, says it removes all old LSP with some sprays and a rinse.....35oz for $15 so shouldnt be too bad, I'm eager to try it, just curious if anyone else has used it.
Click to expand...

I use it and am happy with it. Look at alko's review. I haven't had any trouble with it on the windows like he did, but I saw his review before using it and made sure to thoroughly rinse the glass.
 
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